Design Your Very Own Watch

Hello, I'm Johan Link, a Swiss architecture student.

During my travels over the past few years, I've often been asked why, as a Swiss resident, I wasn't wearing a watch. This inspired me to design and create my own watch to avoid having that conversation ever again, haha.

All jokes aside, I have a deep passion for design and have always dreamed of wearing something I created myself. I dedicated almost a year to this project, from the initial sketches to the final product, with a few breaks to work on other exciting projects.

If you fall in love with my design during the tutorial and would like one of your own, feel free to join the waiting list at watch.johanlink.ch. If there’s enough interest, I'll do my best to start a small production run.

The supply will obviously depend on your design, but as a reference, here is the list of materials I used for my design in this Instructable:

• Custom CNC Case
• Custom CNC Cap
• Custom CNC Crown
• Custom CNC Strap clasp - lever
• Custom CNC Strap clasp - ring
• Custom CNC Dial
• Front glass
• Front gasket
• Back glass
• Back gasket
• Crown joint
• Cap joint
• NH-35 Seiko Movement
• Crown stem
• Hands (hours, minutes, seconds)
• Custom movement support - 3D printed
• Custom straps - 3D printed
• 4X Straps spring bars

The first step is the most exciting, in my opinion. Begin with a blank piece of paper and let your creativity flow as you sketch all kinds of innovative ideas. Spend hours refining one of them into the best possible design. This stage is crucial because you need to consider every single part and how they will be assembled and interact with each other.

When sketching, think about the overall aesthetics of the watch as well as its functionality. Consider the proportions, the balance between the watch face and the strap, and how the watch will sit on the wrist. Pay attention to the details such as the shape of the case, the style of the hands, and the design of the dial.

I chose to keep my design relatively simple since this was my first attempt at making a watch. I aimed to maximize my chances of success by opting for straightforward components that would be easier to manufacture later. Simplicity in design does not mean compromising on style or quality. It involves making thoughtful decisions about which elements are essential and focusing on perfecting those.

As you sketch, think about the materials you want to use and how they will affect the design. For example, if you plan to use stainless steel for the case, consider its weight and how it will impact the wearer’s comfort. If you’re thinking about using a leather strap, sketch different stitching patterns and how the strap attaches to the case.

Remember, this is just the beginning of a fascinating journey from an idea to a tangible product. Take your time, enjoy the process, and don’t be afraid to iterate on your designs. Each sketch brings you one step closer to your dream watch.

Once you are satisfied with your sketches, the next step is to digitize them by importing them into your computer. For this process, I chose to use Fusion 360 because I am familiar with the software and find it particularly well-suited for this type of project.

Begin by creating a new project in Fusion 360 and upload your sketches as reference images. This will serve as a guide for your digital modeling.

Start by modeling each individual part of the watch. There is no secret formula here; precision is key. Each component needs to be modeled accurately, taking into account dimensions and how they will fit together. If possible, model the parts parametrically. This means defining relationships between different dimensions and components, which will allow for easy adjustments and modifications later on.

For instance, ensure that the watch case, dial, and movement holder are designed to fit together seamlessly. Pay attention to tolerances and clearances, especially for moving parts. Consider the assembly process and how each piece will be put together.

During this stage, it’s also important to think about the materials you plan to use and how they might affect the design.

Take your time with this step, as a well-thought-out digital model will save you a lot of trouble when it comes to manufacturing and assembling the physical watch. After completing the initial model, review each part carefully and make any necessary adjustments. This iterative process of refining your design will help ensure that the final product meets your expectations and functions as intended.

Before paying a factory to CNC your parts in the final material, I strongly recommend 3D-printing prototypes of both your case and straps. Using a resin 3D printer will give you precise results, typically accurate enough to assemble all other components, like the movement and glass/gasket, into the case.

Prototyping helps identify any design flaws or issues that might not be apparent in the digital model. It allows you to verify dimensions and check the fit of the watch on your wrist. You can also test the assembly process and the ergonomics of the strap.

This step is crucial for ensuring the final product is comfortable, functional, and aesthetically pleasing. By refining your design based on the prototype, you increase the chances of a successful final product when you move on to CNC machining.

Things are getting serious now. Your plastic prototype is complete, and you're ready to move on to the final product. Finding a reliable manufacturer precise enough to CNC a watch can be challenging, especially after encountering several disappointing experiences with cheap factories. However, after thorough research, I discovered At-machining service, which met my requirements for precision and quality.

Preparing the necessary documents for the manufacturer took some time, especially since I had no prior experience with CNC machining. Unlike with 3D printing services, where you typically only need to provide 3D files, CNC machining requires additional documentation. This includes detailed 2D drawings of all parts, providing essential information such as tolerances, dimensions, threads, material specifications, surface treatments, and any additional comments or instructions.

Creating these drawings was a learning process for me, but it's a crucial step to ensure the manufacturer understands exactly what you need and can deliver the desired results. Taking the time to provide comprehensive documentation upfront can help prevent misunderstandings and ensure a smoother manufacturing process.

Leave the manufacturing to the experts and take a coffee break

For this particular design, I made the unconventional decision to 3D print the straps. I was eager to explore new possibilities and experiment with technology in a creative way. Opting for TPE material and utilizing SLS (Selective Laser Sintering) technology allowed me to achieve precise results without visible layering on the final part.

The choice of TPE material offers a unique advantage in its soft texture, providing exceptional comfort when worn. This was a key consideration for me, as I wanted the watch to be not only aesthetically pleasing but also practical and comfortable for everyday wear.

By embracing innovative techniques and materials, I aimed to push the boundaries of traditional watch design and create a product that offers both style and functionality. This experimentation not only adds a distinctive touch to the final design but also opens up new avenues for exploration and innovation in the field of watchmaking.

This step can be the most stressful, as it quickly reveals whether everything fits together or not. However, it's also the most satisfying when everything goes smoothly.

For this watch, the watch glass is pressed into the case along with its gasket. To accomplish this, I needed to 3D print a custom tool to ensure that the glass and case remained properly aligned during the assembly process.

Now, you can delicately place the dial onto the movement and proceed to assemble the hands. Take your time with this step to ensure precision and avoid damaging any components. Assembling the hands requires patience and attention to detail to align them correctly and securely onto the movement. Once assembled, gently test the movement to ensure the hands move smoothly and accurately indicate the time.

Gently slide the movement into the case, ensuring it fits snugly within its designated space. Follow this by adding the movement support, which helps stabilize the movement within the case. Once the movement support is in place, carefully attach the cap joint.

First, screw the movement stem onto the crown, ensuring it is securely attached. Then, carefully slide the crown and stem assembly through the case, positioning it correctly to fit into the movement. This step requires precision to ensure that the crown operates smoothly and that it properly engages with the movement. Take your time to align everything correctly, as the smooth functioning of the watch depends on the accuracy of this assembly.

We're nearing completion—now it's time to close the case.

This step is relatively straightforward. Start by inserting the spring bars into the straps and clasps. Ensure they are securely in place before proceeding to assemble them as demonstrated in the accompanying images.

Once the spring bars are correctly inserted, align the holes in the straps with the corresponding lugs on the watch case. Carefully slide the straps into position, making sure they fit snugly against the case. Use gentle pressure to ensure the spring bars engage with the lugs, holding the straps securely in place.

Let me know in the comments what you think of this design. If you’re interested in getting a watch, please join the waiting list at watch.johanlink.ch. If there’s enough interest, I will do my best to manufacture a small batch of this design. Your support means a lot to me, and I really appreciate it !