DOUBLE BARREL ZOMBIE KILLER

by graydog111 in Living > Toys & Games

2014 Views, 19 Favorites, 0 Comments

DOUBLE BARREL ZOMBIE KILLER

54c041362f7cc695f700003c.jpeg

This rubber band Double Barrel Zomble Killer gun is the perfect gift for a 8 to 12 year old boy or tomboy.

The object was to make a light hearted fun toy loosely relating to the TV show "The Walking Dead".

It took about 2 hour to get it made except for painting it. Spraying on one coat , then masking it for the darker color and spraying it took another hour, mostly because of the masking. Waiting for the paint to dry took another 8 hours total. Let's get started……

MATERIALS & TOOLS

54bf605c2f7cc61bc4000004.jpeg
54bf62652f7cc6c30400002d.jpeg
54c172392f7cc60d38000007.jpeg
Saws Used#2.jpg
Tools Used.jpg
Pait4.jpg
IMG_0846.JPG

1 - 2X4 18 to 20" long

2 - 15" x 3/4" pieces of PVC schedule 40 pipe, (sch 40 is thicker than the 200 psi pipe)

1 - 4" x 3/4" pieces of PVC schedule 40 pipe,

Silicone adhesive, paint, masking tape,

Square, pencil, steel tape, air or electric sanders, hole saws, drills, drill bits,

Belt sander, milling machine, and some of the specialized tools are nice, but not necessary.

CUTTING OUT THE GUNSTOCK

Materials Used.jpg
Cir Saw Stock.jpg
SaberCut Stock1.jpg
SaberCut Stock .jpg

I cut the 2x4 into a gun stock using a hand held circular saw and cut the corner where the 2 straight cuts met with a saber saw. Be very careful with all power saws, especially hand held circular saws. If you see a finger laying on the floor, it's probably yours. Just kidding......but be VERY careful, power saw blades can hang up and jump.

DRILL FINGER HOLE IN STOCK

Hole Saw, Air Drill.jpg
Cut Thumb Hole.jpg
54bda8fd2f7cc6fb8000004d.jpeg

I drilled a 1" finger hole with a hole saw to offer a more secure hand grip and add a little character to the "Double Barrel Zombie Killer". I was going to use the air electric drill, but I used the milling machine to get better alignment and drill a straighter hole. A hand held drill would have done fine.

SAND STOCK & MOUNT BARRELS

Router.Barrel.Groove.jpg

The next step was to sand the edges of stock and sand the flat areas smooth. I cut channels with the milling machine to hold the barrels straight and secure.

PREPARE BARRELS

Saw Loading Groove.jpg
File.Band.Notch.jpg

I cut the PVC barrels to length, then filed two little nocks on the ends of the barrels to hook the rubber bands on to shoot them. It was necessary to cut slits in the sides of the barrels to load the rubber bands inside the barrels. At this time, cut V's into the back end of the barrels at the ends of the slits to make loading the rubber bands easier. I didn't know that, but cut them later when I started trial shooting it. (before painting)

GLUE ON THE CLOTHESPINS

54bdadab2f7cc674da000121.jpeg
IMG_0841.jpg

Now it was time to attach the clothes pins to hold tension on the rubber bands. I glued them on with super glue. Again, I could have made an elaborate trigger mechanism, but without the clothes pins, it just wouldn't have been a Rubber Band Gun. It's in keeping with tradition, according to NRBSWCPA (National Rubber Band Shooting With Clothespins Association).

I decided to raise the clothes pins using 3/16" wood shims to center the rubber bands in the barrels. I'm now going for accuracy. My mentor, PhilB wrote an instructable on shooting flies with rubber bands. With this shotgun, you can shoot a fly and still have a second shot in reserve for one of those dastardly zombies.

MOUNTING BARRELS

Attach Barrels:Silicone.jpg

I laid down a liberal dose of "Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant" in the stock's grooves and held them in place TEMPORARILY to dry with …..you guessed it……RUBBER BANDS.

​PARACORD LOADING TOOL

IMG_0843.jpg
IMG_0844.jpg
IMG_0839.jpg
IMG_0842.jpg

The gun loads a lot easier using this paracord tool and loading from REAR TO FRONT. while holding clothespin closed tightly.

Cut an 8" length of paracord, fold back 2" of it making a finger hole by threading it through a hole in the cord. You can make the hole using and ice pick or awl. Burn the ends and use super glue to secure the union point. It is a big help when used in loading the gun.

MOUNTING FRONT HAND GRIP / RUBBER BAND STORAGE

IMG_0810.JPG
IMG_0812.jpg
Frt Handle.jpg
54bdaa112f7cc674da00011b.jpeg

I decided I needed somewhere to store the rubber bands, so I made a front hand grip that is removable with a removable plug in the end. I shortened it with the chop saw and shaped the wooden end plug with my bench belt sander. It attaches to the fore stock onto a wooden dowel epoxied into a hole cut with a hole saw.

PAINTING

Zombie Killer1.jpg
Zombie Killer2.jpg
54bf63aa2f7cc695e800014f.jpeg
Gun Paint3.jpg
Camo Paint.jpg
L Shooting4.jpg
Paint2.jpg
Router.Barrel.Groove.jpg

Now that the silicone adhesive has dried 12 hours and barrels are secure, we are ready for paint.

I bought some Rust-oleum camouflage paint in 2 colors, "sand" for the base coat and "dark forest green" for the accent coat (my first expense in building the gun). I used 2" masking tape and tore it into strips, making sure I had no straight edges. I hung it from a tree with a piece of wire down the barrel to paint it. It came out much better than I expected. That seems to be very good paint. Hey, you hunters, that Deep Forest Green is a good color for hunting in the woods. I hung this gun in a tree to paint it and while I was waiting for the paint to dry I lost it in the foliage. :)

SHOOTING "THE DOUBLE BARREL ZOMBIE KILLER"

54bf675f2f7cc61bc4000010.jpeg
Laura4.jpg
Laura2.jpg
L Shooting3.jpg
L Shooting5.jpg
Zombie Killer3.jpg
IMG_0831.JPG

This gun is amazingly accurate. I was just kidding earlier, but I can hit a 2" target at 12 feet. Hook a paper clip on the back of the rubber band and it's even better, but getting dangerous, at this point.

CAUTION: Never point a gun at anyone; loaded or unloaded. This thing can put someone's eye out.

Have fun, just don't get hurt or hurt anyone.