Dome Picture-Mosaic

While visiting the US I had come across a fantastic artwork of Nemo Jantzen. I was so inspired that I decided to create my own version, turning it into a nearly yearlong journey. Don’t worry, though—I'll show you how you can bring this incredible art style to life in a much shorter time frame!

For the Design Process:

1. A few thousand pictures for the small images (these will form the "pixels" of your artwork).
2. A main picture to serve as the main design.

For the domes:

1. Time – be prepared to invest a lot of it.
2. 5–10 kg of epoxy resin (I used around 10 kg, but you may need less depending on adjustments).
3. Dome silicone molds – 2.7 cm in diameter.
4. 24 sheets of glossy photo paper for printing the small images.

For the Pour / Base Construction:

1. Black opaque epoxy paint.
2. Silicone sealant.
3. Wood (change the dimensions to your needs):
4. 98x87x2 cm – for the base; ensure it has a rough white surface.
5. 106x95 cm – for the bottom, with a smooth surface.
6. 2 pieces of 1x104 cm wood – for the sides (smooth surface).
7. 2 pieces of 1x94 cm wood – for the other sides (smooth surface).
8. Sturdy Wall Mount

General Equipment:

1. A computer with a CUDA-compatible graphics card or access to Google Colab for processing the images.
2. Personal protective equipment (PPE) for working with epoxy resin: respirator, nitrile gloves, safety glasses...
3. A Dremel or similar tool for cutting cured epoxy resin.
4. Heat gun or blow torch to remove bubbles from the surface of the domes.

To create the base image for your project, I recommend choosing an art style that isn’t overly detailed—pop art works particularly well because of its bold lines and clear shapes.

I’ve created a Google Colab Notebook to make it easy for you to create the placement plan for the domes. This notebook requires no local installation and is easier to use. Here’s how to get started:

1. Access the Notebook:
2. Run the Code: Run the setup node and test if everything works by creating a plan by running the nodes. In the left tab you can find the files tab, where you can download the example plan.
3. Run with Your own Images: When prompted, upload your main picture and the smaller images to be used as domes. Rerun the last node and download your plans.

Or here's a link to my github repository. Make sure to install all the requirements (see README.md) and that you have enough ram and a cuda driver to run it. This also allows you to export with a higher image quality. But you need to install all the dependencies and troubleshoot it by yourself.

This also distorts the images to remove the magnifying effect of the domes if viewed from afar (as can be seen in the video). This is necessary to make any lines in the images continuous. If you're interested in the exact math of this, you can look at the simulation file in the repo and I'm working on a blog post explaining process behind it.

Before committing to large batches, I highly recommend testing small batches first. The goal is to achieve domes with a near bubble-free finish.

Preparation

1. Room Temperature Epoxy: Ensure your epoxy resin is at room temperature before mixing. This helps reduce the formation of bubbles.
2. Mix Slowly: Take your time when mixing the resin to avoid introducing unnecessary air bubbles.

Molding the Domes

1. Using Molds: Place your silicone molds on a stable surface. In my project, I suspended the molds using skewers to counteract a bulge forming at the dome's tip. This issue may arise if you're using thinner, lower-quality molds.
2. Heat Gun for Bubbles: After pouring the resin, let it sit for a while and then use a heat gun (or blow torch) to carefully remove surface bubbles.
3. Vacuum Chamber (Optional): If you have access to a vacuum chamber, it’s ideal for degassing the resin before pouring, ensuring a bubble-free result. Unfortunately, I didn’t have access to one, so I relied on careful mixing and surface bubbling techniques instead.

Scaling Up

1. You’ll need to create about 1100 domes for the final project, so having extra molds will significantly speed up the process. During my experimentation, I ended up making around 1500 domes, accounting for test batches and errors.

This step can be challenging and requires patience, precision, and careful preparation. Please make sure that you have good quality nitrile gloves for this step.

Preparation

1. Level Your Surface: Ensure your workspace is perfectly level to prevent domes from sliding out of place. Using faster-curing epoxy can also help the domes stay in position.
2. Print Your Plan: Use the plan you generated in Step 1.
3. Print it at 100% scale for accurate placement.
4. Do a single page first and do a Fit Check: Before proceeding, confirm that your domes align perfectly with the printed markings.

Placing the Domes

1. Thin Epoxy Layer: Pour a thin layer of epoxy resin over the base to act as an adhesive for the domes. Work in small batches (3–4 pages) so the epoxy doesn’t become too viscous before you’re done.
2. Positioning: Carefully place each dome onto its marking, ensuring there are no bubbles trapped underneath.
3. Use tweezers or thin sticks for precise placement.
4. Gently press the domes into place to eliminate any trapped air.
5. Sometimes it can help to slide the Domes into place.
6. Cleaning: Use isopropyl alcohol and wipes to clean off any epoxy that spills onto the surface of the domes.

To ensure your final piece is neat and professional-looking, you’ll need to trim the plates and align them properly. This step involves cutting down excess material and sanding for a clean finish.

Tools and Preparation

1. Tool: Use a Dremel (or similar rotary tool) with a rough cutting bit for initial trimming and a sanding bit for smoothing.
2. Safety Gear: Wear safety glasses and a respirator mask to protect yourself from dust and debris.
3. Work Area: Perform this step in a well-ventilated area or use a dust collector if available.

Steps

1. Rough Cutting:
2. Use a rough cutting bit on the Dremel to trim the plates to their approximate final size.
3. Focus on cutting down the rough edges while leaving a bit of excess material for precise sanding later.
4. Sanding:
5. Switch to a sanding bit and carefully smooth the edges of the plates for a clean finish.
6. Pay close attention to the edges of the plates to ensure that no material sticks out.
7. Removing Paper:
8. Check for any paper sticking out from the epoxy or domes and remove it carefully with the sanding bit.

If the paper and epoxy delaminate during this step you reapply it using a bit of epoxy.

In this step, you’ll prepare the wood base, secure the plates, and pour the black epoxy resin to complete the background. Precision and preparation are key to avoid leaks and ensure a smooth result.

Preparing the Wood Base

1. Tape or Smooth Surface:
2. I used special epoxy tape to prepare the wood, but this step might not be necessary if the wood surface is smooth enough.
3. If you’re unsure, apply epoxy tape to ensure the resin doesn’t bond to the wood.
4. Mold Construction:
5. Pre-drill the wood at the edges where you’ll attach the sides of the mold.
6. Apply silicone sealant along the seams, then screw the wood pieces together to create a secure mold.

Securing the Plates

1. Cleaning the Plates:
2. Thoroughly clean the plates to remove any dust or residue that could interfere with adhesion or visibility.
3. Gluing each Plate:
4. Apply a thin layer of epoxy resin glue on the bottom of a plate.
5. Carefully place the plate onto the wood base.
6. This step is crucial to prevent the black epoxy from flowing underneath the plates, which can obscure the final image.
7. Check the Alignment of the Plates:
8. Make sure that each

Pouring the Black Epoxy

1. Mixing the Black Epoxy:
2. Use a high pigment concentration to ensure that even a thin layer (1 mm) completely covers the white of the plates.
3. Layered Pouring:
4. Pour the epoxy in 1 cm layers, especially if you’re using a resin type that requires slower curing to avoid overheating.
5. Layering also makes it easier to stop and address leaks as they occur.
6. Leak Prevention:
7. Keep duct tape handy to immediately seal any unexpected leaks.
8. Monitor the mold closely for the first few hours to catch and fix any issues early.

Now that the resin has cured and the plates are securely in place, the last step is to refine the edges of the piece and add a mount to make it display-ready.

Smoothing the Edges

1. Trimming Excess Resin:
2. Use a Dremel or similar rotary tool with a sanding or cutting bit to remove any excess resin along the edges.
3. Work slowly and carefully to avoid chipping or damaging the resin.
4. Sanding for a Smooth Finish:
5. Once the edges are trimmed, switch to fine-grit sandpaper (start with 200 and progress to 400 or 600 grit) to smooth the edges further.
6. For a polished look, you can use a polishing attachment or fine polishing compound on the edges.

Adding a Mount

1. Choose a Mount Type:
2. Depending on the weight and size of the piece, choose a sturdy wall mount.
3. Attach the Mount:
4. Use screws to securely attach the mount to the back of the frame. Don't forget to predrill and make sure to drill too far.
5. Ensure it’s centered and level for proper hanging.

Final Touches

1. Clean the Surface: Use isopropyl alcohol or a soft cloth to clean any fingerprints, dust, or residue from the surface.

And with that, your project is complete! You now have a stunning, personalized artwork ready to display or gift. 🎉