DIY Floating Bed Frame
by SEB TECH DIY in Workshop > Furniture
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DIY Floating Bed Frame
I made a DIY Floating Bed Frame for my 2yo, it is a Twin size bed frame with two options for the sides, you could have safety sides for toddler made with 2x4's, or you can make a regular bed contour using 2x6 or 2x8, I included both options in the free plans below.
I added some "floating" effect with a stick-on RGB led strip. You can select your favorite color and it make a very nice effect all around the bed. I show you step by step how to make it, you can watch my youtube video and save free plans pictures below.
So let's get started!
Supplies
MATERIAL LIST ( LUMBER )
[7x] 2x4x8
[3x] 2x3x8
[2x] 2x3x10
[5x] 1x3x10
MATERIAL LIST :
RGB LED STRIP : https://amzn.to/3J0wC7t
SAMAN WOOD STAIN : https://amzn.to/33z2pw1
HEADLOK SCREWS 2"7/8 : https://amzn.to/329Ai6k
15X FELT PADS : https://amzn.to/3sjQOeA
KREG 2"½ SCREWS : https://amzn.to/3FdNUf0
TOOLS I USED :
KREG POCKET HOLE JIG : https://amzn.to/30FmqQs
MITER SAW : https://amzn.to/3yF6bzo
CORDLESS DRILL : https://amzn.to/33xOHcK
SPADE BIT 5/8 : https://amzn.to/3q9Kunj
DRILL BIT : https://amzn.to/3mezaFi
OSCILLATING TOOL : https://amzn.to/3H2w1k5
Disclaimer : As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases you make using my affiliate links. It really help me continue to bring you more free content when you purchase using my affiliate link and it doesn't cost you more so it's a win/win situation.
CUTTING WOOD PIECES
First thing first, I cut all the wood needed for the bedframe. Here is the list of all the cut pieces you will need to assemble this bed frame. You will see option A or option B below, this is because that if you choose to build the bedframe with toddler sides, you will need the pieces for option A, if you choose to have no safety sides, you will need pieces from option B.
ASSEMBLING THE BOTTOM BASE
Bottom base is the one that will sit on the flood. This step is easy, it's only five 2x4 pieces to assemble and we are done. I put some wood glue and 3 inches wood screw to make sure the build is strong.
ASSEMBLING THE TOP BASE
The top base will sit on the bottom base. And because the top base is longer and larger that the bottom one, the top base will be ''floating'' over the floor. This one is a little bit more complex but should be easy to assemble with the plan. Just cut your pieces, lay them down and add some glue and some 3 inches screw. I decided to make the top base using 2x3, i did this because the sides are made with 2x4 and the difference of 1 inches will help sink the mattress in. If you're going to use regular 2x6 or 2x8 for the sides, you could use 2x4 to make the top base.
ASSEMBLING BOTTOM AND TOP BASE TOGETHER
Because i used 2x3 lumber for the top base, i can use regular 3 inches wood screw to fix both bases together. A 2x3 is 2½ high, so i drill some holes to countersink screw the screws at least half inch deep, then my wife help me put screws all around to secure both pieces together.
ADDING MATTRESS SLATS
I lay down the 15x 1x3 slats on the top base, and i space them equally using 3 spacers. I'm using 18ga brad nails to fix them in place. But i also skip 3 slats for now, two on each end and one in the middle because later i will need to fix the bed frame to the wall and also fix the sides from the inside so skipping 3 slats will really help me with that.
ASSEMBLING THE SIDES
Now for this part, you have two options. Option A is higher sides ( that i made for my toddler ), but you can also make the sides using only 2x8 or 2x6 to make a regular contour around the bed frame that will sink the mattress in. For this step, i will showing you the one i made, Option A.
I made the sides using 2x4's. And to assemble them, i drill 4 pocket holes in each 9'' pieces. That will allow me to assemble them using wood glue and 2½ washer head screws.
DOWELS AND SANDING
To cover the pocket holes, i insert some 3/8 dowels in each pocket holes. I put some glue first then i twist each dowel while inserting them, that will make sure glue goes everywhere. Then, using my multi-tool, i cut each dowels flush.
Then i took each pieces (only sides pieces) outside to avoir dust in my shop (i need to make a dust free setup in my shop) I sand each of them starting with 120 grit then 220 grit sandpaper to make sure it's smooth enough. The difference is huge between a sanded piece versus a rough one.
MAKING HOLES FOR HEADLOK SCREWS
The three pieces that make the sides will be fixed together using headlok screw, those are structural screw that you usually use when building a deck. But the black head make a clean finished look that you can use for furniture like this bed frame.
So i use a spade bit to drill just deep enough so the head of the screw is recessed, then i drill the center with a regular drill bit to make sure the wood doesn't split. I put 4 of those headlock screw on one side and two on the other one.
This step also help me test the fit of the 3 sides around the bed frame.
STAIN
I'm using a charcoal interior wood stain from the company SAMAN. I stain the 3 sides of the bed frame and I do the same with the outside of the bottom base. One coat give a matte finish and 2 coats give a satin finish.
And while I have the base upside down on my work table, I took this opportunity to stick some felt protectors under it.
INSTALLING THE SIDES ON THE FRAME
It's time to install the sides to the bed frame. I start by laying down my 3 pieces on the floor, then I add some "stoppers" using some clamps so that all the pieces will be installed at the same height.
Once the sides are in place, I screw them together using 2"7/8 Headlok structural screws. Those screws are really strong and usually used when building a deck, but their black finish give a nice look for furniture.
You can find these on amazon via my affiliate link : https://amzn.to/329Ai6k
Once those sides are fixed together, I use some 2"½ Kreg Washer head screws to screw the sides to the bed frame from the inside. I put a couple screws all around.
2"½ Kreg Screws available here : https://amzn.to/3e8Eaac ( Affiliate link )
LED LIGHTS STRIP
I'm now adding a RGV led strip all around the bottom base to give a better floating effect, especially at night. This stick-on led strip come with a 44 keys remote, so you can change the color easily and also make some patterns.
What I like about this model is that the IR received is integrated in the led strip itself, so it make a cleaner look. If you look to buy the same as the one I used, you can purchase it here via my affiliate link : RGB LED STRIP W/ REMOTE
FIXING BED TO THE WALL
To make sure the bed frame doesn't tip when you put weight over the floating part of the frame, I fix it to the wall. Earlier, I didn't nail three of the slats to give me space to do so. Two of my screw are fixed to the wall using drywall anchors, and the third one is in the wall stud.
It's enough to hold my weight, and in the video you'll see the bed frame flexing but most of this is cause by the felt protector being compressed. Overall this bed frame is very sturdy.
ADDING LAST THREE WOODEN 1X3 SLATS
Once the build is fixed to the wall, I can install the 3 missing wooden slats. For these last 3, I drilled some holes in them and I'm screwing them in the base so they can be remove to be able to unscrew the bedframe from the wall.
Once it's done, I put the mattress in place, and I'm ready to show you the final result! 😊
FINAL RESULT
Here we go, a brand new bed frame for my two year old. He like it so much!
This project took me a week-end to build. I am really happy with the result. Price can vary much, for me it costed me around 3.80 CAD per wood lumber (2x4,2x3) and 2.50 CAD for each 10' slat. So for lumber it was around 60$+tx for the lumber. Then you have to calculate stain, screws, led strip, anchors, headlok screws. I already had the stain underhand so total cost of this project for me was around 100$ CAD.
Thank you for watching my instructables, make sure you watch my youtube video and don't forget to subscribe for more!
See you next time! Bye! 😏