Chainsaw Tool Holder

Unless you work forestry or are an arborist you probably don’t have somewhere handy to store some basic tools to run your saw. I attached my chain sharpener and bar tool to my bar sheath ages ago and thought I’d share. Save leaving bits in the grass or bush and keeps it handy. Hang the sheath when not using it so you never lose it.

I previously made one just by using sikaflex. The glue has held but wasn’t as secure as I’d hoped. Having said that, it still hasn’t failed after a couple of years. Mechanical connection is a lot more secure. The first attempt was slightly different. I put the tool on the inside to stop it falling out and didn’t really worry about the sharpener because it’s a snug fit. This go, I put them both on the same side. I’m sure there are other bits and pieces you could add to the sheath to make it even more useful.

• bar sheath
• Bar tools eg stihl 2 in 1 chain sharpener and bar tool
• lay flat hose to fit chain sharpener
• rubber hose to suit bar tool
• pop rivets
• small washers to fit pop rivets
• zip ties
• Stretch loop and buttons. Could just use bungy cord
• stanley knife
• heat source eg heat gun
• pop rivet tool
• drills to suit pop rivets

Cut a piece of lay flat just a bit bigger than the sharpener depending on how much you want it to stick out. Heat a small strip about 20mm of the end of the hose. Once the hose is heated, squish the hose together. I used a bit of ply for a nice crisp edge.

Position the lay flat on the sheath, sealed end toward the tip and leaving enough room between the tools and the dogs but not enough room that they can fall out when the sheath is secured to the saw. Drill your first hole on the sealed end. How many rivets you use is up to use. I end up only up using 2 although drilled 3 just in case.

You will need to drill an over sized hole on the outside of the sheath to allow the pop rivet to be positioned. When placing the pop rivet, put the head (big flat round part) into the sheath and poke the shaft through the lay flat. This will reduce fouling with the bar and chain. Add a washer to the end of the pop rivet and fasten. Fasten the other rivets. With the rivet closest to the dogs, come back from the edge of the run flat an inch or so just to help get it in and out.

The washer gives the rivets a little more surface area so they don’t pull through.

Automotive rubber hose works a treat and I had no trouble finding a piece to suit. Cut to length. Position on top of lay flat. I used a Phillips screw driver to poke holes through. You can drill or use an awl. Zip tie hose to the lay flat and secure.

Find a position to fit the loop button. On my Ms180 it has a plastic sprocket cover so I just drilled straight into it. On the Ms660 and other bigger saw I have, both run an aluminium cover. I didn’t want to drill them so used the dog screws. I had to drill out the button and find a 20mm Allen screw. Secure button in place. Position sheath on the bar. Take your bungy loop and hook onto the button. Apply some pressure and make wear it will sit. Drill a hole and pop rivet in place making sure to use a washer.

To make it a bit easier to remove the bungy, take a small piece of cord and make a loop. Figure of eight knot looks good and won’t come undone. Attach the loop to the bungy by using a cows hitch. It’s a simple knot, pass one end throw the bungy, then pass the end through the other end of itself and tighten.

To make access a little easier, you can cut a small piece out of the run flat. I did this on the first one but have not done it on the second one but I think I will.

When not using the sheath and tools while cutting, hang from a tree so you can see it and won’t forget it.