Building the Tools to Make the First Tools: DIY Flint Knapping Tools
by MichaelB1344 in Workshop > Tools
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Building the Tools to Make the First Tools: DIY Flint Knapping Tools


Ever wanted to channel your inner caveman but got stuck at the “where do I even start?” part? If flint knapping has ever sparked your curiosity, this Instructable is your gateway to the craft—no mammoth hunting required. We’re going back to basics and building three essential tools: a pressure flaker, a billet or bopper, and a hand pad. These are the unsung heroes of stone shaping, and the best part? You can make them with everyday materials, no fancy kits or museum-grade artifacts needed.
Think of this as your DIY time machine. 40,000 years ago, our ancestors grabbed a rock and made magic—tools for survival, art, and innovation. Today, we’re doing the same, just with a few more creature comforts (and maybe a cup of coffee). This guide won’t teach you how to knap like a pro, but it will equip you with the tools to start that journey. Simple, effective, and surprisingly satisfying—because sometimes, the best solutions are the ones carved from stone.
Let’s get cracking.
Supplies




You don’t need a shopping spree to get started—just a little creativity and a willingness to use what’s on hand. Here’s what you’ll need (and some clever alternatives):
• 1-inch oak dowel rod
• Or: A sturdy limb from a downed tree, a broken broom handle, or any dense hardwood scrap. Oak is great, but your ancestors didn’t have Home Depot.
• Heavy copper nail or copper rod (for the pressure flaker)
Copper is used in flint knapping because of its unique balance of softness and strength
allows it to grip and precisely flake stone without shattering it or dulling too quickly.
• Or: Flatten and shape a chunk of old copper pipe, a plumbing fitting, or even a thick wire terminal. Copper is ideal because it’s soft enough to bite the stone but tough enough to do the job.
• Copper pipe cap + lead (for the billet)
• Or: Any snug-fitting metal cap and dense filler. I’ve used old fishing weights, tire weights (yes, the kind you find near curbs), and even melted-down scrap metal.
⚠️ Safety First: When working with lead, always use gloves, a respirator, and good ventilation. Your lungs are not part of the tool kit.
• Drill with a bit slightly smaller than your copper nail
• Or: A hand drill, awl, or even a heated nail if you’re feeling primitive.
• Saw to cut the dowel
• Or: A hacksaw, pruning saw, or your neighbor’s borrowed tool (with permission, of course).
• Vice or clamps to secure your work
• Or: A sturdy log, a pair of knees, or a friend with steady hands.
• Heat source for melting lead
• Or: A propane torch, camp stove, or hot plate. Just be safe and smart—no open flames near flammable materials.
• Hand pad material
• Options: Scrap leather, old tire rubber, shoe soles, or a DIY sandwich of wood, foam, and leather. If it cushions and grips, it works.
Bottom line: Use what you’ve got. This isn’t about perfection—it’s about practicality. Your ancestors made tools with rocks and bones. You’ve got a garage. You’re already ahead.
The Pressure Flaker



The pressure flaker is a simple but powerful tool for refining the edges of your stone.
- Cut the Dowel: Begin by cutting the 1-inch oak dowel rod to a comfortable length. A good starting point is about 8 to 12 inches, but you can adjust this to fit your grip.
- Drill the Pilot Hole: Secure the dowel in a vice. Using your drill, create a pilot hole a few inches from one end of the dowel. The depth of the hole should be a bit shorter than the length of the copper nail's exposed portion. The diameter of the drill bit should be slightly smaller than the nail, ensuring a tight fit.
- Insert the Copper Tip: Use a hammer to carefully tap the head of the copper nail into the drilled hole. The tight fit will hold it securely without the need for glue. Leave a small portion of the nail's tip exposed (about a quarter-inch) to make contact with the stone.
- Refine the Handle: You can sand or shape the dowel handle for a more comfortable grip, although this is optional.
Build a Bopper








The traditional way to start flint knapping is with a good hammer stone, often found on a rocky shoreline. However, living in Florida, I don't have easy access to that kind of material. So, I decided to take a modern approach and build my own striking tool, known as a bopper.
The billet, or bopper, is used for striking and removing large flakes of stone. The lead-filled copper cap gives it a solid, weighty feel.
1. Cut the Dowel
Cut your oak dowel to 12–18 inches. Test-fit the copper cap on one end. If it’s tight, gently tap it on with a hammer.
2. Shape the Cap (Optional)
Most caps are flat. I rounded mine using a bolt and a wood block to make it better for striking.
3. Prepare and Melt the Lead
Place lead in a metal can or crucible. Melt it using a torch or hot plate.
⚠️ Safety First: Wear gloves, safety glasses, and work in a well-ventilated area.
4. Pour the Lead
With the cap already on the dowel and held upright, carefully pour the molten lead into the cap. Let it cool completely.
5. Secure the Cap
Once cooled, remove the cap, apply epoxy, and reattach it firmly to the dowel.
6. Add Grip (Optional)
I coated mine with Flex-seal for better handling, but it’s not required.
7. Avoid Sharp Surprises
I tried adding a pressure flaker to the back end—bad idea. The exposed point was unsafe. Instead, I used Tinkercad to 3D print a protective cap to cover it.
This BIG Bopper here:https://www.tinkercad.com/things/bLqnvqD9QWz-big-bopper-handle
The Bopper Caps here: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/aGYvxGEDy0B-bopper-cap
Making a Hand Pad



The hand pad protects your palm from sharp flakes and provides a stable surface for pressure flaking. This is a simple but important tool for both safety and comfort.
- Option 1: Simple Leather or Rubber Pad: The easiest method is to take a thick piece of scrap leather or a section from an old car tire or shoe sole. Cut it to a palm-sized shape (about 4 x 6 inches) and fold it over a few times. You can also layer several pieces of leather for extra thickness and protection.
- Option 2: Reinforced Wood Pad: For a more rigid and durable pad, cut a small piece of wood, roughly 4 x 2 inches. Glue a piece of foam padding to one side for comfort and shock absorption. Then, cover the foam with a thick piece of leather or rubber, securing it to the wood with glue or small tacks. This provides a very stable platform for delicate work.
Get to Knapping!!


Books and Resources for Flint Knapping
Now that you have your tools, you're ready to learn the craft. Here are a few recommended books and resources to get you started:
- "The Art of Flint Knapping" by D. C. Waldorf: A classic and comprehensive guide to the techniques, materials, and history of flint knapping. It's often considered the bible of the craft.
- "Flintknapping: The Art of Making Stone Tools" by John C. Whittaker: A great resource that provides clear, step-by-step instructions and illustrations for beginners.
- "The Stone Knapping Handbook" by B. B. Lammers: This book focuses on practical applications and offers a straightforward approach to learning the fundamentals.
- This was breaking down some Obsidian in Glass Buttes, Oregon. This video shows both a hammer stone in use and the Boppers.
Happy crafting, and we hope this Instructable inspires you to create not only tools but also new skills.