Cardboard Adjustable Basketball Hoop

by Nate B in Craft > Cardboard

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Cardboard Adjustable Basketball Hoop

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If you want a basketball hoop for your young kids or even for you but do not want to buy one, this indestructible is the one for you. My actual build is top of the rim height 4 ft (1.22 m). 6.5 in.(16.51 cm) or so and adjusts to about 5 ft. (1.52 m) top rim height ,but you could easily make it adjust more or be taller for older kids or maybe even adults. It works quite well and is pretty stable, but it is probably not the best idea to do a full on dunk on it. Also, please feel free to add a comment, question, or tip, I would love to hear your feedback.

Special thanks to Emily Burgess: for helping me with the project.

Supplies

  • Materials:
  • Paper towel tube(1)
  • Packing tape(2)
  • Double-sided tape(3)
  • Approximately 19 in.(48.26 cm) by 14.5 in.(36.83 cm) by 3.5 in.(8.89 cm) cardboard box(dimensions important)(4)
  • Approximately 19 in.(48.26 cm) x 14 in.(35.56 cm) piece of cardboard(5)
  • Any decent sized box but I used an approximately 14 in.(35.56 cm) by 12.5 in.(31.75 cm) by 9.5 in.(24.13 cm)(6)
  • Again not an exact but I used an approximately 19 in.(48.26 cm) by 14.5 in.(36.83 cm) by 3.5 in.(8.89 cm)(7)
  • Tools:
  • Razor blade box cutter(8)
  • Tape measure/ ruler(9)
  • Scissors(10)
  • Red and black sharpie and pencil(if you don’t have these it’s OK)(11)
  • Hot glue gun(12)
  • Orange bag(for net of hoop so kinda optional)(13)
  • (numbers correspond with the numbers on the pictures)

Building the Post:

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First take your 19 in.(48.26 cm) by 14.5 in.(36.83 cm) by 3.5 in.(8.89 cm)box and deconstruct it (photo 1). Then cut one seam and lay it out on the ground(or whatever your work surface is)(photos 2 and 3). Next triangle up(then tape) and tape together each section except for one end section (you will see why in a bit)(photos 4, 5, and 6).

Making the Sliding Part(part 1):

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First cut of at the seam the flap that we did not tape or triangle up(photo 1). Next cut off an inch or so of each (long)side of the disconnected part(photos 2 and 3). Then try to make a crease 1 or so inches in(so that the two side are not even when they come together) and fold it over(its very hard, so it does not have to be perfectly straight(as you can see mine is definitely not))(photos 4, 5, 6, and 7). After that put it flat(ish) on your work surface so that there is an inch-1 1/2 inches peaking over one edge and cut it(as seen in photo 8). Finally, tape it up and make sure that it slides in and out of the main part of the post easily(photos 9).

Alternative: Instead of doing the whole crease thing like I did you could probably just cut another half inch of each side or so(then you would not have to do the creasing and cutting shown in photos 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8).

Building the Adjustment Stick:

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First take your paper towel tube and flatten it(photo 2). Then fold it over in half (hot dog style)and tape it up(photos 3, 4, and 5). Finally, cut that in half(or so)(photo 6).

Cutting the Notches in Main Post:

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First take your adjustment stick and trace it with a sharpie (photos 1 and 2). Then cut the cardboard using a box cutter razor blade(you might need to make it a bit bigger)(photos 3 and 4). Next test if the adjustment stick goes through good(photo 5). Finally, trace the adjustment stick on the other side, cut it, and test if it goes through good(photo 6).

Building the Sliding Part(part 2):

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First put the sliding part in the main post and trace the hole(photos 1 and 2). Next pull it out and cut it with the box cutter(photo 3). Then test if it goes in and out good with and without it in the main post(photos 4 and 5). Finally, repeat the process until you have the desired amount of adjustment holes(I did 3(photo 6)).

Building the Base:

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Get your decent sized box(cut the flaps off one side) (I used an approximately 14 in.(35.56 cm)) by 12.5 in.(31.75) by 9.5 in.(24.13 cm)and then set it down on your work surface a trace the post(photo 1). Then cut it with your box cutter(photo 2). Insert the post in and tape it real good on the bottom and the top(insert it far but not that much past the bottom of the box)(but you might want it almost peaking out of the bottom of the box a little) (photos 3 and 4). Finally and your second 19 in.(48.26 cm) by 14.5 in.(36.83 cm) by 3.5 in.(8.89 cm) box and put the post with the other box and tape them together(photos 5 and 6).

Backboard and Hoop:

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First cut your piece of cardboard to the desired size (this is your backboard(I used an approximately 19 in.(48.26 cm) by 14 in.(35.56))). Then get a long(1 1/2-2 ft ish(0.4572 m-0.6096 m ish)) piece of cardboard and decently wide(2-3 in.(5.08 cm-7.62 cm) and place it and tape it like shown in photo 1).then put some double-sided tape on the adjusting part and place the backboard on it(reinforce with packing tape)(photos 2 and 3). Next take an orange bag and carefully take the plastic off(photos 4 and 5). After that you can set the bag on the hoop and cut the bottom then hot glue it to the rim(photo 6). Finlay you can trace a shooter's square with a ruler, pencil for the first time, and red(or other color) sharpie to finish it off(photos 7, 8, and 9).

You're done!!!!!!!!!!!

Extra:

Use lots of tape and tape in a bunch of different directions for extra stability. You could also make this taller or shorter or even adjust farther if you got another box and stacked it on top to make the post longer or maybe made the adjusting part to sections instead of one. So it does not tip over you could add weights to the bottom box. You also can paint/spray paint it if you want a sleeker look.