Easiest Crochet Voodoo Doll; Completely Customizable and Very Simple

by BettyBonkersBrand in Craft > Knitting & Crochet

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Easiest Crochet Voodoo Doll; Completely Customizable and Very Simple

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Rather than worked in the round, this doll is worked as two separate flat pieces and sewn together. A simple project, with lots of room to let your creativity flow. Great for beginners and experts alike. These whip up quite quickly, and can easily be customized or personalized to make any kind of doll.
*Uses US Crochet terms.
*This pattern uses half-double crochet, but you can use single crochet if you prefer. The half-doubles add a bit of texture. The pattern will work with either stitch.

Supplies

*A ball of yarn, in your choice of color(s)
*Appropriate sized crochet hook
(I used CraftSmart yarn, with a 5.25mm or I/9 hook)
*Stuffing
*Buttons, thread, extra yarn, and whatever else you may need to customize your doll

Starting Up

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Like any crochet project, we begin by creating chains. This is a flat piece, so you won't need a magic loop or chain circle.
*Simply chain 7, plus 1 to start your doll. Make one half-double (or single crochet if you prefer) in each chain across. You now have seven half-doubles.
*Chain one, turn and crochet 1 half-double in each stitch. Do not work into the turning chain. Repeat this row six (6) times.
You have completed the doll's head.

Making the Arms

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The head is complete! Now, we'll be making the arms.
*Instead of making a turning chain, we will use this spot to start an arm. Chain 10. Work one half-double in the next nine chains, then continue working across the head. You should have 9 stitches for the arm, plus 7 across. Do not turn you work.
*Slip stitch into the last stitch you worked in, and chain 10. Turn, work the nine stitches for this arm. Then, work the 7 for the body and the nine for the opposite arm.
Tip: When working the arms, make sure not too twist them too much. It will work out well, even if it's a little wonky at first.

Finishing the Arms, and Starting the Torso

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Work the arms until both are three rows thick. The first arm you make will reach three rows first; just stop working that arm when it's thick enough. Once the opposite arm is also three rows, only work the body (it is the part which is seven stitches long).
*Work the main part, the body, until it is 8 rows long.

Making the Legs

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Instead of working 7 stitches, as you've done for the body, work into the first three stitches only.
*Chain one, turn, and half-double across. Repeat until your first leg is 12 rows long. Fasten off.
*Make a second leg by joining onto the body (right at the end of the row where you started your first leg). Chain one, work into three stitches. Chain one, turn and repeat until your second leg is also twelve rows long. Fasten off.
You should have two legs, equal in length, with one stitch space between them.

Options...

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From here on, you can proceed differently. To have a "normal" doll, with no way to reopen the doll later, simply repeat the last 4 steps. You'll have two identical pieces to sew together. Skip to step 8 to see how to attach the two pieces, if you wish to make your doll this way.
Or, you can make a functional voodoo doll with an open-able back. Follow the next few steps to see how.

Making the Second Piece

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Follow the first three steps, to create a head and two arms. Instead of making the torso as one cohesive piece, we'll make the back similarily to the legs.
*After the arms are complete, work one row for the torso (seven stitches). Turn, chain one and work into the first four stitches with half-doubles. Turn, chain one, work into the four stitches... Repeat this until your first back panel is 6 rows long. Fasten off.
*Fasten onto the spot just under the arms, on the same row where you started the first panel. Work into the first three stitches, just as you did previously. Repeat until the second panel is also 6 rows. Do not fasten off yet.
*Turn, chain one and work into the first three stitches. Then, continue into the next four stitches (the other back panel).
------> *Note: If your panels are not aligned (preventing you from working straight across), you must fasten on at a different point. The two panels should basically be worked in opposite directions. This is weird to explain, but will make sense when you have the work infront of you.

Second Piece, Part 2

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Now that the two panels are attached, you can work the legs. Make them the same way you did for the first doll piece: three stitches wide, 12 rows long. Fasten off. Join on and make the second leg. Huzzah; you now have the two pieces you need to complete your doll!

Sew 'Em Up!

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There are a few ways to attach the two doll pieces together. You can attach them with a single crochet border. To do this, fasten onto your work (through both pieces) and chain one. Work one single crochet into the gaps around the doll. I like to work three single crochet into all of the corners of the doll, which prevents bending. But, it's totally optional to do that.
You can also just sew the two pieces together. It's simple enough to do by hand, and you can use yarn (rather than thread). Of course, thread or a sewing machine are both viable options. Once sewn, you can flip the work inside out (to hide the stitching), or keep it visible (which is what I did).
Really, you can do whatever you like. Experiment with textures and colors; use contrasting colors to make your stitching pop!
Don't forget to stuff your doll! It's best to stuff as you sew, even if your doll has the open back.

Customize & Decorate

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This is where the real fun happens! Keep it simple, with just some eyes and a little smirk. Or add hair, clothes, fingernails... whatever you like. I like mismatching the eyes, it gives the doll a classic, voodoo look.
When you sew up the back (if you made your doll this way), you can use any color yarn. Contrasting colors look as good as matching ones.
Because this project is pretty basic, it's easy to change the size of the doll. Just add more chains and rows to make it bigger. Want thinner arms? Just take out a row. Longer legs? Don't stop at 12, keep going.

Final Notes and Tips

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To fill my dolls, I use the insides from cheap pillows. Poly-fil is nice, but pillows can be much cheaper (I usually grab a $3-5 pillow from Family Dollar or Wal-Mart).
Mismatching eyes is a great way to use up random buttons. Similarly, you can use scrap yarn for this project.
To make the doll in someone's likeness, just use the appropriate skin, hair and eye colors. Other distinguishing characteristics (like birthmarks or tattoos) can really solidify the look. Don't stop at friends and family members; you can even make fictional characters into dolls.
After fastening off, one would normally tie in their ends. If you use the crochet edging, you can actually work them into your stitching to save time.

And the most important thing is to have fun and be creative!!