Creating the Luxury Backseat Experience -- the Center Console

Center cupholders. One of the most underrated things in modern vehicles. They provide comfort for your arm on long road trips while having the functionality of holding your "apple juice". That's why when my parents bought a second car, I was extremely disappointed to discover that the rear seats didn't have the useful fold down center cupholders (only equipped on higher trims), especially since our first car -- which is 21 years old -- came with those amenities as standard. I decided to build what the manufacturer decided to cut out, but this time with more features than just an armrest and some cupholders to amplify the backseat experience. This is -- Creating The Luxury Backseat Experience Part 1, The Center Console. Hi, my name is Dak Chun and I am 16 years old and enrolled at Bergen County Technical School Teterboro. In this Instructable, I will show you how I made my own rear cupholders and how you too, can make your rear seat experience even better than riding shotgun, using parts you may already have at home!

For this project, you will need:

1. A Person
2. Phone
3. MDF
4. Ruler
5. Measuring Tape
6. Protractor
7. Cardboard
8. Staples
9. Paper
10. Pencils/Pens
11. Scissor
12. Clamps
13. Goggles
14. Mask
15. Jigsaw
16. Vacuum
17. Bricks (for elevating the surface)
18. Hole Saw
19. Drill
20. Adhesive
21. Caulk Gun
22. Painter's Tape
23. Sand Paper
24. Wood Filler
25. Primer
26. Foam
27. Double-Sided Tape
28. Paint Brush
29. Hinges
30. Faux Leather
31. Paint
32. Spray-on Clear Coat
33. Wires
34. LED Strip
35. Arduino Nano
36. ATTiny 85
37. Breadboard
38. Resistor
39. Photoresistor
40. A lot of Patience

Materials: Paper and Pencil or IPad and Apple Pencil

Before you start measuring and designing, sketch out the design you are aiming for. For example, if you want 9 cupholders, design it with 9 cupholders in mind. In my case, I designed it to fit 2 very large water bottles that were way too big for the front cupholders. I first took a picture of the rear seats and then drew over the image as if it is there. That way, it gives me a good visualization of what I'm trying to make. If you are doing this on paper, draw a top and side view of your center console and the approximate areas where you want to place your cupholders and stuff.

Keep in mind that many vehicles have air vents right where the center console is placed. So if you are going for a similar design like mine, make a cut on top (like what I did) to redirect the air upwards instead of trapping it.

Materials: Ruler, Measuring Tape, Phone

This is the step where you should take your time on. As the saying goes, you measure twice, cut once.

1. Sketch the side profile
2. Take measurements

I wanted the center armrest to rest on both the ground and the seat to give it more stability when braking (I don't want it to become a projectile during hard braking). Finding the correct angle in which the seat is tilted at required a bubble app that I had to install on my phone. If you are unsure if all your measurements are correct, no worries, that's why the next step is making a template!

Materials: Cardboard, Scissor, Pencil/Pen, Ruler, Protractor, Staples

Now that you got your measurements, it's time to make a template to ensure that your dimensions are accurate. I found a huge piece of cardboard lying around and made the side profile of the center console.

This is the most important step to ensure that everything slides in perfectly. I used the ruler to make straight edges and a protractor to get the correct angle. By taking the measurements that I made and cutting it out, a 1:1 replica of the side profile would be made. I immediately knew my dimensions were way off when I first slid it into the car. The template wasn't even touching the ground and some unexpected angles threw off my calculations. All I had to do was trim it down a bit and staple extra pieces of cardboard till it slide into place perfectly. Keep the final template on the side for later. Once everything fits, revise your measurements (if needed) and start modeling!

Option 1:

Materials: Computer

Sketching the center console was not enough for me. With a limited amount of MDF board, I had to make sure I got enough. Therefore, I designed every part of the center console and then assembled them in CAD.

Option 2:

Materials: Cardboard, Scissor, Pencil/Pen, Ruler, Protractor

What if you don't know how to 3D model? That is absolutely fine! As you have proven to yourself during Step 2 and 3, you are very capable of making a template out of cardboard, so try and make a cardboard replica! However you should keep in mind that cardboard is wayyyyy thinner than MDF so make sure to keep that in mind when designing press-fit parts.

You might have noticed that my sketch isn't exactly the 3D model I originally designed back in Step #1. This is because I realized that the cups are too big to fit in a neat row so I had to put them in a staggered pattern. That resulted in losing a mini storage compartment that I wanted. :(

Materials: None

Knowing that this project is going to stay in the car, I had to made sure it can withstand anything a car environment throws at it. For example:

• Sunlight/UV rays (unless you live in Britain)
• Water
• Heat
• Cold
• Humidity
• Scratches

What is MDF and why did I pick that instead of real wood?

MDF is an artificial wood made from wood fibers, wax, and resin. I chose MDF for this project because real wood is more expensive and prone to hiding bugs... which would be a nasty surprise. It is also more prone to rotting. MDF is cheaper, and doesn't contain any splinters. However MDF also has its own cons. For instance, it is very absorbent to water and warps in heat, just like wood. Therefore before installing it in the car, I will show you how to prep it to ensure it would last the vehicle's lifetime.

Since I have a limited amount of MDF, I have to make sure that I have enough to make all my parts. To do this, I created a drawing in SolidEdge that same size as my MDF board and inserted all of my parts onto it. By orienting the parts a certain way, I had just barely enough MDF to cram all my parts on it.

Materials: MDF Board, Pencil/Pen, Ruler

Now that I have confirmed that all parts fit, I drew them on the MDF.

1. Start by drawing your side profile on the MDF Board with the correct dimensions.
2. Overlap your template you made in Step #3 with the drawing on the MDF board to ensure that you drew it accurately.

Tips:

1. Since many of my pieces are rectangles, I used an L shaped ruler (Shown above) to make perfect right angles.
2. Label each part on the MDF (don't worry, we're gonna paint over it later) so you know which is which or else you're gonna be stuck with a whole bunch of similar looking rectangles. Not fun.
3. I would highly recommend using something soft to cushion your knees when doing this step. Knee to MDF for 1+ hours REALLY HURTS

Materials: A Person, Goggles, Mask, Jigsaw, Bricks, Ruler, Vacuum, Clamps

WARNING: When cutting MDF, please wear goggles to protect your eyes and a mask (N95 or respiratory) to prevent breathing in the airborne wood particles.

1. Place the MDF board on bricks to elevate it when cutting.
2. Use the Jigsaw to trace the drawings on the MDF board.

Make sure that there are no bricks underneath the path that you cutting. Double check! Triple check!

Tips:

• You should clamp a straight edge (like a ruler) to the board so you can use it to guide the jigsaw when cutting.
• There would be a lot of buildup as you cut which would make you lose sight of the line you are trying to trace (done that a few times). Have a person run a vacuum near the blade to remove any shavings in order to keep a clear view of the line.
• Since the blade has its own thickness, make sure to aim the blade slightly offset the line to prevent cutting into your piece.

Materials: Drill, Hole Saw

WARNING: When the hole saw makes contact with the MDF, it is strong enough to twist the entire drill. Have a strong grip on the drill when cutting the hole.

To cut out perfect holes in the MDF, I used a 4 inch hole saw connected to a drill to drill out the perfect cupholders for the oversize water bottles.

Materials: Sand Paper

Sand down the edges of all your pieces to make sure that the adhesive can preform at its maximum capability.

Materials: None

It's time to make sure the most important pieces fit the vehicle before proceeding.

Materials: Pen/Pencil

It's time to place all your pieces in their respected places.

1. Put your main piece on the ground. (in my case it would be the side profile)
2. Put all your pieces in their respected places.
3. Trace around each piece to make gluing a lot easier

This is the time for you to make any adjustments you wish. Once you glue it in, it's final.

Materials: Adhesive, Caulk Gun

For this part, I would be using Loctite PL Premium 3X Polyurethane Construction Adhesive.

1. Place the adhesive in the caulk gun
2. Cut the tip of the adhesive seal
3. Put a strip of adhesive where you traced the board
4. Use a scrap piece of MDF to smear the glue to maximize the contact area
5. Place the respective piece down and press it down
6. Use weights or clamps to keep everything compressed
7. Scrap away any excess glue on the side using some scrap MDF
8. Wait for it to fully cure

Please Note: The next step is priming all MDF surfaces (Inside and Out). This is to prevent ANY moisture from getting absorbed. Ensure that when you assemble it all together, there are no pieces blocking your access to any surfaces. If you don't have that issue, skip to Step #16.

I am suppose to glue ALL my pieces together and then prime it. My issue is that some inner surfaces (the red box) cannot be primed when the final piece is put on. Since the primer would act like a barricade to the adhesive, I have to make sure that any surface coming in contact with the adhesive is primer-free.

Materials: Painter's Tape

1. Put painter's tape on the surfaces where you expect adhesive to come in contact with
2. Prime all your pieces (Step #16)
3. After you primed all your pieces and everything had dried, remove the painter's tape and continue Step #13
4. Wait for the adhesive to dry and continue off at Step #17

After gluing everything together, make sure to vacuum the surfaces where the primer would come in contact to. Now it's time to prime the center console!

Is priming important? Yes...very.

Materials: Paint Brush, Primer

Apply primer on the entire center console (inside and out). This ensures that no moisture can be absorbed into the MDF. This protects the center console from humidity. Priming the MDF also prevents it from absorbing paint when you start painting.

• First apply the first layer of primer onto the MDF (I used KILZ 3 Multi-purpose Water-based Wall and Ceiling Primer)
• Wait for it to fully dry (in my case 1 hour) and then apply a second coating
• Wait for it to fully cure

Now is the moment of truth...making sure everything fits.

Materials: A Person

Here is what many would consider the climax of the project. Are your measurements correct? Did any slight imperfections cost you the entire project? Well that's why Step #17 is here. Grab a person to help you install it in the car if it's too heavy.

If everything fits, it is now time for the customization. Painting!

If it doesn't, you still have the chance to modify the console. Just make sure that after you do so, repeat Step #16

Materials: Paint, Painter's Tape, Paint Brush

Paint it any color you wish. In my case, I went for a 2 tone paint job to match it with the rest of the interior. That way, it looks like a factory option.

Since you have primed it already, you can use almost any type of paint and it would stick. (I said "almost" because water based and oil based paint would guarantee stick... not sure about other paints)

• Apply the first layer of paint
• Apply a second coating of paint
• Apply a third coating of paint

Note: Make sure that it is fully dried between each coating. (especially the last one)

You might be wondering "Why do you apply so many coating of paint?". This way, the color is more bold and the paint would be less likely peeled. If you want to take the Rolls-Royce route, you can apply 20 coats of paint.

After you finished applying the number of coats you desire, it is time to apply a UV protective clear coat.

Materials: Wood Filler, A Lot of Patience

I ran into a slight problem when gluing everything together. Since I don't have access to a laser cutter, I had to cut all the pieces by hand, which resulted in some uneven cuts. When I glued the final pieces in place, it wasn't long till I noticed some very noticeable gaps between the cupholders and the body of the center console. To solve this minor issue, I took a quick trip to Lowes and bought some wood filler. It is basically a wood putty that you smear into any gaps/screw holes. I added them into the gaps and smoothed it out.

1. After patching up the gap, wait for the suggested time on the side of the container (in my case it's 6 hours)
2. After it dried, primed and painted the wood filler

Remember, patience is key...

WHY IS IT 6 HOURS!!!!! AGGGGGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

Materials: Hinges

I purchased a pack of 2 2-inch hinges and screwed them into the armrest lid, 1 inch from both ends.

Tip: You should first drill a hole to prevent the MDF from cracking when inserting the screw.

Materials: Foam, Double-Sided Tape, Faux Leather, Staples

Now it's time to make the armrest. Keeping your elbow on a hard MDF board, especially on long road trips, isn't what I would consider riding in comfort. To add some padding, I sliced some soft foam and use double-sided tape to secure them onto the entire armrest section. I found some faux leather online to cover up the foam to match with the rest of the car's interior. By folding the leather underneath the armrest and stapling it to the MDF, it gives it a much more cleaner look up top.

Materials: Clear Coat

This is a very important step. The clear coat protects both the MDF and paint from the extreme heat and UV rays. It would also provide waterproofing for the MDF which is great if you have kids. In this case, I used "Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Crystal Clear Spray Paint".

WARNING: When applying the clear coat, do it in a well ventilated area (like an open garage). The smell is terrible and toxic. Exposure to it in a enclosed area may cause irritation to the eyes and breathing issues. The gas is also flammable so don't do it near open flames.

Before starting, I used some plastic to cover up the armrest to prevent any clear coat from coming in contact with the leather.

• Apply the first coating and wait around 2-4 hours
• Apply a second coating and wait around 2-4 hours
• Finally apply the final coat and wait 24 hours for it to cure completely

When it's dry, the board should be shiny (unless you got the matte version) and kinda grippy. The clear coat would protect the console from water, UV rays, and scratches.

This is the part where you add any additional features to your center console. Here are the features that I added:

Phone Pocket: Step #24

Ambient Lighting: Step #25-#38

Foam Cupholder Base: Step #39

Leather Lined Cupholders: Step #40

Carpet Base: Step #41

Materials: Faux Leather, Ruler, Staples

Adding a phone pocket is a relatively easy step. We are going to make it out of faux leather from the armrest. Then staple it to the side of the console for easy access. I made the width wider than my phone so I have enough leather to staple to the MDF.I made the height of the leather 3/4 the height of my phone so that I can grab it out easily. By cutting out 1 inch by 1 inch cub at the bottom left and bottom right corners, it would prevent wrinkles when the sides and the bottom meet.

Since the car oddly comes with ambient lighting as standard but not rear cupholders, I thought integrating some ambient lighting with the center console would complete the final look. I want the ambient lighting to only turn on when it gets dark enough to be seen. There are 2 options with powering the light. Each has their own pros and cons.

Option 1: Use an external power bank

Pros: Simpler to make

Cons: Have to replace the battery every so often

Option 2: Use the car's power

Pros: Never worry about charging the batteries

Cons: You have to run wires throughout the vehicle

I decided to go for Option 2 because changing the batteries would be a hassle. I would also be using this chance to get the LEDs to light up the inner storage compartment of the center console.

Alright, here is where the fun starts! To make this, I would need:

1. Photo Resistor: A sensor that detects when it is dark or bright
2. LED Strip (WS2812B): A strip of LEDs for the ambient lighting and storage light
3. Attiny85 20PU: A programmable chip
4. Arduino: A mini programmable device. However in this case, I used an Arduino Nano to test and program the Attiny85 20 PU.
5. USB-C cable/12 Volt Car Charger: To get power from the car's battery
6. Wires
7. Solder
8. Perf Board
9. Breadboard

This is quite the simple step. The analog pin would read the photoresistor value. The program (Step #30) would see which part of the program is true for that photoresistor value. The digital pin would send that program to the LED strip's data line so it can preform it. The 5 volt power supply is connected to the 5V line of the LED strip. The ground is connected to both the Arduino's GND and LED's GND.

I lined up the LED strip against the side of the center console and marked where it reaches the end. For me, it was 47 LEDs. For the storage compartment, I used 7 LEDs on each end. In total, I was working with 108 LEDs. Since these LEDs can be stringed together, I cut the LED strip into 4 pieces.

1st piece: Left Side Main Ambient Lighting (47 LEDs)

2nd piece: Right Side Main Ambient Lighting (47 LEDs)

3rd piece: Front Compartment Lighting (7 LEDs)

4th piece: Rear Compartment Lighting (7 LEDs)

I measured out the length of wires needed to route throughout the console and soldered them together.

Tip: Make sure that you follow the mini black arrows on the LED strip (2nd image). The data only goes in that direction. If you input the data against the LED's arrows, it won't turn on.

Materials: Double Sided Tape, LED Strip, Drill, Wires, Solder

I used double sided tape to tape onto the side of the console. To make the wires flow neatly, I drilled some holes to feed the wire throughout the console.

Materials: Breadboard, Wires, ATTiny 85, Photoresister

I will be using the library "FastLED" for this part.

The Arduino Program itself is quite simple:

1. Read the photoresistor value
2. If <550 turn lights on
3. If ≥550 turn lights off

However when I ran that code, there was a problem. If the brightness is right around 550, the LEDs would flicker and "dim" like crazy because the Arduino is turning on and off the LED strip very quickly. Therefore I had to add some hysteresis to prevent that.

Attached is the final program for the ambient lighting:

Materials: Breadboard, Wires, ATTiny 85, Photoresister, Arduino

After I tested that everything works, I transferred all the files onto the ATTiny 85 (ATTiny 85 diagram above) and tested it once more to ensure it all works properly by covering the photoresistor with my finger to activate the lights (See video attached).

Here is a very helpful video that taught me how to transfer the program to the ATTiny 85: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_MhVSlMZI8&t=147s

Materials: Perf Board, Solder, Wires, ATTiny 85

I transferred all my components onto a perf board and soldered them on. I then retested to make sure everything works. (Image attached...don't mind the mess of random wires. I just used them for a stable connection)

Materials: Staple

After everything is successful, I stapled the photoresistor facing upwards towards the roof of the car. That way, it can accurately turn on and off the LED strip depending on its environment.

Materials: USB C Cable, Solder

I will be using a phone USB C cable generously donated to me by my brother to power the ATTiny 85. I snipped off the head of the USB C cable and stripped it to expose the 3 wires: White, Green, Red, and Bare Metal.

White: Data Wire

Green: Data Wire

Red: Positive (+)

Bare Metal: GND (-)

Since the LEDs and ATTiny 85 requires 5 volts and the car's USB C port already provides 5 Volt, I don't need any resistors to drop down the voltage. It was perfect. Here is where you should solder the wires:

Bare Metal to the GND of the ATTiny 85 and the GND of the LED Strip.

Red wire to the ATTiny 85 and the 5V of the LED Strip.

White and Green wires go to nowhere cause they are data wires

It turns out that the output of the USB C ports that I planned on using in the car required some sort of confirmation before it sends out 5 volts. Since I don't have that "confirmation", the vehicle stubbornly refuses to give me the juicy 5 volts I needed. It instead gave me a pathetic 0.7 volts which is nowhere near enough to power the ATTiny 85 (Needs between 1.8V to 5.5V).

Luckily, I discovered a sneaky 12 volt socket in the trunk of the car and a very long 12 volt car charger. You might be wondering, wait..12V>>>5.5V wouldn't it burn out the ATTiny 85? First, yes. Second, after closer inspection on the 12 volt car charger, it said that it converts the input of 12V to 5V which is EXACTLY what I needed. After snipping the cable, I was overcome with joy when I saw two very simple wires: black and white. No Data Wires!!!

Oh boy... take two. I desoldered the USB C cable and solder the new cable in.

White: Positive

Black: Negative

MUAHAHAHAHAHAHA after plugging it in, IT FINALLY WORKS!!!!!!! Oh... also means I ruined a perfectly good USB C cable...

To keep the glass bottle from breaking if the car goes over a pothole, I used some extra pieces of foam to cut out the base of the cupholders. Although it's not the prettiest, it gets the job done and nobody would see it. It fits diagonally across the entire base without room to spare to prevent it from shifting.

Materials: Faux Leather, Ruler, Double Sided Tape

To prevent damage to the bottle over uneven grounds, I decided to line the cupholders with leather to soften up the sides.

1. Cut the leather to the same width and circumference of your cupholders
2. Line the edges with double sided tape
3. Carefully stick the leather to the tape

Materials: Carpet/Faux Leather

The storage I made is meant to store stuff... duh. However the base of the storage box is hard MDF which would cause the stuff to rattle inside when the vehicle is moving. That would cause damage to both the console and stuff inside in the long term. To solve this, I found some unused carpet and cut it out to the same dimensions as the base (You can use the faux leather from before). It would now provide a cushion for the stuff inside and protects the console (mainly hides the wires running the ambient lighting).

Materials: A Person

Use a person to help you finally install it in rear of the car. In order for the power wire to reach the trunk of the car, I had to fold down the seats and feed it into the rear. I tucked the wires underneath the seat cushions for a clean look. Now stand back and admire your hard work.

1st Video: When the interior got bright enough, the LEDs would automatically turn off

2nd Video: When the interior got dark enough, the LEDs would automatically turn on

You have successfully reached the end of this Instructables. Phew! After 43 steps and countless mosquito bites, this project taught me more about woodworking, electronics, and programming than I could have ever imagined: from cutting the boards to the steps of priming and painting and wiring and soldering, this taught them all. This took about a month to complete and around $250.00 in supplies but the experience is what really mattered. With summer coming to a close and senior year of high school coming to an open, I couldn't add all the features I wanted. However, this is surely not the end. Next, I would be integrating a fold out table and wireless charger onto the center console to make the backseat even more practical. Until then, you should probably clean up all the mess you have made for the past few weeks... good luck!

Here are the links to the materials/tools that I used (or similar):

1. Clamps: https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/clamps-vises/18-in-ratcheting-bar-clampspreader-64151.html
2. Goggles: https://www.harborfreight.com/safety-glasses-clear-99762.html
3. Mask: https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-Reusable-Sanding-Valved-Safety-Mask/1000244145
4. Jigsaw: https://www.lowes.com/pd/SKIL-6-Amp-Variable-Speed-Keyless-Corded-Jigsaw/5014178167
5. Hole Saw: https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drill-driver-bits/hole-saws-sets/34-in-5-in-carbon-steel-hole-saw-set-18-pc-57524.html
6. Drill: https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-20V-MAX-2-Tool-Brushless-Power-Tool-Combo-Kit-with-Soft-Case-2-Batteries-and-Charger-Included/5014148639
7. Adhesive: https://www.lowes.com/pd/LOCTITE-PL-Premium-3x-Brown-Polyurethane-Interior-Exterior-Construction-Adhesive-Actual-Net-Contents-10-fl-oz/1000194201
8. Caulk Gun: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-10-Oz-Rod-Caulk-Gun/5002727809
9. Painter's Tape: https://www.lowes.com/pd/ScotchBlue-1-88-in-x-60-yd-Painters-Tape/1003202270
10. Sand Paper: https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-SandBlaster-Pro-5-Pack-9-in-W-x-11-in-L-80-Grit-Premium-Sandpaper/1000065497
11. Wood Filler: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Stainable-Wood-Filler/999914235
12. Primer: https://www.lowes.com/pd/KILZ-Premium-Interior-Exterior-Multi-Purpose-Water-Based-Wall-and-Ceiling-Primer-Actual-Net-Contents-128-oz/50252049
13. Double-Sided Tape: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gorilla-Double-Sided-Tape-8-yd/5005552733
14. Hinges: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-2-in-Satin-Nickel-Mortise-Door-Hinge-2-Pack/50056459
15. Faux Leather: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BY8RVRQ2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
16. Spray-on Clear Coat: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-Custom-Spray-5-in-1-6-Pack-Satin-Clear-Spray-Paint-NET-WT-12-oz/5014738421
17. ATTiny 85: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/microchip-technology/ATTINY85-20PU/735469
18. Arduino Nano: https://store.arduino.cc/products/arduino-nano?srsltid=AfmBOorXTTYUFMSDDPywnADM0K-BDvdtaC0krnoOIF_ujaAOVrgGZCCM
19. LED Strip: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ws2812B-5050Smd-144-Led-Light-Strip-with-Built-In-Rgb-Ic-Individual-Addressable-Dc/2602573552?classType=REGULAR
20. Photoresistor: https://www.adafruit.com/product/161