Chevron Friendship Bracelet-Style Cable Wrap (2 Sizes)
by twilso30 in Craft > Fiber Arts
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Chevron Friendship Bracelet-Style Cable Wrap (2 Sizes)
This cable wrap is a quick and simple project that is also very useful! All you need is some embroidery thread or craft string and a button, and your headphones or computer cord will never be tangled again, and they’ll have a touch more personality to them. :) And if you aren’t familiar with how to make friendship bracelets, no worries! I’ll give you the basics you need to make this project.
(Also, this is my first time writing an instructable, so thanks so much for checking it out! I'd love to know what you think, so if you want to leave a comment, please do! :) )
Supplies
For a cable wrap, you’ll need:
Embroidery thread or craft string (You can use as many colors as you want, but I personally like the way 2 color cable ties look.)
A button (size may vary, but I usually use one ~1/2 in. for a small wrap or ~3/4 in. for a large one)
Scissors
Optional (but recommended): Clipboard or painter’s tape
I haven’t selected a button at this point, since I like to finish the main part of the cable tie and then choose the button, so that I can make sure that the button will fit through the button holes.
For anyone wondering about the difference between the embroidery thread vs. the craft string (pic 2), the thread (green) is multi stranded and a bit thinner, whereas the string (purple) is a bit thicker and more woven/twisted together. While the different thicknesses do make the final project larger or smaller, it doesn’t make a huge difference for function or aesthetic. (For comparison, in the intro pic, the green one is a small done with embroidery thread, and the blue/green one next to it is a small in craft string.) The woven string can be a bit easier to work with since it doesn’t fray as easily, though the thread is a bit smoother and softer, though, so the finished product can feel a bit nicer with it.
Cut String
For a small cable wrap, you’ll need 6 strands approximately 18 in. long. For a large one, you’ll need 8 strands, approximately 2 ft. long. Don’t worry if the length isn’t exact, you’ll trim it all together at the end anyways. :)
You can use whatever color or combination of colors you want, but in order to make the chevron pattern, you’ll need an even number of each color you use. I personally like a two-tone pattern, with 2 strands of one color and the rest in a second color. (This is also what I’ll be doing in the sample pics, which makes it easy to follow along with. The small is green, and the large is blue and purple.)
Once your strands are cut, bunch them up (try to line up an end), and tie them in a knot at one end. Don’t worry if the ends don’t line up perfectly, though, you can fix it at the end.
First Row and Friendship Bracelet Basics
If you have a clipboard, they work well to hold everything in place while you’re working. If not, painter’s tape works well to attach it to your work surface. Though these aren’t a requirement, having your work anchored down does really help. I don’t have a clipboard, but a binder clip and a rigid binder make do just fine as well.
To start, split the strands evenly. For the chevron pattern, you’ll want to make sure that each strand is mirrored by the same color. If you’re making a two-tone like me, I recommend having the odd color out as the outer most strings. (See pics 1 + 2)
This is where the friendship bracelet part starts. You’re going to be working with two different types of knots for this: a forward knot, and a backward knot.
To do a forward knot, take the first two strings on the left. Cross the leftmost one (I’ll call this the working string) over the next one (the base string) into the shape of a number 4. (See pics 3 + 4)
Pull the working string back under the base string through the gap in the 4. (Pics 5 + 6)
Pull it tight. Repeat once with the same base string and working string. (Yes, you’re tying twice for one forward knot.)
Your working string will now be on the other side of the base string. (Pics 7 + 8)
Tie forward knots with the same working string, but moving across the other base strings until the working string is in the middle gap of the strands. (Total of 3 forward knots for large, 2 for small)(Pics 9 + 10)
The backwards knot is the mirror image of the forward knot. Start by taking the first two strings on the right, and crossing the rightmost (working) string over the other (base) string like a backwards number 4. (Pics 11 + 12)
Pull the working string back under the base string through the gap... (Pics 13 + 14)
...and pull it tight. Repeat with the same working string and base string to finish the backward knot. Again, your working string will end on the other side of the base string, but this time, it’s moving the other way. (Pics 15 + 16)
As with the forward knots, repeat across the the middle using the same working string but the other base strings. (3 for large, 2 for small)(Pics 17 + 18)
For the first row, cross your working strings. (I find right over left gives smoother, more consistent results, personally.)(Pics 19 +20)
A Button Hole
The next rows are really similar to the first one (though it should be a bit easier now that all your strings are tied into the right order :) ). Now, the new leftmost string is the working string for the forward knots, and the new rightmost string is the working string for the backwards knots. Like the first row, tie forward knots until the left working string ends in the middle... (Pics 1 + 2)
...and then backward knots until the right working string is in the middle. (Pics 3 + 4)
Do NOT cross the working strings this time. By leaving the middle open in these rows, you create a space for the button to go through.
Repeat this gap row until you come back to your original working string twice (5 gap rows for the small, 7 for the large).
When you complete the original working string row (3rd time total this has been the working string), cross the working strings again. (It should be easy to spot in the pics since my original working string is a different color.) (Pic 5 is the halfway point, DON'T cross. Pic 6 is where you cross it. For a timelapse view, see the gif! :) )
More Button Holes!
Repeat step 3 to your desired length. I find that 4-5 button holes total works well for either size. (My large one only got 3 button holes because I cut my string too short. :P )
Quick tip: When you do the first row of a button hole, make sure your previous working strings didn’t come uncrossed as you were working your way over (especially if you don’t have your work anchored), or you won’t actually have a button hole!
Finishing
Do one more row (with crossed working strings) after your last button hole to help make sure that the button hole is secure. (Pics 1 + 2)
At this point, pick a button! You’ll want to check to make sure it fits through the button holes on your cable tie, but it shouldn’t be too loose a fit, or it won’t hold well. I picked a 3/4 inch white one for the purple and blue tie and a 1/2 inch clear and silvery one for the green one.
From here, you need to braid. If you crossed your working strings right over left, you’ll want to start your braid by bringing the left side over front into the middle, then the right side. The braid doesn’t need to be very long, just long enough to go around a strand of cable once, maybe with a little extra wiggle room. 1/2 - 1 inch from the end of the chevrons works well, in my experience, though it can vary by cord. (Pics 3 - 6)
When you have the braid long enough, thread the end of the next strand in the braid through the button. For a 4-hole button (like the one on the large cable wrap), put it back down through the hole opposite (caddy-corner) to the one you came up through. For a 2-hole button (like the one on the small cable tie), thread it up through one hole, then down through the other. If you have a more decorative, 1-hole button (post on the back), just go through. Don’t pull it all the way up yet, since some slack helps to get the next strand through as well. (Pics 7 + 8)
Thread the next strand for the braid (from the opposite side) through the button, crossing it over as if you are still braiding.(For a 2- or 1-hole button, go the opposite direction you went the first time.)(Pics 9 +10)
Slide the button up to the bottom of the braid. Braid just a little bit more (this just helps to make it smoother/neater going into the final knot). Tie a knot at the end with all strands. Try to get it as close to where the braid goes through the button as possible. (Pics 11 + 12)
Line up the final knot and the starter knot, and clip the ends to make them even (a sharp pair of scissors helps this go smoother). (Pics 13-16)
That's a Wrap!
Wrap around a cable, and put the button through the first button hole to keep it attached to the cable where it won’t get lost. Then wrap around the rest of the wound cable and button closed! (Pardon my beat up, taped power cord :P ) Or, if you prefer, you can just wrap it around the cable without attaching it around one strand first. Up to you! :)
Optional Customization
Feel free to mix it up! This is really more of a guideline than a strict pattern, so if you want to make a larger/smaller one, go for it! Use more colors, or only one. Change the length. Make the button holes a different size. Do whatever you want with it to make it whatever you want it to be!
Thanks so much for taking the time to check out my instructable! I hope you have fun making these cable wraps, and that they add a splash of color to your everyday cords. :)