CALIFORNIA KING PLATFORM BED

by Kink Jarfold in Workshop > Furniture

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CALIFORNIA KING PLATFORM BED

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My daughter-in-law asked if I could make her and my son a California King bed frame with lots of storage. I said, "Sure,"

PLANS FOR a CALIFORNIA KING BED

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PLATFORM BED PLANS FROM STEVE RAMSEY'S WWMM

I've been a fan of Steve Ramsey for years. He makes things easy to follow. I downloaded his plans and followed them.

The plans list all materials along with a cut chart.

IMPORTANT: DOUBLE CHECK ALL YOUR MEASUREMENTS. WOOD THICKNESSES VARY. USE JIGS AND STOPS TO GET VERY ACCURATE CUTS AND SPACING. I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH.

TOOLS

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Here are the tools needed to complete this project.

Miter saw

Pocket hole jig and bits

Screw gun and various screws

Compressor and nail gun

Mallet

Orbital sander

Router Table

Clamps

Glue

Stain using rags and brushes

Polyurethane

I WORKED IN SECTIONS

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I worked in sections, doing the exterior frames for each box first. I cut the pieces to size.

I ASSEMBLED THE TWO BOX FRAMES

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Using my assembly table and pocket hole jig and lots of pocket screws I assembled the two box frames.

DRAWER RUNNERS AND GUIDES

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As I assembled the sections I made jigs to help align the runners and guides. I spent extra time studying the plans and labeling pieces. Where I didn't use pocket screws I used my brad nailer to hold boards in place while the glue set.

STAINING

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Once the two mirror image frames were completed I coated the wood with pre-stain then stained it. When that had thoroughly dried I gave it a coat of poly. Sanded when dry and added a second coat.

DRAWERS

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The plans for the drawer construction use 3/4" plywood. I used 1/2" plywood. I used 1/4" masonite for the drawer bottoms. I've used masonite before on other projects calling for a drawer bottom. It makes a really nice, smooth interior.

Here is where I ignored the cut guide and measured each piece myself. I assembled each drawer using glue and brads. I rabbeted the bottom of each drawer for the masonite to fit flush to the bottom. I double and triple checked for square.

I applied paste wax to both the bottom of the drawers and the guides they slide on. There are a total of 6 drawers.

DRAWER FACES

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The drawer faces in the plans called for ripping down 1 x 10s to 8". I didn't. I left them at 9 1/4. No knobs were used since they stick out too far and someone could hurt themselves. Instead, I routed a finger pull on the edges, even on the fixed drawer faces. I experimented with a round over bit for a finger pull and a cove bit, too. The one I settled on was a rabbet. Then I stained and polyed them, sanding up to 320 grit between coats.

THE PARTS

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Two box frames. Six drawers. There are actually spots for two more drawers where the end tables are at the head of the bed. I can always add these if they become necessary. I didn't make any dummy drawer faces for the back of the bed. This will be against the wall and not visible. Also, I might be building a headboard if my kids want it.

ATTACHING THE DRAWER FACES

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To ensure even spacing I made some spacers, held the drawer faces up to the spacers and secured with brads to hold the faces in place and screws to secure them. I set the drawers aside. You can see the false drawer faces on the box frames.

MATTRESS SUPPORT

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I made the mattress support from 1/2" plywood. Yes, I did cut another piece.

YOU GOT TO MOVE IT, MOVE IT...

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My son and daughter-in-law live twenty-five minutes away. We loaded the plywood and box sections into a borrowed truck. I loaded the drawers into my SUV. We all drove to their home. Then we carried the parts up three flights of stairs into their bedroom. I screwed the two frames together and we put on the mattress and slid in the drawers and it was done.

As usual, all comments appreciated and all questions answered. Thanks for taking the time to view this Instructable brought to you by The Little Shop of Jarfold.

Kink Jarfold