DIY Soldering Station for HAKKO 907
by flv1991 in Circuits > Soldering
56366 Views, 95 Favorites, 0 Comments
DIY Soldering Station for HAKKO 907
![IMG_20150212_170205.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FHJ/BY47/I63EW2Z8/FHJBY47I63EW2Z8.jpg&filename=IMG_20150212_170205.jpg)
![IMG_20150212_170857.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FQE/V4NK/I63EWN5H/FQEV4NKI63EWN5H.jpg&filename=IMG_20150212_170857.jpg)
I am presenting a project that I duplicated of a very skilled guy, a welding station using a soldering iron HAKKO 907.
Is a very inexpensive project to do. I spent little money to do this project. To have a comparison, I spent to make this project was about the money I give for a simple iron (not station)
Materials
![IMG_20140915_103601.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FJM/SVC5/I63EW2UU/FJMSVC5I63EW2UU.jpg&filename=IMG_20140915_103601.jpg)
You will see how this is relatively cheap
1- Iron Hakko 907 (you can find easily on ebay, replicas work well)
2 - Power Supply 24V (more current power supply has, the faster will be the iron with achieving the desired temperature)
3- ATMEGA8A-PU
4- IRF1310 (or similar)
5- Prototype PCB
6- 3xDisplay 7segment
7- 3xSwitch
8- LM358
9- Buzzer
10- Diode (4007)
11- Some resistors
Schematic and Firmware
![1bc7b21a9799c05a6718bfbe43f991bd.gif](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FXQ/491Y/I63EW2UJ/FXQ491YI63EW2UJ.gif&filename=1bc7b21a9799c05a6718bfbe43f991bd.gif)
Like I said, I duplicated this project. It was not made by me, I make available everything that I used.
Mounting the Circuit
![IMG_20140917_094107.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FDV/S4US/I63EW31L/FDVS4USI63EW31L.jpg&filename=IMG_20140917_094107.jpg)
![IMG_20140920_094329.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FV5/CU70/I63EW2YH/FV5CU70I63EW2YH.jpg&filename=IMG_20140920_094329.jpg)
![IMG_20140920_094325.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FYN/QSPJ/I63EW2W7/FYNQSPJI63EW2W7.jpg&filename=IMG_20140920_094325.jpg)
I chose to mount the circuit in breadboard to study the operation only after I moved to mount a pcb prototype.
One advantage is that I set up the pcb prototype already with iron Hakko
I have been studying the operation of the heating temperature. and made various calibrations (200, 250, 300 and 400 degrees celsius)
Calibration is done with the help of a potentiometer.
but I after mounting all the pcb had to make a new calibration
The Box
![IMG_20140917_213511.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/F0I/MT2R/I63EWFKD/F0IMT2RI63EWFKD.jpg&filename=IMG_20140917_213511.jpg)
![IMG_20140918_122909.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FPK/GJFL/I63EWFL7/FPKGJFLI63EWFL7.jpg&filename=IMG_20140918_122909.jpg)
![IMG_20140918_122912.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FZ5/28IR/I63EWFL8/FZ528IRI63EWFL8.jpg&filename=IMG_20140918_122912.jpg)
![IMG_20140918_125711.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FAO/B4ZX/I63EWFM2/FAOB4ZXI63EWFM2.jpg&filename=IMG_20140918_125711.jpg)
I got a small box and adapted it. The box is made by aluminum and plastic (front and rear)
At the front did a slot to put the 7-segment display also put the potentiometer (blue), and finally a switch on / off. Later put a record the Hakko iron, plug and play.
Power Supply
![get_thumbnail.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FUV/5TXY/I63EWJ21/FUV5TXYI63EWJ21.jpg&filename=get_thumbnail.jpg)
As I said, the power supply must be 24V. I used a 24V / 4.2A.
You can use a charger of a laptop, but I do not advise. It is very slow to with achieving the desired temperature. Moreover can not reach 400 ° C.
Conclusion
![IMG_20140911_184022.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FLV/0AHD/I63EW2UQ/FLV0AHDI63EW2UQ.jpg&filename=IMG_20140911_184022.jpg)
![IMG_20150212_170857.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/F1Z/DJOV/I63EW310/F1ZDJOVI63EW310.jpg&filename=IMG_20150212_170857.jpg)
![IMG_20150212_170205.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FHJ/BY47/I63EW2Z8/FHJBY47I63EW2Z8.jpg&filename=IMG_20150212_170205.jpg)
![IMG_20150212_170215.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/F5Z/AHI2/I63EW2ZS/F5ZAHI2I63EW2ZS.jpg&filename=IMG_20150212_170215.jpg)
![IMG_20150212_170222.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FOB/4RFX/I63EW30D/FOB4RFXI63EW30D.jpg&filename=IMG_20150212_170222.jpg)
![IMG_20150212_170243.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FE3/WXC5/I63EW30T/FE3WXC5I63EW30T.jpg&filename=IMG_20150212_170243.jpg)
I have to say it's best soldering iron I've ever had.
The iron itself is cheap, about 5 €, I bought a few more tips that cost about € 5 the power supply already had at home. The rest of the components I not spent more than 5 €.
What would change:
It was a bigger box, so could put the power supply and control all together.
change the wire soldering iron. I found it a bit hard. Change to a more malleable.
For the rest think is optimal.
The maximum I could with this power supply was 480 degrees, not bad.
Source :http://www.itstyle.kr/10635