Crocheted Wallet With Beads

If you're just starting out with crochet and only know how to double crochet and single crochet, but want to make something a little more than just scarves and washcloths, this beaded wallet is a good beginner project.

Before you start crocheting this wallet, you string beads on the yarn. And as you crochet, you slowly incorporate the beads in a certain pattern.

You'll need:

• Yarn. I used 100% cotton "Sugar 'n Cream" yarn, which is worsted weight, for this particular Instructable, but you can also use whatever yarn you have, like regular acrylic, medium-weight Red Heart, or whatever. Just keep in mind the gauge might be different, so you might end up with a slightly larger-sized wallet.
• A crochet hook, size G.
• Scissors.
• Beads. I used tiny glass beads, but you can also use plastic pony beads.
• A needle. This is so you can string your beads on the yarn.
• A button.

String 50 beads onto your yarn with the assistance of your needle.

It took me a few tries to find a needle from my sewing box where the eye of the needle was both large enough for the yarn and small enough to slide through a small glass bead.

As you can see, I used all purple beads for the sake of this Instructable. But you can use varied-colored beads too.

Row 1: Chain stitch 21.

Row 2: In the third stitch from your hook, double crochet. Double crochet until you reach the end of the row (18 dc in all). Slip stitch once, then turn.

Row 3: Double crochet 18. Slip stitch once, then turn.

Row 4: Double crochet in the first stitch from the hook and then in the second stitch (photo one). Start a double crochet in the third stitch, but stop halfway. Slide a bead up to the current stitch (photo two) and finish the double crochet (photo three), catching the bead in the stitch.

(Note: It's important to note that the beads will only show on one side of whatever you're crocheting.)

(Note: the work is flipped over in this step and beyond so you can see the beads.)

Row 4 (continued): Double crochet in the next two stitches. Start a double crochet in the third stitch, but stop halfway. Slide a bead up to the current stitch (photo two) and finish the double crochet (photo three). Double crochet in the next two stitches. Start a double crochet in the third stitch, but stop halfway. Slide a bead up to the current stitch (photo two) and finish the double crochet (photo three). Double crochet in the next two stitches. Start a double crochet in the third stitch, but stop halfway. Slide a bead up to the current stitch (photo two) and finish the double crochet (photo three). Double crochet in the next two stitches. Start a double crochet in the third stitch, but stop halfway. Slide a bead up to the current stitch (photo two) and finish the double crochet (photo three). Double crochet in the next three stitches.

(Note: As you can see, there's a pattern. It sounds complicated, but this row (and half of the rows going forward) is really just DC2, DC+bead, DC2, DC+bead, DC2, DC+bead, DC2, DC+bead, DC2, DC+bead, DC3. That's a total of 18 DC (just like the third row), except you've added five beads that are evenly spaced throughout the row.)

Row 5: Single crochet 18.

(Note: Because all of the beaded rows face the outside, each row in between will need to be bead-free.)

(Note: We're alternating how the beads are spaced. Every alternate beaded row will have four or five beads evenly spaced throughout the rows.)

Row 6: DC in the first three stitches. Start a double crochet in the fourth stitch, but stop halfway. Slide a bead up to the current stitch and finish the double crochet (photo one). Double crochet in the next three stitches. Start a double crochet in the third stitch, but stop halfway. Slide a bead up to the current stitch (photo two) and finish the double crochet (photo three). Double crochet in the next two stitches. Start a double crochet in the third stitch, but stop halfway. Slide a bead up to the current stitch (photo two) and finish the double crochet (photo three). Double crochet in the next two stitches. Start a double crochet in the third stitch, but stop halfway. Slide a bead up to the current stitch (photo two) and finish the double crochet (photo three). Double crochet in the next four stitches.

So, in simpler terms: DC3, DC+bead, DC3, DC+bead, DC2, DC+bead, DC2, DC+bead, DC4.

Row 7: Single crochet 18. Chain one and turn work.

Row 8: DC2, DC+bead, DC2, DC+bead, DC2, DC+bead, DC2, DC+bead, DC2, DC+bead, DC3. Chain one and turn work.

Row 9: Single crochet 18. Chain one and turn work.

Row 10: DC3, DC+bead, DC3, DC+bead, DC2, DC+bead, DC2, DC+bead, DC4. Chain one and turn work.

...

Continue this alternation of single crochet, 5 beads, single crochet 4 beads, etc. until you've reached a total (this is including the first three rows we did in Step 3) of 24 rows.

...

Chain one and turn work.

Row 25: Single crochet in the first nine stitches (photo one). Chain stitch 9 (photo two). Single crochet in next stitch (photo three). Single crochet until the end of the row (photo four).

This little loop is how you'll close your wallet.

Chain one (photo one) and single crochet into the same stitch as your last single crochet. This is how you turn a corner.

Single crochet around the side in the next seven stitches (photo two).

Fold the bottom of the rectangle up to the stitch you just single crocheted. And single crochet through both layers to the end (right side of photo three). Yarn off and weave in your ends.

Then do the same thing on the other side, starting from the bottom and ending at the top (photo four). Yarn off and weave in your ends (photo five).

Sew on a button onto the front. I used a wooden toggle button for this one, but you can use any kind of button.

You can also add a little single-crocheted wristlet strap. I did that for some of my other wallets.

And that's it! I know the directions seem kind of complicated when you're reading them, but when you actually start crocheting, you'll see it's a lot easier than it sounds.

Happy crocheting!