EASIER TORNADO SHELTER ENTRY

I had this storm shelter built about 37 years ago. It is all poured concrete with rebar reinforcement. The interior measures 8 foot wide x 12 foot long x 6 ft 4 inches tall with a concrete stair entry.

I asked my wife where she wanted it built, meaning front or back yard.

She answered, "I want the entry stairs under the front porch.", so that's where it went.

We are both senior citizens now and she cannot raise the heavy wooden door covered with a sheet of galvanized steel. I can raise it easily, but it's impossible for her or the grand kids. Besides, I am not always here. Something had to be done, so here is my solution. She can easily raise the door now and I can raise it with one finger.

I drew out a rough draft and went hunting for parts. I found nearly everything I needed except for a weight at Lowes.

Material List ( From Lowes = * )

* 30 ft 3/32" stranded cable

* 2 X 1½" Single Swivel Eye Pulleys

* 2 X 3/32" Ferrule & Stop Kits

* 2 X #4 x 2-3/16" Screw Eyes

* 1 X 4" x 10 ft PVC sewer pipe & cap

1 X 30 pound lead weight

Tools Needed:

Wire cutters to cut cable

Hammer & Set Punch to set ferrules

Vise Grips to sqeeze ferrules

Cordless Drill

.209 drill bit for eye screws into wood

Post Hole Diggers

The lead ingot weighs 30 lbs and is approximately 4" w X 13" long X 2" thick. It and several others were originally used in a race car to add weight to rear wheels. It was made by melting wheel weights cast in a Chevy valve cover.

I had thought that I would fasten the cable to the top of the door, but after thinking about it overnight, I suspected that would warp the door. I tried lifting the door from the top corner and it did as I suspected......it raised up the corner but not the whole door. I realized the cable must be raised from the center of the door.

To fasten the cable to the door, I welded a chain link to a big washer and put it on the existing eye bolt the locking chain is on, but I could have used another eye bolt instead.

I drilled a pilot hole smaller than the screw eye threads & screwed the 2 lad screws into the wood.

The 1st photo is putlley above the cellar door & the 2nd is above the 4" pipe

To hide the weight behind the hedge, I dug a 32" deep hole and put a 4" X 7 ft piece of sewer pipe for the weight to be hidden and away from little kids. When the door opens, the weight is lowered below ground level in the pipe. I drilled a 1/2" hole in the cap to keep things from falling in the top of the pipe.,

My wife can easily rise the door and I can raise it with my little pinky finger. An added bonus is that when I would go into the cellar and hold up the door on my shoulder, it was almost impossible for my to step down to the next step without my leg giving 'way, causing me to fall. Now I must pull down on the chain inside to close the door. AMAZING.......I SHOULD HAVE DONE THIS 35 YEARS AGO.

This all cement cellar has never leaked a drop of water in 37 years. It was a little damp before I put in the exhaust fan. See 'Ible here: https://www.instructables.com/id/KEEPING-THE-TORNADO-SHELTER-DRY/

Thanks for reading, Any comments welcome. Wish me a Happy Birthday. On May 9, 2016, I'll be 80.

At the request of madmedic22, I took some more detailed photos of the hardware. I hope these help.

#1 The cable attached to the door

#2 Pulley above door

#3 Pulley above weight

#4 The 4 inch PVC pipe for the weight, buried 32 inches into ground

#5 This shows the cap on the cable and the weight on end of cable

#6 I wrapped a short piece of cable thru the hole in lead weight and a chain link to attach it the end of cable so it could be easily removed if necessary

#7 This is the lead weight with each end shortened (cut off before I decided to put it inside a pipe)

#8 This is finished view with weight inside the pipe