DIY Kinetic Chandelier

This tutorial will show you how to make a kinetic crystal chandelier!

Crystal chandeliers are beautiful by themselves. By adding movement to the crystals, they create a magnificent light field that people of all ages can enjoy! We have always been interested in lights, colors and movement, so we thought we'd combine them. This build is designed for more experienced fabricators, and if you decide to take on this build, we hope you enjoy making your own kinetic chandelier!

Parts you'll need:

1- 3D files- http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1735532

2- 3D printer accessability

3- 3D printer filament

4- 1 worm gear motor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/222192694768?lpid=82&...

5- 2x 1/4" clamping hub mounts: https://www.servocity.com/770-clamping-hubs

6- 1x 1 1/4" steel or aluminum d shaft (roughly 1.5")

7- 1 pc 3/4" wood (24"x24")

8- roughly 10-15 1" wood screws

9- wood glue

10- 2 part 5 minute epoxy (or glue of choice)

11- a handful of 6/32 1/2" machine screws

12- 4' 3/4" aluminum square tubing

13- 11' of bicycle break cable (only housing, no cable needed)

14- 25-50' fishing line

15- 13 crystals: http://www.dhgate.com/store/product/30mm-clear-aaa...

Tools list:

-Pliers

-Hot glue gun

-3D printer

-Cordless drill (3/16" drill bit) and driver

-Drill press (optional)

-SAE allen key set

-Chop saw

-Miter saw

-Wood clamps or vice grip

-Hack saw

-Measuring tape

-Pencil

-countersink

1-Download the files for 3D printing here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1735532

(you'll need to combine 1 of the Hub Mount files and 12 spokes)

2-print the spokes, organize them in groups of two.

3-Set down some paper so you don't dirty the work space, because you will be using epoxy.

4-Once the spokes are set aside in groups of two, mix the epoxy.

5-Dab the epoxy on the flat backside of each spoke (the flat side with the hollow square hole in it).

6- connect the second spoke (with extruded square). Friction fit the second spoke into the hollow square of the first spoke. This will offset the second spoke by 30 degrees.

NOTE: If the pieces have a difficult time fitting, I found that using a vice grip or wood clamp helps set them into their desired position.

7-Use a 1/8" diameter rod or whatever is close or available and slide them through the small hole at the bottom of each spoke (this is optional but it helps center the pieces more precisely).

8-clamp the pair of spokes together as seen in the photo above for as long as the cure time takes (I used 2 part 5 minute epoxy).

9-After the glue has dried, Repeat this process with the 5 remaining pairs of spokes, excluding the hub mounts.

10-After the (6 pairs) have set, epoxy each pair to another, using the same method as before, ending up 3 groups of spokes, with 4 spokes in each group. Then glue each group together until you have 1 spiral containing 12 pieces.

11-Then add one hub mount to either end of the spiral and attach the clamping hub mounts to either side.

Set the crankshaft aside, and move to step two... Making the box!

Take 3/4" wood piece and cut it.

2 pcs: roughly 5"x5"

2pcs: roughly 5"x12"

Miter saw 45 degree cuts on 2 opposite sides of the 5"x5" pieces

Miter saw 45 degree cuts on 2 opposite corners lengthwise of the 5x12" pieces

Drill a 1/4" hole in the center of 1 of the 5"x5" pieces

Join the pieces together to create a frame for the crankshaft

Take the motor and fit it to one of the the clamping hub mounts using a 3/32" allen key.

1-Using 4 6/32 x 1/2" machine screws, connect the motor w/clamping hub to the hub mount to one end of the crankshaft (either end will do).

2-Connect the other clamping hub to the other end.

3-Place the motor and crankshaft into the housing and slide in the 1/4" rod through the hole in the wood to create a an axle for the crankshaft.

4-Use a hot glue gun to secure the motor and crankshaft to the housing, use your eye to make sure the axle is centered.

5- Use a pencil and make a dash directly below each spoke connector on one long panel which comprises the housing (this is where the fishing line passes through the box).

5- Unscrew the dashed panel piece and remove.

6- Use a drill press and 3/16" bit to bore out holes where the dashes were made, making sure you keep it centered.

7- Replace the panel on the housing.

1- Cut two pieces of 3/4" thick wood to 2"x13".

2-miter a 50 degree inward cut on one end of each piece.

3- miter a 40 degree inward cut on the other end of each piece.

4- the 50 degree side of each wood piece will be connected to the box.

5- cut 3/4 " aluminum tubing to 22" length and miter each side at a 40 degree inward cut (this will fit nicely with the wood).

6- Using a pencil, mark thirteen dashes on the aluminum tubing, 1.75" apart from each other.

7Use drillpress to bore out.

8- fit the three pieces together and loosely fit to the box.

9- once the pieces are to your liking,

10- use wood screws to fasten the 50 degree side of the wood to either side of the box, in the center.

11- fit the aluminum to the frame extension and fasten them together.

DONE!

1- Cut the bike cable with a cable cutter to the rough length of each corresponding hole. In my case it was roughly 8" cable lengths in the center and 13" lengths on the sides

2- Insert the cable into the crankshaft housing first, then thread the cable through the aluminum, then trim the cable further if needed.

Use the fishing lure and feed it through the bottom of the aluminum until it passes through the crankshaft housing,

loosely tie the fishing line around each spoke hub.

-Connect some LED's if you want and power up the motor with a power supply between 3 and 12 Volts and you're ready to go!