Dropper Seatpost Wireless Conversion - OneUp Electric Conversion

This project is the result of many prototypes and design iterations. We originally developed this wireless dropper post conversion for the OneUp Dropper with plans to turn it into a commercial product. But after considering the challenges of manufacturing — and realizing I no longer have the time to keep refining it — I’ve decided to open source the design so others can build, adapt, and improve it.

The original version of this project featured custom RF communication, PCBs, a custom battery management system, accelerometers for motion-based wake-up, motor drivers, and custom firmware to tie it all together. While that setup worked well, it was complex and not practical for most DIY builders. I've since redesigned the system to be much simpler and more accessible for home fabrication — but we still plan to release the full, advanced version in the future.

The system replaces the mechanical actuator with a compact electronic mechanism, eliminating the need for cables. It simplifies installation, makes removal easier, and even allows the post to be inserted deeper into the frame than the original setup.

It’s built around one of the most reliable seatposts in the industry, and designed to be simple, effective, and easy to build. All files and instructions are included — enjoy

1. Solder
2. Soldering iron
3. 3D printer
4. hot glue gun
5. RF switch (this one has bad reviews and I can attest to this... I will look for a new one soon) - https://www.amazon.ca/Control-Including-Receiver-Transmitter-Contactless/dp/B0BHXCC3WT/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.hfjDn-GuCEsRUb1QeqszRQY6RyGKjaqBChZojGRd7ME0nuUj6oy5t-fyEddm2kqUA2T4FbIrBsLtFOv5oaDWZqlFfQ8qxTyUmv9x_vmQJ4Ep7_FyXi91VK9Ktwj6JuRZafyRZHkS7l6quFE1DO9MiOPNpuE8xTUXy44oca2EyPFgT0_xpPQwNXjN3vD6HgXpq8JxKAZiQj1ESeEEDthlprUzx74efzjkMYUBqUrazlj28OXo4M28ZxXN_kEEh-cJlDtHWF-w5QMDtTWgy02K82dWJ4niYbXtA_s6idq9Wtk.4Lz5iXRGBS7_mavlA-oOFnC-W64GbiVogZyYJmxjYUc&dib_tag=se&keywords=rf+remote+control+switch+kit%2C+including+dc6v&qid=1756701054&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

UPDATE: I have been using this new RF switch linked here. Seems to work better but it needs to be wire up differently. the output on this RF switch is not + and -, its just a switch so when you wire it run either the positive on negative through this the yellow and blue wires on the switch and the other lead straight to the motor. link - https://www.amazon.ca/3-7-12V-Wireless-Control-Transmitter-Controller/dp/B08F7FFQ14/ref=sr_1_39?crid=3GZKZK1094TNQ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ZpcdM0gP_9qqQNKt2P-PBlspbT6oa9RTItnImu9TYSmuSccO_2ewWiIqWhVhf3zyc0yGpzxqqflDzaElRqM1wuUq5kKnVNwMhU1EoDVXKJn4ZB_kbDBMg-w7aBbF_bbPOcZ4n1GWiSJyn7zN-HOwEGbZzwQGzePZam7FVNJRc-pkDoyoDir3A0sMrRIDZNcvjRWdr2WJtb4ZO9E8a14T2LPXxT_xV0_4cVHZl2fmTBX0anuWm7Nr7h6g1PkanJgGWsxzF2k9xCvngnZRcj7AYvF6OnMH6AcZbz151mjLZac.wSIIuEGLpd6N0vVgkAvRM7M0cbgE5HJ6SZX0dtVI0-Y&dib_tag=se&keywords=rf+switch&qid=1759717889&sprefix=rf+switc%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-39

1. 2 x batteries - https://www.amazon.ca/FITHOOD-Battery-Connector-Household-
2. Appliances/dp/B0B5ZRWXL4/ref=sr_1_2?crid=30SP7IOMZX14V&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.WphBshmsuHjr5tTv4k9daQ.okcyCHd_o7cjrMUOessQIay5wwCuQySUwuE52iIZBY0&dib_tag=se&keywords=fithood+602040&qid=1756702447&sprefix=fithood+602040%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-2
3. motor - 3V 150 RPM (make sure to get the 3V motor with the 150 RPM. it is more powerful and that power is needed. the 150 RPM is critical too, any slower it will have too much torque and strip the gears, any faster and it won't have the torque) - https://www.amazon.ca/Yosoo-Torque-150RPM-Gearbox-Replacement/dp/B06XFNR76K/ref=sr_1_1?crid=20SEX6TYWOK81&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.mZj5IpxaRYVjs-YnqJTo5TeKBkAKvyxjO5bX78JABTs.S8krC3-v8NAl2HWW4QzoCQFz8fVIXVmPz2nqknSPVuQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=yosoo%2Bmini%2Bhigh%2B3v%2B150%2Brpm&qid=1756702656&sprefix=yosoo%2Bmini%2Bhigh%2B3v%2B150%2Brpm%2Caps%2C140&sr=8-1&th=1
4. 2 x coin batteries - CR2016
5. 2 x battery contacts - https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/keystone-electronics/2993/2745766
6. battery connectors - MR30 male and female - https://www.amazon.ca/Female-Connector-Plated-Sheath-Battery/dp/B07VMK96QH/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1P106FM53P4AR&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.QflSq3rquCpKAiD5kuC-QrTOG9mvcknQvkHR5ODsD8ZMeMzICNvZ8iI8Du_p8SaWAgnWXZvX7kxX3yHibLPsfWPRB8jU_zO8ubZ5c4zMnvLP2GsmMEsbW8CnrYq45MaU-FzVZnSM7amOJ8pK4ByllC4iinVoWGN5yjDOvSBoqB2obPgkkE62sOgNyvHgDjMe4lpr-bL0QRtFeG2lVVGBKK2UyONe4XW0SE7nnHrpnxQv7vXkn79ENZhs5ClHO9Xuj2RX8yKnOSWX1AhoJ9GosJ_nqrav1ckvg69gBGGYAMw.Fy4w0c0J1b3vkQXUDqCMvLwSscemhbLGWizIjHfOSOc&dib_tag=se&keywords=mr30+connector&qid=1756703026&sprefix=MR30+%2Caps%2C187&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
7. 2S battery charger - I have used this one but the current is probably a little high... look for a 2S charger under 1A - https://www.amazon.ca/URGENEX-Replacement-Connector-Compatible-Quadcopter/dp/B09PBP2HBN/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?crid=3VIH905VN188Q&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.n13EdXElbvnzgAdSIHyv6Khef5xtgIDxHemdHjnIPazJzF8IMU9Bqfjnpi96YU7vzNYpLhYzg5a9DJdcbt_VffrGssuchcz_SM0MKG3S2V8h2gBzezACWSIW_nVeOX_i1Pbtb0ITIq72xvK3s3vygQxYDF3xjfgiHyKnpOnnsFIxpejHOvAWSWnz6Bcxxv95C5tPJtXW6VhBG8Q0hpNNiZr2tapggGjih_YjNj5inkM3CCTGKnFy4aO0EbDRHAamn8QfOxO18rwqwQbwqXimmFZjRalmLRz6MrSw40HeThk.E0lPn63r1aToDA4WPRHbp-oA7fk0GKvXMwXljC7xPKY&dib_tag=se&keywords=lipo+2s+battery+charger&qid=1756703598&sprefix=lipo+2s+battery+charger%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-4-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
8. m2 self tapping screws - 5mm - https://www.amazon.ca/HanTof-Self-Tapping-Phillips-Computer-Electronic/dp/B07ZH9GJWP/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1X010LCKFKF4F&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.0A5C1oX2pvD2_9lmkxFWqsC9s1TslUlQ0-tsqlCyAY9dtgoxJOidvVNPdEdmH_zqN1x_ce1T4n_PD6zixl_rJHMMWkbjcFtwtwOXZTAd6pDaUhW5hyvUkNteg6otDHhoRy64mWCwbF6C2rk2aa-b-1O3T6fo_MwV84UcdBxW_0e_Qw1mNSwMmwk8KZR4gS_cUDwOIpbbAFNXyzqL7Rd-QHQDCPbcejpDPhDG6-2OS6eH_RmTHcWHDexXOgaBwJLlq9Y7dOMD7iyLTrBkBuSMA_bmGGlLpRtLZ71mFHnCM-Y.9TTJ7uCBk_qvgPHj7ZjaNspnxjfr_L3V-J2F952ZyVY&dib_tag=se&keywords=m2+screws&qid=1757789008&sprefix=m2+screws%2Caps%2C161&sr=8-8
9. m1.6 x 3mm screw - https://www.amazon.ca/uxcell-M1-6-0-35-Stainless-Furniture-Connection/dp/B0C1SD14T7/ref=sr_1_7?crid=ICYTYSNQF0I&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.QPmX-9CvYoHbKQlqWxxXjPjoan8Wj1IXZGoPqP6r9UiUewBU26BCEBQG9ENPWsaTc2ojumlvoKfH-Olh804NJokiiGHzGRla9Ug0mvY7_Qg-BpM7NLre5NG9k5uJT-9o7tG7jdxyYf4COXg6F63bWgEB-7hmvNvaXbV3tjwxY4t4tkliZcnuzf47uWbFC_oAQyDk-bVrQ5H8gNwfsgYAG-idQFWDk0r48yS3vXKOOQOCbYs8QbESFoKmpLvslcvpnpUVn6yKFI3GoXMjVN0DM5TMMr6SrFg0wdJiejlhgYQ.eb9t8NljCL5pliaj9bcVikvwEqTrPV1coXRSYqzkkhI&dib_tag=se&keywords=uxcell%2BM1.6%2B3mm&qid=1757789290&sprefix=uxcell%2Bm1%2B6%2B3mm%2Caps%2C254&sr=8-7&th=1
10. M3 x 12mm bolt x2pcs
11. M6 x 10mm bolt
12. M3 x 3mm set screw
13. M3 x 12mm set screw x2pcs
14. M4 x 12mm bolt x 5pcs
15. button (this might not be a momentary switch. I had to modify it to be momentary)- https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/judco-manufacturing-inc/40-3355-01/611175
16. boot x 2pcs - https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/judco-manufacturing-inc/19-1082-01/611181
17. MR30 connectors - https://www.amazon.ca/Female-Connector-Plated-Sheath-Battery/dp/B07VMK96QH/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.QflSq3rquCpKAiD5kuC-QrTOG9mvcknQvkHR5ODsD8YxMwiOhAC7tv7e1FRCdAeuGCMnflU7UU0ydfvMklrnxDfDIIkpKwOhUjFXFL5IeEk9N82yvu1gWP8gxN7Lp-BjxhR0NbbxUmQr0htnOpClxB-568tijdQS-TCzPF0PK7SobPgkkE62sOgNyvHgDjMeJ92TymYqI3t__dv9_8z4Ep_NJ4bIT5j2wKsIdavRHbC2CbZTaaH9nXPJs9I3if35l39eCISwK9we1jC4_CIXftzzJasKq-LRikAnVngqga4.eWGd9j5f0kL1NpHLxSq6OWOIEPy4Keh_jijsWAeSCBo&dib_tag=se&keywords=mr30+connector&qid=1757794649&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
18. Adaptor for those not on shimano brakes - https://www.amazon.ca/Wolf-Tooth-ShiftMount-I-spec-Shifters/dp/B0937YYMGW/ref=pd_lpo_d_sccl_1/131-7246147-8075054?pd_rd_w=09iwz&content-id=amzn1.sym.d3f44101-6e04-446e-916c-a6ec5616982b&pf_rd_p=d3f44101-6e04-446e-916c-a6ec5616982b&pf_rd_r=7TS1MZ533ZZNSV0BTEW0&pd_rd_wg=cKV2e&pd_rd_r=e4e2768f-de94-4e24-b8d7-4e224d479c57&pd_rd_i=B0937YYMGW&psc=1

Get parts machined. I have machined everything out of 6061 aluminum. We have used PCBway and JLCPCB in the past with good success. They are easy to use and cheap for low quantity. I would love to get a local place to make these parts but would need to make at least 25 units to make financial sense... if the project gets interest I may start selling kits with made in canada local parts. Note: you could try printing some of these parts but the follow parts must be metal: "bottom_rev11", "Cam_rev11", "saddle_clamp_bottom_rev11", "saddle_clamp_top_rev11"

Print the following parts. These parts are not structural but will be expose to the outdoors. I would recommend PETG or better. I run an M4 tap through the holes in the "Remote_body_rev11". These may be changed to heat set thread inserts in the future but so far tapping the plastic has worked.

UPDATE: I updated the electronics cover and remote cover and added a spherical washer print

1. Take the RF transmitter PCB and place it on the back of the button
2. place button and contacts in the 3D print "Remote_body_rev11"
3. Route the wires so that the red wire on the goes directly to a battery contact. the black wire on the transmitter will go to on of the leads on the button. the other lead on the button will go to the other battery contact.
4. Cut the wires to the appropriate lengths and strip back 1/8" insulation for soldering
5. Solder the red wire to an outer tab on one of the battery contacts.
6. Solder the black wire from the transmitter PCB to the button (the black lead on the transmitter PCB can be replaced by the button lead to clean things up)
7. Solder the other button wire to an outside tab on the other battery contact
8. Hot glue the transmitter board to the back of the button and carefully insert the button, transmitter and contacts into the remote body.
9. use the protective boot nut to secure the button inside the remote body
10. place two CR2016 batteries in the remote body. Make sure the positive side of the batteries are aligned to the positive contact (red wire) and the negative side of the batteries to the negative contact ( black wire)
11. If you would like to add more hot glue to the PCB, now is the time.
12. Install the remote cover with 2 M4 x 12mm bolts to the back of the remote body, encapsulating the ttransmitter, button and batteries.
13. Attach the "I-SPEC-EV_remote_mount" via two M4 x 12mm bolts on the front of the remote body.
14. Attach the thumb paddle to the remote mount with an M4 x 12mm bolt
15. Attach assembly to your shimano brake lever
16. See step file assembly for further details

1. Start with the electronics body 3d print
2. place the receiver PCB in the inner pocket in the electronics body (see image)
3. insert the MR30 pinned connector into the oval slot at the top of the electronics body. pins face out
4. measure the red wire on the pcb to reach pin 1 on the connect and the black wire to pin 3 on the connector
5. remove the PCB, cut and strip the wires, then solder into the MR 30 connector
6. Put the now wired board into the electronic body and use hot glue to secure it in place
7. route yellow and blue wire out the bottom slot seen in the attached image
8. From your machined parts, take "bottom_rev11" and make sure the center most hole is tapped to M6. If you did not specify this to the manufacturer, tap it now.
9. take the Pusher and the 3D printed pusher top and put them together, use super glue if desired
10. Put the pusher in the top as seen in the image
11. insert the motor and secure it with two M1.6 x 3mm bolts
12. Using an M3 x 3mm set screw secure the cam to the motor shaft ensuring the set screw is on the flat of the shaft
13. take the electronics module and solder the blue and yellow wires to the tabs on the motor. Polarity does not matter
14. place Top on ensuring not to crush the wires. Route wire close around the cylinder
15. Push electronics body onto the CNC bottom and top parts while routing wires
16. Insert 2 M3 bolts in the 2 locations on the underside of the actuation module to secure the electonics body
17. Tuck wires, you can use hot glue to secure them
18. Affix cover with two m2 self tapping screws
19. Take a protective boot nut. remove the nut from the rubber. Stretch the boot over the lip on the top to secure it
20. take a look at the step file assembly for more information

1. take the "battery cover" and insert the MR30 connector in the slot in the 3D print. This should be the socket connector.
2. Take two batteries. On the first battery take the red wire and solder it to pin 1.
3. take the black wire from battery 1 and the red wire from battery 2 and solder it to pin 2. Be careful not to short the batteries
4. Take the black wire from the second battery and solder it to pin 3 being careful not to short any of the pins
5. Take the battery and cover and insert it into the "battery body"
6. Take the M2 x 5mm screws and screw them into the 4 holes in the battery

1. Remove cartridge from the post - see oneup service manual
2. Secure "post_bottom_rev11" to the base of the cartridge (where the schader valve is) with the stock nut
3. tighten the post bottom into the post body
4. slide the stanchion down to place the actuation module on top of the cartridge
5. Use two M3 x 12mm long set screws and slide them in the holes at the base of the actuation module to secure the module to the cartridge
6. use the 3D printed conical washer and a M6 x 10mm bolt to secure the stanchion of the post to the actuation module
7. Use the stock bolts and nuts for the saddle clamp of your one up seat post
8. place the saddle clamp bottom in the cradle on the of the actuation module
9. Take the Saddle clamp top and place it over the saddle rails make sure the stock clamp nuts are in the new "saddle clamp top"
10. combine the saddle clamp to install your saddle on the seat post
11. Slide the battery along the back of the module to install. Note the connector can only be plugged in one way so you want to ensure pin 1 lines up with pin 1 during the build process