Crochet Dragon - Smaug From the Hobbit

I'm pretty excited about the upcoming movie The Hobbit, but it's still a few months away.  So in the meantime, I crocheted my own Smaug.   He is known as Smaug The Magnificent, Smaug the Golden, the Dragon of Erebor, and Bilbo also calls him Smaug the Tremendous.  Unfortunately, I don't know yet what he will look like in Peter Jackson's movie so I based my crochet Smaug on J.R..R Tolkien's watercolour Conversations with Smaug.

While I was crocheting my dragon, I noticed that he started to look too cute, and Smaug the Chiefest and Greatest of Calamities is not cute.  To make him look more fearsome I added some extreme elements (well extreme as far as crochet goes).  I used red LEDs for the eyes and smoke and sparks rising from his nostrils.

• Yarn: yellow and two shades of red (the yarn for the spikes is weight class 4 and the primary red and yellow yarns are weight class 3 -though I'm guessing about the 3 since it is not listed on the package, it is slightly thinner than the other red)
• crochet hook (2.5mm)
• stitch marker
• fibrefill
• felt
• embroidery thread and needle
• glitter glue
• cotton ball

For the electronics:

• LEDs: two red -I bought a bunch of different colour LEDs on eBay
• LED tealight - you can find these at a dollar store
• needle nose pliers
• conductive thread - I bought mine online at Soft Circuit, you can also get it at Spark Fun,  Aniomagic, or if you live in Canada there is this place.
• optical fibres  - I found a dollar store toy that had optical fibre ( you can also find some on eBay)

I jotted down the pattern for my dragon as best as I could, I did this free hand so there was a bit of trial and error, stitching and unraveling as I went along.  I apologize, I don't have a lot of experience making my own patterns so there may be easier ways of making (and explaining) this.

We will be crocheting in spirals so use a stitch marker to mark the rounds.  For all body parts leave a long strand after you tie (fasten) off for stitching the pieces together.

Here is the nomenclature that I used (these are US stitches see link for conversion to UK):

            Rnd         round
            ch(s)       chain stitch(s)
            sc            single crochet
            dc            double crochet
            hdc          half double crochet
            tc              triple crochet
            sl st         slip stitch
            st             stitch
            sc2tog    decrease by crocheting 2 stitches together

Head
In the primary red coloured yarn crochet the head.

Rnd1: Ch 2, work 6 sc in first chain from hook (6st)
Rnd2: 2sc in each (12st)
Rnd3: 2sc in first and 6th, sc in rest (14st)
Rnd4: 2sc in first and 7th, sc in rest (16st)
Rnd5-10: Sc in each (16st)
Rnd11: 2sc in first 8, sc in rest (24)
Rnd12-14: Sc in each (24st)
Rnd15: Sc in next 6, skip next, sc next two, skip next, sc next two, skip next, sc in rest (21st)
Rnd16: Sc in next 4, skip next, sc next two, skip next, sc next two, skip next, sc in rest (18st)
Rnd17: Sc in each (18st)
Rnd18: Either sc2tog in first and 9, sc in rest (16st) if you don't plan to put any electronics into the head or Sc in each (18st) -16st looks better when you connect the head to the torso but it is too narrow to stuff the electronic components into the head.


Ears
In the primary red coloured yarn crochet the ears (make two).

Rnd1: Ch4
Rnd2: Sc in first 3, turn, ch1
Rnd3: Sc in first 2, 2sc in next, sc in rest, turn, ch 1
Rnd4: Sc in first, sc2tog next, sc next, turn,
Rnd5: Sc 2, tie off

If you are wondering the nostrils appear in step 9.

Use the primary red colour(R) and yellow(Y) for the torso.  The first round begins the neck (where you attach the head), the last round is where you attach the tail.  The body may be a bit confusing since you will be using two colours, as you increase and decrease the stitch marker for each round begins to shift.

Rnd1: Ch 17 sl st into first (16st)
Rnd2-5: Sc in each ch (16st)
Rnd6: Sc 7(R), 1 sc(Y), 8 sc (R) (16st)
Rnd7: Sc 7(R), 1 sc(Y), 8 sc (R) (16st)
Rnd8: Sc 7(R), 1 sc(Y), 2sc in next(Y), 7 sc (R) (17st)
Rnd9: Sc 6(R), 2sc in next(R), 4 sc(Y), 6 sc (R) (18st)
Rnd10: Sc 8(R), 3 sc(Y), 2sc in next(Y), 6 sc (R) (19st)
Rnd11: Sc 7(R), 2sc in next(R), 6 sc(Y), 5 sc (R) (20st)
Rnd12: Sc 9(R), 5 sc(Y), 2sc in next(Y), 5 sc (R) (21st)
Rnd13: 2sc in 5th red, red sc in rest of red, 2sc in 4th yellow, rest yellow sc in yellow sc,
             2sc in 3rd red, rest  red sc in red sc (24st)
Rnd14: 2sc in 5th red, red sc in rest of red, 2sc in 4th yellow, rest yellow sc in yellow sc,
             2sc in 3rd red, rest  red sc in red sc (28st)
Rnd15: 2sc in 6th red, red sc in rest of red, 2sc in 3rd and 7th yellow, rest yellow sc in yellow sc,
             2sc in4th red, rest  red sc in red sc (32st)
Rnd16-22: Red sc in red sc, yellow sc in yellow sc (32st)
Rnd23: Sc2tog first, rest red sc in red sc, yellow sc in yellow sc (31st)
Rnd24: Sc2tog in yellow, rest red sc in red sc, yellow sc in yellow sc (30st)
Rnd25: Sc2tog first, rest red sc in red sc, yellow sc in yellow sc (29st)
Rnd26: Sc2tog in yellow, rest red sc in red sc, yellow sc in yellow sc (28st)
Rnd27: Sc2tog first, rest red sc in red sc, yellow sc in yellow sc (27st)
Rnd28: Sc2tog in yellow, rest red sc in red sc, yellow sc in yellow sc (26st)
Rnd29: Sc2tog first, rest red sc in red sc, yellow sc in yellow sc (25st)
Rnd30: Sc2tog in yellow, rest red sc in red sc, yellow sc in yellow sc (24st)
Rnd31: One sc2tog in red, one sc2tog in yellow, rest red sc in red sc, yellow sc in yellow sc (22st)
Rnd32: One sc2tog in red, one sc2tog in yellow, rest red sc in red sc, yellow sc in yellow sc (20st)
Rnd33: One sc2tog in red, one sc2tog in yellow, rest red sc in red sc, yellow sc in yellow sc (18st)
Rnd34: Red sc in red sc, yellow sc in yellow sc (18st)
Rnd35: Red sc in all sc, tie off yellow (18st)
Rnd36: Sc2tog first, rest sc -all red, tie off (16st)

You can continue straight from the torso to the tail (Rnd1 would just be sc in each (16st)) , this will look better (more seamless).  My concern was that it would be hard to get stuffing down to the end of the tail. If you plan to make them separate just check that the tail opening is as wide as that on the torso before you proceed much further.

With the primary red yarn crochet the tail:

Rnd1: Ch 17 sl st into first (16st)
Rnd2: Sc in each ch (16st)
Rnd3-4: Sc in each sc (16st)
Rnd5: Sc2tog in first sc, sc in rest around (15st)
Rnd6-8: Sc in each sc (15st)
Rnd9: Sc2tog in first sc, sc in rest around (14st)
Rnd10-12: Sc in each sc (14st)
Rnd13: Sc2tog in first sc, sc in rest around (13st)
Rnd14-15: Sc in each sc (13st)
Rnd16: Sc2tog in first sc, sc in rest around (12st)
Rnd17-18: Sc in each sc (12st)
Rnd19: Sc2tog in first sc, sc in rest around (11st)
Rnd20-21: Sc in each sc (11st)
Rnd22: Sc2tog in first and 5th sc, sc in rest around (9st)
Rnd23-24: Sc in each sc (9st)
Rnd25: Sc2tog in first and 4th sc, sc in rest around (7st)
Rnd26-27: Sc in each sc (7st)
Rnd28: Sc2tog in first sc, sc in rest around (6st)
Rnd29: Sc2tog in first sc, sc in rest around (5st)
Rnd30: Sc2tog in first sc, sc in rest around (4st)
Rnd31: Sc2tog in first sc, sc in rest around (3st)
Rnd32: Sc2tog in first sc, sc in rest around (2st)
Rnd33-38: Sc in each sc (2st)
Rnd39: Sc2tog in first sc (1st)
Rnd40-52: ch1
Tie off
For the fork at the end of the tail:
Ch 4 sl st in 4th chain from end on the tail then ch 4 tie off.

With the primary red colour make the front and back legs (make two of each)

Front legs

Rnd 1: Ch 2, work 6sc in first chain from hook
Rnd 2-5: Sc in each st around. (6st)
Rnd 6: 2sc in first, (sc2tog)x2, 2sc in next st (6st).
Rnd 7: 2sc in first, (sc2tog)x2, 2sc in next st (6st).
Rnd 8: 2sc in first, (sc2tog)x2, 2sc in next st (6st).
Rnd 9: 2sc in next st, (sc2tog)x2, 2 sc in next st (6st).
Rnd 10: 2sc in next st, sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st (8 st)
Rnd 11: 2sc in next st, sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st, tie off (10st)

Back Legs

Rnd 1: Ch 2, work 10sc in first chain from hook
Rnd 2-3: Sc in each st around (10st)
Rnd4: 2sc in first two sts, sc in next, sc2tog x2, sc in next, 2sc in next two (12st)
Rnd5: 2sc in next st, sc in next three, sc2tog x2, sc in next three, 2sc (12st)
Rnd6: 2sc in next st, sc in next three, sc2tog x2, sc in next three, 2sc (12st)
Rnd7: Sc in first 5, sc2tog, sc in next 5 (11st)
Rnd8: Sc in first 5, sc2tog, sc in next 4 (10st)
Rnd9: Sc2tog in first, sc in next two, Sc2tog in next, sc in next two (8st)
Rnd10: Sc2tog in remaining, tie off

I used a lighter red colour for the spikes. Press flat the torso and tail and crochet into the holes running along the tops.  I added the spikes before I assembled the pieces, it is probably better to connect the torso and tail then put the spikes on so that there connection between them is more seamless.

Starting on the neck of the torso:

Sc, sc, (sc, hdc, sc in one hole), sc , sc, (sc, hdc, sc in one hole), *sc, (hdc, dc, hdc in one hole), sc, repeat from * three times, **hdc, (dc, tc, dc in one hole), hdc, repeat from ** four times, #sc, (hdc, dc, hdc in one hole), sc, repeat from # two times. Tie off or if tail is already attached continue on below.

Starting from the widest part of the tail:

*Sc, (hdc, dc, hdc in one hole), sc, repeat from *six times, **sc, (sc, hdc, sc in one hole), sc, repeat from ** three times, sc, sc, (sc, hdc, sc in one hole), sc, sc, sc until row 32 of tail, then sl st until the end.

Stuff all of the body parts with fiberfill (except for the head).  With a whip stitch, sew all of the pieces together,  leaving the head off.  Make sure the spikes on the tail torso line up.  For the wings I sewed from underneath so that they fold over.  When you sew the ears on pinch them a little at the base.

Nostrils
For the nostrils I single crochet 2 small half circles along the top front of the head with the primary red colour. I crocheted directly into the crochet holes on the head.
Starting at the Rnd1 hole of the head: make one sc, sc into the hole directly above in Rnd2, sc in same row one to the right, sl st one hole to the right, down one row .  Repeat to the left.
 
Eyes
The LEDs did not look that great on there own for eyes so I glued some black felt around them.

Mouth
I stitched a mouth with brown embroidery thread and added two teeth on both sides of the face.

Belly
Smaug's belly is covered in gems so I covered it with glitter glue.  Remember to leave the hollow of his left breast free. This is the weak spot in his armor that Bilbo discovered which ultimately led to his demise (oops -spoilers).

With needle nose pliers I turned the legs of the two red LEDs into loops.  Stick the LEDs through crochet holes on either side of the face (from the inside out).  Check the best positioning for the eyes.  Turn the head inside out and stitch together the positive poles of the LEDs with conductive thread and run the thread out the neck.  Do the same connecting the negative poles, don't let the threads cross.  I ran the stitches through the crochet loops so that the thread does not show through. Test it with battery to make sure it works.

I  used the flickering orange LED of the tealight for the sparks and conveyed it by optical fibres to the nostrils.  To simplify things, I connected the LEDs for the eyes in parallel to the circuit board of the tealight since it has it's own battery pack and on/off switch.  To do this: first remove the cover from the tea light.  Break off the excess plastic (so that it can fit into the dragon head/neck).  Connect the two thread from the LEDs to the circuit board, be careful where you attach it, on some spots the eyes will flicker as well..

I used 10 strands of optical fibre and divided it in two.  I stuffed each bundle through a crochet hole in each nostril into the head.  I then taped the two bundles together on the end inside the head and then taped it to the flickering orange LED.  I then bent the fibres up at the nostrils (be careful here they can snap off).  I then trimmed the ends to lengths varying from 0.5cm to 3cm.  I then added some bits of cotton ball so that it looks like smoke. 

Fill the inside of the head with a bit of fiberfill, try not to disturb the circuit and sew the head onto the neck, leaving an opening underneath so that you can reach the on/off switch.