DIY 3D Printed Mechanical Cat Clock

This is a mechanical cat clock that can be entirely printed. All the parts are dimensioned to fit on build plates at least 22x22cm in size. The clock measures 48x56cm in dimensions (excluding the weight) when assembled. The weight is designed like a container that has a screw lid, which can be filled with rice or sand.

(This Clock is the actual scale of my cat)

This print job requires less than 700g of filament, which means it will cost only $15-$25 to complete.

https://youtu.be/B8HdxAMvBuM

Print settings

Layer height: 0.2mm

Infill: 15-20% (pendulum weight 80% infill)

Seam: All gears should have the seam placed in a small notch (in PrusaSlicer, the seam position should be Nearest or Aligned, in Cura it should be set to the Sharpest corner).

Post-processing

No post-processing should be necessary, but check that all gears and nuts have a smooth top surface. If not, sand down any imperfections gently.

Colour scheme

These are the filaments I used and the parts I used them for

Blue star PLA+ by wool3d

Midnight Black PLA+ by wool3d

Lubrication

Applying silicone or Vaseline with a small brush is crucial for the proper functionality of moving parts.

Remember! All the files for each step are listed below the step.

Supplies-

The model consists of 99% 3D-printed parts, so you will need a 3D printer. I used my trusty Ender 3, and if the Ender 3 can handle it, then any 3D printer should be able to print this model easily.

Super glue

Thread (I used fishing line) to hold the weight

Magnets (optional)

Screw or Nail for hanging the Cat clock on the wall

Spray Paint (Optional)

*The Distance between the hanging holes is 18 cm.

*CAT body Folder prints

"Please assemble the seven parts, including the missing piece. Each frame piece should connect easily using the eyeball connector, but be sure to avoid the elephant foot to ensure a perfect fit. These connections will hold the cat frame firmly. Add the hole connector from the backside using super glue or any other sticky substance. This will make the frame sturdy and lock it in every direction."

*Download the Files from down below for the body

*Download both files of the back connector

*Gear 10 teeth - 7 units

"Please arrange the gears in their designated positions as depicted in the provided image. after that to lock the gear in place screw the end nut"

*3D model file link below every step from now to check how gears look in 3d space and for downloading.

*Gear 10-10 teeth

*Gear 20 teeth - 3 units

(screw Magnet end nut-2 on this - (upper gear only))

*Gear 11 teeth

*Gear 22 teeth - 2 unit

(screw Magnet end nut-3 on this - (gear facing toward the head))

*Gear 30 teeth

*Gear 30-10 teeth

(bigger gear face down)

*Gear 20-10 teeth

(bigger gear face down)

(screw Magnet end nut-1 on this)

*Gear 30-20 teeth

(bigger gear face down)

*Gear 24-10 teeth

(Smaller gear face down)

(support needed while printing)

*Pulley Gear

(gear will face down while Pully will face up)

(support needed while printing)

*Gear 20-8 teeth

(Smaller gear face down)

(screw Magnet end nut-2 on this)

*Gear 80-20 teeth

(bigger gear face down)

(screw Magnet end nut-1 on this)

*Gear 20-30 teeth

(Smaller gear face down)

*Gear 35-22 teeth

(Smaller gear face down)

(support needed while printing)

*Gear 35-20

(Smaller gear face down)

*Gear 100 teeth

(The smaller gear inside the 100 teeth gear is just for looks, this smaller gear has no functionality)

*Gear 50-10

(Smaller gear face down)

(screw Magnet end nut-1 on this)

*Escapement Wheel

(Small gear face down while escapement face up)

(support needed while printing)

*Pendulum

Attach the pendulum to its desired place, and make sure to lubricate it for smoother movement.

*Pendulum Weight

1. Attach both pieces using 3d printed dowels (these are for only alignment, glue should be applied while joining the piece.
2. Slide the tail of the pendulum in the rectangular slot and screw it using a gear nut).

(support may be needed while printing (depending on your printer))

(recommend to print this in 80% infill)

*Second Clock Dial , * Minute Clock Dial , *Hour Clock Dial

Print the dials (clock face), I recommend printing with 2 colours for the numbers to look good and easy to read, or like me, you can do a spray job later on.

(Soon I will release 2-3 versions of dials, like Roman numbers dial etc.)

I have attached neodymium magnets, approximately 6mm to 8mm in diameter, to the back for easy removal of the clock face. If you prefer not to use magnets, you can simply use a glue gun to attach it. If you decide to glue them directly, you can skip putting magnetic nuts on some gears as told in the instructions.

*Clock Claws

Glue the Claws of the clock on Gear (ofc, the ones with clock dial).

(Soon I will release more claw designs, and love it if someone wants to share their claw design)

(download as per your choice)

*Weight box

After hanging the Clock on the wall.

Print this container with a lid and fill it with rice or sand. Around 500g was sufficient for me to run this clock, but this may vary depending on density and gear friction. I used a fishing line to hang the weight, but you can use any kind of thread as long as it can handle the weight. Securely tie the rope and then fasten the other end to the pulley's small hole. Next, rotate the thread on the pulley until the weight reaches the desired height. I used around 1 meter of fishing line, but this may vary depending on your wall height and other factors.

*Conclusion - Since it's a mechanical clock, the weight only provides about 10-20 minutes of runtime. I know that's very low, which is why I've already started designing an attachment that will make this clock electric without altering its appearance. Even the cables, motor, and electronics will be hidden in a way that won't be obvious, making it look like a traditional Electric clock. I'll be sharing the details of the attachment very soon.

It's very simple to do-

1. Unscrew the Gear with the claw.
2. Aligned the claw with the perfect time.
3. Slide the gear back and screw it.