Custom House Address Numbers

There comes a time when just getting by no longer cuts it.

My old address label on the outside of my house falls every time during a storm. Now it has got to the point that a bee will buzz by and it will fall. I used some siding clips I purchased online and I'm fed up with having to re-hang it so often. It is time for a more permanent and stylish update!

In this Instructable I will show you how I made my modern home address in the garage with a few tools and scrap metal.

Disclaimer: I realize these could be purchased online in a comparable font, but what fun is that when you can DIY? I mean, isn't that why you're here, hehe?!

1/8 - 1/4-inch thick metal plate, I used a 12x12-inch aluminum plate which will be enough for my three numbers

Drill

Saws

Metal punches

Files

Measuring tools

Scrap cardboard, to make a template

Marking tools

Scissors and/or razor knife

X-acto knife, optional for more "precise" cutting of cardboard

Sliding T-bevel tool, optional

Deburring tool, optional

Sanding tools

Anchors & screws to mount

Standoffs, optional

Hammer drill, optional, to drill into brick

Hammer

Screwdriver

[Spray]paint

Here is a video where I go from disgruntled homeowner to DIY superstar.

Pic 1 is what I had and pic 2 shows dimensions of where I want to be in terms of this address project. The piece of aluminum plate I had was 12.125 x 12.125 x 1/4-inch, which was the right amount of space I needed for my 3 numbers. I had this plate collecting dust for years in a corner and realized this was the perfect project for it. I looked it up when writing this Instructable and a comparable plate ranges from 15-25 USD on the interweb so still better than paying $60+ for a thinner premade version online, IMO.

My '1' was going to be 12 x 2.5-inches and the '4' will be 12 x 7.4-inches. Obviously your project may vary, especially if you have "wide" numbers like 444. I lucked out having 2x thin 1's and a 12x12 plate was just the right amount. Just make sure you take good measurements.

I did not want to go cutting into my aluminum without first having a sacrificial template. I had some scrap cardboard and used that to cut out my 1. This scrap overall was 2.5 x 12 inches (pic 3/4) and the length of the 1 was 1.5 inches, making the top jut out piece an inch (hopefully that makes sense, see pic 7). The 1.5 inches for the actual number number will be important for later so keep that in your back pocket for now. I also marked my divides on the aluminum for where my numbers will be cut from (pic 4).

I needed to come up with a proper angle for the top of my 1 and used both sides to come up with my options: a broad and sharp angle. For this I used my sliding T-bevel (pic 5) and made my marks (pic 6). Option 1 is the steep angle and option 2 is a more broad angle. I asked my partner what she thought and we decided on option 1.

With that decided, I cut the excess away from my 1 and started on my 4. The four's vertical part is also 1.5 inches wide so that I could use the cardboard 1 to make reproducible marks for where the bolts would go through. I wanted my OCD to quell and have all the markings on the same plane! Proper planning, you know what I mean!? We will see this again in a later step.

With the templates ready, I cut my blanks on the bandsaw to make quick work (pic 1/2). If you don't have a bandsaw, you can use a CNC or a hand saw. Aluminum is a soft metal so you have that working for you.

When the aluminum is cut from the stock, it leaves a small edge (pic 3) that could catch you off guard and leave a nasty cut. I filed those away and set them aside (pic 4). I also wanted to knock that away to keep my stock flat against the bandsaw table (pic 5).

With the blanks cut, I marked the 1's and the 4 with a fine and regular tipped sharpie (pic 6) and returned to cutting on the bandsaw (pic 7/8).

You may be wondering why go to all the trouble of marking the cardboard template when I will using a broad tip sharpie against "wavy" cardboard. For me, it is easy work to get the cut lines for the bandsaw, but also because I can use the fine tipped sharpie lines to clean everything up later with sanding and filing. The bandsaw action shouldn't be perfect nor my end product. Just like woodworkers, you gotta sand.

The last pic shows the freshly cut numbers but what to do with the inside of that 4?

I joked about a CNC earlier but that would have made this next part Soooo much easier. . .

If you have numbers with insides that need to be removed, like my 4 or an 8, you gotta get that cut off as well, and I feel for you. My original thought was to use the bandsaw to make a cut along the back of the four but that would leave a nasty gap that I couldn't accept. I suppose you TIG welders out there are like, "Speak for yourself!"

I have a scroll saw that would make quick work of removing those extras but it has been acting up lately and I didn't feel comfortable using it and risk jacking up my numbers and all the hard work thus far. This landed me to using a hand coping saw, much to my chagrin.

I punched and drilled out three holes for the coping saw to maneuver through(pics 1-3). Similarly, if you did have a scroll saw, the same process would have to happen, as well. A hand cramp later, I got the inside removed (pic 4). I saved that scrap to experiment with later, as well.

Truth be told, I actually like filing over sanding any day, but I won't bore you too much here but yeah...filing...and sanding...So. Much. Fun.

However, looking at the pics in this step should give you an idea of using various file types to get all the nooks and crannies crisp and smoothed to perfection. I used my big bastard file to do the heavy hogging and moved down to thinner & finer files after.

I tried using my "new to me" belt sander (pics 6/7) and while that worked fine, it just isn't large enough for these fellas, so I went back to hand filing (pics 9/10).

Pic 12 shows the raw numbers lined up. Being a little too bright and reflective, I decided to mar the faces up with a greenie (pics 13/14). Being raw aluminum does dull them out so you don't blind the paperboy but it also will give some imperfections for future paint to adhere to better.

The plan is to drill holes in my address numbers for my mounting screws to recess into. I will also need to drill into my house to allow the anchors to recess into. However, I want my numbers to pop, so I also bought some 1-inch nylon standoffs. Using my inside 4 scrap aluminum (pic 1), I got an idea of how to properly drill my numbers without destroying them by accidentally making my holes too large (pic 2). P6 (IFKYK). I have gone this far and didn't want to goof it up now!

Recall that cardboard 1 template I mentioned in step 1? Using that I was able to mark where my metal punch would go for the top and bottom mounting holes (pic 3/4). Having all my numbers vertical bits have the same width led me to have a very reproducible template for this action (pics 5-8).

With the holes punched, I used the drill press with a large bit to provided the recess for the screw head (pic 9). This bit will not go all the way through the aluminum thanks to the depth stop I set up. The hand drill will do the rest of the work since it was equipped with the smaller bit to allow the screw threads to penetrate all the way through (pic 10). Pic 11 shows the finished mounting holes.

I really wish I had a hammer drill for this next part because drilling into brick with a regular drill and the proper bit too ages...

But, I got it done and mounted my new large, sleek, and modern address numbers (pic 1). They looked great but even with the raw aluminum dulled out a bit, I knew then and there that they needed paint. This was especially true with the lighter colored brick my house exterior is equipped with. How is the Uber Eats person supposed to find my house in the dark with dull aluminum against an off-white brick??

Pic 2 shows a two coat paint job. Not only does it pop but it will help with corrosion resistance. I am not too too worried about corrosion thanks to the aluminum as a whole. I am sure some chemists out there are screaming, "Half reactions! Galvanic corrosion between steel and aluminum," but that is reason #3 I wanted to paint the aluminum. With that paint barrier, it will minimize electron movement between the dissimilar metals. Stay in school, kids!

I suppose even a properly painted/sealed raw iron/steel could resist the rain/snow now that I think about it. That would also reduce cost...Learn from my mistakes if you decide to go that route!

Hindsight you know?!

This project was relatively easy with a little time and patience and I absolutely love it! I still get giddy driving up to my house and seeing/knowing, "Hey! I did that!"

I went with a simple but modern font here but I would love to see what you choose to do if you decide to tackle this weekend project yourself! See you on the next one.