DIY Copper Tool Ferrule for Irregular Shapes

I recently decided to add handles to my files (long overdue), however, I decided to shape my scrap wood into hexagonal and octagonal form. This poses a challenge with adding the ferrule. Ferrules help prevent the wood from splitting over time and are usually round tubing/pipe cut to slide on. This would only work if I turned my hex/octagonal handle on a lathe...nah, I thought. Challenge accepted! I will use copper tubing, but not in the way you may think. Check it out.

Tool of choice with assoc. handle

Metal tubing/pipe

Pipe cutter

Metal cutting saw or rotary tool

Vice

Hammer

Pliers

PPE

Marking tool

Ruler or measuring tape (even a piece of string could work)

Snips

Tools/materials to sand / file

(optional) Polish/Sealer

(optional) A jewelers bag to dampen sound

(optional) A jewelers anvil or big @$$ hunk of flat metal

With my handle ready (pic 1), I used a piece of string and wrapped it around the top of the handle. This reminds me of how a tailor measures a waist for slacks or a dress. using that length (pic 2), I cut that length of tube with a pipe cutter (pic 3).

If the piece is slightly skewed, try bending it "straight" with your hands. This way it doesn't bend too far the other direction.

When the pipe is relatively straight, mark a line the length of the pipe/tube (pic 4). Depending on the tools available, cut the pipe lengthwise with a saw or rotary tool (pic 5-6). When split, use whatever you have handy to pry the pipe apart, carefully. I wound up using pliers / a flat bar and my vice to get this thing open enough (pic 7-9).

When it was "flat" enough but still convex, I pounded it as flat as possible with my recycled HDPE hammer, a pleather purse filled with sand, and my old timey iron (these act as my budget friendly jeweler's tools, pic 10-11).

Now we have our flat stock to wrap and act as our ferrule...but wait, we aren't soldering! So how will we secure this metal? Read on, viewer.

That's right, finger joints!

Start by wrapping the tube around the handle, trying to roughly shape it around the edges (pic 1-3). We want it to conform to the polygonal shape. If there is any excess, mark and cut it off (pic 4-5).

Now we want to cut fingers on one edge of the metal (pic 6). With your semi-conformed shape, re-wrap the ferrule on the handle and interlock the fingers with the other edge, being mindful of any sharp edges/burrs.

Pound the metal ferrule from the other side and work your way around to the front where the fingers are (pic 7). Slowly you will start to better conform your metal to the handle while also closing the gap between the fingers and the other edge (pic 8).

It will push itself into itself and you may need to adjust at this point either by cutting deeper fingers or trimming long fingers. You don't want it to look like a skeleton hand wrapped around the whole length of the ferrule, unless you do!

Once you are satisfied, hammer the ferrule into it's final shape and start solidifying those finger into the main body of the metal (pic 9). This will push the copper fingers into itself to reduce sharp edges and make it tighter (pic 10).

(Optional) You could even add a few dabs of CA glue or epoxy into where the ferrule will rest while it is still relatively loose to help it adhere to the handle. I have made a few of these and was satisfied without but it is not a bad idea. Just be sure to mar the inner surface to help the adhesive "bite" into it.

With a little patience, you will have a tight ferrule.

At this point, you may have some of the edge finger that "spider" out past the edges of the metal. Now is the opportunity to clean those up, remove any other sharp edges, polishing, and seal your ferrule for regular use.

I chose not to seal the metal just yet to see how it will patina over time. Then I will decide to seal or sand.

And that is that.

I hope you give this a try and that it helps out if you need a ferrule. Catch you on the next one.