Drink Can Tinwork
by Atomic Shrimp in Workshop > Metalworking
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Drink Can Tinwork
How to transform an aluminium drink can into a charming little embossed metal box.
Here's the video version of the instructions:
Here's the video version of the instructions:
Clean Off the Paint
Using abrasive paper and/or steel wool, rub off the paint/printing on the outside the can. This doesn't have to be perfect, as tthis will be the inner surface of the finished box.
However, skipping this step altogether makes it quite hard to see what you're doing in subsequent steps.
By far the easiest time to do this is when the can is still full and sealed, because the liquid inside will support the walls as you press on them with the abrasive.
However, skipping this step altogether makes it quite hard to see what you're doing in subsequent steps.
By far the easiest time to do this is when the can is still full and sealed, because the liquid inside will support the walls as you press on them with the abrasive.
Cut the Can Open
Empty out the can contents and using a sharp pair of scissors, cut around the top, down one side and around the bottom.
This should leave you with a rectangle-shaped piece of thin metal.
The edges may be incredibly sharp and jagged. Please be really careful!
Trim off the jagged edges of the rectangle, but try not to remove too much material.
This should leave you with a rectangle-shaped piece of thin metal.
The edges may be incredibly sharp and jagged. Please be really careful!
Trim off the jagged edges of the rectangle, but try not to remove too much material.
Tape the Metal to a Slightly Springy Board
Tape the metal down flat to a stiff surface that has a little bit of yield in it. This could be a piece of stout cardboard, but I used the cork back of a dining table mat.
Mark Out the Net of the Box
Using a stout ballpoint pen and a straight edge, firmly inscribe lines into the metal
- starting with a two-inch square right in the middle, then a four-inch square surrounding it, followed by another (approx) 5 inch square surrounding that.
Extend the lines right off the edge of the metal in both directions - when you're done, you should end up with a quite complicated-looking grid pattern (take a look at the pictures for details).
The above dimensions are based on a tall 440ml can - if you're starting with a smaller one, you might need to scale things down to fit the available materials
- starting with a two-inch square right in the middle, then a four-inch square surrounding it, followed by another (approx) 5 inch square surrounding that.
Extend the lines right off the edge of the metal in both directions - when you're done, you should end up with a quite complicated-looking grid pattern (take a look at the pictures for details).
The above dimensions are based on a tall 440ml can - if you're starting with a smaller one, you might need to scale things down to fit the available materials
Inscribe Patterns in the Top and Sides
Again, using the ballpoint pen, inscribe patterns on the top and side sections of the box - you can do this freehand for curly or organic shapes, or use a straight edge or even a stencil for geometric ones.
You can even do lettering, but as this will be the inside surface of the box, you'll need to write it backwards.
You can even do lettering, but as this will be the inside surface of the box, you'll need to write it backwards.
Outline the Raised Pattern
Remove the tape securing the metal - now that it's embossed, it should stay pretty nuch flat all on its own.
Turn it over so you're working on the side with the raised pattern.
Using the ballpoint pen, inscribe a line around the inside and outside edge of all the raised patterns.
This takes quite a while and seems laborious, but it's worth it in the end, so keep going...
Turn it over so you're working on the side with the raised pattern.
Using the ballpoint pen, inscribe a line around the inside and outside edge of all the raised patterns.
This takes quite a while and seems laborious, but it's worth it in the end, so keep going...
Re-impress the Original Embossed Pattern
Turn the metal over again, so you're working on the inscribed side.
With the ballpoint pen, firmly retrace the entire original pattern.
This process of inscribing, outlining, then re-inscribing the pattern creates a much sharper relief for the box decoration.
With the ballpoint pen, firmly retrace the entire original pattern.
This process of inscribing, outlining, then re-inscribing the pattern creates a much sharper relief for the box decoration.
Cut Off the Waste Material
Scribe the Corner Pieces
Turn the metal over so you are working on the raised pattern side.
Using the ballpoint pen and a straight edge, inscribe diagonal lines into each of the corner pieces, running out radially from the centre.
Using the ballpoint pen and a straight edge, inscribe diagonal lines into each of the corner pieces, running out radially from the centre.
Fold Along the Creases to Form the Box
Fold the metal to start forming the box - the inscribed lines box should fold naturally in their own correct directions.
The diagonal corners fold inwards as the sides fold down.
Once the sides are folded to an angle of 90 degrees vs the top, the folded-in corner pieces can be pinched flat and pressed in pairs against the inside.
The diagonal corners fold inwards as the sides fold down.
Once the sides are folded to an angle of 90 degrees vs the top, the folded-in corner pieces can be pinched flat and pressed in pairs against the inside.
Fold in the Tabs
Fold the small tabs inwards along all sides, starting with the sides against which the folded-in corner pieces had been pressed.
This performs two functions - the folded tab secures the corner pieces in place, holding the box together, but also, the folded edge means the finished box should have no exposed sharp edges.
Repeat for all four tabs and the box is finished.
This performs two functions - the folded tab secures the corner pieces in place, holding the box together, but also, the folded edge means the finished box should have no exposed sharp edges.
Repeat for all four tabs and the box is finished.
Make More Boxes
If you make another box of similar design, but a quarter inch smaller all around the top, you can fit the first one over it as a lid.
The bottom box can then be lined with fabric or felt glued into place, or self-adhesive flock.
The bottom box can then be lined with fabric or felt glued into place, or self-adhesive flock.