DIY GRBL Dual Laser 5W and 20W

Completely reconstructed my old Zombie Laser - now using T/V20 aluminum extrusions as a frame instead of chrome rods and brass sliders.

I designed a gantry which can accomodate single, or duel laser modules. This sacrificed a bit of work space - but allowed easily switching between the 2 lasers.

I use a Neje 5W (optical output 2.5W) variable focus laser for more detailed and precision work - as the dot focus is extremely accurate and adjustable. I still need air assist when I use this module...

I further use a 20W AtomStack fixed focus laser (optical output 5-6W - but milage vary). I have upgraded the wiring, and super-sized the fan to reduce heat and current throttling by the onboard controller - causing diode shutdown and reduced output. I got the inspiration from various sites explaining how the 30W and higher lasers obtain those outputs with the same diodes... This also increased airflow through the funnel / nozzle - which reduces the need for air assist in most cases. I only use additional air assist when cutting 5mm+ or tough materials...

Furthermore - I use a gShield for it's smooth built-in drivers - and easy configuration. I have other controller boards using GRBL or RAMPS configurations - but I find the gShield quiet, and very laser friendly...

1. Arduino UNO R3 or Compatible (I use prefer Waveshare's - high quality at afforadble price and extra features)
2. gShield v4+ or similar GRBL compatible shield.
3. I recommend the gShield as it is very laser friendly regarding spindle-speed, output and the PWM control etc.
4. I prefer GRBL v1+ comparible devices, with quiet, built in stepper drives drivers...
5. For lasers - especially on wheel frames - low amp, quiet, and no more than 8X micro-stepping in my opinion...
6. But I have run this exact setup on a standard CNC shields, GRBL shields etc. using 3 axis shields, etc.
7. Laser Mobule of your choice...
8. Many X M3 Nut, Stud, Bold, Washer
9. Not so manyy X M4 Nut, Stud, Bolt, Washer
10. T or V slot aluminum extrusions. I used 20x20mm V slot...
11. T or V slot (match according to frame above) wheels and 90 deg corner joints... I did 3D printed what I didn't have on hand, like a wheel, or joint - until I found what worked
12. T2.5 Pulley + T2.5 Idler + T2.5 Belt - 6MM
13. AT/ATX/Micro ATX 200-450W Power Supply (300W+ is probably overkill - I use a 230W

1. Print what you need
2. Buy what you need
3. Print what you cannot buy
4. Assemble, drill, as necessary
5. I tried various combinations, drilled various holes, reworked the frame and gantries quite a bit until I got a quite stable, but not over engineered solution that is easily changeable, upgradable and mobile....

Print what you need... I even have some wheels - if you don't have on hand...