C-3PO Blinky Board

Hey guys and how you doing!

So this is the C3P0 PCB Badge or a Blinky Board which is based around 555 Timer IC.

Original C3PO was Built by Anakin Skywalker, C-3PO was designed as a protocol droid intended to assist in etiquette, customs, and translation, but this version doesn't do any of the original tasks, it just blinks.

I made this setup as a soldering challenge kit, We solder all the SMD components with a soldering iron and the end result will be a complete Bi-Flasher working circuit which is themed after our beloved C3PO.

Also, if you're interested in getting this kit for yourself, check out my Tindie page for more details.

In this Instructables, I'm gonna show you guys how you can solder this kit in a few easy steps along with a few soldering tips and tricks.

these are the stuff that I used in this built

• 555 Timer IC
• Coin Cell Holder
• SMD1206 LED x 2
• Custom PCB
• 10K Resistor 0805 Package x 4
• M7 Diode
• Switch
• 22uF 16V Capacitor
• CON2 Vertical header Pin
• Soldering equipment
• and patience

Before starting the soldering Process, Let first understand the working schematic of this C3PO Badge.

The main component here is the Mightly 555 timer ic which is set up in a Bi Flasher Mode. This means at the output Pin, two LEDs are connected in such a way that when a positive signal gets out of Pin 3 this will make LED 2 Glow and LED 1 will remain LOW, and when the positive signals don't get out of Pin 3 LED 2 will become LOW and LED1 will start glowing

Bi Flasher constantly turns Both LEDs ON and OFF by repetitive biasing of both LEDs through pin 3.
The flashing rate can be controlled by changing the value of the capacitor connected between Pin 2 and GND. right now I'm using a 22uf 16V capacitor but if we use a 10uf capacitor, the flash rate will increase.

I've used the same circuit in my previous Ghost badge Project which is also a soldering kit but a THT one, this version is an SMD soldering kit with almost all component SMD except for Switch, Cap, and CON2 Pin.

After finalizing the PCB and checking it one last time, I exported its Gerber data.

I used PCBWAY PCB Service for this project. I uploaded the Gerber file of this project on PCBWAY's quote page. For this C3PO badge, I went with yellow Soldermask and white silkscreen.

After placing the order, I received the PCBs in a week and the PCB quality was pretty great, This shape is completely random so it's pretty hard to make but they did an awesome job of making this PCB with no error whatsoever.
You guys can check out PCBWAY if you want Great PCB Service at an Affordable rate and low price.

After getting the PCBs, I started the assembly process which includes adding SMD components first and then adding THT Components.

We have to add timer ic and a few resistors on the backside first and then LEDs on the front side. Let's start with the backside first.

• First set up your soldering station with an Iron Tip Temp of 316°- 343°C.
• We start by adding solder to each component pad first, just on one side.
• Then we pick the component and place it in its place by heating the added solder.
• solder will melt and hold the component from one side, then we redo this process for all the components. the goal here is to temporarily hold the component from one side and later add more solder wire on the other side which will connect the components to the other pad and the soldering process will get completed.
• After placing each component, we use the solder wire to solder the other end of each component that hasn't been connected to the pad yet. this method of soldering SMD component is widely used and it's very easy to learn as well.
• for adding an SMD Coin Cell holder, the same method has to be used, we add solder to one pad, use that pad to hold the component in place, and then add solder to the other pad to hold the component in its place completely.
• now after soldering all the components on the bottom side, we start the LED soldering. Process for them is also the same, we add solder to one side first, we add the led through this side, and then do the same for the second led, then we add solder on the other side and LEDs will get connected with its pad perfectly.
• just make sure to connect LEDs in the right polarity, also because the LED outer body is made from plastic, avid heating the pads of LEDs for a very long interval, be quick while soldering or the led outer body will melt and it will get destroyed. These LEDs are made for the Reflow process, not the soldering iron process so it's better to not heat the plastic part for too long.
• Now we add the remaining THT components which are Switch and Capacitor.
• the switch will go into its THT Pad and the capacitor will be placed in its pad. be sure to check the polarity of the capacitor before placing it.at last, I added a vertical con2 pin to this badge which will let us connect this badge with external power via a breadboard.

This was the soldering process and the badge is completed.

For powering this badge, we have to add a CP2032 Lithium Coin cell in its holder and turn on the switch. Both LEDs will start flickering in a chasing sequence, the first led will glow and the second will stay low, then the second led will turn HIGH and the first led will turn LOW, and this process will get repeated over and over.

This setup works exactly like my previous ghost badge project, in the ghost badge same circuit has been used but it contains a through-hole version.
Check out Ghost Badge if you're interested in the THT Soldering,

This is it for today folks, Leave a comment if you need any help.

Peace out and have a nice day! Bye-bye