Celtic Dara Knot in Polymer Clay

This is a tutorial for creating a Celtic Dara Knot using polymer clay. I wanted to create something that resembled an ancient relic, and as I like to research everything I make, I discovered that the origins of the Dara Knot are quite ancient and have a rich history with profound meanings. The symbol originates from the Gaelic word "Doire", meaning "Oak Tree". It's believed to symbolize the root system of the oak tree. The Celts saw the oak as a symbol of strength, wisdom, and endurance. They also believed oak trees held the spirits of their ancestors, making them sacred. The Dara Knot's continuous loop represents the eternal cycle of life, death, and rebirth, emphasizing the interconnectedness of all things. And here I just thought they looked cool. Now that we're all a little bit smarter, let's dive in.

Supplies that I used in making the Dara Knot:

Dara knot design (I printed one off of the internet, but feel free to draw your own design.)

Tape (Scotch or masking)

Clear, tempered glass tile (as an oven-safe working surface to tape your image to the underside to serve as a guide as you work, since it can get confusing. This is optional if you're a freehand clay ninja, but I do recommend at least a ceramic tile or oven-safe silicone mat.)

Sculpey Soufflé, Poppy Seed color (although any brand of polymer clay will suffice)

Clay machine, aka pasta machine (a manual rolling pin will work fine too, just don't use it for food afterward)

Bronze or gold mica powder

Sculpting tool (you don't need anything fancy; even a popsicle stick can work in a pinch)

Craft knife

Metal ruler

Cutting mat

Old toothbrush (for texturizing)

Soft paintbrush (to apply the mica powder and varnish)

Oven (for curing the clay, a regular kitchen oven will work perfectly)

Varnish (This will protect your mica finish from rubbing or scratching off. Any water-based brand is fine, although I do not recommend using Mod Podge or clear nail polish, as these tend to yellow and can react with polymer clay over time, causing it to become sticky or cloudy.)

The Dara Knot that I made is 3 3/4 inches (you can adjust your image size with most photo editing apps or by using your printer's own software). Once you've selected your image and have printed it out at the desired size, tape it facing upward to the bottom of your glass tile. This will serve as your guide. I find it helpful to either print a second copy of the design or have it accessible on your phone or tablet for reference, if needed.

It's important to condition your clay. It will make the clay softer, much more elastic, and smoother to work with. It can be done by kneading a small amount with your hands until the clay becomes workable and adding more clay as you go, so as not to wear out your hands. When the clay softens, warms in your hands, and begins to stick to itself, it's probably conditioned enough. If you have a pasta/clay machine, run a small amount through the rollers over and over, reducing the thickness setting as you go. Go down to about setting 5 or 6, then fold it and bring it to a thicker setting. Try to avoid trapping any air bubbles.

Roll out your conditioned clay using either your pasta/clay machine or rolling pin. I rolled mine at the thickest setting, about 1/8 inch, but you can make yours thinner if you prefer. (*Tip: If you are using a rolling pin, and it doesn't have those nifty thickness rings, you can easily substitute with 2 bamboo skewers placed one on each side of the clay for an even sheet.) Your sheet of clay doesn't need to be any bigger than 5 or 6 inches.

Now we cut strips of clay. Using your ruler, measure the width of the knot's lines; mine are 1/4 inch wide. Mark the clay lightly with dots or lines at the appropriate width. Using the ruler as a straight-edge guide, align the ruler on your marks. (*Tip: Gently scoring the clay along the edge of the ruler, making multiple passes, will produce a nice, even strip. Clay tends to want to pull out of alignment if you cut straight through in one pass, leaving you with a wonky length of clay.) Cut the end of your strip, making a 90° angle for our starting piece.

Place your first clay piece on your work surface following the contours of one of the Dara lines. (*Tip: When you come to the end of a line, it helps to trim the end just a tad longer to compensate for the extra slack needed for weaving the clay.) Cut another strip of clay and add the next piece, following the design around, weaving the clay over or under the previous piece by very gently lifting the clay with your fingers or tool, being careful not to squish the clay. Continue adding clay strips. The more clay you add, the more you cover up the image, which can cause you to lose track of which piece goes over or under. This is where having an extra copy of your design to refer to comes in handy. It's easy to lose your place. (*Tip: The inner, more rounded line can get pretty tricky. Take your time, don't rush. Your eyes will cross, and it may look like a mess, but trust the process. You can do this!)

Now that you've got the basic design down, pat yourself on the back. That was not easy. Using your shaping tool, gently tap the sides of the clay lines where they may have become crooked and just straighten them out a bit. Now, using the same tool, blend the visible seams where you joined the different pieces together, being careful not to push too hard. It doesn't need to be perfectly smooth. Now that's done, it's time to texturize the surface to give it an aged, roughed-up look. Using the old toothbrush, tap it around the entire top of your Dara Knot. It may help to test this out on a scrap piece of clay to get the feel for how much texture you want.

Mica powder will give your clay that metallic look. It adheres very well to uncured clay, so it's easy to overdo it. If you're new to using mica, you may want to practice applying it on scrap clay. A tiny bit goes a long way. Using your soft, dry paintbrush, get a tiny bit onto your brush and tap it lightly on your glass work surface to distribute the powder throughout the bristles before gently tapping your brush onto the clay, adding more as needed. (*Tip: Apply only lightly where the clay pieces intersect with each other; the black clay will show through, giving it a shadowy effect in those areas as well as the indentations in the texture.) Don't forget the sides. Strategically applying it a little heavier on a few of the edges here and there will give it a worn, rubbed look.

Once your mica powder is in place and you are happy with your sculpture, it's finally time to bake it. It's always best to follow the directions on your polymer clay package, as baking times and temperatures can vary by brand. NEVER bake air-dry clay if that is what you are using. Be sure to remove your design guide from the bottom of your glass before baking. Once it is finished baking, allow it to cool completely.

Once your Dara Knot is completely cooled, it should easily pop off of your tile. It's now time to varnish. (*Tip: I must caution against using clear nail polish or Mod Podge here since these may yellow over time and can react with the clay's plastisizers, often causing the surface to become permanently sticky.) Using a soft paintbrush, gently apply thin coats over the surface of your piece, being careful not to let it drip down the sides or pool. This will protect your mica finish from rubbing or scratching off, so that it looks great for years to come. Allow varnish to dry completely.

Congratulations, you did it! You now have a cool new sculpture to mount in a frame, embellish your favorite journal, use in your cosplay, or anything you can think of! This technique can be applied to many different designs; you can make snowflakes for Christmas ornaments, words or names, even jewelry pendants. I sincerely hope you had fun and were able to learn something new. Thank you so much for following my tutorial!