Cloth Ironing-Set Hanger From Used Bicycle Spokes and 3DPrinting

Make a Cloth Ironing-Set hanger for storing your cloth-iron and ironing board conveniently out of the way. Made using 3DPrinting and Discarded/Used Bicycle Spokes. Upcycle your way to a tidy house :). A fresh addition to my '3Bar' upcycled bicycle spokes series.

Tools & Supplies

1. A 3DPrint file(s):

3DPrinter Filament {Your Choice; I recommend PETg, but this is not a requirement for this project. Depending on the filament you decide to use a different adhesive may be necessary.} You can find both printers and filament at Amazon for reasonable rates, and the following website is a good source for more information on 3DPrinting ( All3DP ).

3DPrintable Specialty Tools {files included}:

Assy. Tooling #1 - Print 6. [3 per each set]

Assy. Tooling #2 - Print 6. [3 per each set]

Stand (Print one plus one mirror image for Right & Left sides)

Loop Bending Tool {mounts in vice}

Tools:

Table Vice (similar to: https://amzn.to/3EJj8Ly )

Plyers: Both types are used.

Drill & Bit {Use: 5/64" or 2mm bit} (similar to: https://amzn.to/3ve24u3 )

Exact-O & Blades [careful no loose fingers; visit hospital no fun either]

Hammer {small}: (similar to: https://amzn.to/3KaVSat )

Tape 1/5" wide & Sharpie [writing & marking implement]

Mini Sanding Block (similar to: https://amzn.to/3OzTLjZ )

Tape-measure: ( similar to: https://amzn.to/38lvjCe )

Small bolt cutters (Similar to: https://amzn.to/3Kdebfm )

Materials:

a. Gorilla Glue {Original}. Cleanup with soap and water is recommended by the adhesive manufacturer.

b. Acquire reclaimed/discarded 287mm bicycle spokes [Reclaiming Bicycle Spokes]

Note: You will probably need to use spokes from a 26" or 28" bike-wheel, typically I find 26” wheels use 287mm spokes {or longer}; though the length of the spokes actually depends on the rim/axle combination. Measure your spokes to insure acceptable length.

3D Print the plastic components and assembly aids / tooling. 3D printing is awesome, if you don't have a 3D printer, get one. Using Tinkercad, or one of it's cousins from Autodesk, is fun and easy. And provides you with the missing piece to make, well, almost anything you want :). Design your own [ DYO Stuff! :) ] Like this useful item made from recycled bicycle spokes.

2.a.: Measure your door thickness: _________ 

Note: It is Important you measure your door thickness and apply the measurement to your spoke bending activity to achieve best results. You can use a 'default' measurement of 50mm, but unit stability may be affected.

2.b. Trim/Cut Used Spokes to length(s) [+/- 2mm]:

6x Unit Tops @ 10.7” [272mm] {The result of trimming off both ends a 287mm spoke :)}

6x Unit Bottoms @ 9.5” [241mm]

2x Crossbars @ 6.5” [165mm] [ the contact-area/rest for your irons ‘hot-plate’ :) ]

12x 110mm -Iron Butt-Rest

2x 110mm -Iron fencing -a-

2x 155mm -Iron fencing -b-

2x 168mm -Iron fencing -c-

2.b.1. Bend/Shape-Tops “over the door-top” hanging end.

You’ll want to measure your door, mine is 35mm so I use 36mm as the thickness measurement, your door may differ. Measure it; or use 50mm as a ‘safe’ dimension to fit ‘any door’ if your not sure where you will end up hanging the item.

Mark in two locations: at 50mm, and an additional mark at the +36mm [your measured door thickness] so the final/second mark on my spokes is at 86mm = 50mm + 36mm). Then bend 90°, as shown, at both marked locations [two 90° bends].

2.b.2. Bend/Shape Bottoms “hooked” end {Where the ironing board will hang}.

Use a #Vice and the 3Dprinted tool provided to clamp and bend the spoke: {video provided}.

Mark the spokes using a sharpie as follows: … chose an end :)

Mark at 150mm from end.

Add Hook Bending Tool to rig {clamp in place as shown }

Grip the spoke firmly {with pliers if necessary} and wrap the spoke around the tool until the spoke 'touches' the mark on top of the tool. Then release and repeat for all six spokes.

You may want to give it an ‘extra’ hand bending {shown in vid} as this allows you to Over Bend the unit so that the natural tendency to regain it’s original shape can be overcome; making a nice half circle bend.

2.b.3. Shape Iron Fencing {video available}

2.b.3.1. Fencing -a- [110mm]:

If you have not already done so, cut/trimmed 2 spoke sections to 110mm do so now.

Measure and Mark at: 43mm & 68mm

Bend 90° two places.

2.b.3.2. Fencing -b- [155mm]:

Mark at: 20mm both ends.

Bend 45° at two places.

2.b.3.3. Fencing -c- [168mm]: {Tricks’y Bits :)}

Mark at: 26mm, 14mm, 75mm, 34mm, 19mm

Two of the bends are made perpendicular to the other two bends. [Image above]

Making a right and left side is covered in the video. Basically you bend one side to the right and one to the left to achieve mirror image components -c- 1&2.

Note: you can use a larger hammer, I just like using my little ‘silver Maxwell’ :)

Unit Assembly:

I find it advisable to assemble the unit ‘dry’, then dis-assemble and re-assemble using Gorilla Glue [original formula] and allow the glue to cure at multiple points in the process. Since we’re using re-cycled bits & pieces, and doing it 'by hand’, everything may not line up well initially and may need to be tweaked a bit. {at least mine did :) }.

Cleaning out the various hole/shaft connections my be necessary depending on the plastic material used, such as with the recommended PETg type filament, which is stringy/gooey; it seems best to ream the holes using a 5/64 drill bit and hand drill as shown in the videos.

3.1. Assemble Tops:

Vertical Component Placement/Spacing dimensions:

#B 4.0” [101.6mm] up From #C - bar to bar

3.1.a. Insert Spoke “Tops” into component -A- six places {three each side}.

3.1.b. Insert Spoke “Tops” into/thru components -B- {Right & Left sides} and slide each to approximate location at 92mm from top of spokes [bent tops].

3.1.c.Insert Spoke “Tops” into components -C- {Right & Left sides} Interconnection Units. Note: the outer spoke/shaft will seat roughly twice as far into components -C- as the other two shaft/post on each side.

3.2. Assemble Bottoms:

Vertical Component Placement/Spacing dimensions:

#E 4.0” [102mm] down from #C – bar to plastic shelf top

3.3. Mate Top & Bottom Units

Note: At this point the Unit S/B “fairly” symmetrical, not perfect obviously, but close enough.

3.4. Assemble/Install Fencing/Containment bracketing

3.4.a Attach -a- right and left Rail/Fence between the two inner most post holes on each side of the handle riser.

3.4.b Attach -b- right and left, between unit -G- outer most post holes and unit -C- bottom most forward facing post hole.

3.4.c Attach -c- right and left, between unit -C- {top most post hole} and unit -B- (forward most).

Disassemble and then Re-Assemble using Gorilla Glue {Original} as indicated in the video, including multiple cure cycles, for best results.

Ta-Da ! :) I hope you enjoy your new cloth Ironing-set hanger.