Camping Light Rebuild

Hi everyone! In this Instructable, I’ve got a rather nostalgic project I’m excited to share with you. This old radio and clock light belonged to my parents and throughout the years, it served them well, but now it no longer works. As summer approaches, we’re gearing up for our annual camping trips, and I thought this old gadget could use a modern makeover.

The device was once a multifaceted tool featuring a big front light, a directional spotlight on top, and even a hazard blinker to mark vehicles. Initially, it was charged through the mains, and judging by its weight, it likely houses a heavy lead-acid battery that has given up the ghost. The all-in-one device included a radio, LCD clock, searchlight, fluorescent light, blinker, and alarm. My goal today is to revive this old gadget by replacing its outdated components with LEDs, adding a modern lithium battery, and improving its utility for our camping adventures.

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Tools and materials used in the video:

• P13 LED bulb - https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_mrGQC0a
• LED Strip - https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_opr5ENe
• 18650 Batteries - https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_opLA3xe
• 3S Battery Management System - https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_onAymtq
• 12.6V battery charger - https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_mrCSojY
• Soldering Rework Station - https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_m00zmaw
• Multimeter - https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_m0CIYDY
• Precision Screwdriver Set - https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_msma6OA
• Wire Snips - https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_omwVb18
• ESD Safe Tweezers - https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_ol7L3Ma
• Bench Power Supply - https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_on2Eiuc

To begin the process, the first step is to remove the front cover of the ambient light. There’s a latch located right at the front that, when turned, allows you to take off the cover and access the internal components. Once you’ve popped off the front panel, you can then carefully rotate and remove the old fluorescent lights. In my case, some of these lights were broken, so it was an extra incentive to replace them with something more efficient.

Next, you’ll notice several screws holding the device together. There are screws located on the bottom and also on the top. Using a screwdriver, remove all these screws. With the screws out, you can separate the different sections of the radio and clock light.

One thing to keep an eye out for is the wiring. Once the casing is removed, you’ll likely see a mess of wires. Specifically, you’ll need to desolder a few wires that connect to the battery holder for the clock battery and also the main 6-volt lead-acid battery. Carefully desolder these wires so you can completely release the back cover and access the internal components for replacement and upgrade.

With the device now open and accessible, we can move on to identifying which parts need to be replaced and start testing the existing components to see what still functions.

With the device disassembled, the next step is to test the existing components and identify what needs fixing or replacing. The first order of business is to check if the radio still works. To do this, I connect a 6-volt power supply to where the battery used to be. Thankfully, the radio springs to life, signaling that this part of the device is still operational. However, not everything is in perfect shape.

Upon examining the directional spotlight on top, it becomes clear that it used to rotate but is now glued in place with super glue. While this limits its functionality, it still works as a stationary spotlight.

Now that I have a clearer idea of what’s working and what’s not, it’s time to move on and replace the outdated lights with modern LEDs and a new lithium battery.

With the initial testing completed, we can now move on to replacing the outdated components with modern alternatives. The first major upgrade involves swapping out the old incandescent and fluorescent bulbs with LED lights. LEDs are not only more energy-efficient but also provide much better illumination.

Starting with the front spotlight, I unscrew the housing to access the old bulb. Once the bulb is removed, I replace it with an LED version, making sure to secure it properly in place. A quick test confirms that the new LED light is both bright and functional. Next, I tackle the hazard blinker. I take out the old bulb and fit in an LED replacement, crimping the connections tightly to ensure a good electrical connection. Another test run shows that the blinker is now working perfectly.

To replace the ambient fluorescent lights, I had to first reverse-engineer how they worked. I was able to identify the connection of the switch and I then glued a section of the string to the reflector used with the old lights. My initial plan was to use a step-up converter so that the 6V from the battery could be turned into 12V for the LED strips, but I gave up on the idea in favor of making the entire thing powered from 12V. The spotlight LEDs already supported 12V so I only needed to add a small step-down converter for the radio circuit so it can still work on 6V.

The final part involves addressing the power source. The old lead-acid battery is outdated and heavy, so I replaced it with a pack of three 18650 lithium-ion batteries configured in a series to provide around 12 volts. I used batteries wired in pairs from old laptop battery packs so that I can have a bigger capacity. This setup offers a higher energy density, is much lighter, and lasts longer between charges. Additionally, I added a Battery Management System (BMS) to ensure safe operation and balanced charging and discharging of the cells. I soldered the connections according to the BMS schematic and tested the voltage to ensure everything worked as expected.

All that remains now is to reassemble the device and conduct some final tests to ensure everything works seamlessly.

With all components upgraded and wired correctly, it's time to reassemble the device and perform final tests to ensure everything functions as intended. First, I carefully placed the new lithium battery pack where the old lead-acid battery used to be, using some cardboard padding to secure it in the compartment. After reattaching the battery connections, I close up the back cover and secure it with screws, making sure all wires are neatly tucked away to avoid any damage.

Next, I reattach the front cover and ensure the new LED lights fit perfectly in their housings. I use the existing screw holes to mount the new antenna securely in place, ensuring it has a solid connection for optimal radio reception. With the device now fully reassembled, I turn it on and systematically test each function.

To charge the battery, I added a DC power jack to the input terminals of the BMS and I placed it in the compartment where the power cable used to be stored. I'll use a dedicated 3S battery charger for it so it can be charged to the required 12.6V for the pack.

All components are now functioning, giving us a device that's ready for our upcoming camping trips. While the project presented its challenges, it is now a valuable addition to our camping gear. This revitalized radio and clock light is now not only a cherished piece of family history but also a fully functional tool that we’ll enjoy for years to come.