Clutch Replacement 2012-2015 Civic Si

Let me start off by saying that this is probably one of the easiest FWD clutches that I have ever done. I can do this particular car in around 3-4 hours if I don't get distracted. Realistically, you should give yourself 8-10 hours of actual work time plus whatever you spend fixing as you go.

There are probably several different ways to approach this kind of work depending on the equipment available to you. I did my very first clutch job at 17 with no help other than a brief description from the guy at the parts store. I did it in a GRAVEL driveway on stacked-up railroad ties as jackstands, using tools that I borrowed or bought at Big Lots. That clutch didn't last 5000 miles but I learned a lot. I've probably done 50 clutch jobs since then and I learn a little more every time. I work on cars because I want to, not because I have to. I am showing you how I do this job; not necessarily how it is supposed to be done. Again, I am a DIY-er and I have no professional training on how to install a clutch. Use these instructions at your own risk.

Although I happen to have an overhead lift in my garage at home, I'm aware that the vast majority of people doing their own clutch job will be doing it on jackstands in their driveway. So in the interest of solidarity, I wanted to make this DIY "driveway friendly" and do it using jackstands... but getting decent pictures was hard enough so I cheated a little bit on the bottom side. The order of operations is still valid.

The biggest part of doing this type of work quickly is knowing what you don't have to remove. The way to complicate this type of work is to disassemble the car too much and then have to figure out how to put it back together. You'll notice in several pictures that there are parts that have been taken off that I didn't mention in the previous steps. This was done mostly to make it easier to take pictures. I've been pretty comprehensive and, if I didn't say to take it off, you probably don't have to take it off.

NOTE: The way that Instructables orders the pictures is pretty weird and sometimes cumbersome. If you click on the first picture in a set, you can scroll in the proper order of operations.

That being said, there are a few tools and supplies that you MUST have to do this properly and safely. Most of the tools can be borrowed through the "Loan-A-Tool" programs available at most big-box auto parts stores. This "required tools" list is bare-minimum to get it done. Having the right tools is the difference between a 6-hour clutch job and a 2-day nightmare.

-----Required Tools:

-Jack, sturdy jackstands, and Wheel chocks. Make sure that the jackstands are rated at least 3-tons. Not too big though. I had a set that were too big and the jack wouldn't reach high enough (the red ones in the picture). Wheel chocks are not optional. If the car rolls and falls off of the jackstands onto you, you will die. Use a hydraulic jack rated for at least twice the full weight of the car. (1.5 tons X 2)

-Cardboard to work on. Get several sheets. This job is messy and you want to preserve a clean environment. Also, get several shallow boxes (like pizza boxes) to use to catch fluid leaks & debris when removing the transmission and cleaning parts.

-Gloves and cleaning supplies. Get a box of exam gloves and change them often. Also, get some steel wool or scotchbrite pads, some penetrating oil, a steel brush, and several cans of brake parts cleaner.

-Thick blanket. Like a furniture blanket. You'll have the transmission in your lap and this will save your legs. It will get VERY dirty.

-Pilot bushing puller and a Seal driver. The pilot bushing is small so you'll need a puller with small teeth. Look for a "blind hole bearing puller". The seal driver should have a 21mm snout. A 3/4" snout will work but it can damage the bushing if you aren't careful.

-Torque Wrench. A torque wrench is the difference between a good mechanic and a bad mechanic. Get one.

-Cargo straps and Bungee cords. You'll use several of these to hold parts out of the way while you work.

-Flex-head ratchet wrench. I don't know how I ever worked on cars without one of these things. You'll need it to get to the bolts on the steering rack. The longer handle the better.

-36mm axle nut wrench, Pliers, Punch, and Chisel. For removing the axle.

-Sockets and extensions. Regular sockets: 12,14,17,19. Deep sockets: 10,12,14,17,19,21. 12-point sockets: 10,17. Short and long extensions. The 21mm deep socket is for the wheels, you can use the tire tool in the trunk. The 10mm and 17mm 12-point sockets are required to remove the pressure plate and flywheel bolts.

-Funnel with long hose; Electrical tape; Hammer (any kind); Dead-blow hammer or Rubber mallet; 5mm hex key (allen wrench); Small screwdriver or mechanics pick; Pry bar. Combination wrenches; 12,14,17.

-Blue Thread Locker. There is a common misconception that thread locker will make the car more difficult to take back apart in the future. The opposite is true. The thread locker seals moisture out of the threads and prevents corrosion. Make sure you get "blue" or "medium strength".

-Anti-seize compound. As a general rule, you should probably use anti-seize on bolts that you don't use thread locker, just as a gift to future you.

-Drain pan of some sort. At least 2 quarts so a Halloween bowl or something like that will do fine.

-----Tools Not Required but Highly Recommended:

-Impact wrench. These are for disassembly. NOT REASSEMBLY! Use the torque wrench for reassembly.

-Swivel-head sockets. These are another life-changing tool. They make getting at hard-to-reach bolts way easier.

-Shop vacuum. Not your mom's or your wife's. Use the filter bags as a favor to future you. Clutch dust is super fine so it'll plug the bag pretty quick.

-Computer duster. Especially if you don't have a vacuum cleaner.

-OE 070AG-SJAA10S Frame Alignment Tool. You can also use an alignment drift or a bolt with a 12mm shank.

Most of the time the OE parts from the dealer are better quality than the parts store parts. They cost more but it's usually worth it. Order them online if your local dealer won't cut you a deal.

-----Required Parts:

-Clutch Kit. Obviously. The OE kit isn't great so use aftermarket if you want.

-Flywheel. You can try to have the flywheel resurfaced but getting it done correctly is a crapshoot. If you have a local shop that does flywheel resurfacing, you're better off to try to sell them your old flywheel and then buy a brand new one. The flywheel should weigh at least 15 lbs or it will cause a check engine light.

-OE Pilot bearing. (22103-PNA-003) Get a couple of these in case you mess one up while installing it.

-OE Flywheel bolts (8) (90011-PNA-B00) The book says to replace these every time but I'll reuse them one time.

-OE Pressure plate bolts. (6) (90034-P10-A10) Again, the book says to replace these every time but I reuse them once.

-OE Honda Manual Transmission Fluid. (2-quarts) (08798-9031) Do not even consider using anything other than OE Honda gear oil in the transmission. It's cheaper than the parts store stuff and you don't have to guess.

-OE Replacement sealing washers. (94109-14000) and (94109-20000) For the drain and fill plugs. Don't reuse these. The 94109-14000 is the same one used on the engine oil drain plug so you might get several to keep around.

-Release bearing. (22810-RPN-003) Cheap clutch kits come with a cheap release bearing. If in doubt, use the OE bearing from the dealer.

-Clutch disc alignment tool. Sometimes the kit doesn't come with this so make sure.

-Clutch grease. (08798-9002) My dealer didn't have the OE Honda grease on-hand so you'd be better off ordering it if you want to use the OE stuff. I have never had any trouble from using regular old high-temperature brake caliper grease.

-----Other Parts to Consider Having On-hand:

Bell housing dowel pins. (94301-14200) These will probably be rusted if the car is used in northern environments. You'll probably need a slide hammer to get them out. Remember to use plenty of anti-seize.

-OE Rear main seal. (91214-R11-0A1) The work is the same for a rear main seal as for a clutch job so, if the car has a bunch of miles, you may want to replace it while you're in there. Get a seal driver tool, too.

-OE Bumper Clips. There are several different ones but the "B" clip (91505-S9A-003) is the most universal. The older the car, the more of these you are going to break. The OE Honda clips are way, way better than the ones from the parts store.

-Stuff for an oil change. You're going to be under there getting dirty anyway.

-Lower engine mount. There are several companies that make mounts that are cheaper and better than the OE mount.

-The release fork and pivot ball (in the picture) are usually good for at least 200k miles unless it stays wet long enough to rust. The dust boot keeps water out of the bellhousing so if it's ripped/missing you need to get one and maybe the fork and ball too. The retainer spring isn't absolutely necessary but leaving it out will make reassembly more difficult and the fork will rattle.

-There are a lot of parts that you could potentially replace while you're in there doing a clutch job but I'm not going to go into it.

Other than having the right parts and tools, the next most important thing is keeping everything clean. Grit and grime between mating surfaces and in sliding parts will ruin your car. Literally. I don't know why I have to say this but apparently it isn't common sense.

If your car is leaking oil, the air is blowing it around while you drive, road grit and grime are sticking to it, and the bottom of the car is covered in an oily gritty mess that's a real nightmare to work in. The best thing you can do is to take it to a car wash and get all of that junk off of there. Use a water-based degreaser and get it good and clean.

If you work on your car without wearing exam gloves, you don't know what you're missing. The little nicks and tiny cuts that make your hands ache the day after wrenching on it are basically eliminated. Also, you don't want to track the mess around and using gloves encourages you to be cleaner. Wear 2 pairs when doing something really dirty and pull off one pair for a clean set of hands. Wear gloves and change them often, it'll change your life.

Work on cardboard even if you have a creeper. Don't set tools or parts directly on the concrete (the concrete in the pictures is sealed). You'll scratch them up and get concrete grit everywhere. Put a box under the clutch as you remove it so you don't have to wallow in filth during reassembly. Dump the cardboard in the trash and flip it over for reassembly.

Get a box of gloves and a roll of paper towels to wipe tools.

Here we go.

Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels.

Using a small screwdriver, remove the center cap from the left front wheel.

Uncrimp the axle nut lock using a small punch and hammer Loosen the axle nut. The jack stand may be used to support the wrench for greater leverage.

Jack up the front of the car using the lower control arms.

Place the jack stands under the pinch welds as shown and lower the car onto them.

Check that the car is secure on the jack stands. The bumper should be at least 14" off of the ground to clear the transmission.

Disconnect the negative battery cable and secure it away from the battery.

Disconnect the positive battery cable. Unclip the positive harness from the radiator shroud and the battery hold down, and push the cable out of the way.

Remove the battery hold down bracket Remove the battery, cover, and tray

Loosen the 3 hose clamps from the intake tube and remove it.

Disconnect the MAF sensor and unclip the wire from the housing.

Unclip the air filter box and remove the upper intake and filter.

Remove the 1 bolt holding in the front of the lower filter box. The rear of the box is held on by 2 rubber grommets. Pull straight up to detach it.

Remove the lower snorkel tube by rotating it counterclockwise while pulling upward.

Remove the hairpin clips from the shifter cables and pull the ends off of the shift levers.

Remove the 3 bolts holding the shift cable bracket onto the transmssion.

Do not disconnect the cables from the bracket. Push the cable assembly over the airbox bracket to hold it out of the way.

Disconnect the 2 clips holding the wire harness onto the rear of the transmission and push the harness over the airbox bracket to hold it out of the way.

Disconnect the lockout solenoid by squeezing the tab on the connector and pulling straight out.

Disconnect the reverse light switch.

Disconnect the solenoid harness. I find it easier to just remove the whole bracket.

Disconnect the ground wire and remove the ECU bracket bolt.

Tuck all of the wires and harnesses out of the way.

Unbolt the clutch line bracket from the transmission.

Unbolt the other clutch line bracket from the frame.

Unbolt the slave cylinder from the transmission.

Hold the slave cylinder piston in. Try to keep it compressed about the same amount as it was when you removed it. Pushing the piston all the way in might overfill the fluid reservoir.

Tape the piston to keep gravity from pushing it out.

Move the slave cylinder out of the way but keep it above the fluid reservoir to minimize the gravity pressure on the piston. Try to bend the hard lines as little as possible.

Disconnect the speed sensor harness from the transmission, disconnect the speed sensor, and tuck the harness out of the way.

Remove the 2 bolts holding the lower snorkel tube (they are under the battery tray) and remove the lower snorkel tube.

Use a jack to support the engine from below. Use a block of wood to protect the oil pan.

Remove the 1 bolt and 2 nuts that attach the trans mount to the trans case.

Lower the jack just enough to clear the studs in the transmission.

Remove the bolt from the trans mount bushing.

Remove the trans mount.

After checking again that the car is secure on the jackstands, remove both front wheels.

The undertray clips can easily be removed using a battery charger clamp.

Remove the undertray and the lower bumper shroud.

Remove the front 6 clips and the screw from the left inner fender.

Pull the inner fender out of the way. It doesn't need to be completely removed.

Remove the drain plug from the transmission.

Drain the transmission completely.

Replace the crush washer (94109-14000) on the plug and reinsert it. Torque to 29 ft/lb.

Disconnect each of the lower ball joints from the control arms by removing the 1 bolt and 2 nuts.

Remove the axle nut and pull the axle out of the wheel hub. DO NOT pry against the ABS sensor OR YOU WILL DAMAGE IT.

Gently pry the axle out of the transmission. Be careful not to nick the seal or sealing surface. Remove the axle.

Keep the splines clean and be careful not to damage the snap ring.

Use straps to support the weight of the steering rack at both ends.

There is a bracket on the right side of the firewall directly above the steering shaft.

The other end of the rack can be slung between the exhaust bracket and the heat shield on the back of the engine.

Remove the 12mm bolt from the right side of the rack and loosen the 10mm bolt on the stiffener bracket.

Remove the 12mm bolt from the left side of the rack and loosen the 10mm bolt on the stiffener bracket.

Rotate both stiffener brackets out of the way.

Remove the 2 bolts from the rear motor mount.

Remove the 4 large bolts from the corners of the subframe.

Loosen the 2 bolts in the subframe bracket that face towards the wheels.

The holes are slotted and the subframe will come loose.

Drop the subframe onto the ground and slide it to the side.

The jack will prevent you from being able to completely remove the subframe.

Remove the heat shield on the stub shaft bearing. There are 2 bolts.

Remove the plate that covers the crank trigger.

Remove the Flywheel cover plate.

Remove the 3 bolts from the stub shaft bearing.

Remove the right axle by hitting the side of the stub shaft bearing with a rubber hammer.

Tie the axle out of the way.

Remove the 2 bolts from the top of the bell housing.

Remove the M10 bolt and the 2 M12 bolts from the rear of the bellhousing.

Remove the M12 bolt from the front of the bellhousing.

Loosen the 2 M10 bolts in the bottom of the bellhousing but do not remove them.

Remove the bottom starter bolt.

Sit cross-legged on the ground with a thick blanket or furniture pad in your lap.

Scoot under the transmission. Support one end of the transmission with your knees and the other end with your forearms. Almost like you are doing yoga.

Remove the final 2 bolts and pull the transmission straight out. Be sure that the transmission comes out at least a couple of inches before you let the weight down.

You may need a helper to pry the transmission off of the dowel pins if it is stuck.

Set the transmission in your lap and scoot back out from under the car.

12 point sockets are required to remove the pressure plate.

This step is dirty and so put a box or trash can under the clutch to catch the mess.

Loosen the 6 pressure plate bolts a couple of turns at a time to release the pressure evenly, then remove the pressure plate and disc.

Remove the 8 flywheel bolts and then the flywheel. It weighs 16 lbs.

You will need a blind bearing puller to remove the pilot bushing. If you are using a cheap-o puller, it helps to grease the threads and tip of the anvil in the puller.

Check the pilot bearing for uneven wear or scoring. If the pilot bushing has uneven wear, you may have a bent input shaft or trans case alignment issue.

Insert the puller into the bushing bore. Make sure that the teeth are fully behind the bushing before tightening it or the teeth may slip and damage the puller and/or make the bushing more difficult to remove.

The bearing should come out easily. If it is stuck, soak it in penetrating oil and try again.

Clean the pilot bushing bore.

Clean the crankshaft flange and check for any debris or burrs.

Clean the bellhousing flange and make sure it is completely smooth.

Use brake parts cleaner to wash out the clutch material and debris.

Wipe the surfaces dry and repeat the cleaning as necessary. One of the major causes of a bad clutch job is debris getting between mounting surfaces, keeping parts from mating flat.

Check that the dowel pins are undamaged and that they are clean around the base. If they are rusty, replace them now.

Check the rear main seal. If it is leaking or if the car has a lot of miles, now is the time to replace it.

Remove the release bearing by pulling directly out on it. Also pull off the dust boot.

Push in on the 2 sides of the retainer clip and pull the fork out.

Clean the clutch debris out of the bellhousing.

Clean the fork and retainer clip.

When cleaning the bearing tube, only scrub in the direction that the bearing slides. If you clean with a twisting motion, you will scratch the tube in a way that will cause the tube and the plastic bearing surface to wear out more quickly.

Clean the splines with a steel bristle brush. Clean the bellhousing flange and make sure it is completely smooth.

Clean both axle seals with a cloth and make sure that they haven't gotten hard. Inspect the axle seals for damage done while removing the transmission. Now is the time to replace them.

Clean the bellhousing and fork with brake parts cleaner and wipe it dry. Inspect the fork and make sure that the pivot points are smooth. If they have worn or there are cracks, replace the fork.

Inspect the pivot ball, bearing tube, and pilot bearing surface for wear. All of these surfaces should be glass smooth.

The splines should be worn evenly over the whole length. If it isn't the disc may hang up and not fully release.

If there is excessive wear on the guide tube or if the splines are damaged or uneven, you should take it to a transmission shop for repair.

Clean the old grease off of the shifter mechanism and re-grease if desired.

Find a bearing /seal driver that fits the pilot bushing tightly.

Lightly lubricate the outside of the bushing. Hold the driver perfectly straight. You must hold it perpendicular to the crankshaft flange or you will damage it.

Tap the bushing in. The bushing should be pushed in about 4mm past the snout.

Clean out any crumbs and inspect the bushing. If you damaged it, pull it out and replace it now. They're only a few dollars and it's not worth the risk. If you damage the bushing, it'll bind on the input shaft and the transmission won't shift properly. You'll also trash the input shaft.

If the clutch kit didn't come with a packet of grease, Disc Brake Grease works just the same. It's a high-temperature grease that's resistant to sling-out.

Wipe a very thin film of grease on the bearing guide tube. Pack the input shaft splines with grease. Pack the splines on the disc. Be sure that you DO NOT get grease on the friction material.

Slide the disc onto the shaft, push it all the way onto the splines, then wipe the excess grease off of the shaft. Pull the disc off of the shaft and wipe the excess grease off of both sides of the hub and the backside of the shaft.

Flip the disc over and do the same thing from the other side.

There should be a thin film of grease on both the input shaft and the disc splines.

Make sure that there are no globs of grease anywhere as they will sling off and ruin your clutch material.

Put a pea-sized dab of grease in the pivot ball recess and snap the retainer clip back in. Put another pea-sized dab of grease in the slave cylinder rod recess.

Wipe a very thin film of grease on the inside of the bearing where it slides on the guide tube. Put small dabs of grease where the clutch fork contacts the bearing.

Wipe a small amount of grease into the pilot bearing bore. I just scrape the little bit of grease off of my gloves onto the lip behind the bushing.

Wipe some regular chassis grease into the groove of both of the axle seals to help protect the seal during assembly.

You should also wipe a little grease onto the mating surface of the axles.

While your gloves are greasy, paint the wheel-hub side axle splines with some anti-seize.

Put the release bearing on the fork and install it on the transmission. Then install the boot. Check that it clipped into place and that it slides freely.

Clean the crankshaft mating surface of the flywheel. It should be dead-smooth.

Apply Blue threadlocker to the crankshaft bolts. Install the flywheel and torque the crankshaft bolts to 91 ft/lbs.

Apply Blue threadlocker to the pressure plate bolts. Use the alignment tool to center the disc and then install the pressure plate. Torque the bolts to 19 ft/lbs.

If properly centered, the alignment tool should easily pull out with just a "pop".

Check again that the bellhousing flange is dead-flat, smooth, and clean. Check the transmission flange and the dowels again. If you damaged them by prying the transmission off, fix it.

Crack the fill plug loose while it's easy to get to. Also put the trans into any gear.

Install the transmission just like you removed it, only backwards. Set it in your lap and scoot back under the car. Lift the far end of the trans on your knees and lift the near end with your forearms. BE SURE THAT YOU DO NOT HANG THE WEIGHT OF THE TRANSMISSION ON THE INPUT SHAFT or you will bend the disc. Wiggle the transmission into the splines and slide it all the way on.

Install at least 1 of the top 2 bolts before you let go of the trans.

You should be able to slide the transmission all the way to the engine. If it sticks or binds, stop and find out why. If you can't pull the engine and trans all the way together with just finger pressure on the bolts, DO NOT USE THE BOLTS TO PULL IT HOME! Using the bolts to pull the transmission on is a good way to destroy your engine and/or transmission (depending what it's stuck on or pinching).

Install all of the bellhousing bolts and snug them down by hand before you tighten anything.

Torque the larger (M12) bellhousing bolts to 47 ft/lb.

Torque the smaller (M10) bellhousing bolts to 32 ft/lb.

Push the shaft straight into the differential. Tighten the 3 bolts to 29 ft/lb.

Snug the bolts down (12 ft/lbs)

You will need helper because this thing is heavy. Don't let the subframe hang by one bolt or you'll bend the subframe.

Install the 4 large (M14) bolts and screw them in several threads by hand.

Use the OE Subframe Alignment Tool (pn 070AG-SJAA10S) or the 12mm bolt to align the subframe as shown.

Torque the 4 large (M14) bolts to 77 ft/lb and the smaller (M12) bolts to 47 ft/lb.

Remove the strap. Torque the 4 large (M12) bolts to 69 ft/lb and the smaller (M10) bolts to 36 ft/lb.

Torquing the right-side bolt is the most difficult part of the whole clutch job.

You will need some combination of lifting/prying to get the bolts started. Torque the bolts to 55 ft/lb.

Insert the axle into the wheel hub first. Then insert the trans side.

Be careful not to pinch the seal between the axle and the case. You will damage it and it will leak.

Apply blue threadlocker to the ball joint nuts and bolt. Insert the ball joints into the control arms and tighten the bolts and nut to 44 ft/lb. Do both the right and left sides.

Apply blue threadlocker to the sway bar end links and attach them to the sway bar. The torque spec for the end links is 27 ft/lbs but you have to hold the stud with a 5mm hex key so you can't get the torque wrench on there.

The short plastic clip is PN: 91505-S9A-003 This is the only one that I buy. It will work in place of the other 2 clips.

PN: 91506-S9A-003 is a slightly longer version. It only works where several panels intersect. If used anywhere else, it'll be loose.

PN 91501-TR0-003 is the flush clip that goes in the fender well. I just use the 91505 when these break.

Again, parts store clips suck. The Honda clips have a little metal insert that stays put. I actually use Honda clips on pretty much whatever make/model I'm working on.

Use a long funnel. The oil is PN: 08789-9031. It's only $7 a quart so it doesn't make sense not to use HONDA brand.

I don't bother to use the fill-level-plug. I just completely empty the trans and add the 2 quarts like they did from the factory.

Install a new crush washer (94109-20000) and torque the plug to 32 ft/lb.

Let the jack down to get the mount on and then jack it back up to get the bolts in.

Torque the shorter bolt and the nuts to 61 ft/lb and the longer bolt to 47 ft/lb.

Reinstall the lower snorkel tube and snug the bolts down.

Reattach the slave cylinder. If you didn't let the piston come out, you won't need to bleed the system.

Torque the cylinder bolts to 16 ft/lb and snug the brackets down (12 ft/lbs)

Reattach the ground wire and torque to 13 ft/lb.

Put the ECU bracket back into place and snug it down (12 ft/lbs).

Reattach the speed sensor and clip the wire harness back in.

Reattach the rear engine harness to its brackets on the trans and frame rail.

Reattach the reverse light switch and the lockout solenoid.

Bolt the bracket back onto the trans and reattach the harnesses.

Torque the bolts to 20 ft/lb.

Attach the cable ends and clip them in.

Install the lower airbox and snorkel tube.

Install the air filter and upper airbox.

Install the intake tube, PCV tube, and reattach the MAF sensor.

Install the battery and clamp it down.

Reattach the harness to the fan shroud and the battery post.

Install the wheels, torque the lug nuts to 80 ft/lb, and then put the car on the ground.

Torque the axle nut to 181 ft/lb and dent the lock ring with a chisel.

Pop the cap back on. You're done.

Any time you remove the subframe and/or the ball joints, you should have your wheels aligned by a professional alignment shop. Failure to do so may cause the car to handle poorly at high speeds and may cause the tires to wear prematurely.

The master cylinder is filled by the reservoir. The only reason that there is a reservoir is that the clutch changes as it wears and the hydraulics need to self adjust over time.

The way that this works is that there is a tiny port (hole) between the piston bore in the master cylinder and the reservoir that is only open while the pedal is at rest. Immediately as you start to push the pedal down, the piston covers this port so it can create the pressure that operates the slave cylinder.

If you adjust the pedal, care must be taken so this port is open to the reservoir when the pedal is at rest.

If the port is blocked when the pedal is at rest, there is nowhere for the excess fluid to go as the clutch wears and pressure starts to build in the system. This pressure does the exact same thing as riding with your foot down on the pedal: It causes excess wear. The excess wear causes more pressure and, before you know it, your clutch is shot again.

Good thing is that it's easy to check: just push in on the exposed clutch fork with your hand and make sure that the piston will push back into the slave cylinder. You should be able to push it in at least 1/4 inch without a lot of effort.

If you can't push it in, just back off the pedal adjustment a little at a time until you can.

I'm not going to go into this further because Honda hasn't changed the adjustment method in decades and there are a lot of good online videos explaining this in greater detail.

It has come to my attention that, once the car has been exposed to road salt, the bolts that hold the steering rack to the subframe become impossible to remove. I live in Georgia (the U.S. State) so I don't have to deal with road salt and the corrosion that it causes.

This Instructable deviates from the Factory Service Manual instructions and the instructions for the 2006-2011 Honda Civic Si for replacing the clutch in that my instructions avoid removing the steering rack from the vehicle along with the subframe. I've done this for a couple of reasons:

First, the 2012+ cars are fitted with Electrical Power Steering (EPS) and a Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) which requires taking some precautions to ensure that the steering shaft is installed exactly the same position as it was removed. Failure to do so will result in several fault codes and the power steering, ABS, and traction control will fail to function. The SAS must be reset by a Honda dealer if it is moved.

Secondly, removing the steering rack requires disconnecting the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle; which isn't difficult if the correct tools and procedures are used. If the correct tools and procedures are not used and a person, for example, uses a "pickle fork" ball joint separator, the grease boots on the tie rod ends will most likely be damaged. Also, pounding on the exposed shank of the rod end with a hammer will weaken the rod end and/or damage the threads. I like to avoid beating on my car with a hammer if at all possible.

Furthermore, the EPS unit weighs approximately 50 lbs and adding it to the weight of the subframe makes handling it exponentially more awkward.

That being said, the proper method of removing the steering rack along with the subframe replaces Step 11.

1: Remove the steering joint cover on the driver side footwell above the pedal assembly.

2: Set the steering column to the center tilt position, and to the center telescopic position.

3: Wrap a piece of wire or a large wire tie between the U-joints to prevent the telescopic shaft from pulling out.

4: Make alignment marks on the lower U-joint and the pinion shaft, then loosen the lower U-joint clamp bolt.

5: Center the steering wheel and make an alignment mark where the steering wheel meets the steering column.

6: Pull the steering U-joint off of the pinion shaft then push the large grommet through the floorboard.

7: Remove the cotter pins and the hex nuts from both of the steering tie rod ends. screw the hex nut back onto the threads by several turns to protect them from the separator tool.

8: Use a Screw-Clamp ball joint separator to press the tie rod ends out of the steering knuckles.

9: Disconnect the EPS cables from the steering rack on the right hand connector ONLY. There are 3 connectors

Proceed through the other steps as usual.

Reassembly is the opposite of disassembly and replaces Step 26.

Torque the ball joint locknut to 40 ft/lbs and use a new cotter pin. Double-check the alignment of the U-joint to the steering shaft and then torque the U-joint clamp bolt to 21 ft/lbs.