Camp Sink(...err Bucket Caddy)
by TheAngryInstaller in Outside > Camping
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Camp Sink(...err Bucket Caddy)
Basically it's just a caddy to turn your bucket or any tub into a sink/wash/rinse station. Made from bright orange Kydex. Orange to show any dirt or grime, Kydex because I can heat and mold it however I so choose. No screws or metal to avoid rust. the paper towel holder is a peice of 3/4" plastic yellow tube and a couple chunks of paracord. It is designed to work with my 12 Volt Pump shown here: https://www.instructables.com/id/Simple-12-Volt-Pum...
You can see in the pictures that the battery pack, bucket caddy and paper towels all fit in the bucket with room to spare for easy hauling.
Tools and Parts
Tools:
-Utility knife
-Straight edge/ruler
-Tin snips
-Hand drill
-Unibit (step bit)
-Dremel (rotary tool) w/sanding drum and cutting wheel.
-Heat Gun
-Thick gloves are nice because the Kydex will be heated to roughly 300° F
Parts:
-Bucket
-12"×12" Piece of Kydex (or other thermoform plastic)
-24" Paracord
-14" scrap plastic tube.
-Utility knife
-Straight edge/ruler
-Tin snips
-Hand drill
-Unibit (step bit)
-Dremel (rotary tool) w/sanding drum and cutting wheel.
-Heat Gun
-Thick gloves are nice because the Kydex will be heated to roughly 300° F
Parts:
-Bucket
-12"×12" Piece of Kydex (or other thermoform plastic)
-24" Paracord
-14" scrap plastic tube.
Initial Design and Cuts
I started by measuring the dish soap bottle and made a dummy block by stacking 2 pieces of 1/2" mdf and one piece of 3/4" mdf. This is used to create the basic design, and it is used during the heating and forming process.
-I used the block to draw the lines by basically tracing it, then flipping it right, left and down onto each respective side, then tracing those lines. These will be the bend points for the soap pocket. I also gave an extra 3/4" on the 3 sides, so the pocket will wrap onto the front.
-I didn't have a true plan for the top so I drew in some initial notches and went to cutting.
- I used a straight edge to and a utility knife to cut off the excess, with the score and break method.
-The tin snips were used for the remaining cuts. Tin snips cut through Kydex like scissors making life more enjoyable.
-All the edges, corners and the hanger cuts were shaped and sanded with the Dremel and sanding drum.
-I used the block to draw the lines by basically tracing it, then flipping it right, left and down onto each respective side, then tracing those lines. These will be the bend points for the soap pocket. I also gave an extra 3/4" on the 3 sides, so the pocket will wrap onto the front.
-I didn't have a true plan for the top so I drew in some initial notches and went to cutting.
- I used a straight edge to and a utility knife to cut off the excess, with the score and break method.
-The tin snips were used for the remaining cuts. Tin snips cut through Kydex like scissors making life more enjoyable.
-All the edges, corners and the hanger cuts were shaped and sanded with the Dremel and sanding drum.
Heat and Bend.
Use template tape to stick the dummy block in place and proceed to heat each side of the pocket one by one forming all the 90° angles.
The pictures are in order but skip a couple folds as they are really all the same.
Kydex considerations:
-Heat both sides of the Kydex evenly and always keep the heat gun moving to avoid scorching the plastic. (it will take some time for each joint to get hot enough so be patient, but keep checking how pliable it is to avoid the scorch)
-Try to heat only the area to be molded, seems simple but it's harder than you would think with a heat gun.
I use an extra block of wood and the table to keep the sides flat when forming the corners. In the pictures you see that once heated, you press and hold the block in place until the Kydex cools and the shape holds. This helps keep the angles a hard 90° and the surfaces flat.
This block of wood also helps by covering the already molded kydex, while you heat the next piece to be bent.
-There are LOADS of youtube videos relating to kydex forming, so check them out!
The pictures are in order but skip a couple folds as they are really all the same.
Kydex considerations:
-Heat both sides of the Kydex evenly and always keep the heat gun moving to avoid scorching the plastic. (it will take some time for each joint to get hot enough so be patient, but keep checking how pliable it is to avoid the scorch)
-Try to heat only the area to be molded, seems simple but it's harder than you would think with a heat gun.
I use an extra block of wood and the table to keep the sides flat when forming the corners. In the pictures you see that once heated, you press and hold the block in place until the Kydex cools and the shape holds. This helps keep the angles a hard 90° and the surfaces flat.
This block of wood also helps by covering the already molded kydex, while you heat the next piece to be bent.
-There are LOADS of youtube videos relating to kydex forming, so check them out!
Test Fit and Refine.
-I had planned to bend the Kydex over the edge and the notches where it hangs on the bucket were going to flip and be the hooks, but it sat on the bucket so perfect, I knew this was a better bet.
-So I drew some new hooks and rough cut them out.
- I wanted whatever hung on the hooks to be in the bucket for drips. It also needed more rigidity, so I used the dummy block again to add some more angles,I brought the sides to 90° and I gently eased the hooks at a 45° so the items hang clear of the soap in the middle.
-I then took the Dremel and sanding drum to it again, better forming the hooks and cleaning up any rough spots
-So I drew some new hooks and rough cut them out.
- I wanted whatever hung on the hooks to be in the bucket for drips. It also needed more rigidity, so I used the dummy block again to add some more angles,I brought the sides to 90° and I gently eased the hooks at a 45° so the items hang clear of the soap in the middle.
-I then took the Dremel and sanding drum to it again, better forming the hooks and cleaning up any rough spots
Paper Towel Holder
-Drilled a hole just big enough for paracord to slip through in each end of the tube.
-cut the paracord in 2 pieces about 12 inches and melted the ends.
-I then tied a knot on one end of each and slipped one through each hole on the tube.
-Tied knots on the other ends for attaching. They were a bit long so I tied another knot in the middle of each to take up slack.
- I used the dremel and cutting wheel to notch each side under the hooks. This allows me to unhook and put a new roll on very easily.
- Crossing the paracord across the caddy like in the picture made the whole thing much more stable with the weight of the paper towel.
-cut the paracord in 2 pieces about 12 inches and melted the ends.
-I then tied a knot on one end of each and slipped one through each hole on the tube.
-Tied knots on the other ends for attaching. They were a bit long so I tied another knot in the middle of each to take up slack.
- I used the dremel and cutting wheel to notch each side under the hooks. This allows me to unhook and put a new roll on very easily.
- Crossing the paracord across the caddy like in the picture made the whole thing much more stable with the weight of the paper towel.
Testing!
It does everything I need it too.