Compression Stuff Sack

Steps on how to make a compression stuff sack for a sleeping bag.

I am using leftover scrap fabric from my tent and down bag projects to make this compression sack. Final product is three times lighter than my "sea to summit" sack and weighs only 40g (1.4oz). It can fit my winter down sleeping bag and when fully compressed is about 20x20cm or 8x8 inches.

The design is main body with lid and bottom, held by 2mm cord on the side. In my case the top and bottom are of waterproof nylon, just in case it pours or I place pack on really wet ground, the bag stays dry. The middle or main part is of same lightweight 0.66oz per yard ripstop nylon as used on my winter down sleeping bag.

-Light weight nylon or polyester material
70cm x100cm (if one type of material)

70cm x 50cm (30"x20") main body, and 50x50cm (20x20") lid & bottom

-Waterproof heavier nylon if you want it waterproof or partially waterproof

-2m (~2yrds) of 2mm cord

-(4) Lineloc or some other tensioners

-30cm (12") thin 1/2 inch webbing

-1 cordlock

-Sewing machine and ideally polyester thread

Cut materials:

-Main body

66cm x 46cm or 26x18"

-For LID and BOTTOM

Cut material sections using squares. Both 25x25cm or 10" x10"
From above cut circle portion. Best to fold material in half. Diameter should be 25cm or 10" 4.

-For side straps

Save cut out corners from step above. We will use these as side straps

Hem all sides of main body and circled lid and bottom portions

-Burn the ends of webbing to prevent fraying

-Cut thin webbing and cord in 4 equal pieces

-Feed webbing through lineloc and sandwich between pieces triangular pieces left from lid and bottom cutouts
-Put two pieces together and stitch them along two shorter edges. Make sure to leave open the long curved edge

-Turn the strap inside out on open side. Close stitch open end and reinforce on top. Do total of 4 pieces

-Burn the ends of cord to prevent fraying

-Repeat same as above step with bottom portion of sack but using cord until you
have 4 in total. Make sure when stitching on top to go over cord

-Attach 4 triangular pieces with linelocs to lid. Make sure you mark in lid equal distance points
-Repeat the same for bottom portion

-Fold top of main material and add draw cord at designated top.

-You may want
to add a bit of webbing material at exits for reinforcement.

-Close stitch main section creating an open like tube.

-Stitch on the inside and then turn material out.

-You may want to do two lines for added strength

-Attach bottom portion to the main compartment. Stitch from inside.
The circular material may bunch up during stitching so try to mark points (say 4) at equal distances. Do at least 2 stitching lines here. I did 3.

-Attach a lid on the side of main compartment maybe an inch from the top.
-Use side corner to do it. Stitch well or add a small reinforcement piece

-Feed your cord through licelocs