DIY Cable Stripper Machine for Recycling Copper Wires.

How to

Cable Stripper - Wire Stripper Machine to Recycling Copper Wires from Cables.

At the first and second videos is a step by step layout guide, including materials and plans
while in the third video (at last step) is a demonstration to how it works with various cables.

• DIY Cable stripper Part 1 Main Base & Bearings Bushing Base
• DIY Cable Stripper Part 2 Adjustable Pressure Slider & Power Motor

The cost of the materials is very small and you can make it with any leftovers that you may have.

Basically I calculate my plan according on what I had available.

You can also modify the dimensions according to what you have from materials or to your needs.

• Flat bar

1. 120x8mm 1pcs 115mm & 1pcs 75x30mm
2. 40x5mm 2pcs 40mm & 2pcs 75mm
3. 60x5mm 1pcs 150mm
4. 30x3mm 1pcs 18mm

5. 15x3mm 1pcs 150mm

• Bolt nuts

1. Soulder bolt ø12 M10-35-13 1pcs
2. Soulder bolt ø12 M10-70-16 1pcs (you can see on photo the details of S_bolts) or in turn you can use regular M12 allen socket bolts/nuts

3. M10x50mm Hex head bolt 1pcs

4. M10 nuts 5pcs
5. M6x15mm Countershank head bold 1pcs
6. M6x45mm Allen socket head bolt 4pcs
7. M6 washers 4pcs
8. M6 nuts 4pcs

9. Bronze spacers Internal dia ≥ 12mm & External dia ≤ 16mm 1pcs x10mm & 1pcs x15mm (Isn't need to be exactly the same the critical is only the length of each one)

• Ball bearings

1. ø30/12x9mm 3pcs

• Roller

1. ø30/12x20 mm smooth roller DIN CK60 1pcs

2. ø30/12x20 mm Knurled Roller (optional)

• Power Motor

1. For the roller rotation I have use the motor from an old battery hand drill (14vdc) and one of my two bench top regulated power supplies 10~18VDC/30A & 2~24VDC/10A (both can drive the motor and do the job)

Remember Safety First.

Welding Cutting and Grinding Tools are Dangerous!

Do it at your own Risk!

Use Always the Suitable Protective Equipment.

• Drill press,
• Drill bits ø3 - 3,5short - 4 - 5 - 6 - 8 - 10 -12 - 16 / 16,5mm,

• Cutting oil,

• Counter shank (alternatively you can use drill bits ø 12 or 12,5 & 16,5mm)

• Aniline color,

• Pen Scriber.

• Numeric markers,

• Center punch 3mm & 8mm,

• M6 & M12 taps,

• Angle grinder 115mm

• Cutting disks 1mm & 3mm,

• Grinding flywheel,

• Clamps,

• Files,

• Welding machine / mask / 6013 electrodes 2,5mm,

• Disk saw machine (alternatively you can use your angle grinder with 1mm cutting disc),

• Tape measure, vernier, square,

• Hack saw,

• Hammer,

• Vary wrenches,

• and Screwdriver.

Prepare/cut a piece of flat bar 120x8mm at 115mm and two of flat bar 40x5mm at 40mm.

Clean up the surfaces of pieces so to become smooth enough.

Using aniline paint the marks will be very clear and easy to view.

A number punch mark at the pieces is useful as you will be able to use the same orientation at the whole of building process till to the final assembly avoiding the errors.

Dill the 5 holes at the two pieces of 40x40x5mm. Using a vise you can drill them simultaneously.

Make a jig so to hold it the pieces in correct place aligned and do center punch marks using a Center Punch ø3mm at the points that must become the 5 holes.

Proceed to drilling the holes. (ø3.5 ø4 ø6mm drill bits)

Using an angle grinder with 1mm cutting disc, make the two cuts.

Don't throw out the piece of wastage. We will use it later.

Using a file clean up the cuts.

From a flat bar 8mm thick cut a piece 75x30mm and refine / smooth the edges by a file also do an orientation marck.

Increase the holes that will pass the four M6x45mm bolts to ø6mm.

Increase the center holes to ø10mm and then to ø16.5mm.

Using a countersink clean up the edges of the holes.

Assemble main base - bearings - bushing bases.

Temporarily we will make the diameter of the holes where will be rest the shaft of roller ø10mm.

Later we will increase them to ø12mm.

At the piece of 75x30x8mm do a center punch mark at 15mm from the left/right edge and 10mm from bottom edge.

From the 40x5mm flat bar cut 2 pieces 75mm each one.

According the plan we need 2 pieces 65mm but this extra length will help us later to do at once a straight and symmetrical cut, at the three pieces that slider consists.

Do a center punch mark at 20mm from the left/right edge and 15mm from bottom edge at the first piece.

Align and secure both of them at the vise and drill the hole at both simultaneously.

After you has finish the boring of the holes at ø10mm use a countersink or a ø16mm drill bit and clean up the edges of holes.

Using a M10 bolt/nut mount/align/center the three pieces and tighten the bolt/nut.

The middle piece must be now at 5mm distance from the edge of outer pieces.

Do a center punch mark at 20mm from the left/right edge and 45mm from bottom edge at the front piece.

Drill a ø5mm hole at the three pieces simultaneously.

Disassembly and then at the back piece cut a M6 thread.

At the front and middle piece increase the dia of the hole to 6mm.

Then do a countersunk about 3.3mm depth and dia12mm so to fit a countersunk head bolt M6. (M6x15mm)

If you decide to use a regular M12 Allen socket head bolt then you will need to cut a M12 thread at the back piece.

If you decide to use a M12 Shoulder bolt, then just increase the diamete of the hole to 12mm.

Also need to increase the diameter of hole from 10mm to 12mm at the front and middle piece.

Now we need to fix a small problem.

When the slider is at the lowered point then the upper roller must be in touch with lower roller.

But the bolt’s nut of upper roller is touching over the top of the bushing base at the back side leaving a small gap between the rollers.

The solution is too simple and quick but a disassembly of bushing bases.is needing.

A small cut with a hack-saw at the bushing's base upper edge and some smoothing by a file and it's ok.

Reassembly
bushing bases / bearings / shoulder bolt / bronze spacers / roller.

Now we must cut and remove the extra length from slider.

For this cut I have use my disk saw machine but you can use your angle grinder with cutting disk 1mm as well.

Drill a hole ø4mm and depth 10~12mm at the center of slider's upper edge side.

From a flat bar 30x3mm cut a piece 18mm and do a ø4mm hole at the center.

Now it's time to use the waste of cutting that we have kept from a previous step. Clean up the edges of the piece and do a ø4mm hole at the center.

With the slider into the main base and using a drill bit ø4mm (upside down) adjust / center the pieces (main base / slider / waste of cutting) and keep in place by a clamp. Then tack weld the wastage to main base.

Remove the slider turn the base upside down and complete the welds.

Increase the ø4mm hole at the slider's upper edge side to ø10mm.

After then with a flat sharpening ø10mm drill bit clean up the bottom of the hole so to become cylindrical.

Attach the piece of flat bar 30x3x18mm with the ø4mm hole over the slider's upper edge side at the center using one more time the trick with drill bit.

Please note that we need to tack weld only the one side of piece onto the slider at this time.

Increase the ø4mm hole at the piece of flat bar to ø8mm and do a shallow countersunk not deeper than the half of its thickness using ø10mm drill bit.

Return to the main base and increase the ø4mm hole at the piece of waste to ø10mm.

Weld the second side of flat bar into slider and cut it at the middle.

Mount an M10x50mm bolt at vise and using two nuts (locknut) as guide make a groove around the bolt near the edge.

In this job we will use an angle grinder with a 3mm cutting disk and a file to refine the groove.

Test if all its ok and at the correct position and if yes then increase the diameter of the hole that passing the bolt from 10mm to 12mm.

After that secure with clamps and proceed to weld the nut.

For the adjusting knob we will use a knurled roller.

Use the angle grinder and a pipe with internal diameter a little bit bigger than the bolt's, and grind the hex head so to become conical.

Use a countersink or a drill bit ø16.5mm, and do conical the hole at the roller.

Adjust / secure the bolt and the knurled roller at the vise and then weld.

For the finger protector and load guide we will use a piece of flat bar 15x3x150mm with a loading hole at the one edge.

Secure the flat bar at the vise and using a hammer do the two bends and then weld onto the slider.

While I was at the building process and trials I had use my electrical hand drill to powering the cable stripper.
When the build finished I decided to give a try to powering the cable stripper using the motor from an old battery hand drill 14VDC.

I wasn't so sure that can do the job but a try wasn't something difficult or time consuming.

Finally the old hand drill motor it was a good choice and does the job.

Also I have attach a fan 60mm so as to stay cool when run continuously.

At first I had used a Diamond Knurled Roller,
but the results at the first trials weren’t what I expected.

So I decided and replace it with a new smooth roller (WNr 1.1221 / DIN CK60)

At this third video is a demonstration how it works with various cables (multi core, one core).

• Cable Stripper in Action

Thanks for your reading.

Good Luck if you try it.

Never say I can't do it.

Necessity is the mother of invention.

kess https://www.youtube.com/user/kessgr

http://www.homemadetools.net/builder/kess