DIY Concrete and Wood End Tables

Hey guys! Today I'm goin to show you how I made some great little end tables. They have a concrete top that gives it a nice high quality look and feel, but also very durable. The wood frame is also very clean and stylish, but very easy to put together as well. These tables would be great for either indoor or outdoor use, I made mine for outdoor use around the fire pit. These are also very customizable too, you can dye the concrete different colours and make the frame whatever colour of stain you prefer, or even paint the frame, the choice is yours! So let's get to it!

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• 3 - 2"x2"x8' pine boards
• 2'x4' 3/4" thick melamine
• Drywall screws
• Inexpensive car wax
• All purpose cleaner
• Shop towels
• Concrete mix
• 100% pure silicone
• Torpedo level
• Dust mask and gloves (nitri
• Pocket hole jig
• Pocket hole screws
• 800 grit sandpaper
• 220 grit sanding sponge
• Orbital sander with 120 grit paper
• Wood stain or paint
• Clear coat of your choice
• Miter saw (or whatever saw you have available)
• Tape measure
• Concrete countertop sealer
• Concrete countertop wax
• Rubber feet
• Drill with 1/16" drill bit
• Impact (optional)
• Couple differnet clamps

First thing I'm going to start on is the moulds so I can get my concrete poured. It will need to dry for a couple days and we can work on the wood frames in the meantime. I'm making my moulds out of leftover 3/4" thick melamine from other concrete projects, but a 2'x4' sheet from the store will do you just fine for these. You'll need to cut your bottom piece to the size you need, I made mine 15.25" square. Use whatever saw you have available, I just used my circular saw and a square as my fence, but a table saw would make quick work of this as well. For the side walls you'll want to make the 2.25" wide to give us a concrete top that is 1.5" thick when we are done. Because we are mounting our side wall to the sides of the bottom piece we need to account for the 3/4" thick lower piece of melamine. You'll also want to cut 2 of your side pieces to be the same 15.25" long as our bottom piece, and 2 of them between 16"-16.75". Because I was using leftover pieces I didn't do this and got away with it because they were so small, but best practice is to overlap your sides.

Alrighty, take your walls and lay them out how they are going to be around the mould, make sure they are all the same height. If it isn't quite perfect, lift the wall that is lower than the one next to it so they are the same height. Now using a drill with a 1/16" drill bit, drill a hole so it lands halfway in the center of the base piece, so 3/8" up from the ground, also keep the hole at least 1.5" away from the ends to avoid splitting. Drill holes every 6" or so along the sides, 3 is plenty for this size slab. Make sure to predrill all holes! If you don't, the melamine will swell and split when screws are added and it will show in your concrete slab. Speaking of screws, add some 1.5" drywall screws. You can use regular deck screws here, but the chance of still swelling the mould is there because the shaft of the screw is thicker, a drywall screws has a thinner body to it, but very coarse threads on it to grab onto the chipboard in the melamine better. Once the mould is assembled we need to clean the inside of it, if we don't, whatever is on the melamine can stain the slab, but will also be embedded in it. Nothing crazy, just some regular all purpose household cleaner on a shop rag does the job, don't forget the side walls. Once it is all good to go we can seal the mould, I love to use an inexpensive car wax because that's it's job is literally to create a sealed barrier. This is so the melamine pulls away from the slab super easy without any fuss later on. Wipe on a good thick coat of wax, let it dry for a couple minutes and wipe it all off. After that we can seal the edges with 100% pure silicone (I like to use a kitchen and bath, doesn't matter the colour). This will give the sides and top of the slab a nice rounded edge when we are done, and prevent water leakage from the seams. I like to cut the silicone tube above the 1/8" line at a angle. The less you apply along all the seams and sides the less you have to remove and clean up later, but you want just enough to smooth out. Try and wipe it in one smooth long pass per side, you can use your finger or a caulking round over or edging tool if you prefer. Once applied to the mould, let it sit for at least 2 hours before adding concrete.

When it comes to mixing your concrete, you can get electric mixers from the hardware store, but that's a couple hundred dollars, or you can pick up a mixing tub like this from the concrete aisle in most big box hardware stores.I'd definitely say to get the larger one, you can mix up t 2 bags in it, but you can also just mix 1 bag much easier. When it comes to the mix I just picked up the least expensive bag from my store, was about $6.50, for these, and by some shear fluke I used a concrete calculator and found I needed exactly 1 bag for these 2 slabs, I swear I didn't plan that lol. I like to add some water to the bottom of the tub first, then add my mix on top, just helps get some water into it from both sides. Make sure to only add water incrementally at this point, and only as needed while mixing. I added 1 bottle of charcoal concrete dye as well to give them a darker finish, but there are lots of options on the market, from liquid dyes to powdered dyes, so choose your colour! When it comes to mixing a garden ho works great, but I used a ice scraper lol. Mix it thoroughly, making sure to scrape the corners and sides to get all the mix and dye incorporated. You don't want any dry concrete or dye spots, they will be weak spots. As your mixing, if it gets dry and clumpy, add a bit more water and keep mixing. Come at it from multiple directions and sides. It is pretty heavy so be prepared to put some effort into it. Once it looks mixed, mix it for another minute or two to be sure. You're going for a oatmeal type consistency here, not dry, but not so wet you have standing water.

Before we add it to the mould, we want to make sure they are level in all directions first. The concrete make look thick, but you'll be surprised at just how fast it will run to the low side and become uneven when the vibrating starts. I just stuck some sticks I found on the ground under the sides until it was level lol but some cedar door shims would be perfect. You can use either a clean shovel, or a small bucket to get the mix from the mixing tub to the mould. Then using your fingers (in gloves) push it around and into the corners and edges and just generally flatten it. Once it is about 3/4 full, we can start our first round of vibrating. Using a hammer go all around the mould, tapping (not slamming on it) the sides to release trapped air bubbles. You'll watch the concrete start to flatten and self level at this point. You can vibrate for as little or long as you want. I only did it for a couple minutes, knowing I'd have some small air bubbles left, but I wasn't worried about it for small outdoor tables. Normally I'd vibrate for 10-15 mins at least and you'd end up with very few, super tiny bubbles. Once flat and satisfied you have enough bubbles out for yourself, we can add some reinforcement. This will help prevent curling over time as well as cracking. You can find this in the concrete aisle as well in either a wire form 4x8 sheet (I used leftovers again), or even a diamond mesh. Use bolt cutters or a angle grinder, whatever you have, to cut it to size. You'll want to keep the metal about 1" from all the edges, and you may need to twist it slightly to get it to lay flat. Once that's added, grab a bit more concrete and add it in, pushing with your hands again to smooth it out. Keep adding it little by little until it's full and smooth. You could screed it at this point, but isn't full necessary on a slab this small. Now we can vibrate it again. I only did about 5 mins this time, again knowing I'd have some small voids. But another 10-15 mins is best for that super clean finish. Go all along the sides and if you can, also tap the bottom of it to help get some out of the center of the slab. Once it's all done, I like to let it sit for a couple hours to set up a bit, if you want to now is the time to trowel it lightly if you want to really smooth it out. Now we can cover them with a tarp or plastic and put it to bed for 48 hours. The covering will help retain moisture and a humid environment to control and slow down the drying process. This is the worst part now, the eager waiting!

Oooooooo the anticipation! Finally we can see what we created. Remove all the screws from the side walls and set aside. Now, carefully and slowly remove the sides, if you waxed em up good they should easily pull away. If not you can use a screwdriver or chisel, but only pry wood against wood, not against the concrete because it is still soft and will be damaged. This is your fist look at the sides, it is still rough yet though. With all the sides removed we can use a 220 grit sanding sponge and start to soften the edges. When sanding however, make sure to sand from the corner into the center of the slab, only using moderate pressure. This will help to avoid chipping off the corner if we sanded from the center and off the tip, or just went rouge sanding lol. Once the edges are all softened I like to blow it off and then hit it with a small squirt bottle and some water. This again is just helping it to cure slowly to prevent problems. Now we can carefully flip it over, make sure to not pinch your fingers. The top should come off pretty easy with a little prying and twisting in a couple different directions. If it doesn't want to release, you can use a small tapered wood cedar shim used for installing doors (find the thinnest one in the bundle) and slowly, lightly tap in between the slab and mould in the center, not a corner. The shim is soft enough to not damage the concrete, but being tapered, it will break the seal and then you can lift it off. And there it is, your slab! It is still rough yet, but don't worry, it'll shine right up! For now, we are going to use our side walls from the mould and set it up on them for another 24 hrs. Then give the top and sides another squirt of water. This will allow air to flow all around it, but also let it come up to a higher hardness before we start sanding on it. I swear, this is the last waiting!

Using some pine 2x2 we can start making out wood frames. You can use whatever wood species you prefer, but for me pine had the look I wanted, and the price, but is also readily available. Measure and cut 4 legs at 19.5" long, this will make the whole table 21" tall once the slab is applied. Then cut 3 stretchers at 15.5" long as well, this will leave 3/4" approximately from the edges of the slab to the legs when installed. You'll also need 2 pieces at 7" each for small stretchers, these will intersect the top stretcher later. For now, grab your pocket hole just and drill 2 holes in each end of all your stretchers. I only added one and I don't recommend that, it makes it very easy for them to roll and twist in place. With everything cut and holes drilled we can sand it all down using a orbital sander and some 120 grit paper. You can go finer but it's not necessary.

This is pretty easy. Grab 2 of your leg pieces and one of your long stretchers. Add some glue to each end of your stretcher and add it in between your leg pieces making sure the pocket holes are facing out, in this case up, so they will be hidden when the concrete is set on. Then clamp them down so they are flush with each other and screw them together. Flip it end for end and on the bottom sides of the legs, measure up 2" and make a mark on each leg. Then take another long stretcher and with glue on the joints, add it above that mark you just made using more 2.5" pocket hole screws, except this time you want the screws facing down so they will be hidden underneath.

With the first section set aside we can start on the second. Assembly is basically the same as the first, except I'm starting on the bottom this time. Grab your other 2 leg pieces and this time measure up 4" from the bottom, then attach your last long stretcher above that line, this will give us 1/2" between the lower stretchers when put together. Now flip it to the top side and put your 2 short stretchers on each side, this leaves a 1.5" gap for the other top stretcher to pass through.

Take your split assembly and pass it though the solid one at and angle, and then stand it up into place. You can pull them open slightly at the top to fit around the top stretcher without rubbing if you pre applied glue like I did. They should be able to stand on their own no problem. Now make a mark center of your short stretchers, as well as the long one. Now you can line up the marks to know that everything is centered with each other. Once they are lined up, take a clamp and pull the short stretchers into the long one, this will help them to stop from pushing away when you apply the screws. If you have a face clamp I'd also add that to the joint, again it will stop the pocket screw from wandering as it goes in. This will keep everything centered, and level for a nice flush joint. You see here now what I meant by the pocket screws facing up and being hidden under the concrete top.

With the frame fully assembled at this point, give it a wipe down with a shop rag dampened slightly with just water to remove sanding dust. Now you can add your finish of choice. You can paint it, stain it or just clear coat it, but whatever option you choose you have plenty of colour choices out there. I chose to stain mine with a white stain, and added a matte finish urethane clear coat. Because I didn't want my tables to be sitting directly on the ground absorbing water, I added these small little rubber bumpers to the feet. This will help prevent premature rot from rainwater, sprinklers, or dew keeping the ground wet. I predrilled with a 1/16" drill bit and then added them.

Alrighty, now is the time the slab will come to life. Wet the slab with water again and using some 800 grit wet sandpaper wrapped around the sanding sponge we used earlier, wet the paper as well. Keep the spray bottle in hand and start wet sanding in straight lines from one end of the slab to the other using light to moderate pressure. Spray the slab as needed, you want to keep standing water on it. Once you have gone in one direction and back again, switch and go 90 degrees from your first pass. It won't take al that long and you'll start to feel the sandpaper 'break free' if that makes sense. When you first start you'll feel lots resistance but after just a few passes it will start gliding across. That's when you're done. Then do the rounded edges and well as the sides to smooth it all out, keeping it wet as you go, you may need to spray the sandpaper off just to clean the gunk from it. Once you're finished wet sanding, dampen the slab again and use a shop rag to remove all of the sanding residue left on it.

With it all sanded, now we can seal it. This is where it really comes to life and looks like something. Flip the slab over, being careful to not scratch it. Then take the concrete countertop sealer and apply one full strength coat, wiping it in with a microfiber towel. Let it dry for a couple mins and flip it back over again. For the pretty top side I like to dampen the slab first. This will help it soak in deeper, but faster as well to avoid streaks and blotches. Dampen part of your towel in sealer and wipe it into the slab in straight lines, making sure to get the edges and sides as well. Let it sit for 10 mins, or until it is visibly dry and not tacky to the touch. Then add another coat, this time full strength. Dampen your towel again with sealer and dribble a bit on the slab, but be quick to wipe it in, do not let it sit or it will blotch. Then let it dry for 20 mins and repeat for a 3rd coat. After that let it cure for minimum 2 hours. Now we can wax it using a concrete countertop wax. This is easy, I just used a shop rag folded up and wrapped around my 2 fingers. Get a good coat of wax on the towel and start wiping it in using small circles, this really works it into the slab and makes sure we have 100% coverage, pushing moderately hard. I split the slab into 4 equal sections, once I wiped 1/4 of it, I reloaded the towel with wax to give it a good thick coat of wax. Let the wax cure for about 20-30 mins and buff off with a shop rag. Now it should have a nice, slick feel to it and a nice satin sheen as well. Really takes it from the 'concrete' that most people thing of to something that you'd spend hundreds of dollars on. Most people are actually surprised it's even concrete!

With everything done, we can put them together and see what we made. Using the same 100% silicone from the concrete mould, add some nickle sized dollops of silicone the the table frame, not a bead. This will allow the top to flatten the silicone and conform to itself for great contact. Set the concrete slab straight down on it, being careful to be as close as possible. You don't want to smear the silicone around, if you have a bit squeeze out, wipe it off with your finger. Give the slab a small press down to make sure it's on, then let the silicone dry for a couple hours. This is much better than using screws from underneath. Screws can crack the slab ruining your hard work, and won't allow for seasonal, humidity, or temperature movement like squishy silicone will. Don't worry though, silicone has more than enough holding force.

I hope your project turned out awesome!

Let me know what you think, or if you have any questions and I'll get back to ya!

You can tag me or email me directly! Thanks for stopping by and have fun!

CanaDIYan

canadiyanjesse@gmail.com