Cord Organizer Desk

I had always been had a problem with was managing all the cords I own: 2 laptop chargers, one 3' long micro USB B cord, and a 4.5' USB type C cord. It easily becomes quite a mess takes up a lot of space around, and influences the location of other objects on my desk when multiple of them are in use. This is why I had created a desk set that focuses on organizing cords.

One if my goals of this design was to have it be made of natural materials and look similar to my desk at home. Other than the fact that my desk only consists of horizontal and vertical edges, the wooden desk on the right side kind of resembles my desk at home. The rectangle cuts on that desk are also an idea I borrowed for my design as well. The white and brown colors on the other desk shown was the type of color combination I was going for because it has a very natural and bright look to it.

From the very beginning, I had the idea of using the same styled cord wrap as the white cord organizer shown here because it can be adjusted whenever. This type of wrap is used for large cords such as laptop chargers, and my plan was to have them attach from a bar, which the hole designs was an idea I had borrowed from a person in this contest who posted their design already. The small cord clips are meant to help organize where the cord ends are placed, especially useful when a cord is used often but just not in use at that moment. I had also come up with the idea of a small post-it and pencil container because I often take notes and end up placing pencils and pens all over my desk.

This desk is an 54"x28"x8" glossed oak desk. As said before, I had wanted this desk design to resemble my current desk. Both my desk and this desk have two drawers and a built-in hole for a power source. I had added a small raised top on the opposite end with a rounded, rectangle-shaped cut into it. If you look on the back side, I had the top half rise over the bottom, so then when plugs are attached onto the power source and the desk happens to be pushed onto a wall, the cords will not get damaged.

The desk legs are designed with the purpose that screws are actually unneeded to install them, though of course, if wanted they can always be installed. Although it is not shown here, because the desk has two varying heights for the leg locations, two legs will be 5 inches taller than the others, but other than that, the two types of legs look exactly the same. The two heights are 27.25" and 32.25". The two pegs on the top are there to help the leg stick there a bit better.

The post it box is made of glossed oak, same as all the other wooden pieces. The bottom is of white soft rubber to allow sliding and varying arrangements on the rectangle cut of the desk or to stand alone and not shift easily. The rounded extrusion cuts on the sides of the box are to allow a firm, one-handed grip on the box, useful when moving the box from place to place.

This bar is made of white cast stainless steel, although the white does not really show much. Honestly, the only reason why the hexagons have their point pointing upwards is because that was the only way how I was able to create the bar drawing without Fusion 360 crashing. There is a hole on each corner of the bar to allow it to be screwed on the desk. The reason why it is so is because if a customer wants to have the bar set very high, or low, they can attach it there, or if they want to use it somewhere else, they can do so.

Same as the bar, this attachment is made completely of cast stainless steel. The small edge on the outer side of this piece allows for the cord to be easily removed when wanted. The dark parts are metal and the white parts are made of rubber to ensure the attachments stay on the bar.

This clip is made of white-dyed silicone and on the bottom, has a thick adhesive to allow it to stick onto the desk. To make this, I had created a revolve to create the main body, and then made a hole right in the middle of the body to cut and make a tapered hole through the whole body. After that I had created a drawing on the top to make the hole seem more clean and smooth, then clean up the cut I made with that drawing by filleting the edges.

Although this shows only one set up, more attachments can be added and set up. In this picture, I used only added the minimal number for each piece, one of each attachment and 4 legs. As shown, everything fits in very nicely and there are no space for gaps in this design, other than the holes of the hexagons and screws, of course.