Concealment Cabinet With Wall Art From Scrap Plywood

I had some scrap 23/32 sanded plywood left over from another project that I wanted to use it up (and hopefully make a little extra money). I decided to make a Concealed Cabinet behind some basic wall art. It was a big hit and after a couple versions I found one that sells decently. The less colorful box in this image set is the original. The American Flag Sky is the one I built to document this Instructable.

Many things can be concealed in these cabinets. I have illustrated one example with this toy gun. But that is only limited by your imagination. :)

You may notice in the pictures throughout this process that I did a couple things in a different order than in the text below. That's is because I would get hyper-focused and forget I was trying to document for an Instructable, and then go back and take the pictures or do a skipped step. Not everything has to be done in order, but some things do. I laid out the steps in the best way I could to make the build as easy as possible for you. Feedback is welcomed. As this is a first time for me, please be gentle. :)

Materials:

I used scrap 23/32 sanded pine plywood, but any plywood will work. Common types include 3/4 inch sanded maple, birch, or other types at your local home store if scraps are not available. I recommend using as close to 3/4 as possible because of strength and the need for the types of fasteners used. In making this Instructable, I used a 2ft x 4ft piece of of sanded pine I picked up damaged at Lowe's for a 45% discount. I made 2 at the same time and ran out of materials, before making the lid frame, but that amount of material is more than enough to make one complete box.

• You'll need approximately a 24 inch by 48 inch sized piece of plywood, or other scraps to accommodate the measurements in the cut list below.

I also used:

• 1 inch Pocket hole screws
• 1 inch brad nails
• Multiple grit sandpaper
• Rare Earth (neodymium) magnets 19mm (0.75 inch) x 3 mm (0.12 inch) (qty 2)
• 2.5 inch butt hinges (2 pk)
• Child safety magnetic cabinet latch with factory key (1 set)
• Various color stains (listed in their respective steps)
• Tite-bond II Wood Glue
• Fast setting epoxy
• Scrap cedar board or fence picket (5/8' x 5.5" x 6ft) - optional
• 3/4" x 1 1/2" x 6ft - optional (commonly known as a 1x2)

Tools:

I recommend the following tools, but some substitutions might be possible.

• Tape Measure
• Carpenters Square
• Combination Square
• Table saw (or circular saw in some cases)
• Miter Saw (or miter box and hand saw)
• Power Drill
• Power Driver (or screw driver).
• Dremel (with router base) or Palm router, and a 1/2 inch straight bit; can be substituted with a chisel or rasp/file
• Pocket hole Jig (I used the Massca M2, but any pocket hole jig would work)
• 20 mm forstner bit
• Box blade (razor blade)
• Random Orbital Sander (or sanding block) and sanding pads
• stain applicator rags & brushes
• Painters tape

To start we need to cut out the following main pieces. Cuts are explained and listed below. Unless otherwise noted, thickness on these measurements is based on the material/plywood you have, but assume 3/4 inch in this Instructable:

• Back plate (x1) - 14" long x 9" wide
• Box frame A - Horizontal (x2) 15 1/2" long x 3.5" wide
• Box frame B - Vertical (x2) 9" long x 3.5" wide
• Lid (x1) - 16" long x 11" wide
• Lid frame A - Horizontal (x2) - 1 1/2" (wide) x 17 1/2" (long)
• Lid frame B - Vertical (x2) - 1 1/2" x 12 1/2" (long)

*Note: Length/Long assumes grain direction. Wide/Width is across the grain

Start by using the Table Saw or circular saw to rip the length and cross cut the width of the back plate to 14" x 9"; and lid to 16" x 11", considering grain direction. I preferred to have the grain flowing horizontally for this project. Ensure both the Back plate and Lid are cut with this in mind and match grain direction.

Next, using a table saw, rip lengths at 3.5 Inches wide to account for all four sides of the box. These rips can be cut to their appropriate lengths using the miter saw (or a miter box and hand saw). Be mindful that the box frame B (vertical) sides will be the width of the back plate, and the box frame A (horizontal) pieces will be the length of the back plate AND the thickness of both box frame B pieces. That width will vary based on the type/thickness of plywood used, so measure this on the spot before cutting. Mine was 3/4, but if you have 23/32 you'll need to shorten your lengths to make sure everything is square and even around the box.

Next, using a table saw, rip lengths at 1.25 Inches wide to account for all four sides of the Lid. These rips can be cut to their appropriate lengths using the miter saw (or a miter box and hand saw). Be mindful that the Lid frame B (vertical) sides will be the width of the lid, and the lid frame A (horizontal) pieces will be the length of the lid AND the thickness of both lid frame B pieces. Again, that width will vary based on the type/thickness of plywood used, so measure this on the spot before cutting. Optionally, you can use pre-cut 1x2s (3/4 x 1.5 inch) strips either made or bought separately.

It is a good idea to dry-fit your pieces to make sure they are even and square. Dry-fit is where you just place all the pieces where they go and identify any adjustments before assembly or other steps that might be more difficult to change later.

Another Option, for your lid frame pieces, the cut-list above allows for butt-joints. These work just fine. If you'd like something that looks more professional you can cut them about 1.5 inches longer and add a 45 degree miter (that will look more like a picture frame). This isn't required though.

The strength behind the assembly of the box is in pocket holes. While many will wood workers argue against them for most applications, they are more than sufficient for this one. If someone is truly trying to break into this box, the magnetic latch (made of plastic) and screws supporting the hinges will fail long before the pocket holes do. So rest easy my friends.

We will only put pocket holes in 4 pieces: the back plate, the two back plate frame B (vertical) pieces, and the lid (you can skip the lid and just do brads and glue here if preferred). Look at your lid and your back plate and determine which side looks nicer. That will be your "face", or the side that will always be visible. The other side will be your "back". Ensure your pocket holes are drilled into the "Back" of each of those pieces. You can use a pencil to mark these with F or B and sand away later so you don't forget.

Back Plate:

For your back plate, you will need 2 pocket holes on each width (vertical side) and 3 pocket holes on each length (horizontal side). In the pictures I did more, but after several iterations I've learned that I don't need that many. I do suggest for the width, inset from the corners by about 3 inches to keep from having conflicts with other pocket holes on other sides/pieces and leave room for brads during assembly. The Length side should also be inset by about 3 inches from the corners, with a 3rd in the center. You can repeat this for the lid.

Box Frame B:

For the 2 box frame B (vertical) pieces, you will need to put 2 pocket holes on each end of the piece. Make sure you put those pocket holes on the same side (Back) and the ends of each piece, 4 total, two on each end. We don't want to have them on the exterior of the box... for cosmetic and security reasons.

Once both pieces are done, you can put that pocket hole jig away. Clean-up any tear-out in the pocket holes before assembly. I usually use a box blade to trim them up. It doesn't need to be perfect, but get the big stuff out before sanding.

Optionally:

You can take this opportunity to use a Dremel, palm router, file/rasp, or chisel to create the notch for the hinges on the lower Box Frame A (horizontal) piece. I used a Dremel with a router base and a straight cut bit to free-hand these notches the same size as the hinges. Mine start about 3 inches from the edge on either side. I actually did this one out of order (I forgot until a later step), so better more instructions are in step 8 below.

Lastly, be sure to lightly sand all sides of all pieces to at least 220 grit to get a nice smooth surface for glue and stain. A random orbital sander will make this job very quick, but some good old elbow grease will work just fine as well. I use my sander to take the sharp edges off the corners. Wipe away all dust with a rag and/or tack cloth.

It's time to start putting pieces together! Lets start by assembling the box.

Box:

Lay the back plate on a clean flat surface with the pocket holes facing down. Put a thin even coat of wood glue around the edges of the back plate (optional, but creates a good seal between the pieces). Take the frame pieces and place them around the back plate to create the rough assembly of the box. Use a couple of brad nails on each side to hold the back plate in place, avoiding the areas where the pocket holes are. Ensure the frame piece pocket holes are on the inside of the box and place together so the corners are flush with the box frame A pieces. Avoiding the pocket holes, put a couple brad nails through piece B into piece A and against the back plate on each end. This is to hold the pieces together while pocket holes screws are installed to keep the parts from shifting out of alignment.

Flip the box assembly over and install your pocket holes to the back plate. Wipe away any glue squeeze out. Flip the box assembly back over and install your pocket holes to the box frame pieces. Wipe away any glue squeeze out and set the assembly aside.

Note: to make this step easier, I use either a jig with a square "fence" or my table saw fence. This is just to gives me something to push against and maintain shape while installing your pocket hole screws.

I did this step in stages.

Lid:

First, I painted the face of the lid with a Navy color. This will be the sky as we build upon the project. Then I took a Barn Red color and a 1.5 inch chip brush and used a semi "dry brush" technique to streak the sky with red stripes, leaving room for clouds in-between. Then I used tinsmith grey and the same brush technique to create the white/cloud stripes. A white color will work here as well, but I like the subtlety that the tinsmith grey gives over the brightness of a true white. I wanted an unfinished streaking look for my stripes. I did let this dry over the course of a couple hours to ensure the stains didn't blend together.

Box, Lid back, and Lid frame:

I used a scrap piece of plywood to test the box and frame stain (the espresso) and make sure I liked the way it looked. Once satisfied, I applied this stain to all sides of the inner box and inside of the lid, wiping away buildup after a few minutes with a rag. I used a foam brush to apply stain and a rag to wipe away excess. I feel this gave it a more natural look without bristle strokes from a brush. I let those pieces dry for a couple of hours/overnight. Make sure to get into the pocket holes and around the screw heads so that there aren't any bare wood spots in normal view. I used a small disposable detail brush for that just because it was easier.

On the lid, be cautious not to let any stain run down the edge and get onto the face. This might ruin our sky back drop. If possible, elevate this piece to keep it off the work surface where drips might get onto your finished surface.

**Read the instructions on your stain as some require significant ventilation or a respirator due to the fumes, which can be toxic and hazardous.

I'm adding this step due to the inconsistency of my pictures with my text (sorry about that). This step should be done prior to painting, but the pieces not assembled until all staining is complete.

Basically, this is sizing your Lid trim prior to staining, then having it ready to install after the stain dries. Its ok to stain these prior to sizing them and attaching to the lid. Just make sure you touch up any cuts you made later.

• Do a dry fit with your trim and see where you are off. While we have some pre-set measurement from the cut list, it is best to do these against the lid and not a specific measurement. This will ensure the best fit with fewest (and smallest) seams.

• You can use a combination square to find the 45 in each corner of the lid. Cut your miters a little long and take small thin passes off the end until you find your perfect alignment. Measure 25 times, cut once :) If you cut the miter too short, you may need to re-cut that piece. Gaps between mitered pieces are difficult to hide.

If using butt joints, just mark the excess on one end and trim in small passes until you are close. These can be a tad bit longer and smoothed flush with the sander pretty easily. Both butt joints and mitered joints are illustrated here.

Lid (To be done after all staining to this point is finished):

• Lay the lid on a clean flat surface with the pocket holes facing down. Put a thin even coat of wood glue around the edges of the lid. Take the assembled frame and place it onto the back plate to create the rough assembly of the box. Use a couple of brad nails on each side to hold the lid in place, avoiding the areas where the pocket holes are. Flip the box assembly over and install your pocket holes. Wipe away any glue squeeze out and set the assembly aside.

Note - after a few builds, I don't use pocket holes on the lid. It is a cleaner look and holding trim in place is easily done with glue and brad nails.

Note 2 - Because I ran out of material due to making 2 boxes at once, I used some scrap 1x2s I had leftover from an older project. This is optional, but does give a cleaner look on the final product.

Next we need to cut out our "art" pieces. This has 2 parts to it, the mountains and the key. Here's what I did for mine. Again, making 2 boxes used up extra material, but I do have a picture of a box that I made using only plywood (I didn't document that one) that will be included in the end. But I've found that scrap cedar fence pickets look great for mountains and that's what I used.

Mountains:

To do the mountains, rip leftovers from the material left from the box and lid frame, or a different material like fence pickets. I mostly used 1 1/4 inch strips which are perfect to layer together to lay at a 45 degree angle to create peaks. I start this in the lower left hand corner, and lay a piece at a right leaning 45 angle and adjust to my desired length. I place a mark on my piece where I want my base to start and take it to the miter saw to cut at the appropriate 45. Then I lay that piece where it will go. I continued across the bottom, layering pieces to make taller or shorter mountains, and then cut the bottom right piece to match any remaining empty space (if applicable). The one exception is the far left piece which will have an opposing 45 degree angle and will sit on top of the first piece. You should have something like I have pictured once you go all the way across.

Choose a peak on the opposite side of the lid from where you want your latch to cut out your key. This piece needs to be a little longer because you will lose some wood when you cut your key. I cut a 45 degree angle on my piece. I intentionally cut it slightly shorter than the next piece to the right so I could wedge the Key in the corner with a magnet later. My latch is going on the upper left of the box, so I put my key in the tallest mountain peek to the right. This makes more sense in the attached photos. If your key is still slightly taller than the piece next to it, trim the length of the piece it was cut from until you have a desired length. If shorter, trim the piece the key will rest against to the right. You want the key to lay flush with the piece to its right so it isn't as noticeable once finished.

Use 220 grit or greater sandpaper to smooth all the edges and round the corners. This can be done by hand or with a random orbital sander. At a minimum, sand the peaks and remove any fraying from the ends of the pieces. These will stand out and not look as clean in the final product if you leave them.

Do not attach these pieces to the lid yet!!! You'll see why in step 7.

Art:

I chose a darker grey (weathered grey) stain to fill in my mountains. Keeping those pieces laid out in the order they will be installed on the lid, use a foam brush to put a layer to match your preference on the face, the key, and all exposed edges. I also did a small layer on top of the edges that were not exposed, just to hide any unfinished wood that might show through the gaps between pieces. I let those dry for about double the time indicated on the can because I was layering with another stain color and didn't want to risk blending on my brush.

Switching to the lighter, tinsmith grey again, I used my chip brush and dry brush technique to add snow cap on the mountain peaks. Although I did these a little thicker than the sky, I still wanted a streaked look. I left all the pieces positioned like they would be if installed. This way I didn't stain more than I needed to. I used the loose bristles to "dry brush" streaks down and away from the peaks (following the length of the wood pieces), letting the "snow" become thin and wispy as you descend from the peaks.

Art:

Once all the stain is dry on all the pieces, its time to put everything together. Lets start by adding our mountains to the lid. This is pretty easy as the orientation is already done. Just move the pieces back into the lid where they were cut to fit. For extra integrity, I used wood glue and 1 inch brad nails to hold these pieces in place. I started with my original first piece (the first one we cut) and added a line of glue to the back before placing it carefully back into position. I've found that 2 nails per long piece is sufficient. You can do one in the lower left corner, and another on the opposite side of the piece, further up. If you add it in the snowy area, the brad is more noticeable. But if you tuck in just below the snow in the grey area, it is less noticeable. You could also go back later and touch up the holes with more stain later. That's totally up to you. I repeated this until all the pieces were glued and nailed to the lid. If any pieces raise up off the lid, you may need an extra brad nail to hold it down. Be sure NOT to nail the key

NOTE: Longer nails may punch through the other side, so be cautions of what size you use.

Apologies, I didn't capture photos of this step, but you can see the result in future steps.

Box:

Cut slots for hinges:

• I used a combination square to set my hinge location at 3 inches from the outside edge of the box frame. I marked a line with a pencil at that location, then added the hinge and marked another line on the other side of the hinge. This gave me the spacing I needed for the hinge.
• Then I took my Dremel and mounted my router attachment and installed a small straight cut bit. Then I adjusted the bit to sit just high enough to be the depth of the hinge. I used a carpenter's speed square as a straight edge and cut out my hinge slots.
• Be sure to start a little narrow and creep up to the line on each side. We don't want this to be too large as it will leave gaps between the hinge and the wood frame. Repeat for the other hinge slot.
• Test the fit with one of the hinges. I used a razor knife and sandpaper to get to my perfect fit
• Optionally, if you didn't do this in the earlier steps, touch up the new cuts with stain and let dry

There are many techniques to accomplish this, but with what I had available, this was my best option.

Mount Lid to box:

• Start by attaching your hinges in the slots we cut. I use painters tape to try to hold my hinges in place while I do the next part. Use a 1/16 drill bit to start the screw holes, but don't go far. Then drive the screws into place. Keep your hinge as square as possible during this step.
• Now we need to attach the lid to our box. I placed my lid face down and centered my box on it, which left about a 1 inch space all the way around. This is trickier because you have to do some measuring to get the hinges lined up properly. Ensure your hinges are oriented at the bottom of the artwork on the lid.
• Mark the back corners of your hinges. I use these to find my alignment when I open the box to pre-drill the screw holes for the other side of the hinges. You don't want to go through the lid. If you have a drill stop, this is a good time to use it. Use some scrap 3/4" x 1 1/2" material from your lid frame to support the box in place while you work. Pre-drill your holes and install your screws.

Once installed, test your box to make sure it opens and closes properly.

I used a latch kit that comes with an installation jig. This holds all the pieces together and lets you do a temporary mount with adhesive. I followed the instructions provided with my latch kit for the install, but it should go similar to this:

• Mount latch, plate, and jig together
• Remove plate adhesive backing
• Position plate where you want the latch to go and apply pressure to secure
• Remove the backing to the latch and close the lid, applying pressure to secure
• Open lid and remove jig from the plate (the latch should have come apart on it's own)
• Test latch with factory key.

**I noticed that testing the latch may require the cabinet to be in a vertical position vs laying flat due to the design of the magnetic key. You may need to position the key over the latch and apply a slight pressure before the magnet works

With the box flat on its back and lid closed. Use a neodymium magnet (or factory key) and place it over the area approximately where the latch is. The key and latch should attract and position the key directly over the latch. If they repel, just flip the magnet over and try again until they attract. This is where you need your bright star. Using my tinsmith grey stain and a small detail brush, I removed the key and added a dot of color in its place. Then stretched it out in several directions to be a larger star.

At this point, I continued using the detail brush & tinsmith grey stain and added lots of randomly placed and randomly sized "stars" (dots) over the area of the union to complete the sky.

Now that the latch is installed, we can make and mount our "mountain Key".

I used my drill press for the key itself and a power drill for the holding magnet on the lid. Use a clamp or jig to hold the key in place. I do not recommend your fingers as this is very close to the bit and can risk serious injury. I used a 21mm bit, which is just barely larger than the magnets I chose for this task. I drilled a hole just slightly deeper than the thickness of the magnet. Ensure you are drilling on the back of the mountain peak, at the top of the mountain peak, but not high enough to break through the sides of the workpiece.

Using the same sized bit, I moved it to my drill and repeated this process between the corner of the spot where the key was cut out and where the next piece is. Make sure your magnet hole will not be visible when the key is added. Again, this hold should be slightly deeper than the thickness of the key. This is to accommodate layers of epoxy and magnet, and still be flush with the wood surface (or very close).

For the next step, I use the factory magnet key. Lay your custom mountain key face down and lay your manufacturers key face down beside it. Take your neodymium magnet and place it on your factory key so that the magnets snap together. Apply epoxy to the hole you drilled for the mountain key you made. Smooth it around the hole. Then keeping the orientation, slide the magnet from the factory key into the custom key slot. Press the magnet into the epoxy. Then set this aside to cure (see instructions for your epoxy on this step).

We'll repeat this process for the holding spot for the key. However, you will make your factory key FACE UP. This will ensure your 2 magnets don't repel each other. Once epoxy is in the hole, slide the magnet into place and press firmly to seat in the epoxy.

Don't clean up any squeeze out until it dries, then use a razor blade to cut it off cleanly and smoothly. Cleaning it up while wet can lead to larger messes. Once the epoxy is cured, I used a straight razor to scrape away any epoxy buildup on the surface of the magnet and surrounding wood, on both the key and the lid rest.

*A very important note* when mounting the magnets into the key and the lid with epoxy, ensure the polarity orientation is in correct alignment with the latch. Digging a magnet stack out of epoxy without damaging the wood around it is very difficult. (Don't ask me why I know this, lol.) Following the above instructions should keep your polarity correct.

I use two 3.25 inch cabinet screws to mount this to my wall, using a stud as a backing. I used a stud finder to locate a solid mount point. I used a picture level and a machined square to mark my anchor points outside and inside the box. Pre-drill your mount holes to make life easier when trying to mount. I also used countersink bits to keep my screw heads flush on the back wall. You may need to change this up a bit depending on where/how you choose to mount it, but that's it. At this point, you are done.

After making and finishing my concealment cabinet, I decided to add some options that you may want to do also.

• I found some gas pistons that are great for both limiting the swing of your lid and providing support, as well as open and close assistance. These can be found online for a few dollars each. Check your measurements and order accordingly. I ordered 8 lb, 7 inch pistons and those are perfect. Some pistons may have a lot more pressure behind them, so be sure you order appropriately.
• Instead of Pistons, there are also cabinet door limiters, which are cables that can limit the swing of the lid and provide a little support when open.
• A common addition to these boxes is a foam insert that can be cut out in the shape of the objects stored in the cabinet. 2.25 inch Kaizen foam is relatively inexpensive and a popular choice.
• To add a little flare, a battery powered, motion sensor activated LED light strip is also popular.
• Alternate designs are available. In the photos of this step, the entire box is 3/4 inch plywood except the moon, which is the key for this design. Plywood didn't work well for that piece so I used a scrap of cedar fence picket and a hole saw. Everything else, except the stain for the sky and the moon key, is identical in the build process outlined here.

Be Creative. Make it yours. And enjoy.

Thanks for checking out my 1st Instructable.