Desktop Live UK Train Departures Clock + Wireless Charger, Weather Station

Hi, this is my desktop version of a live train departures board for UK trains, it shows the train departures at any UK station in real time, and shows you the time and weather as well!

I have designed a stand / mount to make it look cool and have incorporated a wireless charger to make it practical as well as cool.

I tried a couple of different ways and looks and have detailed the process here, it began as trial and error but I'm pleased with the final results. I've also included all my design files for you to use or amend.

Its made from easily available materials, I've included some designs for using a 3D printer but unfortunately mine is playing up at the moment so I decided to carry on without it. I did use a laser cutter to make some pieces, this isn't essential as you could use a scroll saw or handsaw to get the same results, it just might take a little longer.

I take, and deserve, no credit for the operating code, this is created by Gadec-UK who has an excellent set of instructions on his github page here ,I have however included some basic instructions to set it up with no coding in the simplest way. If you don't want to make the stand (or prefer to make your own) the electronics feature only two components.

The Clock

1. ESP32 D1 with CH9102
2. 3.12" 256x64 OLED SSD1322 Display Panel

Charger

1. 5V Output 42mm Coil Wireless Transmitter
2. USB C input/female socket

Stand

1. 10mm metal tube (I used a metal straw for slushies as they are wide enough)
2. 6mm metal tube (again I used a metal straw)
3. 3mm MDF/Plywood
4. Felt - for the base (you could use sticky tabs etc)
5. Optional - Silicone mould making mix
6. Optional - Resin Plaster

Tools

1. Soldering iron
2. Drill & 6mm, 10mm bits
3. Hacksaw
4. Scroll saw, handsaw or laser cutter
5. Metal file

Consumables

1. Solder, flux and wick
2. Glue - super or epoxy
3. Paint
4. Stickers
5. Electronic wire 30 AWG (this helps feed the wire through holes, thicker wire causes problems)

For the display you only need the ESP32 and the OLED display.

The OLED can work in different modes for inputs, for our design it needs to work on four wire SPI (don't worry you don't need to know what this means) To convert the board to SPI you need to remove a link and add a little solder.

On the reverse of the OLED identify R5 & R6. Using a soldering iron, remove the link on R6, this usually comes away very easily. On R5 you need to add a little solder to connect the two points creating a link (see picture)

For my design I also removed the header pins on the OLED to fit into my case better.

I set up a dummy version before incorporating it into my stand to make sure I could make it work.

Only six wires require connecting as per the diagram.

If you (like me) are not that confident in soldering I recommend this Instructable by Randolfo that was excellent in tips and advice.

Once you've wired up the display you need to download a couple of files

I'm using windows and don't really have experience of using a MAC/Linux so my instructions are for Windows, Gadec-UK provides further instructions for other platforms.

You will need to save the following files, here ,and store them in the same folder, I called mine Rail to easily find it.

1. boot_app0.bin
2. bootloader.bin
3. firmware.bin
4. partitions.bin

You'll also need esptool.exe from here again save in the same folder

Now plug the ESP32 board into your computer ensuring its a data cable not just charging (wasted about 20mins with that mistake)

Open device manager and look at Ports(COM & LPT) you should see you ESP board, make a note of the port number, in my picture it's (COM 8).

Now open the file you stored your downloads in, in the address bar at the top type in CMD and enter.

A command window will open and you need to paste the following line into it, but change the COM8 to the port you identified before:

\esptool.exe --chip esp32 --port COM8 --baud 460800 write_flash -z 0x1000 bootloader.bin 0xe000 boot_app0.bin 0x8000 partitions.bin 0x10000 firmware.bin

Press enter and watch the magic.

Reboot you ESP32 (turn it off and on again)

You should now see your OLED spring to life and show the first time set up. Gadec-UK has an excellent video to walk you through set up.

However in brief.

Open your Wi-Fi settings on either your phone or computer (I used an iPhone) you should see Departures board, connect to this, no password needed.

On my phone it automatically took my to the Wi-Fi configuration page, if it doesn't enter 192.168.4.1 into your browser address bar.

Follow the instructions to connect the clock to your own Wi-Fi network, it should then take you to the API configuration page.

The train feed uses API's to grab the information, don't worry the software does this for you, but you need to request a "key", this is like a password that the software uses to allow you access, these are FREE, if you Google train API or departures you'll find a number who charge subscription fees to access the data, you don't want these as its FREE.

You have the option to use three:

1. A National Rail Darwin Lite API token here
2. OpenWeather Map API here this will show the weather at the station you select
3. TfL Open Data API for the London Underground/DLR lines. here

I didn't set up the London feed as I live in the North.

Once you get the keys (via email, they can take a few minutes to arrive) paste them into the interface and you should get the configuration screen.

You won't need help in entering the setting there.

So you should have a working clock. Now take it apart again to build a stand.......

I wanted something better than a simple enclosure and make it a feature on my desk. Originally I thought of putting it in a frame but this felt a little boring so I started designing the stand. My inspiration came from the actually signs you see at stations throughout the UK and went for a miniature one.

I jumped onto Tinkercad and played with a few ideas. The OLED is 100mm x 34mm so this was the starting point of my plans.

To get the sign to hang independently it would need a base that would weigh it down enough so it wouldn't topple over. After making a few out of paper and card i realized that it would need a wide or long base. I thought it would look good as a phone rest, that's when the idea of adding a wireless charger to it arose. It also gave me the opportunity to move the ESP board away from the screen making it a smaller unit.

It was right around now that I found out my two (yes both) 3D printers were not working, one has a damaged hotend I forgot about and the other, a resin printer I cracked the build screen dropping the plate on it. An expensive and annoying afternoon. So I took my measurements and went to my laser cutter.

The base needed to be wide enough to support the clock, deep enough to hold the components and pretty enough to sit on my desk.

Measuring out the components I cut six layers from 3mm MDF so becoming 15mm deep. I measured the components and built cut outs to both fit and hold them in place.

I've attached the DXF file for your laser or SVG if you need to print it out to use a scroll saw or hand saw.

After cutting I glued the pieces together, sanded the edges and was pleased with the shape. However, i thought it would look really good cast in resin plaster.

If you've not used resin plaster before, it works in the same way as plater of paris but once set is much sturdier and is more like pottery or china, it can be sanded down well.

To do this I had to make a mould, so using a silicone mould mix I made one using the MDF version. After the mould set I used the resin plater and made a solid base, it turned out very well. If you need help making a mould there's a great Instructable by Narwhal Labs here that will guide you through it.

This left me with two bases, one MDF and one plaster. I sanded both and sprayed the MDF one black and the plaster one with a clear lacquer.

The bases looked good but a little boring, initially I though I'd add a wireless charging symbol but that's a little dull to, so inspired by traditional British vintage railway signs I designed a station logo to decorate them.

I could only find SVG's that required paying for so made one myself, I've attached the file for your use. I used Stockport and Sheffield but I've included a blank one for you to add your own station, the font is Gil sans.

Using a Cricut machine I cut and transferred them to the bases.

Making the upright stand with a right angle and carrying the wires between the screen and the board presented a challenge.

Initially I thought of a wooden pole or tube, but, those solid enough to support and carry the wires were too bulky and thinner ones were too fragile. So I swapped to metal.

I started with the white base and decided to use 6mm metal and 3d Print a right angle connector to join the vertical and horizontal tubes together. Then remembered that i don't have a working 3D printer so fashioned a corner from one of the wooden tubes I'd discarded.

I have attached the 3d File from Tinkercad for the corner and a screen enclosure if you have a working printer. If you need to Tinker it you can access the design on Tinkercad here

With no 3D printer I went back to my laser cutter and designed an enclosure in the same way as the base using layers to create the shape.

I cut the pieces and glued them together, then sprayed them initially with primer then gloss black car spray paint. DXF file is attached.

To keep it tidy I wanted to feed the wires through the metal tubes, the only way I could see initially was to feed them in from the end. I fed the wires out of the enclosure, covered them in heat shrink covering and fed them though.

I used a couple of rings to attach the enclosure to the horizontal.

The upright was now attached with the wires coming through the tube into the base.

Next was to add the wireless charger, this is very straight forward. Using hot glue I placed the charger into its recess feeding its circuit and wires away. It does not matter which way up it goes but I tested it before gluing. It works well but I don't have any measuring device to see how much power it puts out.

I next added the USB socket, mine came with four wires, two for power, two for data. i didn't need the data wires so snipped these off. I used epoxy glue to secure it as the socket will get pulled about plugging in and out.

Next I connect the power to the charger and to the ESP board using the VIN connector for positive and the other GND connector, this means i can power the board without using its own USB socket.

I then glued in the base cover that was cut out of the original base design and used the same DXF file to cut a felt sheet to create a soft base that wont scratch my desk.

Plugged in and working I was really please with the result, the charger works (although is a little slow)

I had the black base and made one for my son (he lives in Sheffield hence the decal) but used this as a time to improve on bits I wasn't too happy with. I don't like the way the wires come out of the enclosure or the rings holding the screen to the horizontal.

I got hold of some 10mm metal straws and decided to connect 6mm horizontal arms into this and directly to the enclosure.

I ended up drilling 6mm holes into the 10mm upright, I tried, and failed, soldering them together first and this still presented the challenge of feeding the wires in.

Once connected and the wires fed through I added a little epoxy down the 10mm tube to secure it, this made it really solid.

I then followed the same process as the white one for wiring up.

I am much more pleased with this result.

I hope you like my clock, I do find I sit watching it instead of working........

I'm not finished yet though, the feed for train information is free to access in the UK, I have begun the process of amending this to feature Dutch trains and busses as they provide a free national API as well. Unfortunately many other countries, such as the US, do not have a consolidated API for public transport, it may be possible to find one for local regions, states etc.

I'm also looking at adding a rechargeable battery so it can work stand alone (probably not the charger with the size of battery I have in mind)

The charging circuit I bought online came with a receiver as well, I'm going to pick up a toy train and fit it with the receiver and some lights to put on the base when not charging my phone.

Please let me know if you make one, happy travels