DIY Dress Form — Step-by-Step Instruction

by BettyStewart in Craft > Sewing

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DIY Dress Form — Step-by-Step Instruction

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If you are a beginning tailor or just have a passion for sewing your own clothes or corsets — you need a mannequin. In this instruction I will show you how to create you own DIY anatomically precise dress form with a rigid inner frame and soft outer shell for sewing, fitting, or display. All you need is just a set of readily-available materials and a bit of patience.

This instruction is made for a corset-style dress form patterns from this website, but there are also patterns for a standard mannequins of any size.

Supplies

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All the links are just for information. You may find these materials much cheaper locally, also their names may vary in different regions.

  1. 2 mm felt (outer shell)
  2. Non-elastic cotton fabric (like Muslin of Calico)
  3. Polyester fiberfill (and optionally micro-granules for bust filling). You can also use leftover batting, fabric scraps, etc.
  4. Boning strips or Rigilene (5 mm & 10 mm or ½" & ¼")
  5. Bias tape, thin satin ribbon (3 mm)
  6. 4–5 mm corrugated cardboard (inner frame)
  7. Metal or plastic pipe to fit on the stand (optionally)
  8. PVA glue, Hot glue gun, scissors/knife, sewing machine (capable to sew zigzag)
  9. Printer (capable to print “real size”), pins, iron, tailor’s ham (optionally)

Before You Start

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To decide what size to select, you need to measure yourself (or a model you are planning to sew a dress form) and then check the size chart. It is a great idea to ask a friend to help, for more accurate measurements.

Then go to the patterns website, select desired size and click add to cart. You will receive ordered patterns and instructions to your email. The same patterns are also available on Etsy.

Instructions you receive are veeery informative and detailed, so in this guide I’ll only cover short step-by-step guide.

Preparation

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  1. Unzip the received files and find the patterns. They are prepared in two most popular paper sizes: A4 or US Letter. Open the file Patterns_A4.pdf or Patterns_Letter.pdf, accordingly.
  2. Print first page of patterns and check 100 mm calibration block with the ruler. It is important to verify your print settings. If the size doesn’t match, check your print settings, there must be an option to “print in real size”, or “100% size” or something like this.
  3. If the print size is correct, print all patterns pages.
  4. Join split pages with tape.
  5. Cut out all felt and cardboard parts. Use “Lay Plan” to place templates optimally.
  6. Transfer marks and lines to required pieces.

Outer Shell (Felt Body)

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  1. Sew front parts — upper → lower → neck.
  2. Sew back parts — body → neck.
  3. Join upper + lower + neck sections from center outward to prevent shift.
  4. Reinforce edges with adhesive interlining and bind seams with bias tape.
  5. Add boning on red-marked lines; seal ends.

Bust Cups

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  1. Sew 8 cup parts (choose AA/A/B size).
  2. Shape on tailor’s ham.
  3. Add bias tape inside edge.
  4. Hand-stitch cups to body along marked seams (leave one hole for stuffing).

Inner Frame

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  1. Glue templates to cardboard (follow flute direction) and cut out all parts.
  2. Punch holes and pipe notches.
  3. Cover both sides with cotton fabric using PVA. Sew perimeter seams, trim.
  4. Fold & sew fabric sleeve for pipe.
  5. Bend along bust & waist lines for shape.
  6. Glue wooden sticks where marked; reinforce with ribbons.


Assembly

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On this step we are joiningfront/back shell halves to the inner frame with ahand stitch according to instruction. After joining, your mannequin top will be almost ready:

Stuffing & Finishing

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  1. Fill cavity with polyester fiber from bottom up (not too tight).
  2. Sew waist section, then stuff cups and neck tightly.
  3. Sew neck section and close openings.
  4. Insert and glue pipe sleeve; trim excess.

Done!

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Your Corset Dress Form Top is ready for use.

Repeat these steps for Bottom section, sew a cover and, if required, optional parts like arms or head and you will get a dress form with almost a factory quality made by your own hands!

Tips

  1. Always sew from center to edges to keep symmetry.
  2. Iron lightly through cloth to shape felt.
  3. Don’t over-stuff; allow natural firmness.
  4. For softer bust, use micro-granules instead of fiberfill to stuff the cups.