Diy Screenprinting Presses

These are mini silkscreen presses that are designed to print four by five inch images and fit in a backpack.

I prefer a wooden frame which can be easily restretched with a staple gun to the metal, made in China frames that are more difficult to rescreen. Simple frames can be made from four identical pieces of lumber. We have used throw away pieces from our local pallet recycler which are easily cut into 1"x1"x6"pieces to make a 4"x6" ID frame. Liberal use of woodglue and 18 GA brad nails will ensure a solid frame. Sandwich the nailed and glued frames between pieces of flat board with a weight while the glue cures.

This step consists of making a base that is big enough to accommodate the screen holding hardware and a raised platen to interface with the screen. For my base I cut a 7" section from a piece of decent plywood

I used a sandpaper fitted angle grinder, 60 grit sander and 120 grit sander in succession to even out and finish the frames, base , and platen.

Pick a way of finishing the newly sanded pieces. I went with wood stain , to which I added some different colors of oil paint. Apply stain with a heavy hand and allow 20 minutes to penetrate the wood, then wipe the excess off with a rag. You could also use paint or oil, anything that will seal and protect the raw wood. I also painted on some polyurethane after the stain was dry.

This can be approached a few different ways with the simplest being a wooden arm with a slot cut to hold the screen while printing. Alternately, drill a hole in a 2 inch clamp to pivot attached to an angled bracket.

The suspension holds the screen up off the platen in between prints. I have experimented with just using the tightness of the bolt that attaches the screen holding part to the base to provide suspension, which works okay . Other options include rubber bands and metal springs. My favorite configuration is 2 inch c clamps bolted to angled brackets attached to the base. The metal springs attach via a second hole drilled in each clamp

Hingeclamp, suspension, and platen are attached to the base with appropriate hardware. Video https://goo.gl/photos/vurhWLUz323KiGHX9

I use sheer polyester mesh from the thrift store for a few bucks. It is usually about the same as 120 -200 mesh depending on the quality of the fabric. Cut a piece about an inch bigger than the frame all around. Wet the screen with water right before you stretch and the finished screen will tighten up as the mesh dries. Start with one side and put a staple into the center and ends , anchoring the mesh. Repeat on the opposite side while pulling the screen taut. Then do the other parallel sides the same way. Next , on the original side , pull the fabric tight and staple in between the first anchors. Go all the way around the framend, pulling and stapling until the screen is secure. I leave no more than about a1/4 inch between staples.

Emulsion is the light sensitive material that will make the printable stencil used to print. It must be applied and dried in darkness. While wet, during the act of coating, indirect indoor light is acceptable as the emulsion dries, it must be stored in complete darkness. I use the bathroom outfitted with a fan and space heater for this step . I made a light proof bag from opaque scrim material to store the screens once dry.

Different methods of exposing partial areas of the screen to light work to varying degrees. Any opaque object could be used to block exposure and In sunlight the screen becomes fully cured in about 30 seconds. Under a halogen shop light suspended 10 inches above the screen exposure takes 4-10 minutes. Get a cheap timer and experiment with exposure times. Laser printed Clear adhesive film available from cheapo print shops will give razor sharp exposures with minimal fuss. In a pinch parchment or butcher or tracing paper can be made translucent with a liberal application of baby oil.