Collapsible Market Stall Using Wood and M6 Bolts.

This is a collapsible market stand, usng locally sourced scrap wood.

This stand is aimed at Nigerian street vendors who put away their goods at the end of the working day, it is designed (so far) to be as light and strong as possible, using materials anyone can source. I made use of the same bolts for every attachment to keep it simple and easy to assemble.

This project is a work-in-progress, however I decided to enter what I've done so far into the Furniture contest since the deadline is *checks watch* today hehe.

I hope these instructions are understandable, this is my first ever post so please let me know what isn't clear. Constructive feedback is welcome!

This stand makes use of standard wood planks, six custom planks and M6 bolts.

Materials:

L X B X W

2300 mm x 25mm x 50 mm (4)

1200 mm x 25mm x 50 mm (2)

1000 mm x 25mm x 50 mm (3)

60mm x 25mm x 50 mm (2)

32 mm x 25mm x 50 mm (2)

60 mm x 25mm x 140 mm (6)

M6 bolts (26)

M6 wingnuts (26)

M6 washers (52)

150 mm x 25 mm strap hinge (2)

2000mm x 2000mm Tarp (1)

50 mm x 30 mm Curtain Fabric (6)

Tools needed:

Bandsaw

Drill with 75 mm bit

G- Clamp

The A-Frames are the basis of this design and are fairly simple to assemble. However before we can make that it is much easier to drill the holes needed for the other parts while the 2300 mm planks are still unattached.

Grab your 2300 mm planks and set them side by side, mark them as X1, Y1, X2 and Y2. These are your A-Frame pieces. Mark the bottoms as B, and the tops as T.

Following the diagram above, measure 1530 mm on the 50 mm side of all four planks, marking the midpoint. Label this as H.

Flipping so you have the 25 mm side facing up, measure 220 mm from the B of the planks X1 and X2. Make a mark and label it as D 220 mm on both pieces.

On the 25 mm side of the Y1 and Y2 planks, measure 850 mm from B and label this point as D 850 mm on both pieces.

Pay close attention to what side you're making your marks. The H labels should be on the 50 mm side, and the D marks should be on the 25 mm side.

Once you've made all your marks, grab your drill and make a 7.5 mm hole on all the points labelled H and D. Rewrite the labels on both sides of each hole after you've drilled to make sure the labels are still intact.

Don't put away your drill just yet though, more to come in the next steps.

Lay your X1 piece 25 mm side on the table, placing your hinge at the top of the plank. The 7.5mm hole marked D 220 mm label should be facing the ceiling. Important: If previous step has been followed correctly, D should be 220 mm from B.

Lay your hinge at point T of your X1 plank, placing it carefully so the knuckles (the cylindrical part) is not against the wood. See the picture if unclear.

Make a small hole with a 2mm drill bit to avoid splitting the wood, then drill in your screws to secure the hinge.

Grab your Y1, 25mm side up (same as your X1) and secure the other leaf (flat part of the hinge) onto point T (the top) of your Y1 piece. Make sure you are not securing the hinge to B (the bottom).

Repeat with X2 and Y2.

You should have two adjustable A-frames, one X and one Y each.

In order to secure the frames and keep them from swaying when erected. Two diagonals help stabilise the structure.

Grab your 1200 mm planks. Label them D1 and D2. Drill a 7.5 mm hole 20 mm from each end of both planks. You should end up with two planks with two holes at either end.

Align on of the 7.7mm holes from D1 to the marked hole D 220 mm on your X1 plank. Secure them together with an M6 bolt, two washers (one on each side) and a wingnut.

Repeat the same with D2 but on the X2 plank. Tighten the wingnuts so that the D1 and D2 planks are movable but not loose.

Once those are attached, get one of your 1000 mm planks and attach it on one end with the M6 bolts and wingnuts, 60 mm from the T point of one of the A-frame pieces on the 25 mm side. Drill a hole on approximately the same area on the corresponding A-frame, this will be the horizontal piece that attaches the A-frames.

This step requires two of your 600mm by 50 mm planks and two of the 1000 mm by 50 mm planks. Arrange them as seen in the photo above. Lining up the corners perfectly. Secure the frame with clamps to keep it from shifting. Next, drill a 7.5 mm hole in each corner, about 15mm from the edges. Drill through both pieces to get perfectly aligned holes for the bolts.

Grab your M6 bolts and put them through the holes, securing with the washers and wingnuts. The frame should be collapsible, folding into a flat rhombus shape.

Next, get your 600 mm by 140 mm planks and the pieces of curtain fabric. Arrange the planks so that the fabric runs horizontally across them, using a staple gun, attach the fabric so that the planks are 50 mm apart. The resulting piece should be foldable and fit in the table frame with some slack for the fabric.

Repeat this step, instead using the 1200 mm pieces attached in the same fashion to a 1000mm piece. secure these with wingnuts and we have made the frame for the roof.

Mark a line on the A-frames' 50 mm sides, 1000mm from point T. This is where the table brackets will be attached. Grab your brackets and using the same method as the hinge, attach them to the frames.

The stabilizers are the horizontal pieces that run across the A-frame keeping the two sides apart.

Get your 320 mm long plank, and mark two points, 280 mm apart on the piece.

Drill the holes with a 7.5 mm bit and attach to the H holes on the A-frame.

Secure with M6 bolts, washers and wingnuts to tighten.

Lay your pieces on the tarp.

Make small incisions with a scissor in the fabric of the tarp, on either side of each piece. Thread the curtain fabric through the incisions so that you are able to lace it around the wooden pieces, securing them to the tarp.

Assembly is easier to show than tell, so I've attached a video of myself assembling the stand from start to finish with all the pieces made.

Each step makes use of M6 bolts to attach any pieces.