Colour Picker

stage 1

• Step 1: sourcing components Components:
• Esp. 32 (microcontroller)
• Nonpixel ring 12 & 9 (RGB ring light)
• Colour sensor
• 3.7v battery
• 3.7v to 5v converter

Challenges: Getting accurate measurements for the components

Step 2: Coding Materials: Arduino IDE

Challenges: finding the right library’s

https://github.com/arduino/arduino-pro-ide/release...

• soldering iron
• hot glue gun
• 3d printer

The ESP 32 was the best choices as it is small and compact and still has Bluetooth and Wi-Fi built in this will help make the device wireless making it more seamless with the daily routine of digital artist

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The code required lots of libraries due to the esp32 compatibility issues For the RGB values I had to find out how many colours it could display and how I could dim this lights for more colours

Step 2: Coding

To find the parts were tricky as there are so many variations of the parts and the voltage differences between the parts The multiple sites were used resulting in the need for many different libraries for the Arduino

https://code2flow.com/Jj7Iv9.png

stage 2

Ifirstdida3d print for the body With abs plastic in a normal 3d printer for the final pice I wanted to make out of a SLA print for the accuracy of the parts but dew to the current pandemic it was not possible so I used the abs part after a few repairs

I reprinted my product using a resin 3d printer to improve the quality of the print this required me to use 500ml of resin for the print this gave me a good model that I had to dry in the sun as the resin is UV activated
Steps Step 1: Removing your print Once your 3D print is finished, you’ll need to remove it from the build plate. Unlike FFF 3D printing, you have to be very gently removing every print. Whereas you can use a spatula and a good tap to remove PLA prints, you can’t do the samewith your SLA prints Step 2: Cleaning off supports Some people like removing their supports after everything has cured, but I find it’s more destructive if you wait until then. In my experience, cured supports shatter and have taken off small divots of material where they attached to the print. Step 3: Cleaning the 3D print No matter how long your print is, there will be some amount of resin on the surface. If you let this harden, it will slightly distort the true shape of the model. In some cases it will harden as drips rather than a full coating and in others it will leave them sticky for a long time, allowing them to attract and stick to any dust and debris. Step 4: Post-processing the 3D print Even though cleaning off any uncured resin is a great start, the step that really brings out the quality of your 3D print is the post-curing that’s necessary for SLA prints. A high wavelength UV light has the intensity to cure the entire part, it just takes longer for thicker, more solid parts.

stage 2

Step 1: Assembling the components Materials:

soldering iron and wire Challenges: connect the small components with short wire

Step 2: 3D printing Materials: 3D printer Challenges: making it accurate

3d file attached

Stage 3

Step 1: final assembly Materials: all the parts

Challenges: sanding the 3D print to fit the parts dew to a 3D print problem

Step 2: testing Materials: Pantone chips Challenges: calibrating the sensor and fixing the Neopixel rings to work