Duff Beer Carrier

by MattInDetroit in Workshop > 3D Printing

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Duff Beer Carrier

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"Can't Get Enough of That Wonderful Duff"

I enjoy the Simpsons, and I enjoy a fine beverage. Now I can enjoy both while heading out.

I used TinkerCAD to design a 3D printable 4-pack and 6-pack for cans and/or bottles. My 3D printer is a single extruder (prints only a single color at a time). So I designed it so the Duff logo could be printed in multiple colors using a filament change technique. I created a 4-pack version and a more common 6-pack version. But I also designed a variation that prints the sides seperately, to be later connected with dovetail joinery; and a more rigid version that requires the logo to be glued on after printing.

The 4-pack is suitable for printers with a build plate of 150mm x 150mm. The 6-pack is suitable for printers with a build plate of 200mm x 200mm.

Skip to step 7 if you're just interested in slicing and printing, rather than the overall design process.

Supplies

  • TinkerCAD
  • SVG Editor (Inkscape)
  • Slicer (Cura)
  • 3D Printer
  • Red, Black, and white filament
  • Metal file or other sanding tool
  • Glue (E6000)

Determine Measurements/sizes

My very first revision was based off the size of a 12oz bottle. I used a digital caliper to measure the size of the glass bottle, and designed the carrier around that. After printing I realized I should have built-in some extra tolerance/spacing to also fit cans.

Measure the diameter of the bottles and/or cans you wish to accommodate. In North America the diameter of a glass bottle is 62mm, and 66mm is the diameter of an aluminum can. I cheated and used an existing 4-pack and 6-pack cardboard carrier to inspire appropriate heights (to accommodate grasping and removing cans/bottles).

Create the Structure in TinkerCAD

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A four/six pack carrier is basically just a base, four side panels, some dividers, and a handle.

I created all my panels as 2mm thick rectangles.

Four pack:

  • Front/Back: 140mm long x 110mm tall x 2mm thick.
  • Left/Right: 140mm long x 110mm tall x 2mm thick.
  • Base: 140mm long x 140mm wide x 2mm thick.
  • Divider:
    • If using the dovetails
      • 134mm long x 90mm tall x 2mm thick; centered between the left and right side panels. Leaving a 1mm space in between.
    • If merging all the sides
      • 140mm long x 90mm tall x 2mm thick; centered between the left and right side panels.
  • Handle:
    • If using the dovetails
      • 134mm long x 200mm tall x 2mm thick; centered between the front and back panels, and spaced about 3mm from the left and right side panels (leaving a 1mm space in between).
    • If merging all the sides
      • 140mm long x 200mm tall x 2mm thick; centered between the left and right side panels
    • Create a hollow handle opening about 25mm tall x 82.5mm long, distanced about 20mm from the top edge.
    • (Optionally) Round the top, left/right corners.
      • I started with a solid square, and a hollow circle. And applied smaller hollow squares, until left with solid arch. I grouped those shapes, and than made it hollow. This can be used to cut a rounded arch of off the handles rectangular corners.

Six pack:

  • Front/Back: 209mm long x 110mm tall x 2mm thick.
  • Left/Right: 140mm long x 110mm tall x 2mm thick. Base: 209mm long x 140mm wide x 2mm thick.
  • Two Dividers:
    • If using the dovetails
      • 134mm long x 90mm tall x 2mm thick; spaced about 66.5mm from the left and right side panels.
    • If merging all the sides
      • 140mm long x 90mm tall x 2mm thick; centered between the left and right side panels
  • Handle:
    • If using the dovetails
      • 203mm long x 220mm tall x 2mm thick; centered between the front and back panels, and spaced about 3mm from the left and right side panels (leaving a 1mm space in between).
    • If merging all the sides
      • 209mm long x 220mm tall x 2mm thick; centered between the left and right side panels
    • Create a hollow handle opening about 25mm tall x 97.5mm long, distanced about 20mm from the top edge.
    • (Optionally) Round the top, left/right corners

Create the Logo

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I was able to find the logo in SVG (scalable vector graphics) format.

Using either a text editor (like Notepad++) or an application like InkSpace, create copies of the logo containing only a single color each. The Duff logo is black, white, and red. You should wind up with three seperate SVG files (two if you skip the red, and assume that's the background color of the carrier).

Import the SVG files into TinkerCAD.

In order to accommodate filament color changes during printing, adjust each objects height. If using red, set the height at 0.5mm. Set the white box as 1mm (if using the red box, move it above to a height of 0.5mm). Set the black box/text as 2mm (if using the red box, move it above to a height of 0.5mm).

I'm over 21 so I added "BEER" in black to the bottom of my logo, and matched the height at 2mm.

Merge the objects into a single group.

If your intention is to glue the logo on after printing the carrier, you can export it now as an STL.

(Optional) Apply the Logo to the Sides of the Carrier in TinkerCAD

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If your intention is to print each side panel individually and connect them after printing, you can apply the logo to print with the sides; performing filament color changes as appropriate. If you are printing the carrier with all the side pre-attached, you'll need to print the logo separately and glue on after printing (skip this section).

Rotate the logo so it is upright. Make three copies of the logo, so you'll have four total. Rotate so each one is facing the appropriate directions of each side of the carrier. Move the logos into place so they are centered on each side panel. You want them to extend so the logo is visible, but close enough so there is no gap during printing.

(Optional) Create Dovetails

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If your intention is to print each side panel individually and connect them after printing, you need to create a strong, reliable method for connecting them.

This was my first time creating dovetails in a digital model; but I'd say it was a success.

In TinkerCAD you'll want to find the trapezoid object. It is not under "Basic Shapes"; but rather buried under "Shape Generators" (it was page 10 last time I looked).

Change the thickness to match that of the panels at 2mm. Also set the height to match at 2mm. I chose 20mm for the width.

You will be creating a hollow object version, and a solid object version through out the connecting edges. The result when printed, will allow you to reconnect each piece.

On the side panels, reduce the object by 2mm on each side the will have dovetail pins. Rotate the dovetail pin so the shorter side is facing the panel. Copy and paste the dovetails, evenly spaced along the edges of the panel.

On the alternate side panel (and base), you want dovetail tails. Do not adjust the side panel object sizes. The tails are the opposite of pins, as they will be hollow. The easiest way to line them up, copy the pins (to the clipboard). Hide the pins and corresponding panels (I suggest you group them before hiding them). Paste them, and line them up in the same positions they were copied from. Change them from "solid" to "hollow". They are now dovetail tails.

Group the objects appropriately. Hollow sockets, and solid pins should be grouped with their respective sides. The logos should also be grouped with their respective sides,

Export the Objects to STL Format

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If opting for a single combined carrier export the logo and the carrier as separate files.

Otherwise export the center and the four sides as a total of five separate files. (Unless of course the dovetail spacing is consistent, than you would only need three pieces: center, front/back, left/right).

Slicing the STL to G-Code for Printing

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Using the slicer of your choice (I'm using Cura), prepare the STL objects for conversion.

For the objects requiring filament color changes, I suggest utilizing an add-on/plug-in for inserting the filament change into the Gcode. For Cura I use the "Filament Change" Post Processing script. By performing an intial slice and preview... you'll be able to observe where each printed layer is complete and determine the layer number necessary for color changes. Make a note of those layer numbers. In the filament change plugin add the layer numbers you noted. Now you can reslice the object and the plugin will insert the necessary gcode for the printing pause and filament changes.

My tests were printed at 0.2mm layer height (initial layer height of 0.3mm). Skirt. No Supports. 20% infill (only applies to the logo/text, as the walls are only 2mm thick).

For the STLs designed/provided here are the necessary layer numbers for filament changes:

Separate Logo

  • Start with red
  • At layer 3 change to white
  • At layer 5 change to black

Print as five separate pieces... bottom w/ handle, front, back, left and right.

  • Bottom w/ handle
    • Print as black or red. (black provides a nice contrast, and make some of the dovetail joinery stand out). I used PLA+ for this part, for added strength.
  • Left, right, front and back
    • Start with red
    • At layer 11 change to white
    • At layer 14 change to black

Print the Objects

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Print the Gcode on your 3D printer and perform filament changes when needed.

At 0.2mm resolution it took me about 22 hours to print all the pieces of the 4 pack. Assembled size is 150mm x 150mm x 200mm

Note: Left and Right are the same for 4 pack and 6 pack (if using the same version number). Same with logo, it can be used on all four sides of the merged piece.

Glue Together As Needed

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If logos were printed separately, use E6000 glue to apply the logos to the outside of the carrier.

If printed as a center and four sides, you'll want to perform a test fit (try connecting the pieces together) and sand the dovetail pins as necessary. I used a flat metal file. When the pieces fit together satisfactory, disconnect them, and reconnect with E6000 glue. You can optionally use a 3D pen instead (or in addition) to the E6000 glue.

Assembly order: Install left to base, next right to base. Than install front and back to base and to sides.

"Oh yeah!"