DIY GRBL Dual Laser 5W and 20W
by JeannvanRooyen in Workshop > Laser Cutting
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DIY GRBL Dual Laser 5W and 20W
![VidThumb.jpeg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/F96/KKL3/KXBU231E/F96KKL3KXBU231E.jpg&filename=VidThumb.jpeg)
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![DIY 20W Laser GRBL Part 1](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FEO/4UKB/KXLU4ZMG/FEO4UKBKXLU4ZMG.jpg&filename=DIY 20W Laser GRBL Part 1)
![DIY 20W Laser GRBL Part 2](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FDE/AC1D/KXLU4ZMH/FDEAC1DKXLU4ZMH.jpg&filename=DIY 20W Laser GRBL Part 2)
Completely reconstructed my old Zombie Laser - now using T/V20 aluminum extrusions as a frame instead of chrome rods and brass sliders.
I designed a gantry which can accomodate single, or duel laser modules. This sacrificed a bit of work space - but allowed easily switching between the 2 lasers.
I use a Neje 5W (optical output 2.5W) variable focus laser for more detailed and precision work - as the dot focus is extremely accurate and adjustable. I still need air assist when I use this module...
I further use a 20W AtomStack fixed focus laser (optical output 5-6W - but milage vary). I have upgraded the wiring, and super-sized the fan to reduce heat and current throttling by the onboard controller - causing diode shutdown and reduced output. I got the inspiration from various sites explaining how the 30W and higher lasers obtain those outputs with the same diodes... This also increased airflow through the funnel / nozzle - which reduces the need for air assist in most cases. I only use additional air assist when cutting 5mm+ or tough materials...
Furthermore - I use a gShield for it's smooth built-in drivers - and easy configuration. I have other controller boards using GRBL or RAMPS configurations - but I find the gShield quiet, and very laser friendly...
Supplies
![Atomstack 20W.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/F0W/ZKU3/KXBU1Q91/F0WZKU3KXBU1Q91.jpg&filename=Atomstack 20W.jpg)
![GT2 Belt 6MM.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FMJ/K3A5/KXBU23OD/FMJK3A5KXBU23OD.jpg&filename=GT2 Belt 6MM.jpg)
![GT2 Idler.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FM0/RAAB/KXBU23OE/FM0RAABKXBU23OE.jpg&filename=GT2 Idler.jpg)
![GT2 Pulley.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FFI/OAHI/KXBU23OF/FFIOAHIKXBU23OF.jpg&filename=GT2 Pulley.jpg)
![Limit Switch.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FI8/2LYD/KXBU23OG/FI82LYDKXBU23OG.jpg&filename=Limit Switch.jpg)
![Neje5W.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FMM/TCBC/KXBU23OH/FMMTCBCKXBU23OH.jpg&filename=Neje5W.jpg)
![Nema17.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FI7/H1LF/KXBU23OI/FI7H1LFKXBU23OI.jpg&filename=Nema17.jpg)
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![Wheels.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/F2O/24PR/KXBU23OK/F2O24PRKXBU23OK.jpg&filename=Wheels.jpg)
![uno-plus-1.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FDZ/E5Q8/KXBU1Q8Y/FDZE5Q8KXBU1Q8Y.jpg&filename=uno-plus-1.jpg)
![Atomstack 20W 2.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/F9X/8ILC/KXBU1Q90/F9X8ILCKXBU1Q90.jpg&filename=Atomstack 20W 2.jpg)
![GShield.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FUV/DWZO/KXBU1Q92/FUVDWZOKXBU1Q92.jpg&filename=GShield.jpg)
- Arduino UNO R3 or Compatible (I use prefer Waveshare's - high quality at afforadble price and extra features)
- gShield v4+ or similar GRBL compatible shield.
- I recommend the gShield as it is very laser friendly regarding spindle-speed, output and the PWM control etc.
- I prefer GRBL v1+ comparible devices, with quiet, built in stepper drives drivers...
- For lasers - especially on wheel frames - low amp, quiet, and no more than 8X micro-stepping in my opinion...
- But I have run this exact setup on a standard CNC shields, GRBL shields etc. using 3 axis shields, etc.
- Laser Mobule of your choice...
- Many X M3 Nut, Stud, Bold, Washer
- Not so manyy X M4 Nut, Stud, Bolt, Washer
- T or V slot aluminum extrusions. I used 20x20mm V slot...
- T or V slot (match according to frame above) wheels and 90 deg corner joints... I did 3D printed what I didn't have on hand, like a wheel, or joint - until I found what worked
- T2.5 Pulley + T2.5 Idler + T2.5 Belt - 6MM
- AT/ATX/Micro ATX 200-450W Power Supply (300W+ is probably overkill - I use a 230W
![IMG_20211207_221003.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FQM/ZZ0B/KXBU1Q6P/FQMZZ0BKXBU1Q6P.jpg&filename=IMG_20211207_221003.jpg)
![IMG_20211207_220931.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FG3/ZO6H/KXBU1Q6N/FG3ZO6HKXBU1Q6N.jpg&filename=IMG_20211207_220931.jpg)
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- Print what you need
- Buy what you need
- Print what you cannot buy
- Assemble, drill, as necessary
- I tried various combinations, drilled various holes, reworked the frame and gantries quite a bit until I got a quite stable, but not over engineered solution that is easily changeable, upgradable and mobile....
3D Printable Parts
![X Gantry ASSEMBLY.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/F55/1QZ2/KXLU4Z82/F551QZ2KXLU4Z82.jpg&filename=X Gantry ASSEMBLY.jpg)
Print what you need... I even have some wheels - if you don't have on hand...