ElVaradero - 3D Printed R/C Modular Car

by osoba95 in Workshop > 3D Printing

2351 Views, 15 Favorites, 0 Comments

ElVaradero - 3D Printed R/C Modular Car

IMG_9065.JPG
57306008_2303268833276322_4049623310760148992_o.jpg
64627701_2065745413536420_3179111887438610432_n.jpg
IMG_5474_1.JPG
IMG_9083.JPG
IMG_5425_1.JPG
56757414_1954553881322241_5734411721099968512_o.jpg

elVaradero is successor of hydrogen powered race car Varadero. Varadero is succesfull endurance race special equipped with hydrogen fuell cell and it competed in serials like H2AC and Hydrogen Cup. Endurance means that one round lasts for six hours of continous racing. Varadero is the blue one, because blue stands for hyfrogen. elVaradero is green because electric vehicles are green.

elVaradero is actually an acronym. El stands for electric, if it was powered by combustion engine it would be coVaradero. But coVaradero sounds dumb, so I made electric conversion. Var means variability. The thing is, I haven’t designed it as hydrogen only car. But as a versatile chassis which would be easy to modify or tune. Like platform for your projects, autonomous car for instance. You don’t have to design your own chassis and can concentrate only on your thing. Varadero is because I like to give my creations special names. Check out Kevin: https://www.instructables.com/id/KEVIN-the-Full-Au...
or Clifford (once it will be available as instructable).

If you're still wondering whether to build this car, believe me, it's easy build. Everything fits together intuitively and car is made from the least possible parts. Tons of photos is advantage too.

Files for printing can be found here:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1vKJXyQzX52...

Note: Some photos are from building hydrogen version(blue) and other from electric version(green). Don't get confused parts are same only color is different.

Supplies

You'll need common tools such as screwdriver, drill with 2.5, 3, 3.2, 4 mm bits, pliers, saw, set of files.

Now materials

M2 nuts and screws

M3 nuts, M3 screws countersunk and button head, lenghts from 5 to 40 mm many of them and some 60 mm long.

M4 nuts, M4 screws with countersunk head lenghts 35mm and 75 mm.

I would suggest buying set like this https://www.banggood.com/Suleve-M3SS1-M3-Stainles...

Car parts.

This project isn't completely printed, because some parts just won't be usable printed. As a car for parts I've used Himoto Nascada, btw Redcat Lightning is same and usable. You could buy parts one by one, or buy some used car. Like I did. Because too many parts are needed and I would forgot to buy some. Neverthelles I'm gonna list those parts. Differential with case and large gear and spur gear, dog bones, shock absorbers 40-60 mm long, hexes 12 mm, axles, bearings 10x15x4 4pcs, 5x10x4 5pcs, ball joints 4.8mm, front turnbuckles, front bumper, steering bearings. All those parts are from same car Himoto Nascada or Redcat.

Some parts are from other cars, listed below.

https://www.banggood.com/Suleve-M3SS1-M3-Stainles...

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/m3-x-45mm-steel-push-...

https://www.banggood.com/Suleve-M3SS1-M3-Stainles...

https://aerobertics.be/en_be/c-10124

Those pushrods and ball links can be bought off anywhere. Just remember has to be M3 pushrod long 40 - 50 mm and ball joint 4.8mm in diameter.

Standard servo, engine with esc size 540, 2ch receiver.

Printing Parts

IMG_5147.jpg
front_stiffener.png
rear_shock_tower.png
suspension_arm.png

All parts are designed to be easily printed. Some need to be printed in certain angle, like shown. STLs are in folders, named undrestandable. Tires and bushings are made from TPU.

If you're unfamiliar with TPU, wheels with tires can be bought. And there are also files for first version of front axle, which doesn't need bushnigs.

Though some parts cannot be printed. Chassis is best to be milled from PVC or Nylon. Engine mount can be printed, and I've tested it, but i don't know how much power and heat it can handle. It's best to be machined again on mill from steel or aluminium.

Front leading rods has to be made on lathe from steel, they cannot be printed. Technical drawings are included.

In body folder there's STL of ring 4.8mm, print at least 10 pcs. Rings will be then inserted in shock absorbers.

Front Axle

IMG_20190209_140453.jpg
IMG_20190422_181709.jpg
IMG_20191203_193353.jpg
IMG_20191203_193850.jpg
IMG_20191203_194618.jpg
IMG_20191203_195215.jpg
IMG_20191203_201333.jpg
IMG_20191203_203028.jpg
IMG_20191203_195856.jpg
IMG_20191203_201236.jpg
IMG_20191203_204525.jpg
IMG_20191204_160904.jpg
IMG_20191204_163844.jpg
IMG_20191204_164148.jpg
IMG_20191204_165658.jpg
IMG_20191204_173043.jpg
IMG_20191204_173307.jpg
IMG_20191204_173313.jpg
IMG_20191204_173639.jpg
IMG_20190208_174212.jpg
IMG_20191204_173857.jpg
IMG_20190208_173751.jpg
IMG_20190208_174850.jpg
IMG_20191204_174157.jpg
IMG_20191207_181620.jpg
IMG_20191207_182132.jpg
IMG_20191207_183537.jpg
IMG_20191207_183450.jpg

Lot of images should tell enough. In short.

Leading screws are attached to chassis using the longest M4 countesunk screws. Then there are those holes for screws which apparently do nothing. Not in this case. Those screws hold layers together and make front axle much sturdier. If you printed first version of front axle just skip steps of mounting bushings. For V2 bushings are held by M2 screws.

If you don't have steering bearings, it can work without them but tighten screws just so turnbuckles can move freely.

Servo saver isn't necessary, but greatly improves lifespan of servo gears.

Before mounting axle to chassis, connect it to battery and check whether servo can move freely and is centered.

Gearbox

IMG_20190209_205922.jpg
IMG_20190214_212438.jpg
IMG_20190214_212745.jpg
IMG_20190211_140445.jpg
IMG_20190211_140432.jpg
IMG_20190211_140634.jpg
IMG_20191207_184518.jpg
IMG_20191207_211839.jpg
IMG_20191207_212336.jpg
IMG_20191207_212528.jpg

This is rather easy step. Just mount everything together with M3 screws.

As said. Differential comes from Himoto Nascada or similar car under different brand.

Bearing holder secures bearing and is mounted with M3 screws, they mustn't stick out. Bearing holder is mounted from both sides.

Don't attach motor and gearbox cover yet.

Rear Axle

IMG_20190209_194058.jpg
IMG_20191210_135153.jpg
IMG_20191210_135429.jpg
IMG_20191210_135431.jpg
IMG_20190209_194826.jpg
IMG_20191208_152736.jpg
IMG_20191208_161417.jpg
IMG_20191208_161530.jpg
IMG_20191208_165405.jpg
IMG_20191208_170057.jpg
IMG_20190209_194906.jpg
IMG_20191208_171449.jpg
IMG_20191208_172909.jpg
IMG_20190209_195847.jpg
IMG_20190209_195931.jpg
IMG_20191208_182720.jpg

It's no secret that design is inspired from Porsche 911 964.

Time has come to use those chinese FS Racing axles. You could also buy ordinary screws and adjust them on lathe.

Paperclips are great source of wire. I bent them so they are used as a rubber band stopper. That rubber band will hold accumulators in place.

Mounting axle to chassis is last step and don't forget to insert dog bones. Otherwise they couldn't be fitted.

Axles are completely symetrical so build the other half just like the left side.

Stiffeners

IMG_20191208_205319.jpg
IMG_20191208_205737.jpg
IMG_20191208_210439.jpg
IMG_20191208_211120.jpg
IMG_20191208_212046.jpg
IMG_20191210_132403.jpg
IMG_20191210_133140.jpg
IMG_20191210_145301.jpg
IMG_20191210_150533.jpg
IMG_20191210_152339.jpg
IMG_20191210_152709.jpg

The car is almost complete. Only few last parts.

Stiffeners greatly improves handling in high speeds and are also accumulator holders.

Installation is as simple as it looks. Press nuts into hexagons and screw it to the chassis.

Engine can be mounted after rear and middle stiffeners are in place.

Rubber bands used to hold accumulators are just ordinary bands kids use to wear on wrists. Genious idea to hold accumulators like this.

Shock tower needs to be in exact height so front stiffener will fit.

Finished Car

IMG_20191210_172439.jpg
IMG_9082.JPG
IMG_9083.JPG

Congratulations. Your elVaradero is now alive and kicking. Or perhaps with electronics it would be, but that's on you. I've equipped it with racestar 80 amp motor size 3660 from buggy and two 2s 5000mAh lipos connected in series. Too much boost. 50 amp would be cheaper and better.

Enjoy your car.

You can also make this car better. Ii still isn't perfect. For instance 4 wheels driven would be better, lower engine mount or making this car smart with rapsberry Pi and ROS. I am working on it, but too many other stuff don't let me work on it, so everything takes a while.