Cat Puzzle Toy - Adjustable Difficulty

Is your cat bored? Probably. With just some supplies you already have around the house, you can DIY a cardboard puzzle box toy to keep your cat busy. You can put food, treats, or even small toys inside your cat's new puzzle toy. Best of all, you can customize the puzzle box! You can make it easier for a first-time puzzle-solver or for kitty who is a pro. You can also adapt it for bigger/smaller cats or for cats with disabilities.

Puzzle toys are right for almost every cat.

With this toy, your cat will use their paws to fish rewards like food or toys out of the box.

• If your cat eats too fast, you can put their meals in the puzzle box to slow them down.
• For playful cats, you can put small toys like mice or balls inside.
• If your cat is obsessed with treats, you can put those in!
• For a cat that's hesitant to play, fishing for their food can provide some much-needed engagement.
• There are ways to make this toy easier to access for cats with disabilities.
• There are ways to make this toy easier or harder if your cat is a puzzle toy newbie or a pro.

Puzzle boxes are quick, easy & free to make.

• This Instructable uses recyclables that are already in you (or your neighbors') bin and basic household items (like scissors) that you already have.
• If you can use scissors or a box cutter with or without help, you can do this project. It doesn't require any specialized skill, and is a great project for when you want some low-stress maker time.
• It will probably take you less than an hour. Even making the most complicated puzzle box I could, documenting every step (and getting distracted a lot by my cat!) it only took me 2 hours to make.

Credits to the many inspirations of this project from Instructables including:

• AlessandraT1's original "Make a Toy for Your Cat Using Cardboard"
• the wooden "Kitty Puzzle Toy" by aisaacs3
• a plastic version your cat can push around: "Box Cat Toy" by NoahB3
• and the automated "Interactive Cat Toy" by CucumberCaterpillar

Minimum supplies

• a shallow cardboard box
• boxcutter and/or scissors
• cutting surface (e.g., spare cardboard)

Optional supplies

Some are necessary for optional modifications and add-ons, like obstacles

• cardboard scraps
• packing paper or tissue paper
• non-toxic glue (I used Elmer's Glue All, but anything stronger than a gluestick and weaker than Gorilla Glue should work)
• tape measure
• pencil, pen, or something else to write with
• object(s) to trace circles or other shapes (e.g. cans, cups, bottles)

How much experience does your cat have with puzzle toys?

If this is your cat's first puzzle, use most or all of the "easy" features. You can always add in more obstacles or make a new puzzle box in the future.

The box I made to document this Instructable would be my cat's 3rd puzzle box and was too difficult! I will be opening the top up at first (discussed later) or making her a different box and trying this one out again after she finds that one too easy.

What do you want to put in your puzzle box?

If you want to put toys in the puzzle box, you will want to make sure there are holes big enough for your cat to get the toys out. If you plan on feeding your cat with the puzzle box, you will want to make a design that can be opened to remove any food your cat doesn't eat.

Is your cat chonky?

Cats like sitting on boxes almost as much as they like sitting in boxes. If you are worried that your box won't support your cat's weight, choose a box that's much smaller than your cat (so they have to put some of their weight on the floor when they try to sit on it) or make an open-top puzzle. My cat weighs about 10 lbs or 4.5 kg and her puzzle boxes comfortably support her weight.

For most designs, I recommend a box that is no more than around 4 inches or 8 cm tall ("deep"). If a puzzle box is too deep, your cat will struggle to reach the bottom with their paws and won't be able to reach items.

**If you need to use a box deeper than 3 inches (8 cm) then you still may be able to use it!**

• If the box is shorter than your cat's legs but small enough that your cat cannot easily fit in the box, you can make an open-top design. (photo 2)
• You can also cut off the top and some of the sides of the box to make it shallower (this will restrict you to open-top designs).

Open-top designs are great for playing with toys and for cats who are very new to puzzle boxes. Without lots of modification (like dividers and obstacles), open-top puzzle boxes are not as good for putting in food or for cats who are skilled at puzzle toys.

Look over the options in steps 5 through 9 and plan which you want to include in your box. The steps are numbered as the easiest way to make the puzzle box. Here, I've ordered them for the most intuitive way to plan your box:

• Top: closed vs. open vs. convertible (step 9)
• Sides: holes vs. no holes (step 6)
• Bottom of the box: flat vs. pits (step 5)
• Dividers (step 7)
• Other obstacles (step 8)

While they might all look fun, it's best to stick to easy features and skip obstacles for a cat who is new to puzzle boxes.

Can your cat reach it all?

Make sure your cat can reach every part of the box via at least one of the holes. Cats are different sizes, have different physical abilities, and different skill levels with puzzle toys, so I can't give a distance that will work for every cat. Think about the length of your cat's front leg(s). Know that you might have to add or enlarge holes (if your cat can't reach) or make a new box with fewer/smaller holes (if it's too easy for your cat to reach).

Measure your box and sketch out a plan on your box, if desired. I drew a plan for demonstration purposes but changed it as I went.

Place your box on the ground, open, with the top facing up. (photo 1)

Notice how the bottom is built. In some boxes, the flaps do not form a flat, flush bottom. The gap can be an exciting obstacle for experienced cats. However, for a cat who is new to puzzle toys or if you want to design your own "pits" then you'll need to fill it in. After flattening your box's bottom and completing any pits, you will want to glue the flaps down.

**If your box's bottom isn't already closed**

(not pictured)

If the bottom of the box is not already closed up, close it up to look like the box in photo 1, with opposite flaps level with one another. You will need tape or another adhesive to close the box. If you use the alternating flap system to avoid adhesives, this will make the toy more challenging because the bottom surface won't be level for fishing out toys and treats. In addition, some boxes won't be fully enclosed by their flaps when you fold with this method, leaving either a hole (your cat might be able to get items out--although that would be a puzzle itself!) or exposed, sticky tape that will catch food/toys as your cat tries to push them over the hole.

Flatten the bottom of your box (makes toy easier)

(photos 2-5)

To give your box a flat bottom, measure the hole and cut a piece of cardboard to size. Remember the old adage to "measure twice, cut once." Also, try out the piece to make sure it fits. Trim if needed. Put glue on the cardboard piece and press it into the hole. If it won't stay down, check that it fits and, if still needed, weigh it down with a heavy object (e.g. book, your cat).

Add pit obstacles (makes toy harder)

(photos 6-9)

The bottom of your box will mostly or entirely be made of two sheets of cardboard laid on top of each other. We will cut through one sheet, leaving the other to keep items in the box contained.

Using the box cutter (or carefully with one blade of the scissors), gently trace the lines you've drawn. Try peeling up a layer of paper. Repeat until the desired amount of the top sheet of cardboard is gone.

• Removing the top layer of the first sheet will reveal the corrugated surface. This can provide friction for toys or even be small enough to "trap" treats or kibbles so your cat has to work harder to fish them out.
• Removing the whole sheet will result in a deeper pit that will require some extra fishing for your cat to get out toys or even treats.

Glue the flaps

(photo 10)

As you flattened out your box and/or made pits, you may have noticed the interior flaps of the box are not secured. Glue them down as pictured

While optional, I recommend cutting at least 2 holes on the sides of your box. While your cat can "fish" items out from holes on the top of your box (we'll be making those later!), holes on the side of the box give your cat another angle from which to engage with items in the box.

These holes should be at least twice the size of your cat's paw. More and/or bigger holes will make the box puzzle easier. However, too many and/or too big holes can make the box much less sturdy.

Making holes that are flush with the bottom of your box will make it easier for your cat to push out items through these holes. Holes that are higher up will be harder as they require your cat to fish an item out.

I recommend cutting holes with a sharp boxcutter, but you can do this with scissors.

**For open-top puzzles**

If you are making an open-top puzzle box, it's especially important to cut lots of holes on the sides of your box. These will encourage your cat to use the box as a puzzle toy and teach them how to use puzzle boxes.

A complete divider will create different puzzle "zones" in your box.

• Each zone needs a way for your cat to get their food/treats/toys out. If there isn't a hole in it, your cat won't be able to access the zone.
• You can give the zones different difficulties and progress your cat through the different zones as they learn.
• Alternatively, you can create zones with similar difficulty and rotate which you use to add some variety to your cat's life. However, zones may frustrate a novice cat who smells food but can't figure out how to get to it.

Incomplete dividers (low dividers, dividers with holes or flaps) allow your cat to push items from one side of the divider to the other. These add challenge and complexity to a puzzle for cats who are experienced with puzzle toys. They may frustrate novice cats.

**In open-top puzzle boxes**

Open-top puzzle boxes intended for feeding are one of the few cases where I would recommend dividers for a novice cat. Dividers will push against your cat's whiskers, discouraging them from eating directly out of the puzzle box like a bowl. They will also add complexity and a "puzzle" element as your cat now tries to fish out the food with their paws. If you are making an open-top puzzle, I recommend looking up "puzzle bowls" for inspiration and adding as many dividers as you want!

Dividers

To make a divider, cut a strip of scrap cardboard to the height of your box. Arrange it in the box at the desired location. Both ends should have a fold that lies flat with the wall of the box* (photo 1). Mark where your cardboard folds against the side of the box; you can do this by drawing a mark or by making a crease. Cut the cardboard strip 1 to 1.5 inches (or 3 to 4 cm) out from the marked folds; this additional length will be glued to the sides of the box. Check that the strip still fits and adjust as needed. If you haven't already, crease at the marked folds. Place glue on the folds where they will lie flush with the box and place the divider in its desired location. Tension should hold the divider in place as it dries.

Secure the divider with folded cardboard tabs which are glued both to the divider and to the bottom of the box (photos 2 & 3). If these won't stay in place while the glue dries, you can secure them with a paperclip or binder clip (photo 4).

*If you have multiple dividers, you may want to attach some to other dividers instead of the side of the box. (photo 5)

Low dividers

Instead of cutting your divider to the full height of the box, you can cut it much shorter, and glue the divider so that your cat can nudge treats/toys over the divider.

Dividers with holes

(photos 5 & 6)

Before gluing your divider, cut holes in it large enough for the toys/treats that you plan to use. I recommend making these holes at the bottom (easier) as holes in the middle of the divider will be harder for your cat to find and use.

Dividers with flaps

(photo 6, on either side of the hole)

Before gluing your divider, draw a shape with at least one flat side. Cut out the shape, leaving at least one flat side uncut. A big flap might allow your cat to pass items through the hole--but the flap itself can also block items! This adds complexity to your puzzle box, making it more challenging for your cat.

Looking to make a puzzle box more challenging? Add obstacles.

I would recommend that you don't add obstacles if your cat is new to puzzle boxes. You can "renovate" your puzzle box later to add obstacles or add them to future puzzle boxes once your cat gets the hang of puzzle boxes.

**In open-top puzzle boxes**

Open-top puzzle boxes intended for feeding are one of the few cases where I would recommend obstacles for a novice cat. Tall enough obstacles can push against your cat's whiskers, discouraging them from eating directly out of the puzzle box like a bowl. They will also add complexity and a "puzzle" element as your cat now tries to fish out the food with their paws.

Flaps

(photo 1)

Just as you make a flap on a divider, you can make a flap on a smaller piece and attach the piece (don't glue the flap!) to the bottom of the box, making an obstacle.

Raised bumpers/stacks

To make a raised bumper, cut out a series of the same (or similar) shape of different sizes (photo 2). Confirm that your stacked series will not be taller than the box. When stacked, each shape should fit completely within the bounds of the next largest shape (photo 3). Starting with the smallest one, glue each shape to the next largest in the series, gluing the largest shape to the bottom of the box (photos 4 to 6). Let the glue dry undisturbed.

I find triangles the easiest shape to make. To make the curved version shown, I cut out regular triangles and then trimmed them to add an increasingly intense curve.

Paper poofs

(photo 8)

Crumpled packing paper glued (photo 7) to the bottom of your box can create an additional obstacle. If you want to create a multi-layered "poof" then you can staple multiple layers together. Glue cardboard on top of any staples so they won't hurt your cat.

Do NOT use string

I don't recommend adding string to a puzzle box. Cats can easily swallow string and get very hurt. If you want to learn more about why string is especially dangerous, here is a helpful article written by a veterinary clinic. If you somehow manage to perfectly secure a string, then your cat can never "catch" it and will become frusterated

An open-top puzzle is much easier for cats to solve than a closed-top puzzle. You also might choose to make an open-top puzzle box because your cat is too chonky for the box's top to support their weight. However, a closed-top puzzle box is more conventional and is more challenging for cats to solve. The good news is you can make a puzzle box that converts between open and closed so you don't have to choose!

Open-top

(photo 1)

If you know that you will want to keep your box's top open, go ahead!

• My cat's first puzzle was an open-top puzzle. I cut the box's top flaps into decorative, curved shapes, and she enjoyed playing with them.
• You may also prefer to cut off the flaps entirely so it's easier for you to store the box or for your cat to see and access the inside. Cutting off the flaps of an open-top puzzle may be especially helpful if your cat has physical limitations.

Closed-top

(photo 2, tape blurred to obscure logos)

Close the box and draw the holes you want to cut. These holes should, in combination with any holes on the sides, allow your cat to reach everywhere within the box with their paws. Unfold the top again and cut out the holes; I recommend a sharp box cutter, but scissors may also work. Fold the top back again and confirm that you don't need to keep cutting; in many places, holes will need to be cut again through a second, overlapping flap of the box.

Once your holes go all the way through the top flaps of the box, you can glue or tape your box shut.

Convertible-top

(photo 3)

By folding your box in an over-under-over-under pattern, you can close up your box's top while allowing you (but not your cat!) to open it up as desired. Convertible tops let you open up the top to teach a cat a new puzzle box or for clearing out any food, treats, or toys that your cat doesn't get out from the puzzle box. They also make it easier for you to add dividers or other obstacles to a box to make it more challenging. At the same time, once your cat gets the hang of the puzzle, you can close up the top temporarily to ensure the puzzle challenges them.

To make a convertible-top box, follow the same process as the closed-top box but use the over-under-over-under folding technique (shown in the pictures and in a linked YouTube video). Don't glue or tape the box shut. Once you're satisfied with the holes, just leave the box folded shut.

Before giving your cat the puzzle box, check that any glue is dry and that nothing could hurt your cat.

• If you used staples or any other sharp add-ons, make sure they are covered (e.g., by a layer of cardboard, by soft tape).
• Check that all dividers and obstacles are securely attached.
• Press your finger around the rim of all the holes you have cut and make sure they aren't too sharp. I have never had a box cutter create sharp edges on cardboard, but I wouldn't want your kitty to get hurt if you have a better box cutter! You can cover any sharp edges with toxin-free* electrical tape or similar as shown in CucumberCaterpillar's "Interactive Cat Toy" Instructable.

You should also look over the box and check that your cat can reach the whole interior space of the box from the various holes. Consider dividers and other obstacles, as well as the length of your cat's legs.

*Some tapes can have lead and other toxins.

Put treats or toys in the puzzle box and give the puzzle box to your cat to try. Always supervise your cat when they play with the puzzle box, especially when it's new.

Tips for introducing your cat to a puzzle box

• Put your cat's favorite toy or treat in the box so they are motivated to get it out. (photo 1) Most cats will be more motivated by food than by toys, but my cat prefers her favorite toys to treats.
• Put one toy or treat right by a hole in the box. If you have a side hole that's flush with the bottom of your box, this will be best because it's easiest for your cat. (photos 2 & 3)
• If your cat is completely disinterested in the box, take it out another time. I recommend giving your cat a puzzle box when they are most active. If your cat is repeatedly disinterested try a more valuable toy or treat.
• I don't recommend starting by feeding your cat a meal in the box. Not only might your cat get more frustrated easily when they are hungry, but you are also more likely to feel sorry for your cat and give them the food without them solving the puzzle. This will teach your cat to come to you for help instead of solving puzzle toys.
• If your cat doesn't try the puzzle box for more than a few minutes without seeking your help, then try "ignoring" them. Because you should not leave your cat unsupervised with a new toy, watch your cat through a mirror or out of the corner of your eye. You can try looking over the top of a book/magazine, watching TV with the puzzle box adjacent to the TV or even using the selfie mode on your phone's camera to spy on your cat behind you.
• If your cat struggles for more than a few minutes before getting frustrated, you may need an easier puzzle box. If the box has a convertible top, you can open that up. You can also try cutting more holes or making a new box.

General puzzle box tips

• To keep the puzzle toy novel and engaging, put the puzzle box away in a place that's out of your cat's reach and sight when it isn't "loaded" with toys, treats, or food.
• If you have more than one cat, the puzzle toy can become a valuable, disputed resource. Follow any practices that you use when feeding your cats, such as separating them into different rooms or by having more than one puzzle box like you would feed them from separate bowls.
• I recommend giving your cat a puzzle box when they are most active. My cat is most active in the evening, so I will often give her the puzzle box while I am making dinner or doing chores after work. Make sure that, if you are doing something else while your cat plays with the puzzle box, you are still able to supervise your cat adequately.
• Cat food or treats may soil your puzzle box over time. If it begins to smell or stain, make a new puzzle box.