DIY Picture Frame Molding Accent Wall

If you want to give a room some “spice” without going too crazy design wise, making a big mess, or breaking the bank, this is a great project for you! Picture frame molding is a classic design element that can transform a plain wall into something spectacular.

Time: 1 day

Cost: $100-300

Installation Methods - Choose the method that best fits your needs:

1. Professional Method - Brad Nailer
2. 1-in 18-Gauge Brad nails
3. Brad Nailer
4. Battery
5. This method provides the strongest, most professional finish. While initially more expensive, it ensures your trim stays securely fastened for years to come.
6. Budget-Friendly Method - Glue
7. Construction adhesive
8. Perfect for renters or temporary installations. While not as secure as nailing, quality adhesive can still provide reliable results when properly applied.

Required Tools:

1. Miter Snips (for precise 45-degree angle cuts)
2. Chair Rail Moulding*
3. Painter's tape - to hold up moulding or map out measurements
4. Pencil
5. Measuring Tape
6. Yard Stick
7. Paint & Paintbrush

Optional (but recommended) Tools:

These tools make the difference between a good installation and a professional-looking one:

1. Spackling or putty (for filling nail holes or moulding imperfections)
2. Sandpaper (80 grit)
3. Putty knife

*Note on Moulding Quantity: Calculate your total wall length and add 10% for mistakes. Each standard piece typically covers 8 feet. For reference, my project required 10 pieces, but your needs will vary based on room size.

Pro Tip: Don't skip the finishing tools if using the brad nailer method. Those small nail holes will be visible unless properly filled and painted.

1. Take time to properly plan your wall design. Picture frame molding looks best with an odd number of boxes, although you can customize what kind of proportion or sizing you want for each box.
2. Plan for anywhere between 5-7 inches of space between boxes and from walls/baseboards, you’ll want to keep this measurement the same throughout.
3. And lastly, pick a good podcast or playlist to keep you company as you knock out this project.

1. Paint your entire wall with your chosen color before installing any molding.
2. I am keeping my trim the same color as the wall so I was able to skip this step, but if you are changing colors than what is currently being used this makes the painting process much easier later.

1. Once the paint is dry, start by measuring your entire wall and drawing out your design on paper. Measure from the top of the baseboards to the ceiling. (For example: my total dimensions ended up being 91" x 132".)
2. Calculate your box dimensions carefully. I chose to keep 6" in between my boxes and any walls. Make sure to note any outlets or vents that might interfere with your design. I have my measurements located here in this diagram.

1. Start from the center of your wall and work outward:
2. Make light pencil marks at your measured points from the last step
3. Connect these marks using your yard stick as a straight edge
4. Double-check each measurement against your paper plan
5. Use painter's tape to create visible lines if you prefer (easier to adjust than pencil)
6. For each line you draw or tape:
7. Place your level against the line
8. Watch the bubble carefully - it must sit exactly between the guide marks
9. Adjust your lines if needed until they're perfectly level

Pro Tips:

1. Use light pencil marks initially - they're easier to erase if needed
2. Take photos of your layout - they often reveal alignment issues you might miss in person
3. Consider living with your taped layout for 24 hours before cutting any trim - sometimes proportion issues become more apparent over time

1. Take your measurement from the outside edges of where your boxes will meet on the wall. Using a pencil, make a clear mark on your trim piece where the cut needs to be made. (Image #1)

1. Set your miter snips to a 45-degree angle (Image #1).
2. We will always have a 45-degree angle so keep that in mind when cutting. (Image #2)

1. Start with a single test piece of trim to verify your measurements before cutting all your material. This test piece will help you avoid costly mistakes and ensure your angles line up perfectly on the wall.
2. When placing the trim in your miter snips, make sure the thicker edge (the part that protrudes the most) faces inward toward the fence. This positioning is crucial for achieving clean angles that will match up seamlessly. (Image #1)
3. Place your marked trim against the miter saw fence, aligning your pencil mark exactly with the blade at the 0-degree point. Set your snips to 45 degrees, and make your cut. (Image #2)
4. Tip: Always keep the trim firmly pressed against the guide or fence while cutting. Any wobble or gap between the trim and the fence will result in an imperfect angle. (Image #2)
5. Remember: It's better to take extra time measuring and cutting than to waste material with rushed cuts.

1. I taped pieces up as I cut and went along to stay organized and to make sure the pieces go where you want them.

Method A: Using a Brad Nailer

1. Position Your Trim
2. Place each piece exactly on your marked lines
3. Use your level to confirm it's perfectly straight (Image #1)
4. Hold firmly in place or use painter's tape to assist holing it up
5. Double-check your 45-degree corners align properly
6. Nail Placement
7. Use 2-3 nails per trim piece (more for longer pieces)
8. Space nails evenly along the length
9. Always nail through the thicker, outer portion of the trim (Image #2)
10. Avoid nailing too close to edges or corners to prevent splitting
11. Proper Nailing Technique
12. Position nailer flat against the trim
13. Wait for the guide light to activate
14. Apply firm, steady pressure
15. Squeeze trigger smoothly
16. Hold nailer in place briefly after firing

Method B: Using Construction Adhesive

1. Adhesive Application
2. Apply adhesive in a continuous zigzag pattern
3. Keep pattern about 1/4 inch from edges
4. Ensure consistent bead thickness
5. Cover 80% of trim's back surface
6. Securing the Trim
7. Press trim firmly against wall
8. Apply even pressure along entire length
9. Secure with painter's tape every 12 inches
10. Leave tape in place for at least 24 hours

Pro Tips:

1. Keep your level handy - check each piece multiple times during installation
2. If a nail splits the trim, don't remove it - use wood filler or putty or spackling later to repair
3. When using adhesive, keep a damp rag nearby to wipe away any excess adhesive immediately

1. Fill Nail Holes and Imperfections
2. Allow adhesive or nails to fully set (at least 24 hours)
3. Use lightweight spackling compound or wood putty
4. Apply with a small putty knife using a smooth, sweeping motion
5. For tiny holes, you can use your finger to apply and smooth the compound
6. Address Corner Gaps
7. Inspect all corners and joints for small gaps
8. Fill any imperfections with spackling compound
9. Use your putty knife to press compound fully into gaps
10. Smooth the surface, feathering edges outward
11. Don't worry about being perfect - paint will hide minor flaws
12. Sand for Smoothness
13. Wait until spackling is completely dry (usually 2-4 hours)
14. Use fine-grit sandpaper (80 grit works well) and sand with light, circular motions
15. Feel the surface with your fingers to check for smoothness
16. Wipe away dust with a slightly damp cloth

1. Finally, apply two coats of your chosen paint to all trim pieces to ensure a cohesive look and then enjoy your beautiful accent wall! :)

1. Take photos of your progress. Not only is it satisfying to see the transformation, but it helps if you need to recreate the design in another room.
2. If using a brad nailer, charge the battery before you start cutting. Nothing kills momentum like a dead battery halfway through.
3. Keep a damp cloth handy to wipe away pencil marks as you go.