Doll House Kitchen Appliances 1/12th Scale

This Instructable shows how to build a set of contemporary Doll House kitchen appliances in 1/12th scale & includes the following.

Touch sensitve halogen hob with individual light up rings.

Extractor fan, chimney type with hob illumination.

Electric oven, built in with illuminated interior.

Microwave, built in with illuminated interior.

Fridge Freezer with pull out drawers.

Pic 1. Completed kitchen with appliances installed. The kitchen units will feature in a future Instructable.

Pic 2. Halogen hob showing how rings individually illuminate by touch.

Pic 3. Fridge/freezer, oven & microwave with open appliance doors.

Built for my 1960s style Dolls House that I made for my Granddaughters 3rd birthday. This Doll House was modelled on my actual house that has original 1960s exterior but has a modern interior.

This build is part of a series of Intructables on building my 1960s Dolls House.

Although most people will not want to build the whole design they may wish to use or adapt some of the design featues for their own house build.

Here is the list of Instructables so far. I will add more to this vast project in the comming weeks.

See 1960s Doll House build here.

See lighting Instructable here.

See Doll House Smart TV, Sound to light and Woodburner Instructable.

See Doll House Christmas Lights Instructable here.

See my 1960s Doll House web site here for details.

This instructable requires a 3D printer and some basic electronic skills.

Printer filament PLA/PLA+ clear and black.

2mm Stainless steel rod for the woodburning stove/oven handles https://amzn.eu/d/01k54m5

Appliance illumination LEDs https://amzn.eu/d/4nKblZ2

OHP Inkjet paper for Hob and illuminated panels https://amzn.eu/d/0NnYFPL

Resistors 180 Ohm https://amzn.eu/d/9vjeILD Qty 1 per LED

Small piece of 1mm Perspex Sheet for Hob, Oven and Microwave Oven

Silver and Black Acrylic Paint

1mm wire for appliance hinges

Vero Board as required depending on quantity of fuses, LEDs and or circuits used.

TP223 touch modules for halogen hob Qty 4 off

12mm Mounting Hole Red Square Latching Push Switch https://amzn.eu/d/hYh0g3B

Pic 1 & 2. The Hob has touch controlled rings that light when touched or if a metal pan in put down on a ring.

Pic 3. The circuit uses 4 off TP223 capacitive touch sensitive modules that light an LED under each hob ring when touched. Touching a ring again will turn it off.

TP223 module details

Each module is connected to 5volts, the outputs are not connected.

Strap B is connected on each module making the module lock on whatever state it is in i.e. on or off.

Each time a module is activated by touch the built in LED illuminates and lights the hob ring above.

Pic 4. The hob elements are printed out onto inkjet overhead transparency paper using the enclosed picture. I have made the print dark to give the correct illumination.

These are the 3D printed part names for the hob.

HobSurfaceTrim

This trim is glued to the worktop around the hob cutout to hide the cut edges.

HobSurface

This is the 3D printed support for the print of the Hob elements and holds the touch bolts

KitHobSpacerVero

This part spaces the HobSurface part away from the Vero Board and touch sensors. Is fixed to the Vero board with M2 bolts into the two threaded inserts.

KitHobClampTopA & KitHobClampTopB

The Vero Board is clamped under these 3D parts.

KitHobClampBase 2 off

The 2 off parts KitHobClampBase are fitted with M2 threaded inserts to take the above parts and are then glued to the underside of the worktop.

Video How to use Vero Board

Pic 1. The location of the touch modules on the Vero Board

Pic 2. Same view but with the touch modules removed to show the "KitHobVeroSpacer" part and the mounting connectors for the touch modules.

Pic 3. This is the rear of the Vero board

Pic 4. This is the schematic for the Hob and also the lighting for the other apliances and down lights.

See my Instructable on Doll House Lighting for further details

The lighting for the appliances, hob rings and downlights are controlled by 1 switch.

The worktop referred to in this instructable are made from 50mm wide strips of 3mm plywood. The worktop will be used in my next Instructable showing how to build a Doll House Kitchen.

Pic 1 diagram D on all four touch modules solder link across B contact pads and solder a 40mm length of wire to the touch contact pad. On the other end of these four wires solder a M2 solder tag.

Pic 1 diagram C insert a M2 bolt, M2 washer, solder tag with wire (see above) and a Nyloc Nut in each of the four holes in the "HobSurface" 3D part.

Pic 1 diagram B insert touch modules into the sockets on the Vero Board. With two M2 bolts fix 3D part "KitHobSpacerVero" to the top of the Vero Board (bolt from the rear of the board).

Pic 5 Push the "HobSurface" 3D part onto the "KitHobSpacerVero" tucking the wires out of the way.

Pic 1 diagram E Using the "HobSurface" 3D part as a template draw around it with a pencil on the 3mm plywood worktop 77mm from the end. This will position it in the middle of a double unit. Cut out the hole using the pencil marks as a guide.

Pic 1 diagram E slot the "HobSurface" into the worktop hole cut above. Position the two 3D parts "KitHobClampBase" either side of the Vero Board/"HobSurface" and glue in place with super glue. Hold untill set.

Pic 2 Bolt the 3D parts "KitHobClampTopA" & "KitHobClampTopB" in place to the threaded inserts in the "KitHobClampBase". This will clamp the vero Board in place.

Pic 4 shows the Vero Board clamped in place under the worktop.

Pic 1 diagram A with the Vero Board clamped in place insert the printed hob element sheet onto the "HobSurface" followed by a cut piece of 1mm Perspex and then hold these in place by super gluing the 3D part "HobSurfaceTrim" to the worktop cutout again with super glue.

Pic 4 connect 5v to the connector on the underside of the Vero Board and check that touching each hob ring in turn lights that hob ring. Touching a ring again turns that ring off.

Pic 1. The chimney type extractor fan is based around the Bosch model I have in my kitchen Pic 2 and 3.

I have fitted an LED down light to illuminate the hob as per the original. A strip of overhead projector paper is also illuminated my this LED to act as the LED control panel.

Pic 1. The extractor comprises of seven parts. There are five 3D printed parts and an illuminated control panel printed on OHP paper covered by a 1mm Perspex strip.

The "ExtractorDiffuser" & "ExtractorDiffCap" are printed in clear to allow the LED light to illuminate the hob and backlight the extractor control panel.

The other parts are painted silver/alluminium.

Once the extractor is painted a Bosch logo (pic. 5) in printed on inkjet transfer paper and applied to the front of the exractor.

Assembly

Pic 2. Print the OHP label (pic. 4) and place in the slot in the "ExtractorLower". Add a small piece of Perspex into the slot in front of the label.

Screw the "ExtractorLower" to the ExtractorDiffuser" with M2 self tappers. The "ExtractorChimney" and "ExtractorDiffCap" are glued to the "ExtractorLower".

The LED for illumination is wired through a slot cut in the Doll House wall via the cupboard below and just sits in place.

A splash back (part name SplashBack) is fitted to the wall with M1 screws between the hob and extractor.

The splash back also hides the wiring to the LED in the extractor.

The "ExtractorFixBracket" is then screwed to the Doll House wall with M2 screws. Position the bracket so the "ExtractorDiffuser" fits into the cutout in the splashback.

2 off M2 bolts though the chimney secure the extractor in place.

See schematic pic 6 for wiring.

The oven and microwave are both 3D printed and fit into my Doll House kitchen build (Instructable to follow) but can of course be fitted into any other 1/12 scale Doll House.

The oven and microwave have LED internal lighting and backlit control panels. The doors open and close on metal pin hinges.

See pic 3 schematic for wiring of LEDs.

The oven is illuminated by an LED mounted in the "KitchenOvenSpace" part, controlled by the "Kit Down Light" button.

Paint the oven parts as per pic. 3.

The OHP label pic. 4 is glued behind the "OvenDisplay" and is backlit by the LED.

Glue short bits of wire into the holes of the "OvenDisplay" and allow then to protrude to act as rotary controls.

Glue the "OvenHandle" to the "Oven" part and then glue a 2mm stainless steel rod cut to length into the recess on the "OvenHandle".

1mm Perspex sheet is fitted between the "Oven" & "OvenDoorRear" in the recess in the "Oven". Glue the "Oven" part to the "OvenDoorRear".

Glue the "OvenDisplay" into the "KitchenovenBox".

Glue the "KitchenovenBox" to the "KitchenovenSpace"

Pic 2. Fix the completed door to the "KitchenovenBox" using a 1mm diameter wire as a hinge.

The microwave is illuminated by an LED mounted in the "MWaveOvenSpace" part, controlled by the "Kit Down Light" button.

Paint the microwave parts as per pic. 3.

The OHP label pic. 4 is glued behind the "MWaveDisplay" and is backlit by the LED.

Glue short bits of wire into the holes of the "MWaveDisplay" and allow then to protrude to act as rotary controls.

Glue the "OvenHandle" to the "MWave" part and then glue a 2mm stainless steel rod cut to length into the recess on the "OvenHandle".

1mm Perspex sheet is fitted between the "MWave" & "MWaveDoorRear" in the recess in the "MWave". Glue the "MWave" part to the "MWaveDoorRear".

Glue the "MWaveDisplay" into the "MWaveBox".

Glue the "MWaveBox" to the "MWaveOvenSpace"

Pic 2. Fix the completed door to the "MWaveBox" using a 1mm diameter wire as a hinge.

The Fridge Freezer is a "built in" type and is designed to fit into my Doll House kitchen but should fit into any other 1/12 scale Doll House kitchen.

Pic 1 & 2. The fridge freezer is 3D printed and has a pull out salad drawer in clear filamant , four shelves on the door also in clear plus three internal shelves in the fridge.

The freezer has 3 pull out drawers all printed in clear filament.

Pic 1. shows the parts and quantities required to build the fridge freezer.

Note fridge freezer was designed to be fitted in to an in frame kitchen. The 3D parts "kitchenFridgeDoor" and "kitchenFreezerDoor" are hinged off 1mm wire through the middle of the "FridgeDoorFrame" and also at top of the fridge door through the kitchen frame and the bottom of the freezer door through the kitchen frame.

Doors.

Paint the doors to match the kitchen. Glue the "FridgeDoorShelf" to "kitchenFridgeDoor" making sure the door can shut with the shelves in place.

Glue the 4 off "FridgeDoorShelfTrays" to the "FridgeDoorShelf".

Glue the "FridgeDoorFrame" to the "FridgebackBox".

Insert the "FridgeSaladTry" in to lower fridge shelf and then insert the 4 off "FridgeFreezTrays" into the "FridgebackBox".

Pic 2. Hang the "kitchenFridgeDoor" with 1mm metal hinges of the kitchen frame top and middle "FridgeDoorFrame".

Pic 2. Hang the "kitchenFreezerDoor" with 1mm metal hinges of the kitchen frame bottom and middle "FridgeDoorFrame".

I have included CURA 3D files with each part of this build but if you wish to make your own custom parts from my designs then you can download the FreeCAD files from my 1960s Doll House site here.