DIY International Space Station Tracker!

Are you obsessed with space? Do you need a high-tech room decoration? Maybe you just like neat lamps. Then this project is for you!

First of all, watch this video about the physical international space station tracker to get a good idea of what we're making. The guy in the video is me, btw :)

This project uses a small ESP-32 devboard and 2 servos to move a model of the International Space Station (ISS) around the globe. It contacts the Open Notify API via a Wi-Fi connection, and updates the ISS location every 15 seconds. I made the project with a lid on top of the base that also acts as a touch lamp, but the project is just as functional (and looks just as cool) without the lid! If you choose to not make the lid, just follow all instructions and ignore the ones that reference the lid.

To make this, you will need an intermediate understanding of microcontrollers, through-hole PCB soldering, and 3D printing.

Lastly, if you enjoy this project, feel free to support me on Patreon. I really enjoy making these projects and my videos, and my patrons make that possible. Let's get started!

This is a pretty involved project with a lot of random supplies. Links are provided for most of them.

Electronics

1. ESP32 Devboard
2. IRF520N Transistor
3. 100µF capacitor
4. 3 White LED's and 1 Red LED
5. 2 2-Gang Terminal Blocks
6. Headers (male-male and recommended male-female for ESP swapability)
7. Buttons with a 2-pin footprint
8. 2 Servos (not sure on the exact sizing, but these are much larger than the typical 9g)
9. 2 10 ohm resistors and 1 1K ohm resistor
10. Jumper wire
11. Copper Tape

Everything Else

1. 2 608RS bearings
2. White and Black PLA
3. Any 5V/2A power supply, I got mine from Goodwill. Can be more than 2A, has to be 5V
4. 2 Short M3 Inset Screws (around 5 mm long) (Ace hardware is good for getting these)
5. 7 M4 Bolts, at least 8 mm, and matching nuts
6. 4 small wood screws, I used #4 x 1/4"
7. Solid core wire
8. 3 brass rods that are 1/4" x 4"
9. 1 metal rod that is 1/4" x 7 3/8"
10. 2 magnets, 1/2" x 3/16" cylinders

Globe

I used this globe from target, and it is 4 inches in radius. Any hollow globe of similar size should work. Please let me know if this link breaks.

Tools

Aside from basic electronic tools (including a soldering iron), you'll need a 2 1/8" hole saw drill bit and a 1/8" drill bit.

Code File

Use this GitHub repository for the code! It also contains viewable 3D printing files, PCB manufacturing files, and Prusa project files.

All of the parts can be found in the supporting files below, and on this GitHub repository.

All of the parts are printed with a 0.15mm layer height out of PLA.

Most of the parts are designed to be printed without supports, with the exception of the Latitude Arm, Bottom Cap, and Latitude Servo Holder. The Bottom Cap is the hardest piece to print. I printed it with the 4 prongs facing down and turned on automatic supports.

For printing the magnet pieces (ISSBase and insideMagnet), you will need to set a pause in the middle of the print to put in the magnet. Make sure that you place the magnets in an orientation that makes them attract to each other, as opposed to repel!

Piece Descriptions:

1. The base is the bottom piece, where all of the electronics are
2. The baseLid goes on top of the base, to cover the electronics and to act as a lamp
3. The bearingAdapter goes inside the 608RS bearings to adapt to the metal rod
4. The bottomCap goes above the base lid (attached with brass rods) to hold up the globe
5. The insideMagnet goes inside the latitude arm and attracts to the ISSBase magnet
6. The ISSBase holds the ISS above it and contains a magnet
7. The ISSCenter and ISSSide(s) make up the model ISS
8. The latitudeArm attaches to the latitude servo, and holds the insideMagnet
9. The latitudeServoHolder goes on top of the longitude rod (center rod) and holds the latitude servo
10. Spur gears 12 and 22 go in the base. Gear 22 is attached to the longitude servo in the base, and it drives gear 22 which is attached to the center rod

P.S: If you have a Prusa MINI/+, I use the same kind of printer, and the Prusa project files (.3mf) are attached!

The KiCad file is attached in the GitHub repository for this project. Putting this board together should be relatively straightforward! The components are labeled on the board with a silkscreen, so make sure to order your PCB with a silkscreen. I would recommend using female-male headers for the devboard spot, because that way you can replace it if something goes wrong, and you can easily remove it from the final product for reprogramming.

Don't forget about the button on the back of the PCB!

Now is also a good time to program the ESP-32, because it is not easy to fit the USB-C cable in for programming when the tracker is fully put together. You will need to put in your Wi-Fi SSID and Password in the arduino program before uploading.

You will also need a power supply for the board. The board will take any 5v input, and the power supply will need to give at least 2 amps. I buy all of my power supplies from goodwill, so I don't have a specific link I can give.

Honestly, this step is VERY complicated and you will need to watch my video to even comprehend how to do this. Watch this section of the video to see how I made the model. And I swear I'm not even linking it for engagement or views or anything. This step is just that complicated. I don't make the rules.

After making the model itself, cut off a piece of paper clip, and super glue that to the base and ISS model.

Also, it is a good idea to hot glue a piece of fabric onto the bottom of the ISS base, so that it does not mark the globe when it moves.

(You can skip this if you're not making the lid)

The LED's that make up the lamp on the lid should be in parallel. The model includes grooves to hold the wires that power these LED's. Solder the lights in series, and hot glue the wires in place so that they don't move or short-circuit. Leave two prongs of wire on one corner, so that you can later connect the wires that attach the lights to the PCB.

Okay, I have good news and bad news about this step. The bad news is that it's pretty hard and you'll probably crack the globe. The good news is that you're only messing with the bottom of the globe so any cracks won't be that noticeable!

First, cut the globe off of the stand that it comes with using a hacksaw.

Second, you'll need to cut a 2 1/8" hole directly in the bottom (south pole) with a hole saw. Then, use the bottom cap to reference where the four attachment holes need to be on the globe, and carefully drill 4 corresponding 1/4" holes. One of these holes should be in alignment with the prime meridian (0 degrees longitude) on your globe. The bottom cap should be centered over the bottom of the globe. This part is kind of frustrating, and you may need to drill slightly larger holes to get the bottom cap to fit on the globe.

There are a lot of moving pieces in the base (okay, well one moving piece, but a lot of important functional pieces). Buckle up.

1. Prepare the bearings by putting the small 3D-printed bearing adapter pieces into the center of two of the bearings (sorry, I don't have a picture for this)
2. Place the bearings into the center hole on the base, in the top and the bottom. These bearings will support the center rod.
3. Screw the longitude servo into the base using 3 nuts and 3 bolts. The bolts will go into the small shelves on the podiums (see the picture)
4. Fit the servo attachment into gear 22 that came with the servo. You can see which attachment to use by looking at the back of gear 22. Then, screw this gear onto the servo using the screw that came with the servo.
5. Screw the PCB into the base using the 4 small wood screws.
6. Solder wire onto a piece of brass tape, if using the touch lamp functionality
7. Stick the brass tape on the inside of the base
8. Plug the longitude servo and brass tape-wire into the PCB (the touch wire can be plugged into either terminal on the touch terminal)
9. Place the brass rods in the 3 extending sleeves in the base

Also, now's a good time to strip the end of your power supply wires and fit them into the base through the hole on the back. Screw these wires into the power terminals on the PCB.

Assemble the latitude assembly as shown in the picture. This is very similar to how you put the longitude servo in the base, and the gear on top of that. The longitude rod, and the latitude assembly that sits on top of it, are what work together to make the ISS move. Despite what is shown in the picture, do not assemble it on top of the rod yet. Just assemble the latitude servo to the latitude servo holder and arm.

Also, slide gear 12 onto the rod about 1.3 inches from the bottom, as shown in the picture. Screw this gear on tightly with an inset screw (but not too tight, or it will break the surrounding plastic).

Fit the pole onto the bearing in the middle of the base.

Before you put on the lid, plug in the jumper wires from the LEDS to the PCB and plug in the latitude servo's wires to the PCB. The latitude servo's wires will go through a hole in the bottom cap, and through a hole in the lid to plug into the PCB. This will all feel sort of janky until everything is put together. Place the lid on top. There are two notches on the sides of the lid the fit into the base.

Fit the bottom cap onto the 3 brass rods that are now poking out of the lid. Place the latitude servo assembly on top of the center rod, and screw that on like you did for gear 12. Put the inside magnet in the sleeve on the end of the latitude arm.

Finally, put the globe on! I find it is easiest to do this with the latitude servo at 90 degrees, so that the latitude arm is horizontal. Fit the globe around this arm first, then around the servo and rod. This will be a tight fit! Fit the globe onto the prongs in the bottom cap. Make sure the inside magnet does not fall out of the latitude arm as you are putting the globe on. Then, place your ISS model onto the magnet!

When you plug it in, you should see the red Wi-Fi LED light up for a moment as it connects to the network. If it never turns off, it is having trouble connecting to your Wi-Fi network. If it does connect, it will move the servos to the home position (90 degrees West, 0 degrees North/South).

Your home position will most likely be incorrect, so you will need to account for this by quickly unplugging the unit (within a few seconds of it homing), gently lifting the longitude rod to make it disengage with the servo, and turning it until the magnet is at 90 degrees West. Then place it down so that it re-engages with the gear and plug the unit in again. Check any ISS tracking site to see if the location is accurate! It should update about every 15 seconds.

Soooo my cats destroyed the ISS model :(

Keep the globe out of reach, I guess.

Thanks for checking out my ISS Tracker files! If you make this project yourself, or if you see any inaccuracies or improvements, put them in the comments below!

Again, consider joining my Patreon or buying any of my other 3D models!