DIY Walnut Epoxy Dining Table

In this instructable, I show you how to build a DIY epoxy resin dining table from start to finish.

Also, I use these woodworking and epoxy techniques to build and sell furniture and art pieces to customers all over the world.

Even if you don’t need to an epoxy dining table, the DIY tips and techniques covered in this build can be directly applied to other epoxy and woodworking projects.

There are several things which are difficult to fully explain with words and images, so be sure to check out the video tutorial below.

Deep Pour Epoxy

Epoxy Drill Mixing Paddle

Pigment Powder for Epoxy

Epoxy Glow Powder

5 Gallon White Buckets

Odie’s Oil

Rubio Monocoat

Burn In Stick

Card Scraper

HEPA Vacuum

Rotex Sander

Polishing Pad

Scotch Brite Pad

Festool Domino

Router

Wood Slab Router Flattening Bit

Tuck Tape

Track Saw

Track

Bandsaw

Threaded Inserts

Furniture Glides

Drill Bit for Threaded Inserts

Drill

Large Speed Square

Parallel Clamps

F Clamps

This epoxy table project was a BIG one.

I designed and built this custom black walnut slab dining table and matching dining table bench seat for a customer in Virginia.

The walnut dining table has 2 book matched live edge rustic walnut slabs with a blue epoxy river in the middle.

In addition to the table top, I built a farmhouse trestle bottom.

The table bottom and bench disassemble to make it easier to ship and move from room to room or house to house.

Lastly, each black walnut slab for the table top is 7 feet long, 4 feet wide, and 1.75 inches thick.

In order to get a closer look at the wood grain, I sanded each live edge slab with 40 grit sandpaper using my rotex 125 sander in rotary mode on the highest speed setting.

I need to flatten the slab in a later step with my router, so this may seem like a wasted step. 

However, I feel this step helps me visualize the final look of the table. 

Plus, it doesn’t take long with my Festool Rotex Sander – maybe 15 minutes total for both pieces.

The outer bark was removed from the live edge walnut slab by my hardwood dealer. So, I only needed to clean the inner bark and loose debris.

First, I used my soft sanding pad on my rotex sander with 320 grit sandpaper to lightly sand the loose debris. The soft sanding pad works with the contours of the live edge to maintain the shape.

I used a router, flattening bit, and homemade router jig to flatten the underside of each walnut wood slab. Also, I have 2 wood slab flattening jigs (small and large) and chose to use the smaller one for this task.

My smaller wood slab flattening jig consists of 2 90 degree aluminum rails with a 2 blocks of wood on each side. The blocks of wood are about 1/4″ wider than the width of my router, which allows it to move freely across the jig.

The walnut wood slabs needed about 1/4″ taken off. As a result, I made multiple light passes of roughly 1/16″ to 1/32″ per pass.

Once I flattened the underside of each slab, I flipped them over, positioned them, and traced the perimeter with a pencil to mark the location.

Next, I covered a 4×8 sheet of MDF with tuck tape (any sheathing tape works for epoxy molds). The pencil marks remain visible under the Tuck Tape, so no worries there.

These rustic black walnut wood slabs had a few wood knots and voids. In turn, I filled the wood voids with epoxy.

I used deep pour epoxy because it penetrates the wood better than quick set epoxy. Essentially, it soaks into the wood fibers because it is thinner.

In turn, it fills the voids and soaks into the wood. While the epoxy cured, I sealed the wood slabs with silicone around the entire perimeter.

First, I used 3 buckets to measure and mix the epoxy resin. Chill deep pour epoxy requires a 2:1 mixing ratio: 2 parts A to 1 part B.

I find it easier to accurately measure and mix epoxy with a bucket for part A, part B, and one bucket for mixing both parts.

Next, I measured 2 parts A using the small containers and poured it into the large bucket. Then, I measured 1 part B using the small container and poured it into the large bucket.

I poured part A and part B into the mixing bucket. Once I poured part A and part B in the same bucket, I used a mixing paddle to mix the epoxy until it turned clear.

After the epoxy turned clear, I added 2 shades of blue pigment powder. 

I used Caribbean Blue and Blue Green pigment colors. To get the proper color, I add a small amount of pigment powder, mix thoroughly, and repeat if needed. Next, I added blue glow powder and mixed thoroughly.

First, I created a resin calculator to accurately determine the amount needed for any project.

Complete the form below and I’ll email you a link to download it. The first epoxy pour filled 1″ of the wood slab epoxy dining table. My customer requested the live edge remain visible.

So, 1 colored pour followed by a clear pour satisfied this requirement.

Once the bottom layer partially cured, I mixed and poured a clear epoxy top layer.

Also, I use the thumbprint test to determine when to pour a second layer of epoxy. The epoxy is partially cured and ready for the second layer if I can leave a thumbprint without the epoxy sticking to my finger.

Next, I used a mini torch to remove the bubbles.

Before I left my workshop, I tested the glowing river. The glow powder in the walnut slab epoxy dining table charged from my shop lights and illuminated when I turned off the lights.

Once the epoxy fully cured over a period of 7 days, I removed the epoxy mold.

I like to keep the top layer of epoxy just below the top edge of the table top. Essentially, this allows me to only flatten a small amount of wood & epoxy to get a flat table top.

So, I used my large wood slab flattening jig with my router to flatten the epoxy dining table top as I normally do. I used the same process to flatten epoxy wood tables with my router as I covered in the previous section.

I find it easier to sand the wood from 40 grit up to 220 grit while avoiding the epoxy. After sanding the wood, I sand the epoxy with 120 grit and finish at 320 grit.

My technique prevents swirl marks and pigtails from forming. I wiped the table with a damp towel to remove the dust.

While this process takes time, I don’t have to deal with burn marks, swirls, or pigtails in the epoxy.

After I completely sanded the table, I used my track saw and track to square both ends of the table.

Once I wiped the table with a damp rag, I noticed there were tiny holes in a few knots from air bubbles. Instead of mixing and pouring epoxy for these tiny holes, I used a burn-in stick (walnut color) to fill the holes.

Next, I used my card scraper to remove the excess.

I normally don’t finish the underside of my table tops. However, I decided to use Odie’s Oil on the underside of this table. Odie’s Oil is a great epoxy wood table finish that gets better with age.

First, I stirred the jar and placed a small amount on the walnut slab epoxy table. Next, I used my rotex sander in rotary mode, polishing pad, and sheepskin pad to apply the finish.

I allowed it to sit for 45 minutes and removed the excess with a terry towel.

I chose to apply Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2c on this epoxy wood table top.

First, I mixed rubio monocoat oil plus 2c and poured it on the wood slab dining table. Next, I used a plastic spreader to spread the material from the middle of the table out towards the sides and edges.

Then, I used a towel to wipe the excess. I used my rotex sander in rotary mode with a soft pad to buff off the remaining material.

I designed the table bottom so that it disassembles to make it easier to move around or ship. The dining table bottom has 3 pieces: 2 ends and middle.

First, I used half lap joinery to connect the trestle table bottom pieces together. To accurately cut the trestle table bottom cross supports, I used f-clamps to hold the supports in place to mark a cut line.

Next, I used my bandsaw and hand sander to cut the correct angle and sand it smooth. Then, I used my festool domino to attach the trestle table cross supports to the table bottom.

I glued and clamped them together and allowed it to dry. Lastly, I used Rubio Monocoat to finish the trestle dining table bottom.

Stay tuned for my next instructable on making the dining table bench shown in this project.

I hope this instructable provided you with value. Please feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions - I'm happy to help.

Be sure to checkout my YouTube channel and my website for more DIY tutorials.