Concrete Coffee Table

Hello Makers,

Today I will show you how I made a concrete coffee table.

After looking online at countless coffee tables, I was unable to find something that would work for my space. So I decided to build one.

Please follow along with the instructions below and reference the included video.

Tools:

• Track Saw
• Table Saw
• Miter Saw
• Biscuit Joiner
• Tape Measure
• AutoCAD
• Pencil
• Cordless Drill and 1/8" Drill Bit
• Clamps
• Concrete Mixing Tub
• Trowel
• Ratcheting Straps
• Masking Tape
• Palm Sander
• 60/100/150/220 Grit Sandpaper
• Rag
• Paint Brush
• Plastic Sheeting
• Rubber Mallet

Materials:

• Maple Hardwood
• Concrete Mix
• Remesh
• Melamine Board
• Screws
• Wood Glue
• Tung Oil
• Satin Polyurethane
• Silicone
• Biscuits for Joinery
• Mini Floor Protectors

I created a 3d model using AutoCAD. Cad is optional - napkin sketch is just as good :)

I knew I wanted concrete to be the focal point for this design. I like the rustic look of it. The leg design is something simple and tasteful. The lighter color of the wood next to the concrete really makes this table stand out in my opinion.

From my model I was able to extract all the dimensions I needed for construction.

Melamine is used for the concrete form because of its smooth surface and it will not absorb any moisture (easy release after setting).

Using a table saw I ripped the side rails out of some scrap 1/2" melamine.

A miter saw was used to cut the rails to the proper length.

I purchased 1/4" thick melamine for the base, it was the cheaper option and will do the job. The base was cut to size using a table saw.

I clamped the side rails to the base and drilled pilot holes. I fastened them together using wood screws.

Apply masking tape to inside perimeter of the form - to the base and the side rails (see picture).

Silicone the inside perimeter.

Evenly spread the silicone with your finger.

Let the silicone dry and remove the tape.

The silicone will give a nice fillet edge to the concrete.

Wipe on a wax finish to entire inside surface for easy mold release.

Mix concrete in a tub.

Fill form to the half way point and place in the remesh. Remesh will increase the tensile strength of the concrete.

Fill to the top.

Vibrate out the air bubbles trapped in the cement by tapping all around and on the bottom of the form with the rubber mallet.

Trowel smooth.

Cover with plastic sheeting to allow for gradual curing. This will also prevent any cracking.

I reclaimed some old maple butcher block for the legs. A fella on marketplace was selling these on the cheap. Scooped it up in a hurry!

Ripped the maple with a track saw.

Cut to length and mitered corners with the miter saw.

Cut slots with a biscuit joiner.

Chamfer inside edges with table saw blade tilted at 45 degrees. This is for aesthetics only.

Spread wood glue on mating surfaces and inside biscuit slot. Insert biscuits and assemble.

Use a ratchetting strap and wood clamps to hold together. Wipe excess wood glue and let dry.

Sand entire base with 100/150/220 grit.

Wipe clean and apply three coats of satin polyurethane.

Remove concrete from the form.

The concrete came out nice. Low amount of air pockets on the top while the sides had slightly more pitting. I like the look of it.

I wanted to expose the aggregate of the concrete, so I sanded with 60 grit until I was happy with the look of the surface. Continued sanding with 100/150/220 grit.

Blow dust off with compressed air and wipe clean.

Apply two coats of tung oil. Wipe excess oil off with a rag after applying. Let dry. The tung oil gives the concrete a nice even dark color.

To completely seal the concrete I applied two coats of polyurethane. The tung oil and sealer helped in filling the small voids.

Apply mini floor protectors onto the top of the base.

Place concrete onto the base. The concrete is heavy enough that it will not budge.

All done!

Be sure to reference the attached video. (Subscribe if interested - it motivates me to keep making content)

Thank you for following along!