DIY 1-Hour Workbench / Outfeed Table

This workbench is made from all 2x4 dimensional lumber and less than one full sheet of 3/4" plywood.

Here is the overall cut-list for the base:

8 x 28-1/8" (Legs)

4 x 37" (short braces)

4 x 67-3/4" (long braces)

I cut my top at 42" x 67-3/4". It has 2 extra inches of width in order to overhang a bracket on the back of my table saw.

I cut 8 pieces of 2x4 to 28-1/8". These will eventually become the legs, so I made sure they were all the exact same length. I used a stop-block on my miter saw to do this.

These legs are cut at a length that is equal to the height of my table saw, minus the height of the casters I used, minus the thickness of the top (3/4"). This made the workbench sit level with my table saw.

I used 2-1/2" construction screws to assemble the leg pieces at 90-degree angles. I like to use these particular screws because pre-drilling holes is not necessary-- they are excellent at not splitting the wood (honest opinion; I have no relationship with this company).

Make sure that the pieces are perfectly flush with each other so that your legs remain the same exact height.

I cut 4 pieces to a length of 37". These will become the braces on the short side of the workbench. Again, make sure they are all the same exact length-- this will help keep the workbench square.

I used 2 of the side support braces to attach 2 legs together, making sure the braces were flush with the tops of the legs. For the lower support braces, I used a scrap piece of wood as a spacer block to mark the same height on all 4 legs. Then I attached the lower support braces, using them to pull the legs straight and parallel before driving the screws in.

If you are attaching casters, now is the time to do it! I used 1-1/4" screws and washers to attach mine under each leg. Make sure your casters have a locking mechanism and that it locks both the wheels and the swivel in each caster.

The last 2x4 pieces that need to be cut are 4 pieces at 67-3/4". These will be the upper and lower long-side support braces.

I attached them the same way I attached the short-side braces-- I made sure the upper braces were flush with the tops of the legs, then used a spacer block to ensure the lower braces were level.

The dimensions of the short and long side support braces were made for my particular workshop-- you can obviously alter these dimensions to fit your space.

You'll probably want to use a clamp to help you out for this step, since the bottom of the legs won't be flush to the ground anymore with the casters installed.

Cutting the top to 40" x 67-3/4" will make it flush with the base of the workbench-- I cut mine at 42" x 67-3/4" to add an extra 2" of width. This allows it to clear a bracket on the back of my table saw and sit flush against the cast iron top.

I used a track saw but there are many different ways to accomplish this cut. A simple circular saw with a straight-edge guide would be perfectly suitable.

I used 1-1/4" construction screws to attach the top to the base. You could attach it from underneath, but I plan on beating mine up and replacing it semi-regularly, so I wanted to make that process as easy as possible by attaching it through the top.

That's all there is to it! This build can be accomplished in under an hour if you really go at it-- maybe 2 hours if you're in no rush.

Be sure to check out the video for more details of the process. I've got lots of other projects over on my channel, too: Robert J. Keller on YouTube

To see what I'm working on these days, head on over to my Instagram: @robertjkeller

Shoot me a message here, there, or anywhere if you have any questions.

Good luck!