Develop 110 + APS Film on Ratchet Mechanism With Paterson Major II Tank Reel Hack

I hacked a Paterson Major II Tank and reels to be able to develop 110 film format and APS film format on a ratchet mechanism as well as the other film format sizes it allows to be developed in the tank: 135,120,127, and 620.

The hacked tank can process at any one time the following max combinations of film formats:

2 x APS

1 x 35mm + 1 x 110

1 x 35mm + 1 x APS

1 x 127 + 1 x APS

1 x 120

2 x 35mm

1 x 620

I used two developing reels and columns, and one Paterson Major II Tank for this project. You can easily buy these Paterson Major II Tanks second-hand online for very little money. For me it was an inexpensive way of developing 110 film format and APS on a ratchet mechanism without having to buy dedicated reels in from the US (i'm in the UK). Or going to the effort of 3D printing reels. I also thought it was a way to repurpose my old tank. I'm all for less going in landfill if I can help it.

1 x Paterson Major II Tank

2 x Paterson Major II Reel

2 x Paterson Major II Columns

1 x Tenon Saw 14 TPI

1 x Bench Vice

1 x Marker Pen

1 x Ruler

1 x Pliers

1 x End Cutting Pliers/Nippers/Clippers

With a fine tooth Tenon Saw cut through just one of the black column plastics in a straight line where the blue line indicates. DO NOT cut through the clear plastic. Be sure to leave a 1-2mm gap so your saw doesn't catch the clear reel and shatter it.

You can hold the reel and column still using a bench vice whilst making the cut. Be sure to keep your saw blade straight to make an even all the way through, straight cut. A saw that wobbles/bends will result in an uneven cut.

Remove the metal ratcheting clip from the other side of the reel, and then cut through the plastic reel with a Tenon Saw where the blue line indicates in the image. Leave a gap of 4mm from the base of the clear neck to blue line where orange arrow indicates.

Take the metal ratcheting clip and shorten the longest side of it so it matches the length of the remaining clear reel through the length of the hole. From one side to the other. You will need to apply force with a pair of pliers to the end of the metal clip to bend it around to sit tightly (clipped) in place against the cut clear plastic so it doesn’t come off.

DO NOT cut the metal until you are sure it fits the length of the hole without flattening the v-like shape to the metal clip. This is because this channel is how it will sit in the notches of the reel column, enabling a ratcheting action. BEFORE FINAL CLIP CUTTING try this half reel with newly bent clip on the column to check it ratchets and doesn't come out from between the groves. See the image for location of notches and groves in the black plastic column.

On my clip it is 8mm from the middle (along purple line) to the clip end which is 3mm height (green arrow). Depending on how far in you cut your clear reel neck from base will determine your clip length.

Take the intact (other) reel and column and place the cut reel sides on top. Push the last half of the reel with the black plastic in the hole on the very top. Once you've pushed it firmly on, it should sit in place.

To load an APS or 110 film you will need to load them in this attached on top position so that the reel stays together and the ratchet mechanism works. You will need to hold the half cut reel on the column (with ratcheting clip) in your left hand , and the other half of the reel (with black plastic hole) in your right hand and feed in the film. Adjust the width of the gap between the two halves of reel according to the width of the film format you're loading. Adjusting the clear half reel (with ratcheting clip) on the left hand side only.

Once you've fed the film through and clear of the ball bearings you will be able to start a ratcheting motion and load the whole film on the reel. Take care to make sure you keep the right half of reel (with black plastic hole) wedged on the long black column. With a bit of practice you'll get the hang of how it feels and see the different film format combinations you can develop at anyone time.

If developing 110 or APS you will need to put the reels and column in the Paterson Major II Tank with the cut reel up top (facing the top) and the other intact reel (still attached to the black plastic column) sitting in the bottom on the connector.

IMPORTANT CHECKS:

1... Before placing the lid of the Tank on, make sure the top with the half reel (with black plastic hole) is firmly wedged on the column.

2...Always place the tank on a firm surface when placing on the lid, and take care to align the lid thread on the level before slotting and rotating the lock on the tank. If the lids of these old tanks are not placed on GENTLY and NOT FORCED on then the lid will not get stuck on a misaligned thread. It is very hard to unscrew the lid/remove if this error happens.

3... Make sure to use enough of each chemical (Developer, Fixer, etc) to fill the tank right up to the top. By eye when you see your chemical liquid over-flowing/reaching up through the hole to the grey top of the agitation stick, you will have enough for all to be covered.

1. Film agitation is best suited using the tank agitation stick for films that sit in the top reel. 110 and APS especially.

Hopefully this hack will be useful to other film photographers who have the need to process APS and 110 film more easily in the darkroom! Plus it's a cheap repurposing alternative.