DIY 90V 20A Adjustable E Bike Battery Charger Pelican 1150 (HSTNS-PL19 Dps1200fb)

I am right in the middle of a 1500 watt e-bike build and in the middle of the triangle battery. But I had no way to charge the battery and need something that charged a 58.8V 34Ah battery. Luckily I had all the parts and pieces to make this awesome looking adjustable e-bike charger.

Luckily https://jlcpcb.com approached me and asked if they could sponsor one of my videos. Just in time for this build!! Thank you jlcpcb!! $2 For 5 PCBs & Cheap SMT(2 Coupons): https://jlcpcb.com/

This charger is capable of 90V-13V and 20 amps max limited by the reader. Unfortunately, the higher the voltage, the lower the amperage, only because you are limited by the power supply and boost converters max input. But plenty of power for my e-bike battery!! Here is how I put this together!! Here are the parts I used and the links are legit, I get no kickback from any of them. I hope this helps if you decide to build!! Now I added every single little part as if you might not have them in your personal stock. Most of the items, I had on hand from previous projects and purchasing Items in bulk. Also, the links are Amazon and typically Amazon is a little more pricier, but you get the product the next day. If You purchase from eBay, you're looking at about half the cost, and if you purchased from China, maybe 1/3rd. But there is typically a longer wait time for eBay and china parts, depending on where you live.

1800W 40A DC-DC DC Constant Voltage Constant Current Boost Converter Boosts 10-60V-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081GV8KL9/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

Pelican 1150 Camera Case With Foam (Black)-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N9PQEI/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

1200W Power Supply HP Server-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GRG296X/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

4 PCS 3D Printer Cooling Fan, 40mm x 40mm x 10mm Oil Bearing-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JPBMNVL/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

40mm Black Fan Grill (4 Pack)-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MA54A8Z/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

VAM9020 Multifunctional Voltage Current Power Tester Meter Double 4-bit LED Digital Tube Display-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FKVJT2F/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

XT90-S Anti Spark Male and Female Connector Plug Set for Battery, ESC, and Charge Lead 1 Pair-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RVM8U5W/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

Invincible Marine Toggle On/Off/On Switch (Black)-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZZFY40/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

4-Pack 4mm Banana Jack Binding Post Gold Plated Female Socket Plug Terminal Connector-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V4QWXCL/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

8Pcs Viborg High End Banana Connectors 24K Gold-Plated for Cables up to 6 MM ²-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FVK5IMI/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

12 Gauge Silicone Wire 10 ft red and 10 ft Black Flexible 12 AWG Stranded Copper Wire-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABOPMEI/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

10 Gauge Silicone Wire 5 ft red and 5 ft Black Flexible 10 AWG Stranded Copper Wire-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017TGYW3S/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

(100 Pcs) MCIGICM Red 5mm LED Light Diodes, LED Circuit Assorted Kit for Science Project Experiment-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SDL14HZ/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

5pcs SPDT 2 Way ON ON Guitar Mini Toggle Switch -

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JDUB8JY/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

Heavy Duty Car Starter Relay DC 12V 100A 4-Pin WM686 Normal Open Heavy Duty Car Starter Relay for Control Battery ON/OFF RL/180-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RP5CLXC/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

1145 Round Brass Tubing, 1/8" OD x 0.014" Wall Thickness x 36" Length, Made in USA-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006NAKIS/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

10pcs Silver Tone Top Rotary Knobs for 6 mm Dia. Shaft, Potentiometer Switch Knob Top Diameter: 19mm Black A02-6mm(may need to find 1/8 inch version)-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F25NMJ7/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

I try and make it a point to lay out all parts and pieces used, even if I decide not to use them. In the pictures you will see solar diodes, I wanted to use for back feed energy from the battery. I wanted to use them as protection diodes but later decided to use a protection relay instead. After days and hours of research on the diode, I read in a post where another DIYer told the OP to use a high amped relay with a switch. I have tons of these and thought this would be a better part to use than the diodes. Too many people said to use them and to many people said not to, it would cause issues. But no-one said not to use a relay and most seem this was a great solution. In these pictures, you will just see me looking over the parts to make sure all is ready for my build. Main Components will be a 1200W server PSU, 1800 watt Boost Converter, VAM9020, and the Pelican 1150

With any project, it is very helpful to design a Pictorial or Circuit Diagram to follow when you build. If you notice, this one is pretty simple. The only part that changed, I added the relay protection, switch and a led later. Once you have your design created. Just make sure to periodically check to make sure you are following the original design. I don't know how many times, these pictorial saved me from messing up the wiring or placing a component in the wrong place. This design is actually pretty simple and very easy to follow!!

Take the case out of the box and all the foam from inside. Once complete, make sure the 2 biggest components fit. I found that I would need to remove the handle and the ac-cord lock along with the fan grill to add one later. I used a screwdriver (Philips) to remove the handle and fan grill. I had to use a Dremel to cut the lock off(not shown). Once I took those off, I placed the PSU in the Case and with the boost converter, it looks like a perfect fit for both. Now I am starting to see how this will to go together!!

This is probably the hardest part of this build and if it's done wrong, you don't have room for mistakes. First I placed the power supply in the box, marked and cut out for the plug, the led and the fan. next, I did the Boost converter. I swapped the legs and moved them to the opposite side of the heatsink and fan to the top where the board is. Make sure to use masking tape. If you measure and mark it wrong, you can always put another piece. After I swapped the legs on the boost converter, I placed the PSU in the box where it would be stationary but marked it on the top cover. This told me where and how to place the converter. The PSU would be inside the case and boost converter connected to the top. Then before I marked, I had to make sure there was clearance, so the box would close correctly. Then I marked and drilled the holes for the legs. To figure out where the holes for the Potentiometer would be, I had to screw the boost converter in place. Then I marked and drilled the holes. Then I started placing tape where I figured each component would fit. Then this is where I decided to go with the Relay as you can see in the photos. I marked and cut out the fans to circulate the air and keep the boost converter and PSU cool. I also marked and cut out the VAM9020 along with the switches. Only holes I didn't drill was the led to let me know the relay is on. I did that later when I decided where It would make the most sense. I used a hole saw for the fans and a step bit for most of the holes. I made sure anywhere I needed to drill a hole, I started with a smaller bit and worked my way up to the size I needed. After all the holes were cut I removed all the masking tape.

This will be the main power and you have to prep the PSU like it would be on in a server. Tin and solder pins 33 and 36 on the front of the PSU. Once soldered, you will need to use a 470-500 ohm resistor on either leg. Only connect one side. I connected(soldered) the resistor on leg 36. Connect the other side to the red wire that you will later connect to the switch. Solder the black wire to pin 33. Make sure to use shrinking tubes for protection. I then twisted the wires to make it look clean and soldered the opposite side of the wires to the switch, using shrinking tubes after. Plugin the Power supply and test to make sure you are getting full power. I got 12.3Volts when on. Now your Power supply is prepped for the next stage. I drilled 2 holes on the main positive and negative starting with a small bit and working it up to a 12 gauge wire size. Then I tinned each side so I could use both sides of the PSU. I then added a female XT60 connector, to 2 x 6 inches of 12 gauge, one red and one black for polarity. Then I tinned the opposite side and fit them in the holes I drilled previously. I bent them over where I tinned and soldered to the bottom of the boards. Ontop, I soldered each hole to attach the wire to the top also. Because My Relay and the small fans use 12V also. I soldered 2 more red and black wires, this time using 14 gauge. Now the PSU is prepped and ready to be installed in the case.

I wanted to make sure I used solid connectors where there were screws. So I found as many of the 12-10 gauge or yellow connectors with smaller end to fit. 3 of them I had to file a tiny bit from the side to fit the VAM9020. I also dry fit all parts, so I could cut all 12 gauge to length. Once cut, I stripped the ends, tinned and added a connector. With each connector, I soldered to the wire and added heat-shrink. Last I also decided to crip the connectors, for added stability. I also soldered a red and black wire to the relay. With this relay, positive and negative are reversible, so it didn't really matter how I soldered them. I connected the smaller switch on the positive side, along with the led. I also added more heat-shrink. I then took 10 gauge and solder a red and black wire(2 foot), to an XT90 with spark protection. The other end I soldered the audio grade banana jacks. Make sure the banana jacks you use a capable of high amp output. Finished the cable with heat-shrink.

Just to be safe, I connect a bench power supply to the boost converter and set the Voltage to 58.8V and the amps to around 2 amp. That ways, when I first connect to a battery, I can gradually up the amperage. I then solder 2 x 1/8 copper tubbing to the screw head on the Potentiometers. The best way is to tin the screw head, then add a little solder to the tub, where you will be connecting. Hold the tube over the head straight and apply heat from the soldering iron. It will melt and adhere to the screw head perfectly. Later you will apply knobs. This is great, so I don't need to desolder and add other pots later. This can be done either way. Both ways will look great no matter how you do it. Nice looking and will work very well later!!!

I started adding all the parts, starting with the Server PSU. I screwed in the fan and grill to the side and used hot glue on the inside to hold it in place. I then added the 2 fans, one in Push and the other in Pull. Adding the grill and Bolts I had laying around that fit. Once those are installed, I added the Banna plugs. Very easy and all holes lined up perfectly.

Making sure you have the Pictorial you created, making sure to connect all wiring according to the schematic. After screwing on the Boost converter, making sure the 1/8" copper tubing fit in the predrilled holes you made for the Potentiometers. You should have screwed all the connectors because once you screw on the boost converter you can not get to them. The other wire with the male Xt60 would have been connected to the in of the converter, and the wiring going to the VAM9020 would be the out. The Vam9020 basically records the power with the positive, and the negative is controlled by a 20 amp shunt in the Vam9020, to record the amps. So the T-positive will go to the Vam9020 and the other end will go to the Relay. Then from the relay, you will connect to the banana jack red side. The opposite side of the VAM9020 will have the negative that goes to the negative banana jack. The Xt60 will get connected to the XT60 from the power supply. The 12v fans along with the switch, and led will get connected on the positive side, along with the relay. The negative from the relay and led, along with the negative of the fans will get connected to the negative wire. The wires used for both connectors is the smaller wires coming from the PSU. I used a screw block for this. The power switch should have also got connected last. These connections are pretty basic and very easy to follow.

This is my favorite part, only because I know the project is almost complete and I am in the home stretch. Using Ties and hot glue, Tidy up the wiring making sure that all parts clear. Using Tin snips to clean up the ties. Once all is cleaned, make sure to use hot glue anywhere you think it may need to be covered from any kind of shorts. I also hot glued the relay in place so it does not move, along with the switches and LED. After everything is connected and cleaned up, I closed and latched the Pelican case. Last I added the Potentiometer knobs and screwed them tight.

Once I had everything completed, I plugged in the Charger and powered it on. On the display, I double-checked to see if the Potentiometers were working and they are working great!! I flipped the relay switch and when the light came on, I had power out of the banana jacks. Now the switch is Optional. Technically, I can leave the switch on all the time and with the PSU off and even if I connect a battery. Because there is no power going to the relay, it won't allow any back feed. But I wanted to add a switch, just to have a little control over the relay. That way I can plug it in and double-check the voltage before turning it on. Also, the voltage is right on the money with the VAM9020. That multimeter is off by .01, I checked with my other meters and they match the voltage to a T. Once I get my battery built, I will be able to test the amperage.

This was a great build and one of my Favorite. This can be used to charge batteries, or just a simple bench power supply that goes to 90V. Make sure when you use one like this, you keep mind of Ohms law. Make sure you don't overload the 1200watt Boost converter. It would be easy, only because the PSU is capable of 75 amps and the max input is 40, this version actually has 60 amps fuses. I don't plan on pushing it that far, only enough to charge my batteries quickly and portable. Thank you for reading and watching my videos. If I was to do anything different, I would use a bigger case and 2 server PSU in series for more output!!! This is actually part 3 of my 1500w e-bike build. On my Youtube channel, I have so many great projects coming up. Make sure to subscribe and hit the bell, or add me here. I will try and do more and more Instructables with each video. I have a 1000c adjustable soldering iron, 100watt flashlight, Hybrid PSU, Solar Generator (medium Cost build), Poor Boy 1000watt Solar Generator (300 or so$ build), tons of nice Bluetooth Speakers and sooooo Much more. I am excited to share it! I would also like to one more time than JLPCB.com for the backing to create this project!! I look forward to many many future projects!! Thanks for reading my Instructable and I can't wait to see your projects!!!

Battery this will charge is a 14S10P Triangle DIY Battery I made, which is 34ah and maxed at 68 amps. This has short circuit protection, reverse polarity protection and Overcurrent protection along with the added reverse voltage relay I put in. Capable of 90V and 20 amps adjustable Constant Current/Constant Voltage!!!