DIY Heated Gloves

There’s nothing worse than freezing hands in the winter, especially when you’re trying to get things done outside. Whether you’re shoveling snow, biking, or just walking in the cold, regular gloves don’t always cut it. That’s why I decided to make my own heated gloves—ones that are simple, effective, and rechargeable.

This project was an awesome challenge that combined electronics, battery management, and a bit of creativity to make something both useful and fun to build. Throughout this Instructable, I’ll take you through the entire process—from planning and choosing the right components to modeling, assembling, and testing the final product. If you’ve ever wanted to make your own heated gloves, this guide will give you everything you need to get started.

By the end, you’ll not only have a pair of DIY heated gloves but also a deeper understanding of how heating elements, batteries, and circuits work together. So let’s dive in and beat the cold with some homemade warmth!

Materials

*The materials (gloves) are very broad and if you have some they most likely will work fine*

1. PLA filament
2. Thin winter gloves (knitted) (example) - $2
3. External gloves with pockets (example) - $4
4. Glue (hot glue or super glue)

Electronics

1. TP4056 charging module with protection - $1
2. MT3608 voltage booster module - $1
3. 3.7V 4000mAh LiPo Battery Rechargeable 1S 3C Lithium Polymer Battery - $12
4. Nichrome wire (heating element) - $2
5. Slide switch - $1
6. Wire - $3

Tools

1. Multimeter for measuring voltage and current
2. Soldering iron and solder for making electrical connections
3. Wire cutters and strippers
4. 3d printer
5. (Hot glue gun)

Total - $26

(Diy electric hand warmers picture above)

Background

Keeping my hands warm in cold weather has always been a challenge, especially when I need to use them actively. Inspired by my previous hand warmer project (DIY Electric Hand Warmers), I wanted a more convenient solution. The hand warmers I previously made required holding a packet, which was cumbersome and required carrying a bulky battery pack.

When shoveling snow or doing outdoor work, I found myself needing to hold the warmer to stay warm, which wasn’t practical. Traditional big gloves help retain heat but are bulky and limit dexterity, making them less useful for everyday tasks.

I soon discovered that heated gloves existed, solving all my problems—except for one major downside: cost. High-quality heated gloves are expensive, which led me to the realization that I could create my own for a fraction of the price. The concept was simple: all I needed was a power source, a heating element, and a switch.

Planning

To start, I needed to define the core requirements of my DIY heated gloves:

1. Aesthetic:
2. Look as if they were purchased, not homemade.
3. No exposed wires or bulky power units.
4. Cost Efficiency:
5. Keep costs as low as possible while maintaining effectiveness.
6. Versatility:
7. Flexibility:
8. Gloves should be thin and feel like regular gloves, not stiff or heavy.
9. Weather Resistance:
10. Usable in multiple conditions, from indoor activities to outdoor work like shoveling.
11. Lightweight:
12. Shouldn’t feel heavy or cumbersome when worn.
13. Heating:
14. Adjustable temperature control.
15. Even heat distribution across the gloves.
16. Battery Considerations:
17. Rechargeable for long-term use.
18. At least 3 hours of battery life.

Challenges and Solutions

Aesthetic & Concealment of Wires

(Credit to: kurtscottage)

Standard heated gloves tend to have visible wiring and exposed power units, making them look unattractive. I wanted to find a way to seamlessly hide the heating elements and battery pack. Initially, I considered creating custom gloves using 3D printing or silicone molding, but this was impractical. Instead, I opted for the thinnest winter gloves I could find—knitted gloves. They were cheap and thin enough to allow heat transfer effectively.

To conceal the wiring, I decided to layer an ultra-thin second glove over the first. Though technically two gloves, their combined thinness made them feel like a single unit.

Battery Selection

I initially experimented with AA batteries, but they lacked the capacity and voltage I needed. A 9V battery also fell short on power efficiency. Eventually, I settled on a 3.7V 4000mAh LiPo Battery, as it provided a good balance of portability and long runtime. The next challenge was placement. Most gloves with built-in pockets are designed for small objects like credit cards, not bulky cylindrical batteries. I chose a LiPo battery because its flat, rectangular shape fit perfectly into a glove pocket without making it feel bulky.

Charging (TP4056 Module)

To charge the LiPo battery, I used a TP4056 charging module, which is designed for Li-ion and LiPo batteries. The module has two main components:

1. Charging Circuit (TP4056 Chip) – Regulates the charging process and ensures safe voltage levels.
2. Protection Circuit (DW01A + FS8205A) – Prevents overcharging, over-discharging, and excessive current draw, making the battery safer to use.

I considered using a 2S (7.4V) battery pack to achieve higher voltage without a booster circuit, but charging multiple LiPo cells in series without a balance circuit increases the risk of overcharging, potentially leading to dangerous failures. Instead, I chose to stick with a 1S battery and use a voltage multiplier to safely reach my target voltage.

Finding the Right Heating Element

Now this is easily the most important aspect for the heated gloves. We need to know how we want them heated. If they aren’t heated correctly or don’t get hot enough, the gloves won’t work well, or at all. When designing the heating system for the gloves, I needed a material that could efficiently generate and distribute heat while remaining compact and flexible. The first option I considered was heating pads, which are commonly used in electric blankets and seat warmers. While they provide even heat distribution, they were too bulky for my design. Many heating pads are enclosed in thick insulation, making them rigid and difficult to integrate into gloves without sacrificing flexibility.

Another potential solution was carbon fiber heating elements. Carbon fiber is a great choice for heating applications because it heats up quickly, distributes heat evenly, and remains flexible. Many commercial heated gloves use carbon fiber because of these advantages. However, sourcing carbon fiber heating elements in small quantities proved to be a challenge. Most suppliers either sold them in bulk (which was expensive) or didn’t offer the exact shape and size I needed. Additionally, while carbon fiber is efficient, it can be tricky to connect electrically without the right materials and adhesives.

After considering these options, I settled on nichrome wire as the best heating element for my gloves.

What Is Nichrome Wire and Why Use It?

Nichrome (a combination of nickel and chromium) is a special type of wire that is widely used in heating applications, from toaster coils to industrial furnaces. It has a few key properties that make it ideal for heating:

1. High Electrical Resistance – Unlike copper wire, which is designed to conduct electricity with minimal resistance, nichrome wire resists the flow of electricity, causing it to heat up when current passes through it.
2. Durability – Nichrome doesn’t oxidize or degrade easily at high temperatures, which means it can be used repeatedly without losing effectiveness.
3. Even Heat Distribution – Because the entire length of the wire generates heat, it allows for consistent and controllable heating.
4. Cost-Effective – Unlike carbon fiber, nichrome wire is cheap and widely available, making it perfect for DIY projects.

For my gloves, nichrome wire was the best choice because it was thin, flexible, and easy to integrate. I could weave it into the fabric or place it in key areas to focus the heat where it was needed most. Additionally, by controlling the length and thickness of the wire, I could adjust the amount of heat produced, allowing for a customizable heating solution.

Nichrome is the same material used in things like electric stove burners, hair dryers, and hot wire foam cutters, proving its reliability in various heating applications. By using it in my gloves, I could create a safe, efficient, and cost-effective heating system without compromising flexibility or comfort.

Nichrome Wire and Heat Generation

Electricity and heat have an interesting relationship, much like rubbing your hands together on a cold day. The friction between your hands generates warmth due to resistance, just like nichrome wire.

When electricity flows through nichrome wire, its high resistance causes energy to be dissipated as heat. Think of electrical current like water flowing through a pipe filled with sand. In an ordinary wire (like copper), there is very little resistance—just like a smooth, open pipe where water flows freely. But in nichrome wire, resistance acts like sand in the pipe, slowing down the flow and forcing the energy to dissipate as heat.

Nichrome wire is ideal for heating elements because:

1. It has high electrical resistance, which generates more heat efficiently.
2. It can withstand high temperatures without breaking down.
3. It doesn’t oxidize or degrade quickly under heat.

Voltage and Heat Output

The heat output of nichrome wire depends on the voltage applied and the wire’s resistance. Using Ohm’s Law:

` V=IR

Where:

1. V - is voltage (volts),
2. I - is current (amps), and
3. R - is resistance (ohms).

Power (heat) generated can be calculated using:

P=IV

Or, substituting Ohm’s Law:

P = (V^2)/R

This means that increasing the voltage increases power (heat), but higher current also drains the battery faster.

Battery Selection (1S 3.7V 4000mAh LiPo)

A 1S battery means a single cell in series, providing 3.7V. The 3C rating means the battery can safely discharge at a rate of 3 × 4Ah = 12A maximum. Keeping current draw within safe limits (+25% tolerance) prevents overheating and extends battery lifespan.

Voltage Multiplier

Instead of using a 2S battery, I opted for a voltage multiplier circuit to step up 3.7V to the necessary 6-8V range. The reason is safety—charging multiple LiPo cells in series is riskier without balancing circuits. The trade-off is reduced efficiency, but it allows for safer charging and compact design.

Effect of Wire Length on Temperature

Wire length impacts resistance and temperature. Longer nichrome wire increases resistance, reducing current flow and heat output. Conversely, shorter wire decreases resistance, allowing more current and generating higher temperatures. The balance is crucial to avoid excessive power draw, which would drain the battery too quickly.

Series vs. Parallel Battery Configuration

Parallel connections (1P, 2P) increase capacity (runtime) while maintaining voltage. Series connections (1S, 2S) increase voltage but introduce charging complexities and safety risks. Since heating elements rely on both voltage and current, a higher voltage (series) would increase power output exponentially, making overheating a concern. Parallel configurations allow for longer battery life while maintaining safe operating conditions.

By carefully balancing voltage, resistance, and current, I ensured the gloves provide steady, efficient heating without unnecessary power loss. This setup maximizes battery life and maintains a compact, user-friendly design.

Before diving into the 3D modeling, I took a moment to review my requirements. Based on my main requirements, I set some guidelines for the actual modeling process. Here are my constraints for the 3D model:

Design Constraints:

1. Compact Size: The enclosure must be as small as possible to ensure it fits comfortably inside a glove. Larger packs are not only cumbersome but can also be aesthetically displeasing.
2. Battery Protection: The LiPo battery needs to be well-protected to prevent punctures, which could lead to fire hazards. Safety is a primary concern.
3. Ease of Battery Extraction: There should be a straightforward method to extract the battery if needed, ensuring maintenance and replacements can be done without hassle.
4. Comfort: The enclosure must have smooth, rounded edges to maximize comfort and avoid any sharp edges that could cause discomfort or injury during use.
5. User-Friendly: The design should be intuitive and easy for users to understand and interact with, ensuring that both assembly and usage are straightforward and accessible.
6. Aesthetic Appeal: The design should be visually appealing, integrating seamlessly with the overall look of the glove and providing a sleek, professional appearance.

Step 1: Creating the Sketch

To start the modeling process in Fusion 360, I began with a sketch focused on the battery. The sketch represents the initial blueprint of the enclosure, ensuring that all key components fit precisely within the constraints.

Key Aspects:

1. Starting with the Battery:
2. The first step was to model the battery, which is the core component of the heated gloves. By focusing on the battery first, I ensured that the entire enclosure would be built around its dimensions, safeguarding that it fits snugly within the glove without unnecessary bulk.
3. Adding Tolerances:
4. I incorporated tolerances in the design. These tolerances are essential to avoid making the enclosure too tight or too large. While ensuring a secure fit, I made sure not to add excessive tolerance, which could lead to an unnecessarily large and cumbersome pack.
5. The importance of these tolerances can't be understated. They act like a buffer zone, ensuring that the battery can be easily inserted and removed, adhering to the Ease of Battery Extraction constraint.
6. Maintaining Compactness:
7. The dimensions and tolerances were carefully calculated to keep the pack as compact as possible. This decision directly aligns with the Compact Size constraint, ensuring the pack doesn't become a heavy burden or look unsightly.

Step 2: Simulating the TP4056 and MT3608 Modules

Next, I moved on to simulating the TP4056 and MT3608 modules. Although these components won't be 3D printed themselves, accurately simulating their dimensions is crucial for ensuring they fit perfectly within the enclosure.

Key Aspects:

1. Simulating Electronic Modules:
2. In this step, I needed to model the TP4056 and MT3608 modules. The TP4056 module handles battery charging, while the MT3608 module is used for voltage boosting. Accurately modeling these components ensures they will fit seamlessly within the 3D-printed enclosure.
3. Even though these modules aren't 3D printed, their dimensions and placement are essential to the overall design. By ensuring they fit perfectly, we maintain the Compact Size constraints of the project.
4. Using GrabCAD for Precision:
5. Rather than manually measuring every curve and detail, I utilized GrabCAD. This platform provided the exact electronic parts I needed with perfect dimensions. While the precision was almost too perfect, occasionally lacking tolerance, it saved significant time and effort.
6. STEP Files for Flexibility:
7. One of the greatest advantages of GrabCAD is the availability of STEP files. These files are editable and modifiable, providing flexibility in the design process. By importing these STEP files into Fusion 360, I could easily adjust and customize the models as needed.
8. STEP files act like digital clay, allowing for fine-tuning and modification to meet the specific needs of the project, adhering to the User-Friendly and Comfort constraints.

Step 3: Modeling the Battery Box

Next, I focused on designing the battery box to securely hold the LiPo battery. This step was crucial for ensuring both the protection and compactness of the entire enclosure.

Key Aspects:

1. Designing the Battery Box:
2. The battery box was modeled to the exact size of the LiPo battery, with a little added tolerance to ensure a snug fit. This precision ensures that the battery stays in place without causing unnecessary bulk, adhering to the Compact Size constraint.
3. Using the Shell Tool:
4. To create the enclosure, I utilized the shell tool in Fusion 360. While many people think that the shell tool only hollows out the inside, it actually has a more versatile function. It can also create an offset, adding walls outside the original dimensions of the model. This feature was particularly useful in maintaining the integrity and strength of the enclosure.
5. By applying a 1.5mm offset, I ensured the walls of the enclosure were just thin enough to keep the design compact, yet strong enough to protect the LiPo battery from potential punctures, aligning with the Battery Protection constraint.
6. Ensuring Safety and Strength:
7. The 1.5mm wall thickness provided a balance between compactness and robustness. This thickness was carefully chosen to be strong enough to prevent any sharp objects from piercing the battery, which could lead to a fire hazard.
8. The shell tool's versatility allowed for creating a strong and protective enclosure without compromising on the compact size or the overall comfort of the glove, adhering to the Comfort and User-Friendly constraints.

Step 4: Positioning the Electronic Components

The next crucial step was deciding where to place the TP4056 and MT3608 modules within the enclosure. This placement is vital to maintaining the overall compactness and usability of the heated gloves.

Key Aspects:

1. Considering Different Positions:
2. Initially, I considered placing the components on the top and bottom of the enclosure. However, this configuration would have significantly increased the overall height of the pack, making it more cumbersome and less comfortable to wear, conflicting with the Compact Size and Comfort constraints.
3. Adding Components to the Sides:
4. After re-evaluating, I decided to place the components on the sides of the enclosure. This adjustment would only make the pack slightly wider, which is a more acceptable trade-off since it doesn't significantly impact the glove's comfort.
5. The decision to add the components to the sides aligns with the Compact Size constraint, ensuring the pack remains as small and unobtrusive as possible while accommodating all necessary components.
6. Ergonomic Considerations:
7. Since having slightly wider gloves is more tolerable than bulkier, taller gloves, positioning the components on the sides was the optimal solution. This decision enhances user comfort and usability, adhering to the Comfort and User-Friendly constraints.
8. Additionally, the side placement ensures that the components are easily accessible and well-organized, maintaining the overall design's coherence and functionality.
9. Final Positioning:
10. I carefully moved the TP4056 and MT3608 modules to their final positions on the sides of the enclosure. This thoughtful placement ensures that all components fit harmoniously within the compact design, maintaining both functionality and aesthetic appeal.
11. The final positioning also takes into account the Battery Protection constraint, ensuring that the components are securely housed and not prone to shifting or damage during use.

Step 5: Adding Offset Walls to Cover the Electronics

To further protect the electronic components, I added offset walls to the enclosure. This step was essential for ensuring that the TP4056 and MT3608 modules were adequately covered without compromising the overall design.

Key Aspects:

1. Creating Offset Walls:
2. I introduced a 1mm offset to the walls specifically to cover the electronic components. While this did result in the enclosure becoming slightly taller, it was a necessary trade-off to provide the required protection for the electronics.
3. The 1mm thickness was chosen because it is perfect for thin wall printing. This ensures that the walls are just thick enough to hold and cover the electronics securely without adding unnecessary bulk or weight, aligning with the Compact Size constraint.
4. Minimal Impact on Overall Size:
5. The offset walls were designed to add minimal height to the enclosure. The slight increase in height was deemed acceptable, as it did not significantly affect the compactness or comfort of the glove.
6. By making the enclosure a little wider rather than taller, the design remains more ergonomic and comfortable for the user, adhering to the Comfort and User-Friendly constraints.
7. Protection and Safety:
8. These offset walls provide an additional layer of protection for the electronic components, ensuring they are well-covered and safe from external damage. This step directly supports the Battery Protection constraint by ensuring the internal electronics are shielded.
9. The 1mm offset was specifically chosen to complement the existing protection of the battery. Since the battery itself was already securely protected, the focus here was to safeguard the electronic modules without overbuilding the enclosure.

Step 6: Splitting the Model into Two Parts

To ensure easy assembly and accessibility, I split the model into two separate parts. This step was crucial for allowing the electronic components to be easily inserted and secured within the enclosure.

Key Aspects:

1. Splitting the Model:
2. I divided the model into two distinct parts, which included removing the top section that would cover the electronics. This separation was essential to ensure that the components could be easily inserted and positioned within the enclosure.
3. Top Section Removal:
4. The top section of the enclosure was removed to provide an opening for inserting the electronic components, such as the TP4056 and MT3608 modules. This design choice allows for easy access to the internal components, ensuring they can be placed and secured without difficulty.
5. Enhanced Accessibility:
6. By splitting the model into multiple parts, I ensured that each component could be easily accessed and maintained. This design enhances the user experience, making it easier to assemble and disassemble the enclosure as needed.

Step 7: Adding Venting for the TP4056

One of the crucial steps in the design process was adding vent holes for the TP4056 module, which can get quite hot during operation. These vents help to dissipate heat and ensure the module functions safely and efficiently.

Why the TP4056 Gets Hot:

1. The TP4056 module is responsible for charging LiPo batteries. During this process, it converts the incoming voltage to the appropriate level for the battery, generating heat as a byproduct. Efficient heat dissipation is essential to prevent overheating and ensure the module's longevity and performance.

Venting Design:

Key Aspects:

1. Adding Vent Holes:
2. To cool the TP4056, I added vent holes to the enclosure. Instead of using basic lines, which would not align with the aesthetic appeal, I opted for a more visually pleasing design.
3. Using the Slot Sketch in Fusion 360:
4. I used the slot sketch tool in Fusion 360, which creates a premade slot design consisting of two half-circles connected by two straight lines. This design not only looks modern and minimalistic but also effectively facilitates airflow.
5. The slot design provides both form and function, enhancing the Aesthetic Appeal and Compact Size constraints by integrating seamlessly into the overall design.
6. Ensuring Efficient Heat Dissipation:
7. The vent holes allow for efficient heat dissipation, preventing the TP4056 from overheating during operation. This step is essential for maintaining the module's performance and safety, adhering to the Battery Protection constraint.
8. The vents also allow the indicator light of the TP4056 to be visible, showing whether the device is fully charged or not. This feature enhances the User-Friendly constraint by providing clear visual feedback to the user.

Step 8: Extruding the Vent Design

After finalizing the vent holes using the slot sketch, I extruded the design, resulting in a pleasant and modern look for the enclosure.

Step 9: Adding Fillets to the Design

To enhance both the appearance and comfort of the enclosure, I added fillets to the edges and corners. Fillets are rounded transitions between the surfaces of the model, providing a smooth and polished look.

Key Aspects:

1. Enhancing Visual Appeal:
2. Fillets were added to give the enclosure a sleek and modern look. The rounded edges and corners contribute to a more aesthetically pleasing design, aligning with the Aesthetic Appeal constraint. This design choice ensures that the enclosure looks professional and well-crafted.
3. Improving Comfort:
4. The fillets also play a crucial role in improving the comfort of handling the enclosure. Sharp edges can cause discomfort and even injury during use. By rounding off these edges, the design becomes more ergonomic and pleasant to hold, adhering to the Comfort constraint.
5. The smooth transitions created by the fillets ensure that the enclosure fits seamlessly within the glove, reducing the risk of irritation or pressure points on the user’s hand.

Step 10: Creating Wire Holes

In a compact design, it's crucial to plan for proper wire management. To accommodate the necessary connections, I created two wire holes.

Key Aspects:

1. Ensuring Proper Wire Routing:
2. Wire management is essential in small, compact models to ensure that all connections are organized and functional. Proper routing prevents tangling and makes the assembly process smoother, adhering to the User-Friendly constraint. It also prevents the chance of the wire breaking and causing a short circuit.
3. Creating Two Holes:
4. I started by making two holes in the enclosure:
5. The first hole allows the wire to connect to the heating element in the gloves.
6. The second hole connects the battery to the TP4056 module.
7. By planning these routes, I ensured that the wires have designated paths, reducing the risk of damage or interference with other components, aligning with the Battery Protection and Compact Size constraints.

Step 11: Extruding a Hole for Wire Exit

To ensure the wires can exit the case and connect to the heating element (nichrome wire), I extruded a small rectangular hole on the top surface of the enclosure.

Key Aspects:

1. Creating the Wire Exit Hole:
2. A small rectangular hole was extruded on the top surface of the enclosure. This hole provides a designated pathway for the wires to exit the case and reach the heating element, ensuring proper connection and functionality.
3. This step is crucial for maintaining the User-Friendly and Compact Size constraints, as it ensures that the wires are neatly routed out of the enclosure without compromising the overall design.
4. Ensuring Connectivity:
5. The placement of the hole was carefully chosen to align with the internal components, ensuring that the wires can be easily connected to both the battery and the TP4056 module, as well as the heating element.
6. This design choice helps maintain the Aesthetic Appeal and Comfort constraints by providing a clean and organized way to route the wires without creating unnecessary bulk or discomfort.

Step 12: Creating a Sliding Mechanism for Battery Extraction

Ensuring that the battery can be easily extracted if needed is an important aspect of the design. After considering various options such as screws, magnets, and hinges, I decided to go with a sliding mechanism. This choice was more convenient due to the sufficient wall thickness and simplicity of the design.

Key Aspects:

1. Choosing the Sliding Mechanism:
2. The sliding mechanism was chosen over other options like screws, magnets, and hinges because it is simple and efficient. The existing wall thickness was sufficient to support this mechanism without compromising the structural integrity of the enclosure.
3. This approach aligns with the Ease of Battery Extraction and User-Friendly constraints by providing a straightforward and reliable method to access the battery.
4. Sketching the Triangle:
5. To create the sliding mechanism, I started by sketching a triangle. The triangular shape was crucial in ensuring that the piece would not fall out and would only allow sliding motion.
6. This design choice ensures that the battery cover remains securely in place while still being easy to slide open when needed, adhering to the Battery Protection constraint.

Step 13: Extruding and Adding Tolerance

I then extruded the triangular sketch and added the necessary tolerance. This led to a great design that only allowed the slide to be opened in one direction.

Front: :back

Step 14: Adding Grips to the Slide Mechanism

Finally, once I had the slide mechanism done, I added grips to the slide. To do this, I patterned rectangles and extruded them. As I extruded them, I used the draft angle built into the extrusion tool to give the triangular shape and grip.

Key Aspects:

1. Patterning Rectangles:
2. I started by creating a pattern of rectangle sketches on the slide mechanism.
3. Extruding with Draft Angle:
4. Using the extrusion tool, I extruded the rectangles while applying a draft angle. This angle helped create a triangular shape, enhancing the grip and ensuring that the slide could be easily operated.
5. The draft angle also contributed to the overall Aesthetic Appeal, providing a sleek and professional look to the enclosure.

Step 15: Adding and Extruding the Switch Hole

To accommodate the switch, I added a precisely positioned rectangular hole on the enclosure and then extruded it. This step ensures that the switch can be securely installed and easily accessible.

Key Aspects:

1. Creating the Switch Hole:
2. I added a rectangular hole in a strategically chosen location on the enclosure to house the switch. This placement ensures that the switch is both easily accessible and functional.
3. The size and shape of the hole were carefully measured to fit the specific switch being used, maintaining the User-Friendly and Compact Size constraints.
4. Extruding the Hole:
5. Using the extrusion tool, I extruded the rectangular hole to create a clean and precise opening. This process ensures that the switch fits snugly and securely within the enclosure.
6. Extruding the hole also contributes to the Aesthetic Appeal, providing a seamless and professional look to the design.

Step 16: Adding a Conduit for Excess Battery Wire

Finally, to finish the model, I added a conduit where the battery is to manage the leftover wire. Since the battery wire has a long length, it was necessary to create a space to store the extra wire safely.

Key Aspects:

1. Creating the Conduit:
2. I cut out a small section within the enclosure to hold the extra wire from the battery. This conduit ensures that the cables do not get cut or bent, providing a safe and organized way to manage the wire length.
3. By creating this dedicated space, I ensured that the battery had enough room to fit snugly within the enclosure, aligning with the Battery Protection and Compact Size constraints.
4. Protecting the LiPo Battery:
5. The conduit plays a crucial role in protecting the LiPo battery by preventing the wires from being damaged or interfering with other components. Proper wire management is essential for maintaining the safety and integrity of the battery.
6. This step ensures that the enclosure remains user-friendly and safe, adhering to the User-Friendly and Comfort constraints.

Assembly Instructions

1. Start off by following the first part of the wiring diagram. It should use the TP4056, MT3608, and a switch. Then, glue the electronics to the electronics frame. I highly recommend performing a short-circuit test because the wiring is in a very small area, making it more prone to short circuits. You do not need to cable connectors and you can just solder everything if you wanted too.

*make sure to cut the battery cable 1 cut at a time to prevent short circuits*

1. Next, insert the heated gloves cable through the battery holder hole.

1. Now, plug in the battery and get ready to insert it. As you insert the battery, your battery wires should follow the 3D-printed channel.

1. Now, glue the battery holder to the electronics frame.

1. Then, glue on the top. Make sure the vent holes are positioned over the TP4056.

1. Also, ensure that your wires have plenty of space in the channel and are kept away from the battery.

1. Finally, add the top on.

1. Gloves
2. Now, the hardest part is over. Start by cutting a very small hole in the gloves.

1. Now, you need to add the nichrome wire through the glove. First, you must measure how much wire you are going to use. (This is for the formula later on) To do this, you will need to outline where you want the nichrome wire to go.

1. Next, you need to measure the wire. You can also heat shrink it for more safety and protection. (And color.)

1. Then, you need to put the nichrome wire in its final destination. You can poke holes in the gloves and then have the nichrome wire follow it through. It should look like this once done.

1. If you are using connectors, you can solder them to the nichrome wire. Otherwise, you can solder the wires (MT3608 output wires) through the external gloves.

1. Next, put the other glove on. (External glove)

1. It should be a very comfortable fit. If it isn’t, the gloves are likely too small, and you may need a larger size for the external gloves (the ones with pockets).

1. Finally, open the zipper and insert the battery pack, ensuring you plug it in correctly. Once you want heat, simply flip the switch.

Conclusion

1. Overall, this turned out really well. I was initially worried there would be a huge bulge, but there wasn’t. It feels very comfortable and warm.

Operation (of Electronics)

1. Once you probe the heated gloves’ wires, your multimeter should read a low voltage and then a high voltage once turned on. If it is greater than 3V, it is fine.

1. Now, as you turn the potentiometer on the MT3608 (voltage multiplier), you should see the voltage increase or decrease.

1. Finally, set the voltage to the amount you wish. To do this, follow our formulas from earlier. The main thing you want is temperature. This is in relation to voltage and length (nichrome wire). The rest is extra information if needed.

My example: with 1150mm

1. Once you have set the voltage, you can start charging. You should see a blue or red light. Blue indicates that the battery is fully charged, while red indicates that the battery is still charging.

1. Test
2. Now, it was time to test how hot it got. I set it to around 5V to achieve 90 degrees Fahrenheit. It heated up really quickly and maintained a fairly constant temperature once it reached the set value. (Timer on top showing real time.)

1. It ended up taking around 50 seconds to get the target temperature and it leveled off at around 1 minute. Obviously, I tested this in my house (around 70 degrees Fahrenheit), so the time result may differ in colder climates.

Although winter can be brutal, the best part about it is making something to fight the cold. Building these heated gloves was a great learning experience, and I got to see how much I’ve improved in electronics compared to my other projects. I learned a lot about battery efficiency, heating elements, and how small details—like wire placement—can make a big difference in comfort and performance.

I want to thank you guys if you made it all the way through this Instructable! It means a lot, and I hope you got something useful out of it. Whether you learned about battery choices, heating methods, or just picked up some ideas for your own DIY projects, I hope this helped. If you decide to build your own heated gloves, I’d love to see them! And if you have any suggestions, questions, or ideas for improvement, feel free to share them.

As for what’s next, I’m thinking about adding a temperature control system to make the heat adjustable instead of just on or off. Maybe even experimenting with better battery setups to make them last longer or be more compact. Either way, I had a ton of fun making these, and I hope you enjoyed following along!